• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.46
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• pp.5-16
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to analyze the present fashion phenomenon by considering the types of Hiphop that shows the origination background and special feature. Popular music plays the most significant role in this 'age of culture' by its musical and visual methods through mass media. A fashion reflects and represents the culture of it's era. From the early 1990's a new fashion style called 'Hiphop' has become a universal hit among teenagers and even among those in 20s and 30s. As we can see from these points Hiphop fashion has the characteristics of being sporty borderless and genderless. In other words fashion represents individal's unique characters and their culture. This is why the study of fashion trends such as Hiphop is important; becanuse they can give us a series of fascinating insights into all sorts and conditions of men and women in our time : how they view theselves and how they choose to relate to other people whether of their own age or otherwise.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.116-125
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• 2004

In the history of western costume, women's hairstyle and headdress have been fluently studied but men's headgear has not. To study and manufacture headgear designs and details, which indicate varieties in forms and ornaments, can be utilized for the fashion currently in vogue. Purpose: the purpose of the study is to investigate one of the headgear, the hat in terms of shift in design and manufacturing method, and to study through manufacturing in order to do a literature review by era and to provide information as the source in new design. Study method and scope: Like previously manufactured and presented bonnet of women's headdress or headgear, the hat in the study was manufactured on the basis of literature review and portrait analysis. Target era is from the late 16th century to the early 17th century when the hat was used. The hat to be manufactured was selected by investigating the details such as hair style and hat features using literature. The pattern of the selected hat was analyzed, and velvet, silk, and wool were used as the materials as in the literature. Ornaments used similar things as in the photos.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.147-156
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to analyze the style of wide pants shown in collections from 2008 to 2011 and to extract main expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette of wide pants. The results of this study are as follows: 1) The wide pants which women wore in the 1970s were similar to men's. The aesthetic values for the wide pants included the social women's requests of the time. On the other hand, new wide pants shown in the current collections have diversified by adding designers' will to express contemporary women's tastes and fashion senses. 2) 742 wide pants shown in collections were composed of 459 straight, 147 bell-bottom and 136 flared pants. The design differs according to changes in the waist position and width of the wide pants. 3) Main expressional words of visual images for wide pants differ greatly depending on the silhouette of wide pants. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'showed that legs are long', 'looked taller', 'neat', 'relaxed', 'retro', 'modern' for straight pants. The words of 'retro', 'countrified', 'legs seemed to be long', 'enough' 'confident' 'looked like thighs that are slim' are ranked for bell-bottom pants. And the words of 'plentiful' 'loose', 'enough', 'retro' 'uncomfortable', 'relaxed', 'countrified' are marked down for flared pants.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.11-25
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• 2008

John William Waterhouse (1849-1917) is a painter renown for his romantic beautiful femme fatale images in the late 19th century in England. The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion in Waterhouse's femme fatale images. Waterhouse displays the devilism of femme fatale by the symbols of a wicked woman. He emphasized how wicked she is by means of water such as lake, river, and sea as well as symbols associated with demons such as forest, cave, naked woman, long hair, a monster-headed woman looking like an animal, water lily, and garden. On the other hand, he illustrates the woman's style as an image of a typical feminine beauty. Expressing naturally a fine-curved, immature girl's body with marvel-like white and clear skin in a kneeling down or crouching passive rose and depicting it as an innocent and fragile feminine image, he created a passive and lovely image of a young girl. With her eminent beauty and sex appeals, she lured men into danger. Words such as evil, women, and death had been used in describing her as femme fatale to emphasize her wickedness as well as to deliver the meaning across from the inside and to the outside. They also described her as a type of woman with body posture and fashion corresponding to the sexual ideology during the Victorian Age. His description of this fashion image was to show that femme fatale's fashion, which represents attraction and fatality, does not necessarily translate to an active fashion style that emphasizes sensuality. It also tends to minimize resistance and feelings of being threatened. Therefore, it allons us to acknowledge that even girlish body with innocent and frail-looking fashion can be a form of femme fatale, and that fashion styles is essential in forming the image of femininity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.155-172
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• 2002

