• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.127-138
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• 2011

The style which is created by grafting the characteristics of goth onto haute couture designer works is called 'Haute goth'. The purpose of this study is to analyze the modem Goth fashion style based on Goth's historical background and characteristics. Also, I investigated the aesthetic characteristics of haute goth style appeared from the work of haute couture designers. Goth means a member of East Germanic people who invaded and settled in the Roman Empire from the 3rd to the 5th century. Goth style had been developed to the medieval European architecture style or the literature style of 18th~19th centuries and later it was reappeared in the gothic band in the late 20th century. Goth fashion shows the characteristics of the medieval times and Victorian times mixed with punk and fetish style. Goth fashion is expressed with the images of fear, darkness, mystique, dandy and eroticism. 'Dark esthetics' is realized through black clothes, pale complexion and silver accessories. Many designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano designed 'haute goth fashion' in various ways. The characteristics of 'haute goth' can be summarized in four things. It creates new images, seeks various changes and pursuits newness. It upgrades a street look style gothic fashion to a luxury high fashion and the creative design with artistic value. It also shows an experimental sprit by using a unique shapes, silhouettes, different materials and extreme images or creating new combination through the mismatch of opposite objects or emotions. Although it is rooted in the past because of the influences by late medieval times, Victorian times and Edwardian times, it displays enough of future-oriented historicism designs.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.766-777
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• 2012

The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.

• Korean Journal of Clinical Laboratory Science
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.401-410
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• 2016

Since the late 19th century, scientific logic and techniques have been used extensively in the field of clinical pathology, including many laboratory tests utilizing various apparatuses and instruments. Among the techniques to measure hemoglobin, the visual color comparison method was most popular around this time; the specific gravity method and gasometric method were not widely adopted. Instruments that use the visual color comparison method include Gowers' hemoglobinometer, von Fleischl's hemoglobinometer, Dare's hemoglobinometer, Oliver's hemoglobinometer, Haden-Hausser hemoglobinometer, and Spencer Hb meter. Initially, the visual color comparison methods were used to diluate and hemolyze blood with distilled water and then to measure its color. Later, these methods were further developed to measure hemoglobin without dilution, and improved with the formation of acid or alkaline hematin ensuring the stability of color development. Hammerschlag's method as well as the Schmaltz and Peiper's methods were based on specific gravity measurement, but they were not widely used. The gasometric method used the Van Slyke gasometer, indirectly measuring the hemoglobin concentration. This method provides the most accurate results. This survey examined the characteristics and limitations of hemoglobinometers and methods used to measure hemoglobin from the late 19th century to the early-and mid-20th century. Moreover, this study aims to improve the understanding and applicability of the current methods and emerging technologies used in measuring hemoglobin. It is also expected that this investigation is the starting point to promote awareness of the need to organize historical data for a variety of historical relics of the diagnostic laboratory tests.

• Journal of Sasang Constitutional Medicine
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.65-78
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• 2019

Objectives This study aims to investigate how the Korean disease-related vocabulary is established or changed when it is translated into French or English. Through this, we examine changes in the meaning of diseases and the ecosystem of disease-related vocabulary in transition period of $19^{th}$ to $20^{th}$ century. Methods Korean disease-related vocabulary are extracted from a total of 148,000 Korean headwords included in our corpus of three bilingual dictionaries. Among them, the scope of analyisis is limited to group of vocabularies that include a high frequency words, disease(病) and symptom(症). Results The first type of change is the emergence of a neologism. In this case, coexistence of existing vocabulary and new words is observed. The second change is the appearance of loan words written in Hangul. The third is the case where the interpretation of meaning is changed while maintaining the word form. Finally, the fourth change is that the orthographic variants are displayed while maintaining the meaning of the existing vocabulary. Discussion Disease-related vocabulary increased greatly between 1897 and 1931. The increasing factor of vocabulary was the emergence of coined words, compound words and the influx of foreign words. The Korean language and the Western language made a new lexical form in order to introduce a new unknown concept to the Korean. We could also confirm that the way in which English word expanded its semantic field by modifying the way of representing the meaning of Korean Disease-related vocabulary.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.28-36
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• 2005

