• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.127-138
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• 2011

The style which is created by grafting the characteristics of goth onto haute couture designer works is called 'Haute goth'. The purpose of this study is to analyze the modem Goth fashion style based on Goth's historical background and characteristics. Also, I investigated the aesthetic characteristics of haute goth style appeared from the work of haute couture designers. Goth means a member of East Germanic people who invaded and settled in the Roman Empire from the 3rd to the 5th century. Goth style had been developed to the medieval European architecture style or the literature style of 18th~19th centuries and later it was reappeared in the gothic band in the late 20th century. Goth fashion shows the characteristics of the medieval times and Victorian times mixed with punk and fetish style. Goth fashion is expressed with the images of fear, darkness, mystique, dandy and eroticism. 'Dark esthetics' is realized through black clothes, pale complexion and silver accessories. Many designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano designed 'haute goth fashion' in various ways. The characteristics of 'haute goth' can be summarized in four things. It creates new images, seeks various changes and pursuits newness. It upgrades a street look style gothic fashion to a luxury high fashion and the creative design with artistic value. It also shows an experimental sprit by using a unique shapes, silhouettes, different materials and extreme images or creating new combination through the mismatch of opposite objects or emotions. Although it is rooted in the past because of the influences by late medieval times, Victorian times and Edwardian times, it displays enough of future-oriented historicism designs.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.766-777
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• 2012

The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.

• 대한임상검사과학회지
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• 제48권4호
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• pp.401-410
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• 2016

19세기 후반부터 과학적 논리와 기술이 임상병리학 분야에 적극적으로 활용되기 시작하였다. 이로 인해 많은 검사들이 도구와 기기를 이용하기 시작하였다. 이 때 등장한 혈색소 측정법 중에서 육안색조비교법이 일반적으로 사용되었고, 비중측정법과 가스정량법은 활용도가 낮았다. 육안색조비교법을 적용한 기기로는 Gowers' hemoglobinometer, von Fleischl's hemoglobinometer, Dare's hemoglobinometer, Oliver's hemoglobinometer 그리고 Haden-Hausser hemoglobinometer, Spencer Hb meter 등이 있다. 육안색조비색법은 초기에 혈액을 증류수를 이용하여 희석하고 용혈시킨 후 색조를 측정하는 방법을 활용하였지만, 이후 측정방법을 개선하면서 혈액을 희석없이 측정하거나 발색의 안전성을 위해 acid 혹은 alkaline hematin을 형성시키는 방법들로 발전하였다. 비중을 이용한 측정법으로 Hammerschlag method와 Schmaltz and Peiper's method가 활용되었지만 대중적으로 사용되지는 않았다. 가스정량법은 van Slyke 장치를 이용하여 간접적으로 헤모글로빈 농도를 추정하는 방법으로 가장 정확한 결과를 제공하였다. 본 조사에서는 19세기 후반과 20세기 초 중반까지 사용된 혈색소 측정기기와 측정법에 대한 특징 및 제한점 등을 알아 보았고, 이를 통하여 현재의 측정방법 및 새롭게 등장하는 기술들에 대한 이해와 응용력을 향상시키고자 하였다. 또한 이번 조사가 진단검사 기술분야의 다양한 역사유물에 대한 고찰뿐만 아니라 역사자료 체계화에 대한 필요성을 자각하는 시발점이 되기를 희망한다.

• 사상체질의학회지
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.65-78
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• 2019

Objectives This study aims to investigate how the Korean disease-related vocabulary is established or changed when it is translated into French or English. Through this, we examine changes in the meaning of diseases and the ecosystem of disease-related vocabulary in transition period of $19^{th}$ to $20^{th}$ century. Methods Korean disease-related vocabulary are extracted from a total of 148,000 Korean headwords included in our corpus of three bilingual dictionaries. Among them, the scope of analyisis is limited to group of vocabularies that include a high frequency words, disease(病) and symptom(症). Results The first type of change is the emergence of a neologism. In this case, coexistence of existing vocabulary and new words is observed. The second change is the appearance of loan words written in Hangul. The third is the case where the interpretation of meaning is changed while maintaining the word form. Finally, the fourth change is that the orthographic variants are displayed while maintaining the meaning of the existing vocabulary. Discussion Disease-related vocabulary increased greatly between 1897 and 1931. The increasing factor of vocabulary was the emergence of coined words, compound words and the influx of foreign words. The Korean language and the Western language made a new lexical form in order to introduce a new unknown concept to the Korean. We could also confirm that the way in which English word expanded its semantic field by modifying the way of representing the meaning of Korean Disease-related vocabulary.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.28-36
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• 2005

