• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

This study is aimed at reviewing how the Orientalism trend is expressed in the modem fashion in terms of silhouette, color, materials, and detail. To this end, the geographic scope of this study is limited to China, Japan, Korea, while data are collected from fashion collections, domestic and foreign magazines since 2000's, literature, and internet sites. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. Silhouette: the basic square silhouette of the Oriental traditional costume do not disturb the body movement and have an effected on design to smoothly follow the body line rather than cutting out materials into several parts or emphasize the curved body. 2. Color: due to the influence of the Oriental Zen thought, color trend seems to pursue simplicity rather than complexity, and natural aesthetics. In addition, the Oriental colorfulness shall not be ignored. 3. Materials: golden embroidered material, polished satin, jersey, tough or rough materials, etc. have used with materials of the Oriental traditional costume came into fashion. In pattern, the Orientalism trend is expressive of pattern by Chinese ink-spread technique, simple brush touch technique, cloud pattern, lotus flower pattern or dragon pattern, all of which feature the Oriental calm aesthetics or those motivated by the Oriental traditional patterns. 4. Detail: the techniques of handicrafts and manual arts such as meticulous embroidery, tassel or patchwork reflect well the Orientalism trend in the modem fashion.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1063-1071
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• 2006

Fetishism, which has been a taboo for a long time, is stimulating the modem people's emotions by being reborn as a fashion trend by a number of designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and Claud Montana. Especially, Jean Paul Gaultier, called the bad boy of the fashion industry, is leading the Paris fashion world by expressing his unique fetish elements with his fantastic and uncommon ideas-males' wearing of skirts, wearing underwear like outer garments. Therefore, this study is aimed at investigating how his fetishism is shown in his works, understanding his fetish fashion world in the modem fashion and offering a new stepping-stone for fashion designers to actively participate in new fashion areas. Its results are as follows. First, it was found that the sensual designer Jean Paul Gaultier has been expressing his unique fetish elements in his collections like the following three styles of fetishism-fetishism by physical emphases, fetishism by items, fetishism by material. Second, the symbols of voluptuous beauty reflecting his own fetishism could be found in his movie costumes, license areas and given plots. Third, the work describing Jean Paul Gaultier's fetishism as a fetish image with the concept of Fantasy of Missing was evaluated as a successful work to express an internal sexual desire.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.155-167
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• 2009

This study reviewed the basic principle of "Maximalism" fashion and analyzed the properties of fashion types with found the frequencies of various styles and design factors of "Maximalism" fashion in collection. The limits of this study is from 2001, s/s, maximalism was embossed in a modem fashion, to 2007, f/w, and collected the fashion collection pictures from www.samsungdesign.net and www.style.com. The results of this study are as follows. First, the most frequent style of "Maximalism" design showed in International fashion collection was "exaggerated style." Second, the design factors of "Maximalism" fashion were also examined. In case of silhouette, "hourglass silhouette" was the most frequent silhouette. In case of pattern, "solid" color was the most frequently used. In case of materials, the soft materials were the most frequently used. Third, the frequencies of design factors of maximalism by presentation types was compared and analyzed. In case of expansion, "bulk silhouette" was the most frequent silhouette to be appeared, and about multi-ethnic, futurelism, and elegance, "hourglass silhouette" was frequent appeared. In case of pattern, "solid" color was the most frequently used in all types. In case of materials, the hard materials were the most frequently used in expansion, multi-ethnic and futurelism. "Maximalism" fashion which is most splendid trend would grow up rapidly in the modem fashion market and influence on the other fashion trend in our every day life. Consequently, this research can be referred as practical information in fashion marketing and it will contribute to the future fashion research as well.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1057-1067
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• 2005

In the modem society, people try to represent and protect their traditional arts in aesthetic way along with the global society. The proposal of this thesis is about the fashion illustration that has adopted the folklike formative arts. 1 prefer the formative character rather then the universal character and I would like to use of folk paintings far the fashion illustration. Because the formative character of folk paintings is very expressional, we are able to draw a fashion illustration in easy, new, creative and less difficult way. The fashion illustration has to be a specialized field from the formative arts, and we need to study in a new way as well. We draw fashion illustration through the understanding of folk paintings and the study of analysis in formative. As a result of this study, we could draw a fashion illustration which is very abstract, exaggerative and simple. We also could expect the free hand drawing lines on this illustration. In these fashion illustrations, the human bodies let us fret the artists' tense, speed, and power. According to the important character of folk painting, which is the beauty of color, these fashion illustrations have expressed more color intensive. In the falk paintings there is a kind of rules to make color order, so the fashion illustrations that we drew have the bright and clear color combination. Because the folk paintings shouldn't be the artistic but should be the realistic, the fashion illustrations concentrate on the real subject. It is very natural looking that use the natural dyes in the fashion illustrations. According to this kind of art task, fashion illustration will be a certain part of the illustration in the modem society.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.8
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• pp.167-182
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to observe the meaning of Minimalism and the characteristics in modem fashion design. The Minimalism appeared in 1960's has affect on fashion design which are simple miniskirt or Courrage look of those days. It leads a fashion system to the simple style goes with the life style of modem persons although the characteristics are somewhat different the styles in 1960's with those of 1990's. Minimal style is not just simple style but abbriviate expression constrained at the minimum. The styles appeared to be an undecorated simple line which are a sleeveless onepiece, a simple suit with no pocket and no collar and narrow shoulder. Colors are monochrome coordination and pursue a simplicity which is monotone variation. Patterns also appeared to be a geometric or abstract pattern for example check and stripe, which intend to minimum expression. Matirials are hightech glossy coating textures which have a futuristic image. In conclusion, the Minimalism in 1990's appeared to be a post-minimalism associated with postmodernism and a hightech-minimal under the technology development.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.463-474
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• 2000

