• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.41-52
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• 2022

Since the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991, the Russian public has been rapidly adapting to belated globalization, consistent with the ever-changing market economy. The purpose of this study was to investigate the social background and modern fashion of Russia after the collapse of the Soviet system and consider the characteristics of modern Russian fashion that have emerged in various ways amid the social changes. This study has significance in expanding the breadth of understanding the rapidly growing modern Russian fashion by considering modern Russian fashion and preparing the foundation while filling the need for research on the Russian fashion market, which has great potential. In the scope of the study, we investigated fashion from the post-2000s, when consumption began in earnest after Russia suffered a period of social and economic turmoil and switched to a liberalistic economy in 1991, to the present. In addition, we conducted an analysis focusing on the works of fashion designers who came from Russia and actively participated in work activities in Russia or abroad. Russian fashion designers reflect the unique cultural characteristics of Russia in their designs and incorporate Russian art into their designs to represent new fashion. Through continuous attempts for creative fashion design, modern Russian fashion will be developed in more diverse ways in the future. Thus, a follow-up study using various approaches to Russian fashion is needed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.53-71
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to determine the fashion images implied in men's fashion trends and systematize the characteristics of the textile materials used for fashion images, by analyzing men's fashion trends published by Korean fashion information service companies. This study would be meaningful if it can suggest some objective criteria for the characteristics of textile per fashion image. The researcher analyzed the data on the basis of 8 fashion images, which were ethnic, modern, traditional, avant-garde, active, romantic, natural, techno ones. Above men's fashion images were choosed by analyze the some literatures and men's fashion trend information. The data used for this study were information about S/S and F/W men's fashion trends published by Interfashion planning, Samsung fashion Research Center for the period of 1995-2000. The data collected were subject to “content analysis method”. As a result of the analysis, the major images of 1995-2000 were natural, active, traditional, modern, ethnic, avant-garde, techno images, and while such combinations of conflicting images as ethnic/modern, traditional/avant-garde, natural/techno. Other mixed images were ethnic/natural, modern/active, tradional/active, traditional/modern, romantic/modern, ethnic/romantic, traditional/natural, modern/natural, active/natural, active/traditional/natural, etc. The various characteristics of eight men's fashion images were found in color, pattern and textile materials.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.113-123
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is firstly to have the grasp of the tendency of animality represented in modern fashion. The second purpose is to analyze the form modeling of animality represented in modern fashion and the third one is to examine into an aesthetic character of animality represented in modern fashion. The method we adopt for this study is to analyze the designers' work which shows the fashion animality. The result of this study is follows. The tendency of animality represented in modern fashion presented in a printed form which patterned the animals' cuticle, a shape of animals, a symbolic image, and a future suggestive expression. The form modeling of animality is a reality and the aesthetic character is the vigorous beauty and the gorgeousness of original colors. So, animality represented in modern fashion is to offer the various ideas as well as to lead the curiosity about the fashion in the future and the coexistence into the fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.151-156
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• 2007

Slashes, deprived from the Crusaders' military uniforms, take their places among the fashion terms in modern fashion, and they are represented with some techniques such as fraying fabrics or making holes. Slashes are also used in various ways across all the fashion areas including clothing to accessaries. Slashes, which were once used to represent a solid body and to make a body move suitably, are used not only to express the formative of clothing but also to allow wearing sensations and functionality to wearers depending on their daily lives and the movements of their activities in modern fashion design. Optical illusions of fashion, image variabilities, functionality and ornamentation, and design principles, which were once represented with materials, colors, and details mainly used in fashion designs, are represented using slashes in modern fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.42-53
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to clarify how modern fashion show makeup reflects surrealism: it also proposes fashion show make-up expressed by focusing on objects. This study aims to research make-up characterized by surrealistic object expression, which is frequently used in the 21st century modern fashion shows, and reviews the concept of the objects positioned importantly in the history of modern makeup. In this study, the influence of the object over modern makeup, particularly fashion show makeup is reviewed together with the characteristics of the object. As a result of reviewing the concepts of modern fashion show makeup by applying objects, the conclusions that are gained are as follows. Fashion show makeup expressed in today's modern time tends to emphasize the artists' unique expressions and personality, while many artists attempt to use various expression ideas and techniques. Objects are variously expressed in makeup and in the $21^{st}$ century, this is the due to the development of digital technology and expansion of designers' imagination Furthermore, surrealistic makeup achieves eminence in styling by showing the formative limits of human beings. The types of surrealistic techniques are expressed as transposition, distortion, and optical illusion in makeup. Expansion of material became the momentum in order to provide unique ideas in fashion show makeup. Moreover, the object of surrealism has a considerable influence on the development of makeup. In this regard, more positive attempts for new designs are being expected.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.106-120
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• 2006

Using aesthetics of Rosencranz as the basis, this study contains the peculiarities of 'ugliness' and the obscured conceptual meaning of 'avant-garde', 'grotesque', and 'decadence' that are being utilized under ambiguous significance are defined through modern fashion and fashion of online game characters. Forms of 'ugliness' expressed in modern fashion and in games characters display distortion of form through incongruity, unbalance, disproportion and disharmony, and with this lack of form and expressional imprecision, both contain the elements of comical characteristics of vulgarity and repugnance. The difference in 'ugliness' between modern fashion and game character fashion is, the significance of 'ugliness' being expressed in modern fashion challenges new concepts by refusing tradition and recovering the human nature that has become turbid. On the other hand, 'ugliness' in game character fashion complements the story of the game that uses legends, fantasies or novels as its basis. Opposed to the significance of recovering human nature that is displayed in modern fashion, in order to terminate the opposing game character, the fashion of game characters exaggerates the form of modern fashion with added brutality. In addition, with the advantage of virtual reality that allows a more flexible expression than in the real word, images created are more sensational and excessive use of grotesque images are being expressed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.1-14
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• 2009

