• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.50-62
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• 1989

Shoreline change of Haeundae beach was predicted by one-line model considering interaction of seawalls and longshore variation of wave height . Wave deformation was calculated by combined wave refraction-diffraction model . In this shoreline change model, empirical constants and offshore sediment transport rate are treated as calibration parameters, and the calculated results are in good agreement with the observed data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.127-138
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• 1994

미국 Florida주 North Redington 해변의 양빈계획(Beach Nourishment Project)을 정기적으로 측정함으로써 종방향토사이동과정(Longshore Sediment Transport Process)을 조사하였다. 본 계획은 약 2.6km 해변에 약 405,000$m^3$의 모래로 이루어졌으며 2년에 걸쳐 26개의 profile을 계측하였고 파고, 파향 그리고 시료 채취를 포함하고 있다. 본 연구는 측정된 자료를 분석함으로써 최적의 토사이동계수와 그에 상응하는 상대오차를 구하는데 주된 목적이 있다. 적용된 토사이동공식은 1) Komar-Inman공식, 2) Dean 공식(Radiation Stress, $S_{xy}$의 변형식), 3) Kamphuis 공식 등이다. 상기 3가지 공식은 대동소이 ($\pm$4%)의 결과를 나타내어 어느 공식이 더 적합한지 우열을 가늠하기 어려웠다. 횡방향토사이동량을 고려한 상세모델과 고려하지 않은 단순모델의 두 가지 형태로 적용되었으며 일반설계를 위한 Model(단순모델)은 실측치보다 다소 큰 값을 보여준다.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.436-441
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• 2020

Wave field changes resulting from artificial coastal structures constructed in coastal zones have emerged as a major cause of beach erosion, among other factors. The rates of erosion along the eastern coast of Korea have varied mainly owing to the construction of various ports and coastal structures; however, impact assessments of these structures on beach erosion have not been appropriately conducted. Thus, in this study, a methodology to assess the impact of erosion owing to the construction of artificial structures has been proposed, for which a parabolic bay shape equation is used in determining the shoreline angle deformation caused by the structures. Assuming that the conditions of sediment or waves have similar values in most coastal areas, a primary variable impacting coastal sediment transport is the deformation of an equilibrium shoreline relative to the existing beach. Therefore, the angle rotation deforming the equilibrium of a shoreline can be the criterion for evaluating beach erosion incurred through the construction of artificial structures. The evaluation criteria are classified into three levels: safety, caution, and danger. If the angle rotation of the equilibrium shoreline is 0.1° or less, the beach distance was considered to be safe in the present study; however, if this angle is 0.35° or higher, the beach distance is considered to be in a state of danger. Furthermore, in this study, the distance affected by beach erosion is calculated in areas of the eastern coast where artificial structures, mainly including ports and power plants, were constructed; thereafter, an impact assessment of the beach erosion around these areas was conducted. Using a proposed methodology, Gungchon Port was evaluated with caution, whereas Donghae Port, Sokcho Port, and Samcheok LNG were evaluated as being in a state of danger.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.101-114
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• 2019

In this study, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach, which is suffering from erosion problem. We obtain the basic equation (One Line Model for shoreline) for the numerical simulation by assuming that the amount of shoreline retreat or advance is balanced by the net influx of longshore and cross-shore sediment into the unit discretized shoreline segment. In doing so, the energy flux model for the longshore sediment transport rate is also evoked. For the case of cross sediment transport, the modified Bailard's model (1981) by Cho and Kim (2019) is utilized. At each time step of the numerical simulation, we adjust a closure depth according to pertinent wave conditions based on the Hallermeier's analytical model (1978) having its roots on the Shield's parameter. Numerical results show that from 2017.4.26 to 2017.10.15 during which swells are prevailing, a shoreline advances due to the sustained supply of cross-shore sediment. It is also shown that a shoreline temporarily retreats due to the erosion by the yearly highest waves sequentially occurring from mid-October to the end of October, and is followed by gradual recovery of shoreline as high waves subdue and swells prevail. It is worth mentioning that great yearly circulation of shoreline completes when a shoreline retreats due to the erosion by the higher waves occurring from mid-March to the end of March. The great yearly circulation of shoreline mentioned above can also be found in the measured locations of shoreline on 2017.4.5, 2017.9.7, 2017.11.7, 2018.3.14. However, numerically simulated amount of shoreline retreat or advance is more significant than the physically measured one, and it should be noted that these discrepancies become more substantial for the case of RUN II where a closure depth is sustained to be as in the most morphology models like the Genesis (Hanson and Kraus, 1989).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.54-64
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• 1991

To accurately estimate the rate of sediment transport in shallow water bodies, it is necessary to investigate the irregular waves transformation characteristics and nearshore currents produced by random sea waves. Most of studies on numerical models for nearshore currents are based on the theory of monocromatic waves and thus, very few nearshore models take into account the effect of irregularities in the hight, period and directional spreading of incident waves. The numerical simulation model for nearshore currents used in this paper considers the effect of irregularities of incident waves, based on Individual Wave Analysis. The computational results are compared and shown in a reasionable agreement with the experimental data.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.203-210
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• 2018