The theme of modern architecture was various expression of dynamism and the flow of space. It was because that the space become the main theme of architecture since the late 19th century, and the space was changed from the 3rd dimension into the 4th dimensional space-time continuum. Though many avant-garde artists in the early 20th century did not understand the theory of relativity, they became conscious of the concept of space-time continuum, and tried to express the movement as the duration in time which Bergson defined. Many architects in the first machine age conceived the movement of architecture, and understand it as the dynamism of the mass and in the space. But especially, Sant'Elia and Hilberseimer expressed it as the flow of various force and vector In the metropolis as entire system. And Some architects conceived it as real movement of the building and expressed it as the rotary motion of building, movable partition and furniture, mobile prefabricated building. This study analyzed the expression of movement in architecture in the first machine age.

• Journal of the Korean housing association
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.11-24
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• 2015

There have not been many debates on the subject of Korean architecture during the transformative period of Gae Wha Gi (開化期: Enlightenment Period of Korea), when Western-style buildings first appeared in Seoul. This study begins by finding and recording those buildings in Seoul that show the gradual adoption and appropriation of Western architectural elements at the turn of the 20th century. By exploring the confluence of two different architectural styles, this paper attempts to look carefully at the hybrid conditions that resulted from encounters between the Koreans and the Westerners in the late 19th and early 20th century. Beginning with discovering the first products of the Western architectural influence in Seoul, this study explores the uneasy co-existence between the traditional Korean architectural style, and the Western architectural style. This co-existence ultimately bred new building techniques, and interior layouts; the appearance of these hybrid buildings illustrate the gradual transition from the traditional way, in which users modified, combined and appropriated various elements from both styles. Analyzing historical documents and photos, this study tries to capture a detailed image of the period when the influence of the Western architecture had an unavoidable impact and brought change to the traditional architecture of Korea.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.206-225
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• 2019

This paper examines the trade and development aspects of glass mirrors through the literature records of the Joseon Dynasty, and studies the characteristics of existing glass mirror crafts by referring to the terms and types shown in the literature. The glass mirror in the records had called western mirrors(西洋鏡, 洋鏡), glass mirrors(玻璃鏡, 玻瓈鏡), stone mirrors(石鏡), etc. Glass mirrors were imported mainly through trade with Russia and the Qing Dynasty since the 17th century and were banned from importation in the late Joseon Dynasty. These mirrors were something new that caused a great stirring in Joseon society in the 18th century, and in the 19th century, it grew larger as a commodity needed for everyday life, especially with trade with Japan. At that time, glass mirrors were used for various purposes, such as installing large glass at a store, which were not the standard mirror usage of confirming one's appearance. These mirrors surprised Koreans in Joseon who experienced them at Yanjing Liulichang(燕京 琉璃廠) in the 18th and 19th centuries. As a result, the demand for glass mirrors rapidly increased and quickly surpassed that of bronze mirrors. Consequentially, new crafts using glass mirrors instead of bronze mirrors in Joseon began to be produced and used after the 18th century. In particular, integrated flat boards of glass mirrors were developed as crafts used indoors. It was convenient to use the hair comb box, a long-time presence in Joseon society, with the bronze mirror. This kind of mirror remained apparent in various genre paintings, including the Taepyeong Seongsido(太平城市圖, 'A Thriving City in a Peaceful Era') collected the National Museum of Korea which reflect its populism of the times. Also, the Mirror Stand(鏡臺) used in the Qing Period was produced in Joseon, but there was a difference in the way of making the drawers and box shapes between two nations. On the other hand, the Face Mirror(面鏡) was made to look at the face. Various crafts made with the aesthetic sense of Joseon, such as the ox horn inlaying craft technique, were produced with auspicious designs. In the 19th century, glass mirrors were imported from European countries, such as France, Denmark, the Netherlands, and the United Kingdom, however after the end of the 19th century Japanese crafts were popular. Glass mirrors, which were popular in the Meiji and Taisho eras of Japan, were imported and also the Mirror Screen(鏡屛) using large glass mirrors were used. In particular, the mirror screen had developed wood furniture since the previous time, which were used for banquets and large spaces, such as the drawing room, and were imported from China and Japan. In addition, the western architectural effect of attaching a mirror to the wall was also attempted to adjust the brightness of the space and introduce another image and scenery in the mirror. This was done at Deoksugung Palace's Seokjojeon.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.430-448
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• 2011

