• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.10
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• pp.1581-1595
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• 2010

This paper investigates the regional characteristics of street fashion in China. Yanji, Beijing, Shanghai were chosen as three different cities in terms of location, weather, population, and industrial structure. A total of 592 pictures were collected through an internet and fashion magazine search for street fashion in Beijing and Shanghai in addition photos were taken for those in Yanji. Pictures of each city were classified into groups based on overall images covering top, bottom, and accessories to identify the characteristics of style in each group. The classification process included 2 stages. In the first stage, it produced 2 groups: formal and casual. The second stage divided formal into business formal and retro formal; casual was divided into II sub-groups that were easy, sporty, feminine, sexy, ethnic, girlish, nippon, trendy, bulky, military, and mixed. Easy casual showed the highest frequency for 3 cities and military style showed the lowest. Shanghai showed higher frequency in sporty, trendy, and military style than other cities. Each style exposed the similarities and differences in the cities that reflected different regional characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.456-464
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• 2016

A new combat uniform is improved for added combat safety with various functions such as survivability, battle conformity and a camouflage performance system. Camouflage performance is an important factor in terms of combat survivability since it makes identification difficult and provide security. The combat uniform is worn under extreme conditions (exposure to ultraviolet light, sweat and friction) and an excellent color fastness to repeated washing is required. In this study, we investigated the color management, durability and discoloration of new combat uniform fabric with a digital pattern for camouflage performance to provide preliminary color management data. We examined color differences between standard fabric and mass-produced combat uniform fabrics, color differences between each military supply contract firm and color changes in combat uniforms after 60 washing cycles. The slight color differences between standard fabric and mass-produced combat uniform fabrics were tolerable under quality criteria of Republic of Korea Ministry of National Defense. However, the differences between the military supply contract firms were recognizable to the naked eye and increased with repeated washing. Continuous research on color fastness under repeated washing and color management is required to standardize reliability from each military supply contract firm for the daytime performance of a combat uniform's camouflage.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.3 no.1 s.3
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• pp.23-30
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• 1994

This thesis researched for the conservation of a suit of armor that General Jung, Choong Sin had been worn in the 17th century, and of military uniform that was in perfect condition even though it had been underground for over 300years since 1676. As the armor was made with silk and cotton, it was treated by the dry cleaning method and the mild charge system. In the dry cleaning method, the used solvents were n-hexane and n-decane. And the percentage of the dry soap was 2 in the mild charge system. As the military uniform was made with only silk, it was treated by the dry cleaning method through the solvent of n-hexane and n-decane. Armor was repaired by scoured hemp partially, but military uniform became too deteriorated seriously to repair.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.102-117
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• 2008

This study shows the badge system for military officials of Joseon dynasty. The badge system for military officials of the 15th century consists of rank badges with tiger and leopard for the first and second ranks and rank badges with bear for the third rank. According to the code of laws, military officials are supposed to wear the rank badges with four different kinds of animals in Joseon dynasty. However, the badge system shown in the code of laws sometimes does not match with the badges in practices. Based on the literature, remaining badges and the badges in portraits, six different kinds of badges with animals are found : First, rank badges with tiger and leopard were used until the late 16th century. Second, rank badges with tiger were found in the period between the early 17th century and the latter 18th century. Third, rank badges with Haechi were found in the early 17th century. Fourth, rank badges with lions can be found in remains of the mid 17th century, the literature and the portrait of the late 18th century. Finally, the rank badges with double leopards or with single leopard were found from a portrait dated the late of 18th century to the last period of Joseon dynasty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.960-976
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• 2010

Even though Joseon Dynasty strictly identified between military and civil officials, the dress and its ornament have been studied only based on embroidery emblems that are correctly identified between military and civil officials. Thus, this study intends to research the features of the only military officials uniform, Cheollik, different from the civil officials's identifying them with other features shown from the records, unearthed relics, stone statue, Joseon-tongsinsa-haengnyeoldo(Illustration of Joseon Delegation to Japan), etc., and its results are as follows: First, for wearing examples of the military officials, from the facts that they had worn mainly ordinary clothes, etc. on announcement of military service examination. There was no difference between military and civil officials's clothes by Daejeonhusokrok and the other documents, and there was an assertion that the form of the military and civil officials's clothes should be different by the document, Hongjejeonseo, in the latter term of the Joseon Dynasty. It is presumed that length, width and shape of sleeves might have been different. Second, unearthed Cheollik of the military officials are mostly from the 16th~17th centuries and most of them have removable sleeves according to statistics. The skirt had an opening and one or two slits. Various textiles were used. Third, military official statues of high governor wear small caps and helmets. They wear Cheollik with the collars same as the collar of Bangryeong and Jikryeong, which is also called Dopji Cheollik. It would be considered as they wear the Bangryeong on top of the Cheollik. Fourth, militarly officials described on the Joseon-tongsinsa-haengnyeoldo(Illustration of Joseon Delegation to Japan) wear Cheollik, Rip, Donggae, Okro, Hongsadae, Hwando, Deungchae.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.226-236
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• 2000

