• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.183-199
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• 1995

Among many different approaches of study of history of Kokuryo clothing culture, this study attempted to understand the costume by including political , militarial , economical , cultural , and religious aspects of Kokuryo society. It also included pictures in mural tumbs and old studies in Kokuryo costume. Clothing culture related to political life clearly differenciated social status by restricting styles and colors of clothes according to peoples social status. Generally people in high social status wore clothes with detailed decorations invariety of colors, and also used more fabrics than people in low social status. Costume was also affected by military life style that needed to meet the vigorous physical activities. High rank worriors wore iron scaled shielded clothes with red decoration on it which identified different ranks of the worriors. Economy also contributed it role to affect the clothing styles in Kokuryo. Based on old studies of costume, this study focused on people's life styles that included hunting and weaving . Hunting clothes were differentiated by decorating wit feathers . Jowoguan(조우관) is one of the examples. Since weaving was a major economic power or factor, silk and flax were very popular. People even used those fabrics to pay tax. Regarding cultural aspect , this study emphasized on song and dance wear along with active wear. Song and dance wear specially decorated with poka dots, however men and women wear were claryly distinguished. Unlike other clothes that were restricted in colors and styles, song and dance wear were decorated in variety of colors. Lastly this study presents religious aspects of Kokuryo costume . Monks wore black clothing (내의) that was influenced from China and the Western Regions(서역). To emphasize their religious power, Gods in the pictures of mural tumbs wore clothes with wings and feathers. God of fire and agriculture wore simple dresses without much decorations which represented simple life style of working class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.221-232
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• 1995

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and thirty four pictures of the engraved painting on the wood. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the forth year of the king Wu based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and Pulsul-Yaesu 가) Men's wear 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots. 2. Clothes : 1) King wore an uniform of Mien-lu Kuan system. 2) The Crown Prince and high rank officials wore Yuan-yu-Kuan Won-jung-po-ju-Kuan, Sa-bang-Kuan, Yun-wha-Kuan and montain shape Po-ju-Kuan as a court dress. 3) Officials put on the Pok-du as an official dress and Won-jung-ip-mo, Kun and Mo as an everyday dress, the monk put on the diamond shape Do-kuan and Du-kun and the soldier put on the Helmet. Costume system of man was as follows ; They wore exchanged shape collar, big sleeve jacket, long skirt, apron, hanging precious stone big belt as a Mien-pok. 4) The soldiers wore helmet, Keun-Kap, Scarf, Pee-Bak, Hung-Kap, Pok-Kap, Yang-Dang-Kap, We-Yo-Kap, Kum-Kap, and caries arms. Lower-level officials wore Pe-Bal, Kun-Mo, gae, won-leung, very small sleve jacket, a long coat reaching up to the knee length, slacks, belt, loin cloth and apron. 5) Children's bind their hair up angle shape and wore a half long jacket raching up to the hip and slacks. 나) Women's wear; 1. hair style and hair dress; 1) High rank women's hair style was very extravaganceful. They made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and decoraed precious stone, pan shape head dress, wheel shape head dress, and flower shape precious stone decorated head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) High rank ladi's wore Kun-Kyun attached jacket, and jacket sleeves decorated pleats, and pleats decorated long skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf, this type is the same with Dang Dynasty, five dynasty of china, Song, Kum, Won, Myung Dynasty, and our costume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dyansty. 2) Official ladies wore exchange shape collor, big sleeve jacket, long pleats skirt, apron, and back apron, scarf. 3) Women wore top knot hair style and decorated by ribbons. Shoulder scarf attached small sleeve jacket and wore reaching up to the knee length. Side seam is open and under wear was long skirt. 4) High knot hair style and exchanged shape collor jacket, under wear wore long skirt. They wore under skirts and the jackets. 5) High knot hair style, exchange shape collor jacket reaching up to the knee length small sleeve under wear wore long skirt, belt. 6) High knot hair style, big sleeve jacket and long skirt. 7) Foot wear wore boots, mokasin type shoes, sandal.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.743-754
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• 2014

