• Title/Summary/Keyword: Koryo style

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A Study on the Difference between the Roots of (K)Hanbok and Hanfu (한복과 한푸의 차이점 분석에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Jisu;Na, Youngjoo
    • Human Ecology Research
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    • v.60 no.2
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    • pp.273-287
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    • 2022
  • (K)Hanbok, which is Korea's traditional clothing, differs from the Chinese Hanfu or Japanese Kimono. This study aims to understand the fundamental differences between (K)Hanbok and Hanfu. The Goryeo Dynasty (K)Hanbok, which was particularly popular in China, was established because the Ming Dynasty Hanfu and Chinese fashion were considerably influenced by the 'Koryo Yang'. Firstly, while (K)Hanbok is bulky, Hanfu of the Han Dynasty is characterized by forming a slim silhouette. Due to the climate of the Northern Hemisphere, (K)Hanbok shows a rich silhouette comprising multiple layers of inner pants and a pleated skirt over a voluminous underskirt. On the other hand, the Han's Hanfu creates a straight silhouette in the form of a wrap, revealing the contours of the body. The pleated skirt of the (K)Hanbok can use six to twelve width fabrics, depending on the social position; however, the Hanfu of the Han is a skirt without any pleats. Secondly, the clothing patterns, which have various shapes, are totally different in how they are made and sewn. The Korean (K)Hanbok is a two-piece separate, whereas the Chinese Hanfu style is a one-piece with a skirt. The short length of the (K)Hanbok jacket has a Sup which is cut and pasted allowing the front closure to overlap. Nevertheless, the Hanfu of the Han does not have this Sup because it is of a wrap-around, one-piece style and has an exceptionally large front, and wraps around at the waist which extends to the sides. Thirdly, the (K)Hanbok jacket has separate string Gorums for fastening, and an additional belt around the waist; however, in the case of Gorum, it is unnecessary for a wrapping style of Hanfu. Fourthly, Koreans as an agricultural horse-riding people, basically wore the trousers attached a comfortable gusset, while the Chinese Hanfu had no pants, but the Chinese wore Gaedanggo pants which exposed the hips, inevitably during the Warring States period.

A Historical Study on the Achitectural Cooking and Storing Spaces in Traditional Korean Houses (한국(韓國)의 전통적(傳統的) 식생활공간(食生活空間))

  • Joo, Nam-Chull
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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    • v.2 no.2
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    • pp.169-179
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    • 1987
  • In the life style of the neolithic age, cooking and sleeping space was in one room dugout without differentiation of spaces, so to say one room system. Ro(a kind of primitive fire place) was used for both cooking and heating. However, in the early part of the Iron Age, the uses of Ro were separated into two major uses of cooking and heating. Especially, L-shaped Kudle(an unique under floor heating structure of Korea) was invented for the new system of heating, extending to Koguryo Period. The life style of Koguryo Dynasty could be seen through the mural paintings of tombs. For these mural paintings contain of cooking space(Kitchen), meat storage, and mill house drawing, we can recognize that houses were specialized many quaters according to their function. Also a kitchen fuel hole for preparing food was built without relation to L-shaped Kudle. But during Koryo Period, Kudle could be set up all over the room, the so-called Ondol(the unique Korean panel heating system) settled down. From this development of heating system, room could be adjacent to kitchen, and kitchen fuel hole and heating fuel hole be onething. This system was developed with variety, extending to Chosun Dynasty. In the period of Chosun Dynasty, a kitchen was made close to an Anbang(Woman's living room), and Anbangs Ondol was heated by the warmth of a cooking fireplace. Therefore Handae Puok, outer kitchen was used in summer. As for its storage space, it was seen that there were a pantry near the kitchen and a store house constructed as an independant building. In the latter, it was devided into a firewood storage, a Kimchi storage, and a rice storage, etc. Especially it is a unique feature that 'Handae-Duyju', an outer rice chest which keeps rice, was constructed as an isolated small building.

