• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.130-139
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• 2009

This study was conducted to reproduce the Leg of Mutton Sleeve pattern of the ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Nineteen Leg of Mutton Sleeve patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. Nineteen Leg of Mutton Sleeve patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were classified into three groups(S1~S3) by the pattern pieces and the bend of the lower part of the elbow line. The S1 was one-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S1 was not bent. The gathers volume of sleeve cap of S1 was smaller than S2 and S3. The S2 was one-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S2 was bent. The S2 pattern had typical characteristics of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve that the gathers volume of sleeve cap was large and the lower part of elbow line was tight. The S3 was two-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S3 was bent. The gathers volume of sleeve cap of S3 was similar with S2. The study patterns of three groups of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve which had the characteristics and the silhouette of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve pattern of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern of three groups of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve were evaluated to have the silhouette of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.

• Proceedings of the Computational Structural Engineering Institute Conference
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• 2000.04b
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• pp.357-364
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• 2000

The three main processes involved in the design of stressed membrane surface are surface form-finding, stress analysis and cutting pattern generation. The last process, cutting pattern generation, is considered as a very important procedure in the aspect of the practical design for the fabric membrane surface. In this paper, The cutting pattern generation technique using the geodesic line algorithms is first introduced. And the numerical examples resulting from this technique are presented. Cable elements are used for the approximating membrane surface and two kinds of model, square line and central line model, are used in pattern generation. Finally, a number of different cutting pattern generation for the same membrane surface is carried out and the numerical results are compared each

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.9
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• pp.137-146
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• 2008

This study was conducted in order to spread out lower body 3D scan data of men in their twenties. The aim was to achieve slacks pattern with ease allowance through comparison with existing flat patterns. For conversion of 3D scan data into 20 pattern, reference lines were established by using Rapid Foam in 3D shape analysis software. 2C-AN program and Yuka CAD were used to convert 20 pattern earned with straight posture of 3D scan data into slacks pattern by using Triangle Simplification & Runge-Kutta Method. In order to achieve this we needed to set a line 9cm below the hip line, to array vertex of each block to crease line while maintaining the horizontal line. And then we needed to set ease allowance in back crotch and to set waist circumference or hip circumference ease allowance in side seam of slacks. Results showed that long front crotch length can be achieved if 3D scan data is compared with 20 existing flat pattern. Slacks pattern that raise front crotch by about 1.5cm compared to back crotch and also possess ease allowance in back crotch area are great in appearance evaluation.

• Journal of Electrical Engineering and Technology
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.330-336
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• 2009

This paper proposes an on-line voltage management and control solution for a distribution system which can improve the efficiency and accuracy of existing off-line work by collecting customer voltage on-line as well as the voltage compensation capability of the existing ULTC (Under Load Tap Changer) operation and control strategy by controlling the ULTC tap based on pattern clustering and recognition. The proposed solution consists of an ADVMD (Advanced Digital Voltage Management Device), a VMS (Voltage Management Solution) and an OLDUC (On-Line Digital ULTC Controller). An on-line voltage management emulator based on multi-thread programming and the shared memory method is developed to emulate on-line voltage management and digital ULTC control methodology based on the on-line collection of the customer's voltage. In addition, using this emulator, the effectiveness of the proposed pattern clustering and recognition based ULTC control strategy is proven for the worst voltage environments for three days.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.178-194
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• 2011

Due to the population growth of the old aged, Korea is also entering into an aging society. But a research on the pattern design to the old aged is much to be desired. The purpose of this research is to design skirt pattern fitted for each body type by categorizing the lower body type of the old aged woman. For the way of research, categorized the body type by using the female measuring size from the 65 years old to 99 years old which has been measured by the Korean body size research as an assay data, and base on this data, a suitable skirt pattern for each body type of the old aged woman was designed by practicing the exterior evaluation. The data analysis was done with the statistical treatment in SPSS 12.0, and the results are as follows. The lower body type of the old aged woman were divided into the type 1. The circumference article is the biggest compared to the height article regarding to the lower body type of the old aged woman. The type 2. The height article and the circumference and thickness articles are the poorest. The type 3. The height article is the biggest and the hip width and calf circumference are thicker than the waist width. The type 4. The height article is the lowest and the waist width is thicker instead the hip and leg are thinner. In type 1, The pattern was modified by increasing 1cm a length of the dart and raising up 1.2cm at the cross point between side line and waist line. In type 2, the basic pattern was used, and in type 3, using the outline of the basic pattern however, increased 1cm a length of the dart and modified the amounts of dart by handling the art in curve, and modified the waist line to be more three-dimensional curves by raising up 1 cm at the cross point between waist line and side line and falling down 0.5cm at the cross point between the back center line and the waist line. In type 4, modified the amounts of front and back dart to 1.25cm, and raised up 0.8cm at the cross point between side line and waist line, and modified the waist line and the side seam line in a gentle curve by reducing circumference of the skirt tail to 1cm from the side seam line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.11
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• pp.1536-1543
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• 2004

