• Title/Summary/Keyword: Korean traditional fabrics

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Technological Experimental Study of Traditional Plant-daes (전통 직물염료의 공예적 염색실험(I))

  • 선우은경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.29
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    • pp.85-98
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    • 1996
  • WE SELECTED 30 SORTS OF PLANT-DYES WHICH WE CAN GET EASILY AROUND US DYED TEXTILE FABRICS THROUGH EXPERIMENTAL STUDIES AND GOT SEVERAL GOOD COLORS AS FOLLOWS WITH HISTORICAL REVIEW-ING ABOUT THE TRADITIONL NATU-RAL DYEING. 1. We got the colors of brown most com-monly yellow the nest black green and red in order of frequency 2. It is dyed more rapidly beautifully and deeply to the silk than to the cotton. 3. Salt worked the colors deeply K2CO3 more light FeSo47H2O more darkly and Alum the most beautifully and brightly as a mor-dant. 4. natural plant dyes contains various sorts of colors and we could confirm the possibility to create the composed implicit and secondary and tertiary colors through dual method of dyeing which couldnt's be got in the field of modern chemical dyes.

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A Study on the Textiles of Female Chima·Jeogori in the 20th Century (20세기 치마·저고리의 소재 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook;Lim, Hyun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.6
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    • pp.53-66
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    • 2012
  • This study analyzed the fabrics of Chima, Jeogori of the 20th century. It was based on Kyungwoon Museum relics, newspaper articles and photographs. This research focused on the transition process that has been organized into three stages. The first stage is from the opening of a port to the colonial period in Korea. By this time, the casual wear Hanbok was made with the traditional cotton and woolen textiles in addition to quite a lot of upscale clothing textiles. Stage two is from 1970s to the period after the liberation and Western Costumes represent the time of when the suit was mixed. At the time of the war, due to social and economic difficulties, convenience and practicality were emphasized rather than focusing on aesthetic characteristics. Third period is from the 1980s to the 1990s when the Hanbok was no longer considered a casual wear. Instead, its high quality and elegance redefined it to be a formal wear.

Forms, colors and construction of the pattern cases for Korean traditional socks and cultural product development (한국 전통 버선본집의 형태, 색상, 구성 기법 분석 및 감물염색 문화상품 개발)

  • Hong, Heesook;Kim, Gi-Eok
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.21 no.6
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    • pp.860-876
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    • 2013
  • The pattern cases for Korean traditional socks are named "beoseonbongip" which means a pouch to keep patterns for making "beoseon". "Beoseon" is Korean traditional socks. This study is to identify characteristics of the pattern cases and to develop cultural products based on the unique characteristics of the pattern cases. One hundred fifty one photos of "beosonbongip" were collected and quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed. Seventy percent of them were made between Joseon Dynasty and 1960s. As a result, most of the collected pattern cases are rectangular and square shapes, red color, and silk fabrics, and sizes of them are from 9cm to 15cm. A few pattern cases with different sizes and colors were also observed. Most pattern cases were made by fixing two among four triangle pieces which made by folding four tips of a rectangular or square cloth and then puting a not or a loop on the remaining triangle pieces in order to open and close the pattern cases. In a small number of the pattern cases, three of the four pieces were fixed and a button, a bead, a broach, or two nots or two loops were put on the other piece for opening and closing. Products such as apparels, bags, pouches, frames, and key holders were made using "beoseonbongip" form and construction method. This shows that "beoseonbongip" is a useful motive for creative product development.

Development of a Human-Clothing-Environment Simulator for Dynamic Heat and Moisture Transfer Properties of Fabrics

  • Kim, Eun Ae;Yoo, Shinjung;Kim, Jeongjin
    • Fibers and Polymers
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    • v.4 no.4
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    • pp.215-221
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    • 2003
  • A vertical skin model with two detachable environmental chambers was developed to simulate a Human-Clothing-Environment system and to evaluate heat and moisture transport properties of textile materials under severe conditions and during transient states. The construction of the system was described and data reproducibility and accuracy of the instrument were verified by using PEG treated nonwovens. Also advantages over a traditional static type experiment were demonstrated based on a series of experiments.