This study identified the internal motives for the purchase behavior of Korean male consumers in multi-brand fashion stores by conducting in-depth interviews with 8 men in their 20s and 30s. All respondents had significant experience with this type of store. Data were analyzed in an inductive way and compared with Bohemianism to interpret and described the results as a recent phenomenon of men's fashion. The five internal motives were extracted from analysis: the pursuit of freedom of expression, the counter-cultural resistance to department stores and domestic fashion brands, which tend to copy designs from international brands, the pursuit of mobility and adventure for trying to search and wear a new fashion style, the pursuit of pleasure through store experience, and the pursuit of artistic value by considering goods purchased in multi-brand fashion stores as artistic and cultural goods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.428-437
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• 2018

This study derives evaluation terms by analyzing the semantic relationship between design elements and sentiment terms in regards to fashion design. As for research methods, a total of 38,225 texts from Daum and Naver Blogs from November 2015 to October 2016 were collected to analyze the parts, frequency, centrality and semantic networks of the terms. As a result, design elements were derived in the form of a noun while fashion image and user's emotional responses were derived in the form of adjectives. The study selected 15 noun terms and 52 adjective terms as evaluation terms for men's striped shirts. The results of semantic network analysis also showed that the main contents of the users of men's striped shirts were derived as characteristics of expression, daily wear, formation, and function. In addition, design elements such as pattern, color, coordination, style, and fit were classified with evaluation results such as wide, bright, trendy, casual, and slim.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2021

This study classified short adult male body types and identified characteristics by body type according to Size Korea's 7th human system measurement data for men in their 20s to 60s. There were four body types for short adult males. Type 1 was a 'short bird legs-normal body shape' with an average body size, low body height, short torso length, thin legs, and no sagging shoulders. Type 2 was a 'short torso thin body' with a small body size, a slim body, a high body height, a short torso length and no sagging shoulders. Type 3 was a 'thick leg-overweight body shape' with a large body size, thick legs, low body height, small shoulder length and obesity. Type 4 was a 'long bird legs-normal body' with a normal body size, high body height, thin legs, long torso and sagging shoulders. The development of clothing design and pattern reflecting the body shape characteristics of short adult males should be improved to fit clothing and suitability. It is necessary to increase the satisfaction of ready-to-wear for consumers with various body types by adding the size for shorter men through a subdivision of the ready-made size system.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.723-740
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• 2022

This study aimed to develop an Arduino-based garment pressure device (APD) on the basis of using Single-Tact sensor by suggesting the reliable clothing pressure range and coefficient of selected sensors through the APD calibration process. Once the APD was validated, the pressure of the experimental men's lower body compression wears was measured using the APD and was compared to the pressure measured using the existing air-pack type pressure meter. The subjects were one mannequin and eight men in their 20's, and the trial compression wears were calf sleeves and pants. Clothing pressures were measured in hip, mid-thigh, calf, and ankle. In terms of the 99% confidence level, the experimental clothing pressure measured at the designated measuring points using the APD was considered identical to the one measured using an existing clothing pressure meter. Therefore, on the basis of the experiment results, this study demonstrated that the APD is as reliable as the existing clothing pressure meter within the pressure ranges of 0.54-16.79 kPa and 0.18-25.47 kPa as provided by the SingleTact sensor supplier's data on the basis of using an external ADC (Analog to Digital Converter) module.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.410-421
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• 2018

