• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권11호
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• pp.1350-1357
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• 2003

This research was aimed to establish the standard extraction and analytical procedures for examining the chromophoric substance in madder root with the ultimate goal of identifying the dyes in badly faded textiles of archaeological origin. The separation temperature of gas chromatography, pH and other extraction conditions were tested. The results were as follows: The suitable separation temperature for the GC cappillary column was 50∼305$^{\circ}C$, and methanol was a good GC solvent for both standard alizarin and madder extraction. The best extraction of madder was achieved by 90 min soaking in room temperature followed by filtration and the actual heat extraction procedure. The best pH for extracting alizarin was pH 3 and above pH 5 alizarin was not detectible. Only alizarin and no purpurin was found in the extraction of the currently used madder plant.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.579-590
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• 2004

This research was aimed to investigate and compare the effectiveness of TLC and GC-MS methods in the analysis of chromophoric substances extracted from madder plant. Alizarin and purpurin 0.3% solution were used as comparative standards; madder extraction was prepared by heating the solution of powdered madder at 80℃, pH 1.5, for 90 min. Best elution solvent for TLC in silica gel plate was toluene:ethyl acetate=9:1, which resulted in red and yellow spots from madder extraction each of which showed R/sub f/ values 0.32-0.43 and 0.07-0.11. Although the red spot in particular exhibited similar characteristics as standard purpurin in color, shape, and R/sub f/ values, the result was inconsistent throughout different TLC trials. GC-MS analysis showed only small amount of alizarin and no purpurin in the madder extraction. Other chromophoric substance such as 2-furancarboxaldehyde, 5-(hydroxymethyl)-, anthralin, and danthron were also detected in small amounts. The result indicated that TLC was less sensitive to detecting and identifying the natural dyestuff which is generally constituted with a number of similar but chemically different chromophoric substances.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권6호
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• pp.929-941
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• 2014

Dyeability of Indian natural dyestuffs to fabrics was investigated. Indian dyestuffs are more inexpensive than domestic dyestuffs purchased at oriental medicine stores. We studied the dyeability of madder, marigold, and pomegranate imported from India on cotton, silk, and wool fabrics. Dyebaths of a combination ratio of 80:20, 60:40, 50:50, 40:60 and 20:80 of madder and marigold, fabrics with orange colors were dyed. To evaluate the dyeability of dyed fabrics, K/S values, Munsell color values and CIE L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ were measured. The dyeability of fabrics dyed in dyebaths of pH 4 and pH 7 were higher than pH 10. The dyeability in pH 4 was better than pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with madder and marigold showed good dyeability and wool fabrics showed good affinity in madder dyebath and fair affinity in marigold dyebath. Cotton fabrics showed fair affinity in a marigold dyebath of pH 4 and pH 7. Cotton fabrics dyed with a 60:40 ratio of madder and marigold showed 4.76YR of Munsell color value. Silk Fabrics dyed with a 40:60 ratio showed 4.76YR and wool fabrics dyed with 20:80 ratio showed 5.57RY. The ratios produced the closest colors to 5.0YR of orange. This result indicated that marigold had a more powerful effect on cotton fabrics while madder was stronger on wool fabrics. Fading grades of washing colorfastness of wool and silk fabrics dyed in mixed dyebaths were higher than 3.5-4.0 and higher than homogeneous dyebaths. Staining grades of washing colorfastness of all dyed fabrics were between grades 3.5-5.0. Colorfastness to dry-cleaning was high as grades 4.0-5.0 in all of dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to light of dyed fabrics showed a fair grade of 3.5-5.0; in addition, wool fabrics showed lower grades than silk and cotton fabrics.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.82-96
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to enhance the usability of hanji fabrics by expanding the color space of hanji fabrics. For the expression of various colors of hanji fabrics, single and combination dyeing were carried out using natural indigo(Niram, Polygonum tinctorium), marigold extract colorant, and madder extract colorant for three types of hanji fabrics with different fiber compositions(hanji, hanji/cotton, hanji/silk). The light, medium, and deep colors obtained through individual single dyeing were shown to be PB Munsell colors in the case of indigo dyeing, Y color for marigold dyeing, and R color for madder dyeing. For combination dyeing, indigo dyeing was first carried out under the conditions for light, medium, and deep colors, respectively, and marigold or madder dyeing was performed thereafter. Indigo and marigold combination dyeing produced PB, B, BG, G, and GY Munsell colors and indigo and madder combination dyeing produced PB, P, RP, and R Munsell colors. Overall, the color change of hanji/silk fabric was more diverse than that of hanji fabric and hanji/cotton fabric. In the indigo, marigold, and madder combination dyeing into individual deep colors, blackish PB and P Munsell colors was obtained. Colorfastness to washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, and light were relatively good with above rating 4. Finally, 9 colors excluding YR color out of 10 Munsell color were obtained. We confirmed that the expansion of the color space of Hanji fabrics by the single and combination dyeing with indigo, marigold, and madder.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.241-248
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• 2019