The theme of modern architecture was various expression of dynamism and the flow of space. It was because that the space become the main theme of architecture since the late 19th century, and the space was changed from the 3rd dimension into the 4th dimensional space-time continuum. Though many avant-garde artists in the early 20th century did not understand the theory of relativity, they became conscious of the concept of space-time continuum, and tried to express the movement as the duration in time which Bergson defined. Many architects in the first machine age conceived the movement of architecture, and understand it as the dynamism of the mass and in the space. But especially, Sant'Elia and Hilberseimer expressed it as the flow of various force and vector In the metropolis as entire system. And Some architects conceived it as real movement of the building and expressed it as the rotary motion of building, movable partition and furniture, mobile prefabricated building. This study analyzed the expression of movement in architecture in the first machine age.

• 한국주거학회논문집
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.11-24
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• 2015

There have not been many debates on the subject of Korean architecture during the transformative period of Gae Wha Gi (開化期: Enlightenment Period of Korea), when Western-style buildings first appeared in Seoul. This study begins by finding and recording those buildings in Seoul that show the gradual adoption and appropriation of Western architectural elements at the turn of the 20th century. By exploring the confluence of two different architectural styles, this paper attempts to look carefully at the hybrid conditions that resulted from encounters between the Koreans and the Westerners in the late 19th and early 20th century. Beginning with discovering the first products of the Western architectural influence in Seoul, this study explores the uneasy co-existence between the traditional Korean architectural style, and the Western architectural style. This co-existence ultimately bred new building techniques, and interior layouts; the appearance of these hybrid buildings illustrate the gradual transition from the traditional way, in which users modified, combined and appropriated various elements from both styles. Analyzing historical documents and photos, this study tries to capture a detailed image of the period when the influence of the Western architecture had an unavoidable impact and brought change to the traditional architecture of Korea.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제52권4호
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• pp.206-225
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• 2019

조선시대 문헌에서는 유리거울을 서양경(西洋鏡), 양경(洋鏡), 파리경(玻璃鏡), 파려경(玻瓈鏡), 석경(石鏡) 등 다양한 명칭으로 불렀고, 이를 경험하고 느꼈던 당시의 상황과 교역에 관한 자세한 내용을 살필 수 있다. 이를 통해 17세기 이후 청·러시아와의 교역을 중심으로 유리거울이 수입되었고, 조선 후기에 들어와 수입금지 품목에 포함되는 등 18세기에 들어와 사회적으로 큰 반향을 일으켰던 신문물로 확인되었다. 19세기에는 일상생활에 필요한 상품으로 더 크게 확대되었고, 특히 일본과의 교역이 눈에 띄게 성장하였다. 18~19세기의 유리거울은 개인이 용모를 확인하는 기본적인 용도에서 벗어나 상업적인 용도로까지 폭넓게 활용되었다. 당시 중국이나 일본을 방문했던 조선의 지식인들은 이에 관한 시각적 충격과 경험들을 글로 남겼고, 유리거울에 대한 유용함은 조선의 소비 욕구로 이어져 유리거울의 수입을 자극하였다. 이로 인해 18세기 이후 유리거울은 조선의 청동거울을 빠르게 대체하였고 유리거울을 이용한 새로운 공예품들이 제작 및 사용되기 시작하였다. 특히 실내에서 사용하는 공예품으로 일체식 유리경갑(一體式 琉璃鏡匣)을 개발해 전통적으로 사용해왔던 빗접과 함께 이용해 편리하였다. 당시 경갑의 인기는 국립중앙박물관 소장 <태평성시도(太平城市圖)>를 비롯해 조선시대 풍속화에서도 잘 볼 수 있다. 또한 중국의 기형으로 볼 수 있는 경대(鏡臺)도 조선에서 많이 제작했는데 서랍 개수와 크기, 상자 형태 등 다양한 방식으로 제작한 여러 형태의 경대를 살필 수 있다. 또한 휴대용의 작은 면경도 조선만의 미감으로 표현한 길상 문양, 장식 기법을 통해 품격 있는 공예품들로 제작되었다. 19세기에 들어와 프랑스, 네덜란드, 영국 등 유럽에서도 유리거울을 수입했지만 19세기 말 이후에는 일본식의 공예품들이 성행하였다. 일본 명치~대정시대에 유행했던 유리경대가 수입되었고 대형의 유리거울을 이용한 공예품들이 사용되었다. 이른 시기부터 있었던 경병의 경우 응접실처럼 큰 공간에 진설하거나 연회를 위해 중국·일본으로부터 수입했으며, 서양식으로 거울을 벽에 걸거나 부착해 공간의 밝기를 조절하고 외부의 풍경을 들여와 실내를 장식하는 방법이 도입되었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.430-448
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• 2011

