• Water for future
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.159-168
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• 1995

The run-up and the evolution of solitary waves on steep beaches are investigated by using a two-dimensional boundary integral equation model. The model is first used to compute the run-up heights of solitary waves on a relatively mind slope. The model is verified by comparing the computed numerical solutions with available experimental data, other numerical solutions and approximated analytical solutions. The agreement between the present numerical solutions and the other data is found to be excellent. The model is then applied to the calculation of run-up heights on very steep slopes. As far as the maximum run-up of solitary waves is concerned, the boundary integral equation model provides reasonable and reliable solutions. Finally, the evolution on steep beaches is also examined and the obtained wave heights are compared with those calculated from the Green's law.

• Water for future
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.389-397
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• 1988

For determination of the design wves at the seven selected sites in the South Sea, a method of hindcasting the past annual largest significant waves from the records of both the wind speed at the nearby weather stations and the weather charts of typhoons are utilized. The design significant waves in deep water are determined through the extremal probability analysis for three major wave directions(SW, S, SE) at each site from the annual extremal series of wave heights. Design significant wave heights with the return period of 100 years ranged between 4.6m and 8.8m with the wave period ranging between 8.2 seconds and 12.9 seconds. Through the analysis of weather maps, both the fetches for the wind directions SW-SE along the South Coast and the relationship between the wind speed at sea and the wind speed at the nearby land weather stations for seasonal winds are determined. The wind speed at sea are found to be 0.8-0.9 times the wind speed at the land stations for $U_1$>15m/s. The ratio of the duration-averaged wind speed to the maximum wind speed varies between 0.7-0.9 as a negative exponential function for the duration ranging 2< t< 13 hours.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.36 no.6
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• pp.364-379
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• 2022

Coastal communities have been vulnerable to extreme coastal flooding induced by hurricanes and tsunamis. Many studies solely focused on the overland flow hydrodynamic and loading mechanisms on individual inland structures or buildings. Only a few studies have investigated the effects of flooding mitigation measures to protect the coastal communities represented through a complex series of building arrays. This study numerically examined the performance of flood-mitigation measures from tsunami-like wave-induced overland flows. A computational fluid dynamic model was utilized to investigate the performance of mitigation structures such as submerged breakwaters and seawalls in reducing resultant forces on a series of building arrays. This study considered the effects of incident wave heights and four geometrically structural factors: the freeboard, crest width of submerged breakwaters, and the height and location of seawalls. The results showed that prevention structures reduced inundation flow depths, velocities, and maximum forces in the inland environment. The results also indicated that increasing the seawall height or reducing the freeboard of a submerged breakwater significantly reduces the maximum horizontal forces, especially in the first row of buildings. However, installing a low-lying seawall closer to the building rows amplifies the maximum forces compared to the original seawall at the shoreline.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.177-185
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• 2012

Wave field measurements were made over a period of 18 days to study the spatial distribution of incident wave on seaweed tarm field around Gumil-up Sea, Wando, Korea. These measured data were compared with data from the Geomun-do ocean weather/wave observation buoy. A numerical simulation model that combined the offshore design wave with the seasonal normal incoming wave was used to study the incident wave distribution surrounding a seaweed farm. The results are summarized as follows. (1) On-site wave measurements showed that the major relationship between maximum and significant wave height was $H_{max}=1.6H_{1/3}$. (2) Offshore incident wave energy reaching the coast was greatly influenced by the wind direction. A north wind reduced the incident wave energy and a south wind increased it. (3) The calculated maximum wave height under the design wave boundany conditions was in the range of 4~5 m and the reduction in the incident wave height ratio ranged from approximately 38.1% to 47.6% at Gumil-up Sea. Under normal wave conditions, the maximum wave heights were 3.6~4.0 m in summer and 2.3~2.7 m in winter while the reduction in the incident wave height ratio was about 41.8% to 49.1%. (4) The sea state in the southern area of Gumil-up was the most affected by ocean waves, whereas the sea state in the northern area was very stable. The significant wave ratio in the south was about six times that in the north.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• v.39 no.8
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• pp.843-848
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• 2015

The objective of this study is to observe and optimize a typical ocean environment and reduce wave reflections in the wave flume. In order to generate ocean waves in the wave flume, a combination of a horizontal piston type wave generator and wave absorbers was installed in the channel. Two probes for measuring the wave heights, i.e., wave level gauges, were used to record the continuous variation of the wave surface, the phase difference, and the maximum (crest) and minimum (trough) points of the propagating waves. In order to optimize the shape and size of the propagating waves, several absorption methods were proposed. Apart from an active wave absorption method, we used methods that involved vertical porous plates, horizontal punching plates, and sloping-wall-type wave absorbers. To obtain the best propagating waves, a sloping-wall-type wave absorber was chosen and tested in terms of the constitutive filling materials and the location and shape of the plate. This study also focused on the theoretical prediction of the wave surface, separating them into the incident and reflective components. From the results, it is evident that the wave absorber comprising a hard filling material exhibits a better performance than the absorber comprising a soft material, i.e., the wave absorber can be a strong sink to control the energy of the incoming wave. In addition, larger wave absorbers correspond to lower reflectance because a larger volume can reduce the incoming wave energy. Therefore, at constant absorber conditions, the reflectance of the wave increases as the wave period increases. Finally, the reflectance of the wave was controlled to be less than 0.1 in this study so that the wave flume can be used to simulate an offshore environment.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.29 no.3B
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• pp.289-301
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• 2009