This study analyzes the stereotyped femininity with a focus on body codes, which has been continuously expressed in fashion illustrations from the late $19^{th}$ century to the year 2010, and examines the changes in its meaning. Stereotyped femininity was reorganized by the changes in female sex role effected by social changes, as well as by the body discourse and feminism in the late $20^{th}$ century, These socio-cultural backgrounds led to the change in the meaning of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. The stereotyped women in fashion illustrations are characterized by gender-oriented body, and the typical image of women was reproduced with the marks of poses and looks that feature passiveness and subordination. Then, the gender-oriented body since 1990's shifted to active meaning that positively revealed sexual desire. The space positioned by women is also the symbol of gender. In line with changes over time, the backgrounds in fashion illustrations have changed from private space such as home and nature to public space such as city, which reflects diversification and expansion of space for women. This study has identified the changes in meaning, based on the analysis of the characteristics of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. Above all, women who were objectified as a subject by dominant discourse have established the concept of active body as an entity. In addition, the symbol of typical femininity is "slim" and "beauty", which reflects the change from the emphasis on childbirth-related femininity to self-control and conquer. On the other hand, the typical features expressed through body have reproduced dichotomous structure, but the emergence of body and background deviated from gender has reorganized the symbolic order of gender.

• Journal of Korean Medical classics
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.185-209
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• 2017

Objectives : The objective of this paper is to review the healing processes employed in the traditional age and discover the unique features found in the Korean Medicine through categorizing and analyzing the distribution of patients, and the aspects and results of treatments as recorded in Gyeongbosinpyeon, a historical text thought to have been authored by a regional doctor active in Joseon during the mid- to late-19th century. Methods : A table is created to view all of the total of 141 medical records introduced in the Gyeongbosinpyeon, and 7 categories were created to each contain 2 to 3 medical records that have special images. The paper provides their translation texts along with the original texts, and analyzed their medical and social significances by comparing each medical record. Results : The clinical competence displayed by the doctor who had worked in Joseon during the 19th century was surprisingly high, and it seems its values are worthy of dissemination when compared with Yeogsimanpil that has been introduced to the world. There is a great significance in how the principle of holistic treatments, the fundamental aspect of Joseon's medical study, was adhered. Additionally, the parts that show the historical text's author's medical activities and their unique characteristics are also worthy of attention. Conclusions : Korean medicine possesses a remarkable text called Donguibogam, but clinical behaviors' successes are not guaranteed solely with textual knowledge. It can be witnessed that such texts of authority and such medical records that have recorded actual activities complement each other in order to improve the quality of Joseon's study of medicine.

• The Korean Journal of Food And Nutrition
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.678-686
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate changes in the cooking process of red beans used to prepare Bab (cooked rice) in cooking books published from late 19th century to the present. There are 3 different types of Bab that use red beans; Jungdeungbab, Patbab and Patsura, and cooking process vary between different cooking books. For making Jungdeungbab, one method is to cook the red beans in the water first, and then only the water, after draining the cooked red beans, is used to cook rice. The other method is to smash the cooked red beans and collect the water that passes through the smashed red beans to cook the rice. For Patbab, 2 cooking methods were found. One is to cook the whole red beans first and then to add them to the rice for cooking. Another method is to break the red beans into two pieces and mix them with rice and cook them together. Patsura is the red bean used to prepare the Bab offered to Kings during the Chosun dynasty(1392~1910). The cooking process of Patsura is similar to both Jundeungbab and Patbab. In Ijogungjeongyoritonggo(1957), the cooking method of Patsura is similar to that of Patbab; breaking red beans into two pieces and then mixing them with rice and cooking them together. Another method, which is similar to Jungdeungbab, is found in Ijogungjeongyoritonggo(1957) and Hangukyoribaekguasajeon(1976). In Ijogungjeongyoritonggo(1957), the cooking method is to cook the red beans first and then squeeze them after putting them into a sack and then using the extract to cook rice. In Hangukyoribaekguasajeon(1976), the red bean is prepared by first cooking red beans in water, and then only the water, after draining the cooked red bean, is used to cook rice. In further studies, the cooking procedures used in the previous period of the late 19th century should be examined.