Garment is made by a 2D pattern and should be fitted to a human body which has 3D characteristics. Therefore, to design a pattern more effectively, the use of 3D information of a human body and the investigation of relationship between the 3D garment and 2D pattern are necessary. In this work, ruled surface method was used to reflect the 3D information of a human body for a pattern design. The images of the brassiere line on the woman's dress form were captured by phase-shifting projection moire system and the 3D information on the design line was obtained. 2D patterns on the various parts of the brassiere were developed directly from the 3D data by the ruled surface method. In addition, design line, the area and the amount of dart were quantified. And then we verify the appropriateness of the ruled surface method to the 2D pattern development by measuring the distribution of the space between women's figure and segmented clothing item. It was found that the ruled surface method is useful to transform the 3D design line to the 2D pattern, if we followed the steps suggested in this paper.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1049-1060
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to develop a shirt pattern that enhances the functionality of golf swing motions. The pattern was made with 3D body surface shape data that changed according to dynamic golf postures. The data were collected from the golf swing motions. The 3D body surface data in golf swing postures piled up on the 3D surface data in a static posture. The results showed that the surface shape data changed more in the address, back swing, and finish postures than the other swing postures. The experimental pattern was developed with 3D surface scan data in those three golf swing motions. The pattern had raglan sleeves and the front-bodied piece was divided into two pieces with a princess line, which comes from armscye line of the address posture. The back bodice piece was divided into three pieces with a yoke line and a back princess line. The yoke line was made by back shoulder shape in the back swing posture. The level of comfort of the experimental garment and commercial golf shirts was evaluated by 38 women golfers. The experimental garment pattern was evaluated to be more comfortable in golf swing postures than commercial golf shirts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.741-751
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• 2009

In order to design and develop the various silhouette of pants pattern for standardized pants patterns, this study is to classify the pants style by the silhouette and to characterize each pants pattern which are classified. Recent 37 ready-made pants patterns of various style were collected in order to analyze their silhouette from April to July 2007. Measurement of each region of the pants pattern were compared and analysed. After analyse the standard deviation, coefficient of variance, minimum, maximum, range about the measurement of each region of the pants pattern, major pattern design factors were extracted. Five major factors are the angle of center front line and center back line, the crotch extension, the position of center back line against center front line, the curvature of center back line, and amount of waist dart. As a result, pants style were grouped as the culottes, formal, basic and tight style after considering the extracted design factors, and analysing correlation, degree of dispersion of the measurement by part. As the silhouette of pants classification from culotte to tight, the fits are closer to the figure, crotch depth increases, crotch extensions are shorter, and angle of the center back increases. The shape of the connected front and back center lines is U-shape for culotte and is closer to V-shape as the silhouette becomes tight.

• Proceeding of KASS Symposium
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• 2005.05a
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• pp.125-132
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• 2005

Membrane structures, a kind of lightweight soft structural system, are used for spatial structures. The material property of the membrane has strong axial stiffness, but little bending stiffness. The design procedure of membrane structures are needed to do shape finding, stress-deformation analysis and cutting pattern generation. In shape finding, membrane structures are unstable structures initially. These soft structures need to be introduced initial stresses because of its initial unstable state, and it happens large deformation phenomenon. And also there are highly varied in their size, curvature and material stiffness. So, the approximation inherent in cutting pattern generation methods is quite different. Therefore, in this study, to find the structural shape after large deformation caused by Initial stress, we need the shape analysis considering geometric nonlinear ten And the geodesic line on surface of initial equilibrium shape and the cutting pattern generation using the geodesic line is introduced.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.159-172
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to investigate the slacks pattern making on the movement -fitness of the hip region. The experimental items were divided into the 5 lower limb movements(M1-M5) and the 12 revision pattern constructions of slacks. This study was done by clothing pressure test sensory evaluation test and the difference shape-transformation of wearing-slacks. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows: First by the clothing pressure tested by lower limb movements the clothing pressure score of the rabbit leap movement(M3) was the highest of all lower limb movements and the order of it in the another movement was the sit on knee(M4) the sit on chair(M2) the noble sitting(M5) from the highest to the lowest. And in comparision of clothing pressure tested by revision pattern to cover the extend of crotch-length 20。 inclined back-line construction method (CA4) showed the lowest. And in comparision of clothing pressure tested by revision pattern to cover the extend of crotch-length 20。 inclined back-line construction method (CA4) showed the lowest. And also for a role to cover hip circumference extendign CC4(1/5 hip.1cm longrightarrow linked back -line) method showed the lowest. Second by the sensory evaluation test based on the movement and revision patterns it was found that the functional factor score of the rabbit leap movement was the lowest in all movement however the score of revision patterns were higher than basic pattern. Third by the test to show difference in the shape-transformation of wearing-slacks on chair(M2) also need to be analyzed. The ration of the shape-transformation of the knee region showed the least value in the increased patterns of inclined angle of back-line(CA) and the differential methods of back-line inclined pattern making. But that of the hem-line did not show remarkable difference.