In this study, improving the wash and rubbing fastness of a natural coloring matter from Madder extract dyed on Tencel nonwoven. The cationic finishing agent(RBP), nonionic finishing agent(HPX) and mordant(PAW) were used to improving the color fastness. The two types(exhaustion and pad-dry-cure) finishing process were investigated with various finishing agent concentration. The color strength, wash and rubbing fastness of Tencel nonwoven dyed with Madder extract have been evaluated by various dye concentration and finishing agent. The exhaustion process treated with the cationic finishing agent(RBP) was effective to improving washing and rubbing fastness.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권2호
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• pp.228-242
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• 2019

This research investigated the effect of mordants on the degradation of madder dye in silk when silk was treated by the H2O2/UV condition as a laboratory simulation of burial induced degradation. Alum, iron, and alum/iron composite mordanting methods were applied to silk before dyeing with madder dye. Dye extracted from silk was examined using HPLC-DAD-MS analysis. The abundance of the chromatogram peak at 8.88 min retention time was used as the concentration of alizarin pigment in silk. K/S values, CIE $L^{\ast}a^{\ast}b^{\ast}$ values; in addition, Munsell HVC values were obtained using a spectrocolorimeter. The findings indicated that alizarin degraded most severely in silk mordanted by alum/iron composite mordanting than alum mordanting or iron mordanting. Mordanting with alum alone provided a relatively lower dye fixation at the point of dyeing; however, it provided a better survival of alizarin after 12 hours of degradation treatment.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권12호
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• pp.1608-1618
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• 2005

본 연구는 꼭두서니와 그 표준 색소인 알리자린으로 염색한 직물에 조건적 퇴화를 유도하고, 가스 크로마토그라피 질량분석기(GC-MS)를 이용해 퇴화물을 분석하여 이를 선행연구에서 밝혀진 표준 알리자린 색소의 퇴화물과 비교함으로써 대조구로서의 꼭두서니 염료의 정보를 완성하는데 그 목적을 둔다. 아울러 퇴화 전후 염직물의 색차를 측정하여 조건퇴화에 따른 색의 변화를 조사하였다. 퇴화조건은 상온 (RT), 저온$(7^{\circ}C)$ (LT), 고온$(100^{\circ}C)$(OV)의 세 종류의 온도 조건과 염료 폐수처리 용도로 활용되고 있는 $H_2O_2/UV$법 (PER)을 사용하였다. 퇴화시간은 6시간, 24시간, 48시간, 1주, 2주, 4주 각각을 측정하였다. 꼭두서니와 알리자린 염직물 모두 퇴화 전후의 시료에서 alizarin(10.1분)이 검출되었다. 꼭두서니와 알리자린 염직물 모두 퇴화 후 benzoic acid(4.7분), 2,4-di-tert-butylphenol(6.8분), phthalic anhydride(5.8분)가 검출되었다. 꼭두서니와 알리자린 염직물 모두 퇴화 후 붉은색과 노란색이 감소하였다. 꼭두서니 염직물보다 알리자린 염직물의 경우 퇴화 전후의 색차가 더 심하였다. 그러나 가장 퇴화조건이 강한 PER퇴화조건 하에서는 꼭두서니 염직물의 색차가 1주 경과 후에도 매우 심하게 나는 것을 볼 수 있었다. 본 연구의 결과꼭두서니와 그 표준 색소로 염색한 직물이 퇴화할 경우에도 선행연구에서 밝혀진 알리자린의 퇴화물인 benzoic acid, 2,4-di-tert-butylphenol, phthalic anhydride가 검출됨을 확인하였다. 따라서 이들 화합물은 갈변되어 고유의 색을 알 수 없는 출토복식의 염료를 판정할 때 꼭두서니 염료의 사용여부를 확인할 수 있는 대조구 화합물로 사용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다. 퇴화 전후의 색차에 대한 측정결과는 퇴화에 따른 염료의 색 변화에 대한 결과이다 출토복식의 갈변현상은 염료의 변색과 더불어 토양 유기물에 의한 착색도 기인하므로, 출토복식의 색상 변화를 실질적으로 조사하기 위해서는 본 연구의 결과와 함께 토양유기물에 의한 착색에 대한 연구가 병행되어야 할 것으로 본다