The research has the aim of defining the special characteristics of the functionalist fashion design in the 1900s by understanding the essence of functionalism in the sociocultural contexts. Giving careful consideration to functionalist fashion design in the 1990s makes it possible to foresee the way of fashion design to meet the needs of the modems and men of the future world. To obtain the purposes, documentary study and demonstrative study with fashion photographs have been executed. Main results are as follows. Functionalism in the 1990s has been developed in different ways from the analogies in the beginning of the 20th century. It doesn't belong to an analogy but has the fused characteristics. It can be classified into techno functionalism influenced by new technology Pure functionalism related to minimalism. casual functionalism for those who are crazy about the speed and sports and enjoy the freedom and comfort and symbolic functionalism. Mechanical analogy has been developed into techno functionalism. Pure functionalism has come from the blend of mechanical and moral analogy, casual functionalism from mechanical. organic and moral analogy. and symbolic functionalism from organic and moral analogy. Since fashion design has much closer relation to human body and movements. it has been expressed considering a division of men and women and the places and times for the designs more than other designs. More casual manners of formal wear are distinct elements in functionalist fashion design in the 1990s. The 20th century general cultural phenomena including post modernism can be explained by eclectic functionalism. Functionalism considering Practical and conceptional functions ill continue and techno functionalism and casual functionalism in future fashion design will be expressed more strongly with new technology and casual trends of life style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.111-124
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the women´s fashion with the design elements(silhouette, material, color, detail and trimming) of androgynous image which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1986 through 2000. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. 1. The bon silhouette led the market in the first stage of mid 1980. The wool and leather with the masculine image, cotton and soft material with unisex image were used to express the androgynous image. The dark and mono tone with the masculine image were used a lot in color. In women´s fashion the minimalism style with simple image was expressed escaping from the decoration, in which the detail and trimming was not found as in men´s wear. 2. It showed that more and more feminine image was accepted in the second stage of early 1990. Women´s wear silhouette with the androgynous image has changed from masculine box silhouette boomed in the first stage to hourglass silhouette and slim silhouette. The wool and leather were used a lot as the materials in the first stage but the usage of the cotton with unisex image and soft texture were getting increased. The main colors were the black and the blue but the usage of the white and the red were on the increase showing the range of the use was extending. In the meantime, the detail and trimming were hardly used like in the first stage. 3. In the third stage of the late 1990, the silhouette has changed to slim style. The wool and leather were mainly used as the materials but the cotton and silk were on the increase showing that the materials of the feminine image were used in the women´s fashion with the androgynous image as well as the materials of masculine image. In color, the black and the white of the masculine image were used increasingly by the effect of the minimalism and the usage of the colors were various for the rising frequency of the trend colors usage.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.93-104
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• 1994