The purposes of this study is to investigate the characteristics of historicism in modern fashion and to introduce the appropriate approaching and application method of costume history. As one of the characteristic of Post modernism, historicism is an important theme in modern fashion. In this study, the background and the characteristic of Post modernism is considered and the historicism in the Post modern architecture and literature is studied. Next, through the artworks of Vivienne Westwood and Christian Lacroix who are excellent in the modernization of historical costume, the historicism in modern fashion is studied. The characteristic of historicism in Post modem architecture and literature comes from the nostalgia, aspiration for the past, and recurrence to the nature. It is not the revival of the past but the crossover of the past and the present. The characteristics of historicism in modern fashion are as follows. ·form; style, silhouette, and items that are shown in the historical costume come with the mixture of modem textile, new technique, and modem design. ·Materials and patterns; classical and romantic patterns, the artwork of the artist, and the fabric which is remake of remains are used. ·Technique; Tailoring techniques and the pattern making of the historical costume are used. ·Trimmings and etc.; Lots of handworks, trimmings and accessaries in that are inspired from the past are used. These elements are not come from a certain place and time but mixed surpassing places and times. With that, not only the form and the position of wearing but the meaning and purpose of wearing are changed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.777-787
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to consider various characteristics in the graffiti-look in the modem fashion by interpreting meanings and properties of graffiti, transferred from street art to a new main stream in art. The scope of this study is limited to works from the 1990s to the present, and the materials for the literatures and exploratory study are fashion-related portfolios and the domestic and foreign fashion magazines. The first characteristic is satire. The graffiti-look conveys directly or indirectly with phrase or symbol various messages of politics, social ideology, wealth and poverty, environmental pollution, anti-war, etc. Body is even more used for graffitiand designers express freely their identity or ideology through the formative style of graffiti. The second characteristic is pleasure. Fantastic expressions from a fairy-tale or fable in the graffiti-look give humor meaning freedom and sense of liberation in a sense of catharsis to the modem people's emotion. The graffiti-look uses graffiti works to introduce its original message of humanism, happiness, humor, etc. to clothing; as a result, the graffiti-look features pleasure. The third characteristic iscommercial application. Brand logo designed by graffiti style is decorated with clothing, accessory, or ornament. This may not only emphasize brand name through lingual function of graffiti, but also be used for a distinctive marketing strategy against other brands. Logo which is regarded motive or pattern of design leaves a image instead of a meaning and performs a design function stressing formative sense.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.880-896
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• 2004

Trompe l'Oeil technique strategically conceived with a view to effectively realize creative ideas among the expression techniques of fine arts style has provided the driving force in development of fine arts and has continuously influenced development of the modem fashion pursuing unique individuality. The study is focused first on finding out how Trompe l'Oeil technique originated in connection with researching the fashion of Trompe l'Oeil and on analysing the technique of expression. The author referred to fashion magazines for designing ideas of Trompe l'Oeil represented in modem fashion in practical applications used by designers in Paris, Italy, London and New York during the 10 year period(1990-1999). The collections of data were analyzed as following: Effectiveness depending on the method of Trompe l'Oeil I. Effectiveness of Layering: when two clothing are over lapped or coordinated with one another in color or style. 2. Effectiveness of Detailing: when pictures, stitch, tape, cutting, quilting and etc are used to create collar, pocket, yoke, zipper, string, shadow and etc. 3. Effectiveness of Accessories: when the image of necklace, belt, tie, tassel, badges and stars are represented by illustration or embroidery on clothing to substitute the actual existence. 4. Effectiveness of Nudity: when human body is realistically drawn and printed on clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.1430-1440
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• 2009

This study is on the abstract expressionist techniques among the art activities variously expressed in modern fashion. Its significance lies in making fashion artistic through the combination of fashion and art in contributing to the development of creative fashion culture. In terms of method, documents are used to characterize the concept of abstract expressionism, the works of representative artists, and the panting techniques in relation to modem art based on existing literature. Fashion-related anthology, domestic, and foreign fashion magazines were used to analyze the abstract expressionism applied to modern fashion since 2000. According to the findings, the abstract expressionism applied to modern fashion showed artistic expressions with the abstract beauty by chance, using only the images or techniques similar to those in abstract expressionism. Expressionist works had abstract and dynamic images, as they were given a third dimension through the process of being worn on the human body. Second, details or decorative factors were excluded to ensure the maximum space for expression, modem images were displayed using the simple forms such as silhouettes (spacious or dense) and the beauty of harmony was shown that had beauty emphasized by the expression effects of textile design, the division of space, and the composition of colors. Third, the action painting techniques in modern fashion were used for textile designs printed on the surface of clothes, and the dynamic character of the design was shown by the duplication and juxtaposition of stains created by chance. The color field abstract techniques were shown through printing, texture, and dying, in addition the intense and pure abstract images were displayed by treating clothes like large screens.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.53-61
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• 2011

This study examines the prati fashion style. prati fashion refers to a practical fashion, the most sought-after trend and newest fashion concept. This trend emerged as a response to the trio of minimalism, the recent economic downturn and the modern life style, and has led to powerful fashion lines and items. Therefore, this study is to understand and analyze the prati fashion style, with its focus on the 2010 modern fashion collection that embodied functional, economic, and minimal styles. First, the functional style realized by new materials provides comfort and allows multi-style changes. Second, the minimal style adds detailed changes to minimal silhouettes. Finally the economic style means easy to wear and easy to match items at affordable prices. The analyses stated above found that the prati fashion brought about a new paradigm to society, and influenced social, cultural and economic aspects of our daily life. It also helped find solutions to economic problems of this era. Drawing global attention, the prati fashion has functional, design and economic values, and thereby influences the shift of market paradigm.