This study was aimed to make clear fashion is an expression art displaying not only functional or commercial aspects, but creative functions as an artistic work by analyzing Art Mode and its values, and to help develop more creative design by combining fashion with art. In terms of method, relevant documents, precedent studies, and the works announced in domestic and foreign fashion collections, such as Vogue, Fashion News, Gap, and Collections from 2000 to 2009. According to the findings, artistic works were used by the Art Mode in modern fashion. The respect of artists was expressed using historic famous painting works or current works in various fields, designers' individuality was shown by directly applying work messages to clothes, and fashion design was converted into a tool to communicate the messages like artistic works. Second, the various styles, using the formative character of modern art styles from animalism to modern abstractism, showed the creativity of design, transformed art into the art that enables to see the image of modern art, and presented the possibility of developing into a newer creative design through the application of numerous art styles and the transformation of ideas. Third, the collaboration with artists was used. Fashion designers or fashion brands tried to change the images of works or brands in partnership with artists or to increase differentiated images. The future direction of fashion is a pursuit of new form and content to express fashion, not simply to use artistic works. It is expected that such pursuit will lead to more creative and artistic fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.104-118
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the recent various developments of men's fashion by analyzing how exotic tastes were presented in men's modern fashion from 2001 to 2010. For this purpose, a researcher reviewed relevant studies to identify the styles of exotic tastes that were reflected in men's modern fashion specifically in Chinese, Japanese, Indian, East Asian, American, North American and South American styles. Findings of this study is summarized as follows. Main examples of men's modern fashion were found in Chinese-style apparel such as the magwae, queue, coolie hat and the Mao jacket. The Kimono and the samurai robe, both of which best represent Japanese apparel and the Japanese traditional patterns also had an influence on men's modern fashion Indian style clothing such as dhoti, veshti and lungi which cover the lower body, vajani as loose trousers, kurta of full-over tunic form and turban also had an effect as well. The men's modern fashion is also impacted by Middle Asian styles that includes the thobe, sirwaal, futah, which is sort of a skirt that is long enough to cover the calf and whose front parts overlap each other, turbans and the hempen hood which is fixed with the agal. Exotic elements such as animal skins, body painting, tattoos and head dresses found in African styles can also be found in men's modern fashion. Parts of North American style influence come from the applications of Indians' costume and head dress. The surveyed men's modern fashion of the South America style was represented by the applications of natives' costume and Andean tunic, loincloth and shawl. In all of the exotic styles found in men's modern fashion, historicity, eclecticism, aestheticism and nature-orientation are implied. They are the source of inspirations that promote changes and diversity in men's modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.112-126
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of 'movement' expression in modern fashion(1910-2004) based on a study of modern fine arts which adopted 'movement' element in their work. In this study the meaning of movement was defined as motion, changing position and transformation. Literature survey through books and research papers and demonstrative study with fashion collection photos were undertaken. The results wert as follows ; 1) Kinetic art, optical an, light kinetic art and technology art such as video and computer art have adopted 'movement' element in their work. 2) The plasticities of 'movement' fine arts were identified as mutual penetration, increase of visibility, use of non-traditional materials and dynamism. The internal meanings were identified as expansion of aesthetic experience and the concept of fine art, optimistic attitude on technology, spectator participation and integration of art and life. 3) The 'movement' expression in modern fashion was distinctively found in 1910s-20s(avant-garde fashion), 1960s (kinetic and optical art fashion) and mid 1990s to 2004 (techno-cyber fashion). 4) The plasticities of the 'movement' expression in modern fashion were identified as non-definition, use of non-traditional materials, dynamism. The internal meanings were identified as expansion of aesthetic experience and the concept of dress, optimistic attitude on technology, playfulness through participation. In conclusion, the expression of 'movement' in modern fashion has optimistic viewpoint on the development of modern society and is one of the interesting design points which will be pursued in the fellowing years.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.46
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• pp.49-66
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• 1999

The bisexuality deconstructivity and diversity that are great characteristics on the comtemporary fashion are showed in the fashion collections. The purpose of this paper is to investigate and analyze the influence of these characteristics made by the post modern-feminism fashion through the cultural pattern analysis. The post modern-feminism was analyzed by dividing the cultural pattern into 1) the deconstructivity of androcentrism -This characteristic was presented in the costume design that breaks the basic from of the line color and quality of the material showing in men's clothes. 2) By rejecting main current fashion -Subculture style appeared in main current fashion the boundary of main and anti-main current fashion was vagued and the phenomena that the identity of subgroup was weakened were showed. 3) In the coexistence of double-sided value -This characteristic was presented in the cross-dressing fashion that cut away women's slender part and men's rough part. 4) In the open-minded thought of gender -This tendency was reached an extreme from excessive exposure to design which gives the sexual stimulus. This paper is expected to be helpful to understand the contemporary fashion by treating the cultural category associated with post-modern feminism in relation to contemporary fashion and to establish the direction of 21 century fashion.