• 복식
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• 제62권3호
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• pp.57-72
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• 2012

Interest in the environment is rising in all the sectors of industry and culture. Even in the fashion industry, fashion designers have recently begun delivering messages on the environment. In particular, $Issey$ $Miyake$ has been constantly interested in environmental issues, and has been deemed as a designer who values practicality and universality in clothing. This study seeks to examine Issey Miyake's fashion from the perspective of an eco-friendly design. This research analyzed collections of $Issey$ $Miyake$ from 1980 to 2010 through photo works and www.firstview.com. The research method was to study 8 people who have professionalism in fashion design and have analyzed 201 works of $Issey$ $Miyake$ from 1980s to 2000s that have the characteristics of eco-friendly design. The results showed the following characteristics of eco-friendly design in Issey Miyake's fashion : naturality, simplicity, sustainability and transformability. First, $Issey$ $Miyake$ preferred natural materials and used Japan traditional dyeing that integrated modern techniques for naturality. Second, he expressed simplicity in his fashion by applying the least cutting and sewing in geometric panels. Third, he pursued sustainability with comfortable clothing that anyone could wear regardless of trend, age and body shape. Finally, he developed the A-POC system that eliminated the usual needs for cutting and sewing and tried transformability on clothing using buttons, strings, belts, zippers, and layered styling.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.139-148
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• 2010

This study was conducted to restore our traditional Cheongtaejeon tea and to develop the special products. We inoculated Cheongtaejeon tea with lactobacilli (Lactobacillus plantarum CHO 25) and the mixed microbial strains (L. plantarum CHO 25 + Saccharomyces cerevisiae + Bacillus amyloliquefaciens CHO 104). We also examined the sensuous characteristics and physiological activity of Cheongtaejeon tea which was produced by the inoculation of microbial strains. The external appearance of Cheongtaejeon teas were not significant among the teas which were produced with or without the inoculation of L. plantarum CHO 25 and the mixed microbial strains. The taste of the tea increased most in Cheongtaejeon tea which was produced without the inoculation of microbial strains. The taste and liking of Cheongtaejeon tea which was inoculated with Aspergillus oryzae and Aspergillus niger decreased significantly, and it was not suitable to drink. Total phenolics compound contents, total flavonoid contents and DPPH ($\alpha,\alpha$-diphenyl-$\beta$-picryl-hydrazyl) radical scavenging activity of Cheongtaejeon tea extracts increased much more in the order of that produced with the inoculation of L. plantarum CHO 25, control and that with the mixed microbial strains. However, nitrite radical scavenging activity in 1,000 mg/L Cheongtaejeon tea hot water extracts were in the order of the control (94.4%), the inoculation of L. plantarum CHO 25 (93.6%) and the mixed microbial strains (91.1%). Overall results indicated that the sensuous characteristics increased most in Cheongtaejeon tea which was produced without the inoculation of microbial strains, and those physiological activities in tea with the inoculation of L. plantarum CHO 25.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.507-518
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• 2006

This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.450-470
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• 2018

This study examined the risk components and risk types perceived in the context of purchasing decisions of paper fashion products. This study also identified the levels of perceived risk by consumers and the differences between age groups in risk perception. First, qualitative data were collected through a focus group interview with 7 Korean females in their 20s to 50s. The interviewees were presented with two types of paper materials (undyed and dyed Jumchi-Hanji) and products (bags and wallets) made with the papers. The interviewees mentioned 11 risk components which were classified into five types of risks: performance (easily torn/lack of durableness, lint/pilling/wear-out, lack of water-resistant, no washability, and deformation and discoloration over time), social-psychological (old and traditional image), aesthetic (lack of design diversity, unsatisfactory appearance due to repair), financial (expensive price, lack of usability in daily life) and time/convenience (difficulty in handling) risks. Based on the results of the interview, a measurement for evaluating the risk perception of paper fashion products was developed. Second, quantitative data were collected from 64 Korean women in their 20s to 50s using the measurement. Respondents who were presented with the paper materials and the products perceived the performance risk more strongly than the social-psychological risk and aesthetic risk. In addition, differences between age groups were found: younger respondents perceived performance risk and social-psychological risk more strongly than older respondents, but older respondents perceived financial risk more than younger respondents. Based on this study, strategies for the risk reduction of paper fashion products were proposed.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.9-15
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• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.45-53
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• 2004

Natural dyes have poor colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the dyed fabric to sunlight encountered during the display or wearing. As colors on fabrics fade excessively under sunlight, it is a problem to infer and restore the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics to original colors. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to color change under light. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Weather-O-meter was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to light for 2.5 to 450 hours. The process of color changes in the CIEL *A*B* color-order system to the exposure time were determined by spectrophotometer at 10$^{\circ}$ observer. Sunlight exposure caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the type of dye used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc.) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to light. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to fading in both exposure except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in fading, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.471-482
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• 2016

This study investigated the characteristics of cotton production of Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Yeongsan River compared with that of Gurye-gun, Seomjingang River in modern times. To do this, research method was both literature and fieldwork research, results were as follows. First, as for cotton fiber cultivation in Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Chinese cotton (在來綿) has been cultivated during Japanese Colonial era unlike Gurye-gun. Especially, Yellow cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in Hwasungun. Second, as for spinning in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun, some of cotton spinning process have been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool since Japanese colonial era. Third, the loom types also, like spinning tools, have been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in Damyang-gun, Hwasungun and Gurye-gun. Chemical dyeing with chemical dyestuff also has been done since Japanese Colonial era. Fourth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton production have been reduced in both Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun. For Damyang-gun, this has been connected with bamboo craft since the Joseon Dynasty period. So, Damyang-gun has more concentrated on bamboo craft than cotton production. For Hwasun-gun, since Japanese Colonial era, sericulture has been very important. So, Hwasun-gun also has more concentrated on sericulture than cotton production. The main reason to discontinue cotton production in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun was related to the local choice like economic added value.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.8-15
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• 1996