It is generally known that submerged breakwaters can reduce the incoming wave energy without disturbing the beach scenery. However, a submerged breakwater is also able to cause a setup of the sea level in the protected area which is also called as water piling-up. Since the piling-up can result in longshore currents, sediment transports, and unexpected beach erosion, understanding about the piling-up process is required prior to designing the nearshore structures. In this study, the water piling-up behind a submerged breakwater is assessed in the time of storm events. For the study area, Anmok beach in Gyeonso-dong, Gangwon-do is selected. 1-year, 5-year, 10-year, and 50-year return-values were derived from Peaks-Over-Threshold(POT) method and those are applied as offshore boundary conditions for the numerical simulation. The numerical results of the piling-up were assessed with regard to the wave steepness and the height of the submerged breakwater. With increase of both significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater, the piling-up parameter is also increased which can lead to erosion of dry beach behind the structure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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• v.4 no.3 s.14
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• pp.1-8
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• 2004

In this study, the change of the current in the coastal zone before and after the construction of Jeju new harbor was predicted by using the numerical model, which uses Hardy-Cross method. The numerical model was carried out for the present state, before the construction, and the state after the construction, and for the wave direction the NNW direction for winter and NE direction for summer were tested so that the seasonal change may be considered. The computation result shows that a large amount of the wave induced current was occurred when there were high waves coming in from NNW direction before and after the construction. Also, before the construction a longshore current occurred moving from the west to the east at the new harbor construction site so that it formed a rip current in the Hwabuk-dong front sea. And also, after the construction, the tip current produced changed into nearshore circulating current and a small circulating current appeared at the harbor entrance. On the other hand, at Samyang 4each, which is 3.0km away from the new harbor in the NE direction, shows that there was a longshore current occurred from the west to the east, which is in the opposite direction the new harbor, and the effect on the new harbor by sediment transport at Samyang beach is thought to be very small.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.591-598
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• 2015

A hydraulic characteristics in the surf zone such as wave breaking points, wave set-down, wave set-up, wave-induced currents and run-up heights are studied using the SWASH model during Typhoon NAKRI(1412) in Haeundae Beach. Incident wave conditions is obtained from one-hourly observed wave data by KHOA and irregular wave by JONSWAP spectrum is given as an open boundary condition in the model. A Wave-induced current patterns by the SWASH model is compared with the observed currents and sediment flux patterns in that areas, the calculated maximum wave run-up heights in the model is compared with the video monitoring data, the empirical formula by Stockdon et al. and Mase. A dominant longshore currents toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident wave direction and the geographical features and some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. The maximum wave run-up height(1.15 m) by the SWASH model shows a similar pattern with the video monitoring data(1.26 m) and the magnitude shows a similar result(1.33m) by Stockdon et al.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.142-149
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• 2019

In this study, the past erosion history and current status in the CHUNG-UI beach of Eulwang-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon-Si, South Korea were investigated and analyzed the wave with wave-induced current to investigate the causes of coastal erosion. As a result, the significant wave height ($H_{1/3}$) was in the range of 0.07~1.57 m and the mean value was 0.21 m. The maximum wave height ($H_{max}$) was in the range of 0.02-4.76m and the mean value was 0.27m. The vertical wave height and cycles were estimated through numerical model experiments of wave transformation. The 50-year frequency design wave height ranged from 0.82m to 3.75m. As a result of the experiment of wave-induced current, wave-induced current in the CHUNG-UI beach was decreased after the installation of the Detached breakwater and the Jetty. On the other hand, when the crest elevation was increased up to 5 m, there was no significant change, but when the crest elevation was increased to 8m, strong wave-induced current occurred around the submerged breakwaters due to lowered depth of water. In addition, the main erosion of the CHUNG-UI beach is due to the intensive invasion of the wave characteristics coming from the outer sea into the white sandy beach. The deformation of the wave centered on the front of the sandy beach caused additional longshore currents flowing parallel to the sandy beach and rip currents in the transverse direction, thus confirming that the longshore sediment was moved out of the front and out of the sea. The results of this study can be used as preliminary data for the recovery of the sand and the selection of efficient erosion prevention facilities.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.307-320
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• 2021

Udo Rhodolith Beach is a small-scale, mixed sand-and-gravel beach embayed on the N-S trending rocky coast of Udo, Jeju Island, South Korea. This study analyzes the short-term topographic changes of the beach during the extreme storm conditions of four typhoons from 2016 to 2020: Chaba (2016), Soulik (2018), Lingling (2019), and Maysak (2020). The analysis uses the topographic data of terrestrial LiDAR scanning and drone photogrammetry, aided by weather and oceanographic datasets of wind, wave, current and tide. The analysis suggests two contrasting features of alongshore topographic change depending on the typhoon pathway, although the intensity and duration of the storm conditions differed in each case. During the Soulik and Lingling events, which moved northward following the western sea of the Jeju Island, the northern part of the beach accreted while the southern part eroded. In contrast, the Chaba and Maysak events passed over the eastern sea of Jeju Island. The central part of the beach was then significantly eroded while sediments accumulated mainly at the northern and southern ends of the beach. Based on the wave and current measurements in the nearshore zone and computer simulations of the wave field, it was inferred that the observed topographic change of the beach after the storm events is related to the directions of the wind-driven current and wave propagation in the nearshore zone. The dominant direction of water movement was southeastward and northeastward when the typhoon pathway lay to the east or west of Jeju Island, respectively. As these enhanced waves and currents approached obliquely to the N-S trending coastline, the beach sediments were reworked and transported southward or northward mainly by longshore currents, which likely acts as a major control mechanism regarding alongshore topographic change with respect to Udo Rhodolith Beach. In contrast to the topographic change, the subaerial volume of the beach overall increased after all storms except for Maysak. The volume increase was attributed to the enhanced transport of onshore sediment under the combined effect of storm-induced long periodic waves and a strong residual component of the near-bottom current. In the Maysak event, the raised sea level during the spring tide probably enhanced the backshore erosion by storm waves, eventually causing sediment loss to the inland area.