The mutual relation dynamics between the chulik and the Po for man in the period of chosun dynasty. The objectives of this study are to find out the mutual relation between the chulik and the Po for man-symeui, danryeong, changeui, jikryeong-, te change of chulik, and the ideas that made this change. Conclusions are decribed as followes: 1. The pattern of chulik and symeui is same, and they consist of bodice and skirt's length of the chulik was 1 : 1.3∼2 and it is effected by symeui. And symeui was effected by pratical structure of the chulik. 2. The functions of the chulik were the underwear of danryeong and the upperwear as military uniform. And then the length of chulik was shorter than danryeong in the early period of shosun dynasty. The sleeves were changed as large as danryeong in the late period of chosun dynasty. It is assumed that the changes were to be a functional underwear and to appear authority as upperwear. 3. Chulik as the underwear was hardly worm in the 17th centuries, and changeui was widely enjoyed instead of it. The reason of this change is that the pragmatism was emphasied in that period. 4. Chulik was widly worm instead of court dress, until the mid of 17th century after war. It was effected by outer factor of the war. And jikryeong was widly worm instead of chulik in the late period of chosun dynasty. It shows that military officers wanted to appear authority.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.910-926
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• 2022

Suitability for the human body, freedom to move and thermal insulation are important design considerations in military clothing. This study investigates the performance and wearer-satisfaction of the functional inner winter uniform currently used in Korea; it is hoped that our data can inform the development of a future version. Interviews were conducted, in which the participants suggested various improvements. The uniforms were mainly worn for guard duty or as daily attire in cold weather. The participants chose how many layers to wear according to the current situation, rather than sticking to the layering recommended in the manual. Layering choices did not significantly affect combat efficiency but were found to affect wearers' comfort. Wearers' satisfaction was found to depend on the convenience of the clothing, whether it was in the appropriate size, freedom to move and thermal insulation. Also, this study suggests a problem with the current size system, as the analysis of size distribution, across all sizes, the range of current production is insufficient to cover the demand.

• Journal of Korean Society for Quality Management
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.487-508
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• 2016

Purpose: Current testing method for drying rate used in military textiles has different results according to the public testing institute. So the purpose of this study was to suggest the alternative method which secure the reliability of the drying rate test. Methods: We measured the drying rate by various test methods for military clothes 14 species including quick drying function and compared the test results. Also, the collected data through the test was analyzed using one-way ANOVA. The p-value of results was compared by various testing institutions. Results: The results of this study are as follow; A deviation occurred among the testing institutions in original test method(KS K 0815). Whereas it is verified that there is no deviation among the institutions in 5% significance level by another test method(ISO 17617). Also it would increase work efficiency by reducing the testing time required to test by using ISO 17617. Conclusion: Based on the results, we can suggest the reliable test method of the drying rate.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.288-300
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• 2015

This study was executed to substitute Carbon-arc method, which is a method currently used for testing light-fastness of military textile products, with Xenon arc method. Specimens used in the study were classified according to the fabric material and color of military textile products and were composed of 11 items of 42 kinds with different colors. Light-fatness test was done by comparing the result of Carbon-arc(KS K 0700) and Xenon arc(KS K ISO 105-B02) method. In Xenon arc method, blue wool reference materials of 1~8 was used, and exposure condition preferred in American continent and light exposure method 3 were applied. After testing with both methods, grade of light-fastness, color difference, reflectance and color were examined. Even though there was a slight difference among 42 specimens used in the test, results exceeded the quality standard both in Carbon-arc-lamp and Xenon arc-lamp. Therefore, it was confirmed that applying KS K ISO 105-B02 together in the KS K 0700-regulated Ministry of National Defense standard and purchase order would also fit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.108-123
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate costumes worn by high government officials which are illustrated in Tamna Sullyeokdo at the era of King Sukjong of the Joseon Dynasty. The findings of the study are as fellows: 1. Tamna Sullyeokdo showed that Moksa wore an simplified version of Jobok at a congratulatory ceremony. They wore Sibok at such events as examinations, Yeonhyang or Jinsang. Particularly at Yeonhyang, Samo was decorated with some red flowers. The officials wore Yungbok when they were participated in military training, hunting or arrow shooting competitions. They wore Pyeonbok when they go on a trip 2. Pangwan wore Sibok when they took an examination. They wore Yungbok during military training while they wore Pyeonbok during Tamseung. 3. Hyeongam wore Sangbok at a congratulatory ceremony. When they take part in military training, examinations, Yeonhyang or Jinsang, those officials wore Sibok. They also wore Yungbok during military training, Yeonhyang or Jinsang. They wore Jurip decorated with some red flowers during Yeonhyang. And they wore Pyeonbok when they were inspecting military training of Seongjeonggun. 4. Gungwan wore Yungbok at every events. They wore Jurip decorated with Hosu and Jeonrip on their head, and wore Cheolrik during military drills, arrow shooting competitions, examinations, Jinsang, or Tamseung. They wore Jeonip decored with red flowers during Yeonhyang. During regular military trainings, those officials wore Jeonrip decorated with Sangmo on their head and wore Cheolrik and Jeonbok. During Tamseung, they wore Jeonrip decorated with Sangmo on their head and wore Jeonbok with Jungchimak or a set of Jeogori and Baji.