The study is designed to develop a educational basic pants patterns for men, and has been analyzed focusing on the university textbooks published since 2000. We also used CAD programs and virtual fitting programs to analyze the fitness of pants. To do this purpose, after choosing 7 Men's Wear textbooks, selected patterns were drawn and measured using PAD system and were compared and analyzed. Also, the appearance evaluation was examined through virtual fitting and then evaluated 21 male and female university students in their 20s. After supplementing the problems of the patterns in the existing textbooks, a pattern was developed and verified the fitness of the developed pattern. The results of comparing the proposed measurement items of each textbook for the pants pattern indicated a significant differences in terms of hip circumference of each pattern, which were between 96~105cm. A comparison of the drafting methods of each pattern showed the drafting methods for the crotch length, the front crotch extension, the back crotch extension were the difference. The results of appearance evaluation were pattern E presented the slimmest fit and pattern D presented the loosest fit. As a result of analysis of pants pattern, a waist circumference 82cm, a hip circumference 98cm, a crotch length 24cm, a pants length 104cm and a ham line width 46cm were most suitable. The development pattern was evaluated as superior to the existing pattern through the appearance evaluation of the virtual fitting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.746-754
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• 2016

This study aimed to investigate the status of ready-made suit and MTM (Made-to-measure) suit production with 10 men's suit brands turning over 200 billion won. Their target age group is late 30's to late 40's. Regarding production for the ready-made suit, eight out of 10 brands are using both KS and their own sizing. Classification of body shapes was done in 8 brands, mostly for upper body in simple ways (lean, normal, and obese). All brands are conducting fittings on only standard size. The number of sizes produced is varying depending on the brands; 9 to 17 for a jacket and 9 to 20 for a pair of pants. Regarding on the MTM production, four out of 10 brands have implemented MTM production. The rate of MTM production to their total production is about 15-20%. There were positive opinions on MTM production since it enables to reduce stocks through a small quantity of production for necessary sizes only. The reasons of orders of MTM production were answered as 'no size available', 'unique body shape', etc., and most orders were placed by consumers who are fat-bellied or have thick thighs. They have used MTM automated CAD software developed by Gerber Technology or Investronica. All the brands have utilized automated marker-making software and cutting facilities for MTM production.

• 한국데이터정보과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2006.04a
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• pp.267-278
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to identify differences between characteristics of purchase behavior of outdoor wear consumers, demographic variables and mountain climbing related variables. The subjects of surveys are selected among men and women consumers having experiences of purchasing outdoor wear in ages from 20's to over 50's who live in the vicinity of Busan. Data and information collected are analyzed by using SPSS Program. Results from the analysis of purchasing purpose indicates that they buy outdoor wear conducive to two similar reasons; that is, "only to exercise and enjoy mountain climbing" and "either to wear it in time of climbing mountain or everyday life," and results from the analysis of purchase frequency reveals that '$1\sim2$ times'a you is the highest. Results from analysis of preference of brand of outdoor wear reveals that Kolon Sport is followed by the North Face and K2.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

The objective of this study is to analyze the characteristic of a functional design for a commercial outdoor brand jacket based on 3 types of functions : windproof, waterproof, and cold proof. To analyze the design and fabric characteristics of outdoor jackets by function, 903 men's and women's outdoor jacket images were selected from the catalogues during S/S 2009 - F/W 2011 of the 6 brands: The North Face, Columbia Sports Wear, Kolon Sports, K2, Arcteryx and Mont-Bell. These brands were selected based on their high market share and brand awareness of the outdoor brands in Korea. In this study, design elements analysis was conducted as following 8 elements: hood/collar height/central front flap/waistline/pocket location/ventilation for the body part/sleeve patterns/cuff for the sleeve part. Fabrics were analyzed by the frequency of fabric types used in the 3 jacket types. According to the result derived from the analysis of the six brands of outdoor wear jacket design trends by year, detachable hood and a co-use of velcro and elastic bands have been mainly designed for all of windproof, waterproof, and cold proof jacket to all in order to respond quickly to changes in the external environment. For reinforced storage function on trekking, the number of pockets has been gradually growing, and a function was being developed to connect an electronic device to a pocket. The method, result, and collateral observations relevant to each of these phases are described. Outdoor jacket design characteristics were investigated for outdoor brands, which can provide data to suggest more accurate functional design, and satisfy functional design needs. In this regard, this research was significant in the sense that it suggested preliminary data to reconsider competitiveness of the brand products.