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불서속에 표현된 복식의 구조와 형태연구-고려시대를 중심으로

  • 채금석
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.23
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    • pp.5-23
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    • 1994
  • This research has been made through analyzing clothes of human dresses and ornaments appeared in the Buddhist pictures which were drawn at the times of the koryo Dynasty. Clothes of the Korea Dynasty could be analyzed as below : First, as for Turban (Doogun), common people used Ogun, Doogun, Byunsangmo and Chaek. For clothes, the style of the era of the ear of the Three-Dynasty. That is , they wore long shirts with narrow sleeves and narrow trousers and skirts. However, around the years of 1320, shirts had no more belt but became to show a kind of ribbon which is called as Gorum , and length of shirts was a bit shortened between hip and waist lines. Second, as for officials clothes, a kind of Rhangkan was used through the Dynasty but after the years of 1300, Wonryukwan was also used. In the clothes, Bangshimkikryung was used and the royals wore full-dress attire which looks like a long gown. Under the full-dress , we can see two different which seems to be a kind of present under-water. Third, in public clothes, same type of Danryung. Holl, belt and shoes were used throughout the Korea Dynasty. In addition Line (Yeon) was remarkably used skirt was dressed under Danryung by middle of the Dynasty the skirt was replaced with trousers. For Bokdoo, Jeonkak bokdoo was mostly used at the beginning of the Dynasty , but in the end of the Dynaty a lowr-flap bokdoo was in the main current. Meanwhile , we can see that the Korea Dynasty had its own in dependence in the clothes although the Dynasty was much affected by the Chines Song Dynasty System. We can hardly find a Mogrian cloethes style in the Korea-Dynasty clothes. Fourth, in Queen's clothes, banbi and pyo were used and sleeves were decorated with birds feather throughout the Dynasty. Lastly , famer's clothes are quite similar to those of the Chinese Song and won Dynasties and a decorative line was used in official clothes. These facts make us have a presumption of our Dongii culture might be conveyed to the Chinese in the ancient times but much more research is needed to clarify.

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A Comparative Study on Pigtails for the Mongolian and the Koryo Dynasty (몽골과 고려의 변발 연구)

  • Kim Ki-Sun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.7 no.1
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    • pp.113-124
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    • 2005
  • Information sources about Mongolian pigtail of 13-14C are relatively rich. But it was difficult to estimate the shape of the pigtail in detail with the descriptions in historical writing or travel books only, and paintings were neither enough to observe the beautiful shape of the pigtail closely on the whole because the portrayed characters were always wearing their hats. However, the authors could trace the detailed shape of the pigtail of 13-14C through close investigation into Mongolian stone statue of the period. In conclusion, the authors performed a comparative study by historically comparing the historical writings, archeological materials, ethnological materials and figurative arts featuring medieval Mongolian pigtail. And the authors paid careful attention to the meaning of those materials to the hairdo history. Historically nothern minority races have become assimilated with surrounding races in language, culture and customs through long economical and cultural exchange, and today their national traits gradually fade away by globalization. But each minority race still stands independently and maintain its own traditional culture. only recently began the study by Korean researchers on Mongolian pigtail, and there is still much to be discussed in ethnological issues such as racial pedigree.

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A Study of Digital Hanbok Design: focuse on Online Games (디지털 한복 디자인 연구: 온라인게임을 중심으로)

  • Cho, Du Na
    • Human Ecology Research
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    • v.56 no.2
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    • pp.195-203
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    • 2018
  • Online game digital hanbok has an aesthetic value in a digital culture and is useful for developing a digital hanbok design for online games as well as other industries. This thesis analyzes its attire and design composition elements to design a 3D digital hanbok by utilizing its formative characteristics. The literature review defines them as transmutability, virtuality, fictionality, reality and playfulness based on the characteristics of digital media, late digital generation and online games. We analyzed 471 images from 50 online games. Sonmaep was used for making 3D digital hanboks. Its attire was grouped into jogori pants, jogori chima, po and armor. Its design composition elements were classified as pleat, layering mu or hemline, mu sub gyeopmagi mitbadae, vent, git dongjung and decoration elements. The results feature 8 digital hanbok designs. Reality designs are replicas of jogori daegugo for men and po for women in the period of the Three States. Virtuality designs are slightly changed shapes of yoseoncheolrik for men and white jogori yellow chima for women in the Koryo Dynasty. Fictionality designs are casual fusion armors for men and women as a hyperbolic form. Playfulness designs are doll costumes for men and jogori chima for women as a kitsch and childish style. The concept of online game digital hanbok escapes from conceptual limitations of traditional hanboks. This result can be used for designing digital hanbok contents in various industrial parts.