A Study on the Characteristics of New Type of Composite Bipolar Plate for the PEM Fuel Cell (고분자전해질 연료전지용 새로운 타입의 복합재료 분리판의 특성연구)

  • Kim, Jong-Wan;Lee, Jin-Sun;Sun, Kyung-Bok;Lee, Joong-Hee
    • 한국신재생에너지학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 2009.11a
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    • pp.180-183
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    • 2009
  • Composite bipolar plates offer several advantages of low cost, light weight, and ease of manufacturing compared to traditional graphite plate. However, it is difficult to achieve both high electrical conductivity and high flexural strength. In this study, the hybrid carbons filled epoxy composite bipolar plates were fabricated to test electrical conductivity and flexural properties. Graphite powders were used as the main conducting filler and continuous carbon fiber fabrics were inserted to improve the mechanical properties of the composite. This hybrid composite showed improved in-plane electrical conductivity and flexural property. The moldability of the hybrid composite was also improved comparing to the continuous prepreg composite. This study suggested that the continuous carbon fiber inserted graphite/epoxy composites can be a potential candidate material to overcome the disadvantages of conventional graphite composite or continuous prepreg composite bipolar plates.

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Alkaline Dyeing and Color Fastness of Polyester Fiber (폴리에스테르 섬유의 알칼리 염색과 견뢰도)

  • 정동석;오준석;이문철
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.12 no.4
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    • pp.248-255
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    • 2000
  • Polyester fibers and fabrics have been dyed with disperse dyes in alkaline dyebath such as alkaline buffer and alkaline auxiliary(JPH-95) comparing a traditional acidic dyeing. After dyeing the samples were extracted with 100% DMF, and washing and rubbing fastnesses were measured. In dyeing at $100^\circ{C}$ the dyeing rate increased with decreasing fiber denier, regardless of dye baths, whereas the dyeing rates of the same denier fiber increased in the order of alkaline dyeing>acidic dyeing>JPH-95 dyeing. In dyeing at $130^\circ{C}$ the dyeing rate of PET fiber in JPH-95 dye bath decreased compared with the other two types of dye baths. In the time and temperature curve the dye uptake of JPH-95 dyeing was higher than the other two types of dye baths in the range of low temperature$(95~115^\circ{C})$. The equilibrium dye uptake increased in the order of 0.52d>2.04d>0.05d fiber. Washing fastness had no change in all three types of dye baths. But rubbing fastness was not good for alkaline dyeing except black dyes.

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Analysis of Physical/Mechanical Properties and Color of Bast Fiber Fabrics Dyed using Rubia akane Nakai

  • Jang, Yoon-Young;Kim, Jong-Jun
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.13 no.3
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    • pp.86-98
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    • 2009
  • The fashion industry saw the emergence of environment-friendly and natural fabric materials recently. The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Ramie and hemp have long been favored fabric materials in Korea especially for summer. The hand-related mechanical/physical properties of the fabric specimens were analyzed using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). Subjective evaluation was also implemented based on a series of selected adjectives. Studies on natural dyeing methods are important since the establishment of scientific approach is needed in terms of environment and human safety along with the reproduction of traditional natural dyeing methods. In this study, linen, ramie, hemp, and cotton/polyester/linen union fabric specimens were used for the natural dyeing using Rubia akane Nakai with the mordant of gallnut. ${\Delta}E$ values of dyed fabric specimens, mordanted and dyed once using Rubia akane Nakai, increased significantly compared to those of repeatedly dyed fabric specimens without mordanting.

A Study of Huafu as Expressed in Chinese Contemporary Fashion (중국 현대패션에 표현된 화복(華服)에 관한 연구)