Nowadays computer technology is being applied in various areas of apparel design. In particular, since the task of pattern making is to be performed by a set of predefined drawing rules, the effect of computer application in pattern making will be significant, There have been a large number of studies on pattern making program. For instance, the previous studies have developed computer programs for pattern making of women's wear, men's wear, children's wear, Han-Bok, etc. Most of them have focused on the development of computer program for a particular kind of apparel only and, however, have disregarded the feasibility of developing a multi-purposed computer program so that is just can be modified to adopt for various styles. For example, by widening the hem-wide of the basic H-Line skirt and then connecting its waist line and widened hem-wide, we can draw the A-Line skirt. Therefore, we have developed a program which can make a pattern for the basic skirt and can mae, with a slight change of he program, other patterns for various style as well. The objective of this paper is to identify and organize modules which will be used for developing a general pattern making computer system. This general pattern making system is a computer program by which we can draw a variety of apparel styles. This system is restricted to skirt pattern making only. there presentation scheme used in organizing these modules is an AND-OR tree, the one being often used in representing a complex problem in artificial intelligence domain.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.676-690
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the symbolic meaning in body image and fashion style portrayed in Korea and American movies in aspects of sex, race, nature, and technology. The researcher analyzed movies in Korea and USA, and the results were as follows. In aspects of sex, movies portrayed new masculinity and femininity escaped from previous gender stereotypes, and the clothing styles characterized sex identity and sex roles. In aspects of race, more various races appeared in America movies than Korea＇s, and the appearance and stereotypes related with race were blurred by the globalization and the change of film market environments. In aspects of nature, Korea movie portrayed the human being as lyrical appearance in nature, and America movie expressed the human as a strong men conquering the nature in adventure movie or super human image combined with nature thing which endowed nature＇s superior characteristics to human body in fantasy and science fiction movies. In aspects of technology, the human bodies were described as cyborg, alien, or super human, which symbolized the do-identification in digital world, de-boundarization between human and machines, and the human＇s uncertainty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.49-69
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to develop the competitive swimming suit design with Korean traditional images. which excels in dimension of functionality, aesthetics, and symbolism. To accomplish this study, first. a theoretical examination about Korean image was added, on the basis of the practical research about professional swimmers' preferences as well as the theoretical research about the history of swimming suits and the qualifications of competitive swimming suits in the prior study. Next, practical designing was performed to achieve the creative designs according to Lamb & Kallal's design process. and the superiority of the newly designed swimming suits was evaluated by using Grant's alpha-beta model. The results of this study can be summarized as follows : First. in the problem apprehension stage. the need for swimming suit designs with Korean traditional images for professional swimmers was acknowledged, and three major criteria. which are functionality, aesthetics. and symbolism has been verified. Second. in the preliminary brainstorming stage, considerable amounts of data for the design concept considering the criteria above have been gathered. The athletic one-piece for women and the brief for men in style and nylon/lycra in fabric were used in the aspect of functionality. And the S Korean traditional colors in color and Tae-guk motive and others in pattern were selected to apply Korean traditional images in the aspects of aesthetics and symbolism. Finally, the 13 series of creative designs with 4 themes( l17pieces in total) have been suggested. Third, in the design improvement stage. after the preference to each design was surveyed, reformation of the designs was arranged on the basis of the results. Fourth, in the prototyping stage. the 17 actual prototypes, including 13 pieces for women and 4 pieces for men were produced. Fifth. in the evaluation stage. the evaluation procedure using Grant's alpha-beta model was performed. As a result, the newly designed swimming suits were rated above other existing ones in all three aspects of functionality, aesthetics, and symbolism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.95-109
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• 2015

The purpose of this Study is to understand Supsin (shoes for dead) in late Chosun dynasty through records and excavated relics. The research records in this study were two types which one was official records as The Annals of The Chosean Dynasty(朝鮮王朝實錄), Dairy of the Royal Secretariat(承政院日記) ets and the other was private records as Korean literary collections of confucian scholars in classical chinese(文集) ect. as for relics use two types of materials that one is the excavated supsins and the other is Research Reports of Excavated Costumes published from museums. Through the Collections, we can notice that shoes were several types which Wunhae(雲鞋), Danghae(唐鞋) Onhae(溫鞋) Wunli(雲履), Taesahae(太史鞋) in Chosun dynasty. these were worn in different ways according to wearer's gender, the social status, daily life or rituals, inside or outside in palace. Wunhae and Wunli was the most ceremonial shoes for man and Onhae was the most ceremonial shoes for woman. the dead man worn the Wunhae or Wunli for Supsin and the dead woman worn Onhae. we could see they use the most ceremonial shoes for supsin. through the records, we could see the change that Women's Supsin was written for the first time in 18th Saraepyenram(四禮便覽). men's Supsin was recorded as '履', while Women's Supsin was recorded as '鞋' in Saraepyenram. the reason for making difference between man and woman in costumes(男女有別). and the excavated Supsin showed that the dead worn more ceremonial shoes than records. these changes mean one of the results for making korean style rituals from chinese style(國俗化).