Mathematics and Society in Koryo and Chosun (고려.조선시대의 수학과 사회)

  • Joung Ji-Ho
    • The Mathematical Education
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    • v.24 no.2
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    • pp.48-73
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    • 1986
  • Though the tradition of Korean mathematics since the ancient time up to the 'Enlightenment Period' in the late 19th century had been under the influence of the Chinese mathematics, it strove to develop its own independent of Chinese. However, the fact that it couldn't succeed to form the independent Korean mathematics in spite of many chances under the reign of Kings Sejong, Youngjo, and Joungjo was mainly due to the use of Chinese characters by Koreans. Han-gul (Korean characters) invented by King Sejong had not been used widely as it was called and despised Un-mun and Koreans still used Chinese characters as the only 'true letters' (Jin-suh). The correlation between characters and culture was such that, if Koreans used Han-gul as their official letters, we may have different picture of Korean mathematics. It is quite interesting to note that the mathematics in the 'Enlightenment Period' changed rather smoothly into the Western mathematics at the time when Han-gul was used officially with Chinese characters. In Koryo, the mathematics existed only as a part of the Confucian refinement, not as the object of sincere study. The mathematics in Koryo inherited that of the Unified Shilla without any remarkable development of its own, and the mathematicians were the Inner Officials isolated from the outside world who maintained their positions as specialists amid the turbulence of political changes. They formed a kind of Guild, their posts becoming patrimony. The mathematics in Koryo significant in that they paved the way for that of Chosun through a few books of mathematics such as 'Sanhak-Kyemong', 'Yanghwi-Sanpup' and 'Sangmyung-Sanpup'. King Sejong was quite phenomenal in his policy of promotion of mathematics. King himself was deeply interested in the study, createing an atmosphere in which all the high ranking officials and scholars highly valued mathematics. The sudden development of mathematic culture was mainly due to the personality and capacity of king who took anyone with the mathematic talent into government service regardless of his birth and against the strong opposition of the conservative officials. However, King's view of mathematics never resulted in the true development of mathematics perse and he used it only as an official technique in the tradition way. Korean mathematics in King Sejong's reign was based upon both the natural philosophy in China and the unique geo-political reality of Korean peninsula. The reason why the mathematic culture failed to develop continually against those social background was that the mathematicians were not allowed to play the vital role in that culture, they being only the instrument for the personality or politics of the king. While the learned scholar class sometimes played the important role for the development of the mathematic culture, they often as not became an adamant barrier to it. As the society in Chosun needed the function of mathematics acutely, the mathematicians formed the settled class called Jung-in (Middle-Man). Jung-in was a unique class in Chosun and we can't find its equivalent in China or Japan. These Jung-in mathematician officials lacked tendency to publish their study, since their society was strictly exclusive and their knowledge was very limited. Though they were relatively low class, these mathematicians played very important role in Chosun society. In 'Sil-Hak (the Practical Learning) period' which began in the late 16th century, especially in the reigns of Kings Youngjo and Jungjo, which was called the Renaissance of Chosun, the ambitious policy for the development of science and technology called for. the rapid increase of he number of such technocrats as mathematics, astronomy and medicine. Amid these social changes, the Jung-in mathematicians inevitably became quite ambitious and proud. They tried to explore deeply into mathematics perse beyond the narrow limit of knowledge required for their office. Thus, in this period the mathematics developed rapidly, undergoing very important changes. The characteristic features of the mathematics in this period were: Jung-in mathematicians' active study an publication, the mathematic studies by the renowned scholars of Sil-Hak, joint works by these two classes, their approach to the Western mathematics and their effort to develop Korean mathematics. Toward the 'Enlightenment Period' in the late 19th century, the Western mathematics experienced great difficulty to take its roots in the Peninsula which had been under the strong influence of Confucian ideology and traditional Korean mathematic system. However, with King Kojong's ordinance in 1895, the traditional Korean mathematics influenced by Chinese disappeared from the history of Korean mathematics, as the school system was hanged into the Western style and the Western mathematics was adopted as the only mathematics to be taught at the Schools of various levels. Thus the 'Enlightenment Period' is the period in which Korean mathematics shifted from Chinese into European.