Three pieces of cotton fabrics used for this study were exhumed in the Mt.Moo Deung near Kwang Ju in 1965. The fabrics were remains of Jang Heung Lim Si-the nephew's wife of General Kim Deok Ryeong. It was reported that Jang Heung Lim Si died in 1615. The cotton fabrics were classified into three, A, B and C, according to their color. The fabric A was inherent color of cotton, the fabric B was that of light brown and the fabric C was that of dark brown. The physical and chemical characteristics of the cotton fabrics were examined. In the meantime the construction of cotton fabrics and traditional dyeing of Yi dynasty were studied through various records. The results were as follows: 1. According to electromicroscopic examination, the lumen in the cotton fiber had not been developed enough, therefore the quality of cotton at that time was supposed to be not so excellent. 2. The results of chemical analysis indicated that: (1) While the copper number of the cotton fabric A was similar to that of bleached cotton, that of the fabric C was extremely high. (2) The amount of methylene blue absorption was much more than that of normal cotton. (3) The content of cellulose was less than that of normal cotton. (4) The degree of polymerization was less than that of normal cotton. From the results mentioned above, it was concluded that the cotton fabrics were oxidized slowly in the closed lime coffin for a long period of time. From this process of oxidization and deterioration, the degree of polymerization was decreased through depolymerization, and carboxyl groups were produced by the oxidization at reducing end groups. 3. It was confirmed that the cotton fabric C was dyed by the juice of immature persimmon. Thus, it was inferred that the large amount of copper number of cotton fabric C was derived from phenolic OH groups of tannins having high reducing properties in persimmon.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제54권3호
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• pp.52-67
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• 2021

본 논문은 조선시대 다회장과 매듭장의 협업 관계 규명을 시도하였다. 근대 변혁기를 거치며 다회장은 해체되었으며 매듭장은 국가무형문화재로 지정되었다. 이는 과거를 매듭장 중심으로 바라보는 계기가 되었다. 반면 다회장의 인식과 연구는 매듭장의 일부 공정 정도로만 소략하게 진행되었다. 본 연구는 문헌기록을 중심으로 조선시대 다회장과 매듭장의 역할을 규명해보았다. 다회장은 여러 올의 명주실을 엮거나 꼬아 띠와 끈을 만든 장인이었다. 제작한 끈으로 매듭을 맺거나 망수·술을 만들어 장엄용 공예품을 제작하기도 하였다. 다회는 품목과 기법이 다양한 공예 기술이었다. 예복, 예악, 장황 등 장엄물과 관끈, 조대, 주머니끈, 노리개 등 일상품으로 폭넓게 제작되었다. 대형유소부터 방석끝까지 크고 작은 쓰임새가 많았기 때문에 거의 모든 의궤에 다회장이 소속되었다. 현대사회에는 매듭장이 정련, 염색, 합사, 다회, 매듭, 술 등 전 과정을 담당하지만 조선시대에는 다회장이 과정의 주축을 담당하였다. 도감 설치 시 다회장과 매듭장이 모두 귀속된 방은 연여를 제작하는 방이었다. 다회장과 매듭장의 협업 관계는 연여에 수식되는 대형유소에서 발생하였다. 대형유소는 2m 넘는 길이의 굵은 원다회로 매듭을 맺은 장엄용 공예품이다. 다회장이 원다회를 짜면 매듭장이 섬세하고 균형 있는 매듭을 맺었다. 또 굵은 원다회에 망수와 술을 달아 인장을 꾸미는 인수도 분담하여 제작하였다. 기술은 인간의 생애 속에서 시대의 필요에 따라 발전과 쇠퇴를 반복한다. 전통 기술을 직시하기 위해서는 시대적 제도와 사회상의 흐름을 살펴볼 필요가 있다. 본 논문은 조선시대 때 보편적인 장색이었으나 오늘날 낯선 존재가 된 다회장을 입체적으로 조명하였다는 데 의미가 있다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제37권3호
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• pp.191-208
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• 2021

본 연구에서는 전국 및 지역별 지중 흰개미 정기 모니터링 실시 기관들의 결과보고서를 바탕으로 국내 목조문화재의 지역별, 지정별 지중 흰개미 피해 및 관리 현황을 파악하였다. 또한 조사 내용들을 바탕으로 GIS 프로그램을 이용하여 전국 2,805건의 조사 대상 목조문화재에 대한 지중 흰개미 가해흔 및 가해 진행 현황 지도를 제작하였다. 현황 지도 제작 결과, 2018년~2019년의 기간 동안 총 486건의 목조문화재에서 지중 흰개미 가해흔이 확인되었으며, 그중 143건(약 29.4%)에서 지중 흰개미 권역 유입 및 목부재 가해가 진행 중인 것으로 확인되었다. 위와 같이 조사된 피해 현황 자료의 접근성을 높이기 위하여 Map API를 활용한 웹 플랫폼 및 웹 어플리케이션을 제작하였다. 또한 기관별 결과보고서에서 확인된 지중 흰개미 모니터링 방안으로는 탐지견, 육안관찰, 예찰기, 극초단파 장비 등이 지중 흰개미의 유입 유무 파악 방안으로 적용되고 있으나 유입된 지중 흰개미 군체의 영역 범위를 판단할 모니터링 조사 방안은 현재 적용되고 있지 않은 것으로 확인되었다. 이에 따라 지중 흰개미 군체 모니터링 조사 시, 대상 목조문화재의 가해 영역 범위 산정 등 현황 파악을 위한 염색약 처리 및 Mark-Release-Recapture법의 적용이 필요할 것으로 판단된다.