  • Pan, Hong-Yu;Kim, Ji-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.3
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    • pp.66-83
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    • 2010
  • Huafu is the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese as the significant cultural symbol of Chinese civilization. The resuscitation of Huafu is an exemplification for the pride of a nation, due to China's rapid economic development and a craze for Chinese cultures. Huafu's resuscitation is not only introducing the traditional design factors of Huafu into the contemporary fashion but also reflects the image of Chinese style created to modernize works. Through the study of the history of Huafu, it could be summarized that Ruqun(Zu-chin), Shenyi(Shen-yee), and Shan were the most important and typical types. The characteristics of Huafu were primary colors or strong contrast with achromatic colors, flora and fauna patterns, and geometric patterns. The clothing aesthetic of Huafu could be summed up as spacious, delicate, gorgeous, clandestine, and unconventional character. There were lots of elements in Huafu that could provide inspiration for contemporary fashion designers, such as forms, colors, patterns, details, and also the aesthetic. Based on the analysis of the Chinese designers who applied the elements of Huafu into contemporary fashion design, it could be recognized that the Chinese designer's works were made using the elements of traditional Huafu directly or using new fabrics and techniques to give a modern sense, but also embodies the Huafu's clothing aesthetic at the same time. In the wake of the resuscitation and publicity of Huafu, the essential factors of Huafu will be able to provide inspiration for designers not only for Chinese but also around the world.

Comparative Study on the Manufacturing Process of Persimmon Juice, Persimmon Dyeing Method, and Transfiguration of Persimmon-dyed Items in Korea and Japan (한국과 일본의 감즙 제조와 염색법 및 염색물 변용에 관한 비교 연구)

  • Park, Soon-Ja
    • The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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    • v.22 no.1
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    • pp.77-94
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    • 2011
  • It is not clear to assume the history of dyeing by persimmon juice without an early knowledge of an accurate record. However, the beginning of persimmon dyeing in Korea is estimated to be around the $13^th$-$14^th$ century, even though there are no supporting records. On the other hand, there are definite records of persimmon dyeing in Japan from around the 17th century. Persimmon juice was originally used for fishing tools in both Korea and Japan, but upon entering the Modern Era it eventually transfigured into a dye for fabric. In Korea, persimmon-dyed fabrics were used for traditional clothing until it also became a popular choice for modern clothes in the 1990s. In Japan, persimmon juice was originally used for varnishing surfaces of household items, but it recently became a material for arts, crafts, and even apparels. The main difference between persimmon dyeing of the two countries is the presence and absence of the fermentation process. In Korea, persimmons are picked and water is immediately added to its juice to produce the dye. In contrast, Japan produces a fermented persimmon dye. As a result, in Korea the dye can not be preserved for long periods, whilst in Japan it is matured in the storage for 2-3 years. Today's pursuit of eco-friendliness and wellness has prompted an inclination towards natural material clothes. Therefore, it is necessary for both countries to push scientific research into improving the storage methods and colorfastness of persimmon-dyed products for the increase of use consumption in other areas of persimmon and arrowroot dyed fabrics, and the development of environment friendly materials.

A Research on the Exchange of Costume Culture between Netherlands and Japan through 17-18 Century Dutch East India Company (17~18세기 동인도회사를 통한 네덜란드와 일본의 복식문화교류 연구)

  • Kim, Myung-Eun;Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.4
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    • pp.109-123
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    • 2015
  • The object of this research is to take a bilateral look into cultural exchanges of the Netherlands and Japan through the East India Company and thereby improve the general understanding in regards to the exchanges of costume cultures between the East and the West. The study conducted qualitative analyses on features of contemporary costumes of the Netherlands and Japan from 1602 to 1799 by investigating the secondary sources, such as the histories of costumes, arts, and literature. The results are as follows; the traditional sleeves of the Japanese Kimono were basically cut out in a straight line. However due to the growing popularity of the kimono home gown in Europe, the producers of the kimono in India as well as several other European countries modified them into western-style sleeves. Regarding the costumes of the Netherlands, which were introduced to Japan, the study found that Japan imported Dutch fabrics, instead of specific clothing items. In Japan, costume controls and anti-conspicuous consumption regulations among social classes including a closed-door policy had negative effects on both developments and exchanges of costumes of the country. However, when it comes to the Jinbaori, a costume for ruling classes, Japan was open to using fabrics, patterns and designs of the West. In light of what have been discussed so far, the study confirmed that the costume exchanges between the two countries started long after their first business of the general cultural exchanges. Though it is clear that the advancements in the natural sciences that the Japanese made can be attributed to the West, Japan was one of the nations that impacted the costume cultures in Europe.