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MATHEMATICS AND SOCIETY IN KORYO AND CHOSUN (고려.조선시대의 수학과 사회)

  • 정지호
    • Journal for History of Mathematics
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.91-105
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    • 1985
  • Though the tradition of Korean mathematics since the ancient time up to the "Enlightenment Period" in the late 19th century had been under the influence of the Chinese mathematics, it strove to develop its own independent of Chinese. However, the fact that it couldn't succeed to form the independent Korean mathematics in spite of many chances under the reign of Kings Sejong, Youngjo, and Joungjo was mainly due to the use of Chinese characters by Koreans. Han-gul (Korean characters) invented by King Sejong had not been used widely as it was called and despised Un-mun and Koreans still used Chinese characters as the only "true letters" (Jin-suh). The correlation between characters and culture was such that , if Koreans used Han-gul as their official letters, we may have different picture of Korean mathematics. It is quite interesting to note that the mathematics in the "Enlightenment Period" changed rather smoothly into the Western mathematics at the time when Han-gul was used officially with Chinese characters. In Koryo, the mathematics existed only as a part of the Confucian refinement, not as the object of sincere study. The mathematics in Koryo inherited that of the Unified Shilla without any remarkable development of its own, and the mathematicians were the Inner Officials isolated from the outside world who maintained their positions as specialists amid the turbulence of political changes. They formed a kind of Guild, their posts becoming patrimony. The mathematics in Koryo is significant in that they paved the way for that of Chosun through a few books of mathematics such as "Sanhak-Kyemong, "Yanghwi - Sanpup" and "Sangmyung-Sanpup." King Sejong was quite phenomenal in his policy of promotion of mathematics. King himself was deeply interested in the study, createing an atmosphere in which all the high ranking officials and scholars highly valued mathematics. The sudden development of mathematic culture was mainly due to the personality and capacity of King who took any one with the mathematic talent onto government service regardless of his birth and against the strong opposition of the conservative officials. However, King's view of mathematics never resulted in the true development of mathematics per se and he used it only as an official technique in the tradition way. Korean mathematics in King Sejong's reign was based upon both the natural philosophy in China and the unique geo-political reality of Korean peninsula. The reason why the mathematic culture failed to develop continually against those social background was that the mathematicians were not allowed to play the vital role in that culture, they being only the instrument for the personality or politics of the King. While the learned scholar class sometimes played the important role for the development of the mathematic culture, they often as not became an adamant barrier to it. As the society in Chosun needed the function of mathematics acutely, the mathematicians formed the settled class called Jung-in (Middle-Man). Jung-in was a unique class in Chosun and we can't find its equivalent in China of Japan. These Jung-in mathematician officials lacked tendency to publish their study, since their society was strictly exclusive and their knowledge was very limited. Though they were relatively low class, these mathematicians played very important role in Chosun society. In "Sil-Hak (the Practical Learning) period" which began in the late 16th century, especially in the reigns of King Youngjo and Jungjo, which was called the Renaissance of Chosun, the ambitious policy for the development of science and technology called for the rapid increase of the number of such technocrats as mathematicians inevitably became quite ambitious and proud. They tried to explore deeply into mathematics per se beyond the narrow limit of knowledge required for their office. Thus, in this period the mathematics developed rapidly, undergoing very important changes. The characteristic features of the mathematics in this period were: Jung-in mathematicians' active study an publication, the mathematic studies by the renowned scholars of Sil-Hak, joint works by these two classes, their approach to the Western mathematics and their effort to develop Korean mathematics. Toward the "Enlightenment Period" in the late 19th century, the Western mathematics experienced great difficulty to take its roots in the Peninsula which had been under the strong influence of Confucian ideology and traditional Korean mathematic system. However, with King Kojong's ordinance in 1895, the traditonal Korean mathematics influenced by Chinese disappeared from the history of Korean mathematics, as the school system was changed into the Western style and the Western matehmatics was adopted as the only mathematics to be taught at the schools of various levels. Thus the "Enlightenment Period" is the period in which Korean mathematics sifted from Chinese into European.od" is the period in which Korean mathematics sifted from Chinese into European.pean.