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권6호
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• pp.827-836
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• 2013

Indigotin, indirubin, berberine, palmatine, alizarin, and purpurin are major pigments of indigo plant, Phellodendron bark, and madder. The six pigments were examined using the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument for the purpose of the simultaneous detection of the pigments in a single sample run. The HPLC-DAD-MS method examined the individual pigment solutions in DMSO, a solution containing 6 pigments, and the DMSO extract of the silk dyed with a dye solution of 5 pigments excluding indirubin. The retention times of the HPLC chromatograms, ${\lambda}_{max}$ of the uv-vis absorption bands in the DAD analyses, and the molecular ions detected for the compound peaks in the MSD analyses were consistent throughout the analyses of individual pigment solutions, mixed pigment solutions, and dye extracted from silk dyeing. The developed instrumental method of the simultaneous detection of six pigments can identify dye in an exhumed textile if the textile is dyed using any one (or multiple) pigments of indigo, Phellodendron bark, or madder plant.

• 원예과학기술지
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.79-84
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• 2012

An efficient protocol for cryopreservation of madder hairy root cultures has been developed using droplet-vitrification. In previous study, combining loading solution C4 (35% PVS3) and vitrification solution B5 (80% PVS3) was the most effective method. In this study, we tried three types of vitrification solution, B5, A3 (90% PVS2, on ice), and A5 (70% PVS2, on ice). Combining loading solution C4 and vitrification solution A5 (on ice) showed the best regeneration rate in this study. Histological changes of the cells within the hairy root of madder were also observed in different steps. The cells from the hairy roots of the control treatment were full and intact with different size of vacuoles and obvious cell nucleus having a dark nucleolus. After the stage of preparing for cryopreservation (after preculturing, loading, followed by dehydration solution A5 or B5), intercellular spaces had become distinct, and within cells, the cytoplasms had become denser and week plasmolyses had appeared. The cell plasmolyses were much more apparent and we measured the degree of plasmolysis by calculating, the area of cell/the area of cytoplasm. The value of plasmolysis degree was the highest in the combination of preculture, loading solution C4, and dehydration solution A5, 1.97. Because the highest regeneration rates appeared in the treatment of A5 for 20 min, we could assume that the optimal degree of plasmolysis for cryopreservation might be around 1.97. The changes in cell structure during cryopreservation might be a useful basis for the development of a proper long-term preservation method for madder germplasms.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제12권
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• pp.9-17
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• 2011

본고는 적색계 염재인 소목, 꼭두서니, 홍화, 자초로 염색한 직물편에 대한 비파괴 자외 가시광 분광분석 및 3차원 형광 분광 분석 내용으로 고대 직물에 염색된 염료 규명을 위한 기초 자료 구축을 위함이다. 직물이나 매염제의 종류에 따라 각 분석 결과에 영향을 주는지 여부를 확인하기 위하여 직물 2 종류(면과 견)와 매염 방법 3 가지(무매염, 백반, 철)로 염색한 직물시편을 제작하였다. 염색 직물편에 대한 자외-가시 분광반사 스펙트럼 결과 소목, 꼭두서니, 자초로 염색한 경우 직물의 종류에 관계없이 매염제에 따른 차이를 보였다. 또한 홍화는 직물 및 매염제에 따른 차이가 없었다. 3차원 형광 스펙트럼 측정결과 소목은 매염제에 따른 차이를 보이며 꼭두서니의 경우 직물에 따른 차이를 보였고, 홍화의 경우 직물과 매염제 관계없이 고유한 형광스펙트럼으로 나타났으며, 자초의 경우 형광스펙트럼이 나타나지 않았다.