In this work, wave run-up heights and resultant wave forces on a vertical revetment due to tsunami (solitary wave) are investigated numerically using a numerical wave tank model called CADMAS-SURF (CDIT, 2001. Research and Development of Numerical Wave Channel (CADMAS-SURF). CDIT library, No. 12, Japan.), which is based on a 2-D Navier-Stokes solver, coupled to a volume of fluid (VOF) method. The third order approximate solution (Fenton, 1972. A ninth-order solution for the solitary wave. J. of Fluid Mech., Vol. 53, No.2, pp.257-271) is used to generate solitary waves and implemented in original CADMAS-SURF code. Numerical results of the wave profiles and forces are in good agreements with available experimental data. Using the numerical results, the regression curves determined from the least-square analysis are proposed, which can be used to determine the maximum wave run-up height and force on a vertical revetment due to tsunami. In addition, the capability of CADMAS-SURF is demonstrated for tsunami wave forces acting on an onshore structure using various configuration computations including the variations of the crown heights of the vertical wall and the position of the onshore structure. Based on the numerical results such as water level, velocity field and wave force, the direct effects of tsunami on an onshore structure are discussed.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.25-47
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• 2020

A study of the wave conditions for the Asabo offshore location at the Qua Iboe oil field in Eastern Nigeria has been carried out. Statistical analysis was applied to three (3) years of data comprising spectral periods, Tp and significant wave heights, H_s. The data was divided into two (2); data from October to April represents one set of data and data from May to September represents another set of data. The results were compared with similar studies at other locations offshore of West Africa. It was found that there is an absence of direct swellwaves from the Southern Ocean reaching the location under study (the Asabo site). This work suggests that the wave system is largely emanating from the North Atlantic storms. The presence of numerous islands near the Asabo location shields the site from effects of storms from south west and therefore swells from the Southern Ocean. It is noted that the local wind has little or no contribution. An H_s maximum of 2 m is noted at the Asabo offshore location. It is found that the Weibull distribution best describes the wave distribution at Asabo. Thus, the Weibull distribution is suggested to be adequate for long term prediction of extreme waves needed for offshore design and operations at this location.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2006.10a
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• pp.134-143
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• 2006

Out of all types of motions the critical motions leading to capsize is roll. The dynamic amplification in case of roll motion may be large for ships as roll natural frequency generally falls within the frequency range of wave energy spectrum typical used for estimation of motion spectrum. Roll motion is highly non-linear in nature. Den are various representations of non-linear damping and restoring available in literature. In this paper an uncoupled non-linear roll equations with three representation of damping and cubic restoring term is solved using a perturbation technique. Damping moment representations are linear plus quadratic velocity damping, angle dependant damping and linear plus cubic velocity dependant damping. Numerical value of linear damping coefficient is almost same for all types but non-linear damping is different. Linear and non-linear damping coefficients are obtained form free roll decay tests. External rolling moment is assumed as deterministic with sinusoidal form. Maximum roll amplitude of non-linear roll equation with various representations of damping is calculated using analytical procedure and compared with experimental results, which are obtained form forced tests in regular waves by varying frequency with three wave heights. Experiments indicate influence of non-linearity at resonance frequency. Both experiment and analytical results indicates increase in maximum roll amplitude with wave slope at resonance. Analytical results are compared with experiment results which indicate maximum roll amplitude analytically obtained with angle dependent and cubic velocity damping are equal and difference from experiments with these damping are less compared to non-linear equation with quadratic velocity damping.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.65-71
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• 2014

In recent years, strong typhoons have passed South Korea almost every year and severe damages were incurred directly and indirectly. However, instances where wave and wind data were procured from the offshore approach path of the typhoon are very rare and thus researchers are experiencing difficulties in obtaining calibration and verification data of typhoon-generated wave modeling. This paper provides a synthesis of records of observations by the Korea Meteorological Administration and Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology on storm waves generated by the typhoons SONGDA, NABI, and SHANSHAN that passed from 2004 to 2006 in order to help researchers interested in typhoon-generated wave numerical modeling. Although the trajectories of typhoon NABI and SHANSHAN were east of the Korea Strait, a significant wave height of 8.3 m was measured at Namhyeongjedo located east of Geojedo. Moreover, an unprecedented significant wave height of 12.2 m was measured for both typhoons at a station 1.4 km away from Yeongil Bay breakwater. Meanwhile, a comparative analysis of data obtained with a ocean data buoy at Geojedo and a Directional Waverider at Namhyeongjedo showed maximum wave heights that were similar but considerably different significant wave heights.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.400-403
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• 2012

Laboratory experiments were conducted for tsunami inundation to an urban area with large building roughness. The waterfront portion of the city of Seaside which is located on the US Pacific Northwest coast, was replicated in 1/50 scale in the wave basin. Tsunami heights and velocities on the inundated land were measured at approximately 31 locations for one incident tsunami heights with an inundation height of approximately 10 m (prototype) near the shoreline. The inundation pattern and speed were more severe and faster in some areas due to the arrangement of the large buildings. Momentum fluxes along the roads were estimated using measure tsunami inundation heights and horizontal fluid velocities. As expected, the maximum momentum flux was near the shoreline and decreased landward. Inundation heights and momentum flux were slowly decreased through the road with buildings on each side. The results from this study showed that the horizontal inundation velocity is an important factor for the external force of coastal structures.