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A Study on the form of korean Women's Hair Style-From the Viewpoint of Woman's Hair Style in Cho-Sun Dynasty- (한국 여성의 수발양식 관한 연구 -조선시대 여성 수발법을 중심으로-)

  • 정상숙;조효순
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.41
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    • pp.95-105
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    • 1998
  • SOO-BAL(Hair Style) is a method Which match hair style to face and clothes with using hair covering and protecting the head. Also SOO-BAL includes personal ornaments using to avoid one's hair be disheveled. In a standpoint of beauty and spirit, etiquette SOO-BAL is a very important thing as one being dressed up. Until now, since just a form of hair style have been studied, hair styling process is nothing to be known and studied. Time after time, our unique traditional SOO-BAL is forgotten with clothes and then this th-esis will be classified hair styling form follow-ing a form of hair style in royal palace of the C-hosun dynasty. According to the record of HAE DONG HISTORY, it shows the same of attire between Ko-rean and chinese style in ae of the chosun. The reason in that there were no any certain boundary border and the interaction of culture between two countries was happened spontaneously at ancient time like the GOCHO-SUN age. Until the period of the three states, the korean attire be changed had gone with chinese one s-imilarly. The chinese form gave to influence on the EONJIN MEURI·POON-GI-MYEONG MEURI·JJO-CJIN MEURI·MOOK-EUN GOONG-BAL MEURI·OL-LIN MEURI·SSANGSANG-TU ME-URI be drawn wall painting in the KOKUR-YU. And a gold chignon accesso-ry unearthed in a MOO-RYOUNG royal mausoleum is proof of the korean attrire be changed with chinese. In the shilla dynasty at three years after Cjin-Deuk(A.D. 649) reign. It was recorded that the dynasty let women wear the form of chinese attire. Also in the koryo dyn-asty, a rod-like hairpin (BIN-YEU) and DANG-GI employing EON-JIN MEURI was used. The SOO-BAL based on the Confucianism had lots of regulations which limited to use ornaments with classes of society in the CHOSUN dynasty. Until YOUNG CHO and CHUNG CHO period. EONJIN MEURI be decorated GACHAE was announced by dynasty as ind-ulging in luxury. Women of yangban used a rod-like hairpin and a chignon accessory made by jewerly. And 1-owly women weared a rod-like hairpin made of born and wood to perfom EONJIN MEURI with PUNCHAE. Most unmarried women decorated with DDA-AH-NEULIN MEURI, GUI-MIT MEURI, specially in palace with SAE-ANG MEURI. At palace, one put on a full dress with KEUN MEURI, and a simple dress with ER-YEO MEURI be decorated DDERL-JAM The CHOP-JI MEURI manifested social rank, class. Kids at CHO-SUN age had BA-DUK-PANMEURI and JONG-JONG MEURI. The ornament things are GACHE, DDERL JAM with EON-JIN M-EURI, and all kinds of rod-like hairpin and chignon accessory used in JJOK MEURI. IN DANGGE, JE-BI-BURI DANGGI used by ummarried women. DO-TOO-RAK DANGGI and AP DANGGI on a dress suit, and BE-SSI DANGGI used by 3∼4 years ungrown kids etc. were used. And at palace, kinds of CHUPJI used with JJOK MEURI showed social rank. In CHOSUN age, women want to keep shiny hair washed at TA-NO festival day, a treatment of bald hair used a forked remedy. In CHOSUN age, woman Soo-Bal hair style has DAE-SOO·DDEU-KOO-JI MEURI·CHO-P-GI MEURI·EON-JIN MEURI·SAE-ANG MEURI· and so on. We could find out Soo-Bal was developed very well by these variety hair styles. I attatched all of the hair style pictures step by step, and also explained detail my research foll owing these pictures.