This study analyzes the stereotyped femininity with a focus on body codes, which has been continuously expressed in fashion illustrations from the late $19^{th}$ century to the year 2010, and examines the changes in its meaning. Stereotyped femininity was reorganized by the changes in female sex role effected by social changes, as well as by the body discourse and feminism in the late $20^{th}$ century, These socio-cultural backgrounds led to the change in the meaning of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. The stereotyped women in fashion illustrations are characterized by gender-oriented body, and the typical image of women was reproduced with the marks of poses and looks that feature passiveness and subordination. Then, the gender-oriented body since 1990's shifted to active meaning that positively revealed sexual desire. The space positioned by women is also the symbol of gender. In line with changes over time, the backgrounds in fashion illustrations have changed from private space such as home and nature to public space such as city, which reflects diversification and expansion of space for women. This study has identified the changes in meaning, based on the analysis of the characteristics of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. Above all, women who were objectified as a subject by dominant discourse have established the concept of active body as an entity. In addition, the symbol of typical femininity is "slim" and "beauty", which reflects the change from the emphasis on childbirth-related femininity to self-control and conquer. On the other hand, the typical features expressed through body have reproduced dichotomous structure, but the emergence of body and background deviated from gender has reorganized the symbolic order of gender.

• 대한한의학원전학회지
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.185-209
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• 2017

Objectives : The objective of this paper is to review the healing processes employed in the traditional age and discover the unique features found in the Korean Medicine through categorizing and analyzing the distribution of patients, and the aspects and results of treatments as recorded in Gyeongbosinpyeon, a historical text thought to have been authored by a regional doctor active in Joseon during the mid- to late-19th century. Methods : A table is created to view all of the total of 141 medical records introduced in the Gyeongbosinpyeon, and 7 categories were created to each contain 2 to 3 medical records that have special images. The paper provides their translation texts along with the original texts, and analyzed their medical and social significances by comparing each medical record. Results : The clinical competence displayed by the doctor who had worked in Joseon during the 19th century was surprisingly high, and it seems its values are worthy of dissemination when compared with Yeogsimanpil that has been introduced to the world. There is a great significance in how the principle of holistic treatments, the fundamental aspect of Joseon's medical study, was adhered. Additionally, the parts that show the historical text's author's medical activities and their unique characteristics are also worthy of attention. Conclusions : Korean medicine possesses a remarkable text called Donguibogam, but clinical behaviors' successes are not guaranteed solely with textual knowledge. It can be witnessed that such texts of authority and such medical records that have recorded actual activities complement each other in order to improve the quality of Joseon's study of medicine.

• 한국식품영양학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.678-686
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate changes in the cooking process of red beans used to prepare Bab (cooked rice) in cooking books published from late 19th century to the present. There are 3 different types of Bab that use red beans; Jungdeungbab, Patbab and Patsura, and cooking process vary between different cooking books. For making Jungdeungbab, one method is to cook the red beans in the water first, and then only the water, after draining the cooked red beans, is used to cook rice. The other method is to smash the cooked red beans and collect the water that passes through the smashed red beans to cook the rice. For Patbab, 2 cooking methods were found. One is to cook the whole red beans first and then to add them to the rice for cooking. Another method is to break the red beans into two pieces and mix them with rice and cook them together. Patsura is the red bean used to prepare the Bab offered to Kings during the Chosun dynasty(1392~1910). The cooking process of Patsura is similar to both Jundeungbab and Patbab. In Ijogungjeongyoritonggo(1957), the cooking method of Patsura is similar to that of Patbab; breaking red beans into two pieces and then mixing them with rice and cooking them together. Another method, which is similar to Jungdeungbab, is found in Ijogungjeongyoritonggo(1957) and Hangukyoribaekguasajeon(1976). In Ijogungjeongyoritonggo(1957), the cooking method is to cook the red beans first and then squeeze them after putting them into a sack and then using the extract to cook rice. In Hangukyoribaekguasajeon(1976), the red bean is prepared by first cooking red beans in water, and then only the water, after draining the cooked red bean, is used to cook rice. In further studies, the cooking procedures used in the previous period of the late 19th century should be examined.