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The Study of Costume in a Mill Yang Kobumri Mural Painting (밀양(密陽) 고법리(古法里) 고분벽화(古墳壁畵)에 나타난 복식(服飾) 연구(硏究))

  • Jo, Oh-Soon;Yoo, Joo-Lee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.105-115
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    • 2001
  • When restoring a tomb of Songeun, Park Ik that damaged by typhoon in Kobubri, Chungdomyon, Mill Yang, Kyoung Nam in October 2000, a flower designed stone and fresco was discovered. Soneun Park Ik passed the civil service examination in Kongmin dynasty and was consecutively occupied Sajaedogam(司宰少監; regarded as one of second highest official rank). The fresco realistically depicts custom of ordinary people in end of Koryo, beginning of Chosun dynasty that it is considered as an important research material in study of ostumes. Therefore, this research intend to contribute to study of costumes in general public of Koryo that has insufficient study materials through study and analyze of costumes in the fresco with literature research. The number of figures in the fresco is presumed as 26-27 in all but clearly observed figures is only five women and four men and partly damaged figures are two men and two women. Women are worn relatively long yoo that can cover hip as an upper garment and Sang(裳) as trousers. The upper garments are all adjusted to right and has Jikryoung gik (straight collars) but there are strip attached collars or double collars among the Jikryoung gik. The length of Sang reaches to ankle and a waistband is trailed to below the knees. Most of hair are combed in the two sides and made a ring, moreover worn ceremonial coronet, which imply the ceremonial parade. Distinguished from the frescos of Koguryo, there are no women wearing Po(袍) also Yoo with Dae(帶) and without were coexisted. The mens costume is mainly appeared in two types. One(元) is Danryoungpo, Po with round collar and wearing a lozenge shaped crest with a brim, the other is Jikryoung Po, Po with straight collar, and wearing Ballib(拔笠), the latter is a costume of two man presumed as envoys. In the case of Danryoungpo, its length reached to ankle that shows decorum and in Jikryoungpo its length is below the knees that seem to offer practicality for envoys to guide a long journey. Both man and women are in decent cloth with a crest, which simple costume for ordinary people as a Chaksoopo that has comfortable length for movement and narrow sleeves. Songeun Park Ik actively worked under regency of One dynasty that influence of Mongol is seen in mans crest. There are some changes but including womens costume most of cloth are followed Korean traditional costume style.

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A Study on the History and Characteristics of Jeongamsa Sumano Stupa (정암사 수마노탑의 유래와 양식적 특성)

  • Cheon, Deuk-Youm;Jung, Ji-Youn;Han, Seung-Hoon
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.29 no.5
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    • pp.63-78
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    • 2020
  • Jeongamsa Sumano Stupa(Korean National Treasure No. 332) is a brick like stone stupa and it is considered that this stupa was built in the Later Silla period or in the early part of the Koryo period, considering its structure and style. This Buddhist stupa is highly significant in Korean Buddhism since it was built to enshrine Buddhist sarira reliquaries that 'Jajang' brought from China in the 7th century, according to the 『Overlooked Historical Records of the Three Korean Kingdoms, 『三國遺事』』. However, the stupa was positioned at the very unique location. It was positioned not at the center of Jeongamsa Temple, but at the separate edifice. The location of Jeongamsa Sumano Stupa indicates that this stupa embodies the nature of Mahaparinirvana treasure palaces and that this stupa was recognized as a solemn symbol, which reflected a sarira faith. Jeongamsa Sumano Stupa is the only brick stone stupa built in Gangwon province. It is worth noticing that this stupa was mostly made of dolostones, found around this region, and thereby regional characteristics were reflected in this stupa. The other interesting fact about Jeongamsa Sumano Stupa is that there are many records available which include information about stupa's reconstruction, considering that there aren't many records of other stupas. The most representative records are 5 pieces of memorial stones which include information about when and on what ground the stupa was reconstructed as well as information about originators of the stupa. In conclusion, Jeongamsa Sumano Stupar could be regarded as the academically valuable material since it is considered very important and helpful for understanding not only the history of Korean Buddhist stupas, but also so many other things such as construction techniques, styles of brick pagoda and brick stone stupa, and such.