• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.902-915
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• 2007

This study examines decorative features found in the traditional costume of the Miao, one of the minority groups in China, and adapts them for the development of modern Korean-style fashion designs in order to present visual sample data and to introduce techniques. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined: the former includes Miao-related books and theses; the latter, pictures from various documents and real-life data in the possession of Seoul Women's University. The study result is as follows: 1. The basic structure of Miao costume is consist of a Caftan-type upper garment and an accentuated lower garment, pleats skirt although they are decorated luxuriously with various techniques such as delicate embroidery and dyeing. 2. Details and trimmings in modern shapes are developed and presented by adding modern materials to satin, twists, cross-stitch embroidery, stripe patterns, geometrical patchwork, machine pleats and smoking, trimmings of fringe & feather, and the border line decoration of coloration, braids, piping, embroidery, belts tied and wound with colorful threads. 3. Detachable accessaries such as front reinforcement strips, back reinforcement strips, belts, decorative aprons and patchwork skirts are developed and designed by adapting highlighted layered effects. 4. The silver decoration used as an necessary by the Miao is suitable for modern fashion design in futuristic sense. Various techniques and decorative features of Miao costume display their true value all the more in modern fashion stream in which ethnic trends draw much attention.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.29-45
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is for providing not only the latest design technique trend for zero waste fashion, but information about creative fashion design education through eco-fashion industry trend in globally and domestic which is focusing on eco-fashion labelling. The research were processed with literature related eco, sustainable, green fashion books, former articles, newspapers, and web sites. The results as follows; The certification about eco-fashion product is moving to 'Life Cycle Assessment' from focused on primary process like material, finishing, dyeing. Especially simplicity of process means reducing the wastes. And fabric wastage for adult outwear was estimated 15% percent of total fabric used in general design studios. Three cases for Zero waste fashion were as follows; First, Jigsaw puzzle by Timo Rissane and Mark Liu were different zero waste methods, but the result was same. Rissene's method was based on traditional cutting like 'cut and sew' but traditional cutting can lead to design that have an abundance of fabric and drape. Jigsaw of Rissene was approached with description a pattern-cutting technique in which all piece interlock with each other generating no waste from design production. Another Jigsaw by Liu was related with innovative textile design. DTP makes the possibilities for zero waste garment production almost endless. The dress intricately cut from 10 pieces, wastes none of the fabric required to make it. Second, Subtraction Cutting by Julian Roberts provides unexpected fluid, organic forms and zero waste fabric. Utilizing Roberts plug(tunnel) technique enables any part of the garment that is removed for fit or aesthetics to be reincorporated into the design of garment. Third was 'Bio Couture' by Suzanne Lee. She has created garments from cellulose bacteria which grow in a bathtub using only green methods addressing in such as way ecological issues and exploring the future of fashion design in conjunction with technology.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.6
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• pp.81-99
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• 2004

For making something to use as a tool since the emergence of mankind, the initial pragmatic purpose has transformed into a new genre of art over time. Things defined like this have rooted in our culture as tradition so far. In the midst of today's various trends, a reflection of tradition and a modern search for tradition by re-creating it are much more needed. To any people in any time, a new trend would undeniably develop on the basis of its previous tradition in any form. The colors appearing in such artwork are also an expression of each people's unconscious potentiality as essential grounds for human aesthetic. The traditional Korean Bojaki, which was made out of women's pragmatic mind trying to recycle trashy pieces of cloth in the 19th century of Chosun Dynasty, appears as a symbolization of our nation's original form in unconsciousness. It includes Confucianism, Buddhism, Zen and the Yin-Yang and Five Elements thought, which have been together with naturalism. The five colors appearing in the Yin-Yang and Five Elements are the basis. Fourteen selected samples around the five colors seen in the color scheme of the Chosun era's Bojaki were measured and their color values were found by analyzing them based on HCV(Hue, Chroma, Value)of the five primary colors as well as the five secondary colors. After choosing a few colors with bare eyes close to traditional Primary Colors and Secondary Colors amongst 14 pieces of data which particularly used traditional Five Colors and examining them using spectrophotometer(JX777), the following conclusions were drawn. Comparing only colors in Primary Colors, the result was red 7.11R 4.59/10.69, blue 6.71PB 3.18/6.45, yellow 3.91Y 7.56/6.12, respectively. With regard to Secondary Colors, it was reported that red 7.96RP 5.42/10.3, blue 7.8B 5.16/5.53, green 8.03GY 6.05/4.34, yellow 2.73Y 7.47/4.07, purple 2.39RP 4.69/4.56, respectively. (diagram) As a result, the standard of Five Colors can be used in modern fiber color. There are differences in dyeing material, methods and kinds of fiber of that time, but women of Chosun Dynasty combined and made fabric which was circulated. Consequently, an applicable attribute of the aye-color values was considered.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.634-638
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• 2006

The significance of this study is the demonstration of a new method of preservation procedure for national-treasure-class cultural-assets by examining the characteristics of the Jeogori relic, presumed to be that of King SeJo, and validating the preservation process. This Jergori as well as the wooden Munsu-donja Buddha statue from which they were found are designated as national treasure. The Jeogori relic is made of light silk and dimensions mark 77 cm in length, 67 cm in width, and 94 cm in sleeve length. It is a typical Jeogori worn in the Chosun Dynasty. Preservation procedure was in the following order: Removing dust and pollutants by vacuum, washing, removing creases, reinforcing the clothes, settling at paulownia backboard, and packing. Storage and exhibition of remains was executed with as minimal folding as possible, and microbiological damage prevention was performed by dyeing antibacterial treatment with eugenol onto supporting cloth. The relic, conservatively treated in accordance with the above procedure, is currently kept at the storage facility of the citadel Museum in the Woljeong Temple. It is displayed annually to the general public for approximately two weeks.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.47 no.5
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• pp.120-126
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• 2015

In this study, we used various dyes from natural pigments such as tumeric, goldthread, indigo, pagoda tree flower, sappanwood, and safflower to make the Hanji wallpaper with super eight colors of yellow, orange, green, turquoise, violet, red, blue, and magenta. As a result of measuring the lightfastness, magenta dyed with sappanwood showed the worst effect, but blue dyed with only indigo showed the best effect. In terms of the spot test by water, red wallpaper dyed with safflower showed the clear spot, but blue, turquoise, and green dyed with indigo resulted in a little spot. The orange, violet, and magenta dyed with goldthread and sappanwood showed antibacterial activity, and the turquoise, green, and blue also has a little antibacterial activity. However, yellow and red didn't show the some result as expected. In the experiment for efficiency of formaldehyde removal, all Hanji wallpapers dyed with natural pigments showed the significant removal effect of formaldehyde, especially turquoise and red were the highest.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.716-721
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• 2007

This study was conducted to obtain the basic data on the development of resources of wild edible greens, and the industrialization of the marketing of fresh wild vegetables. We have also investigated the distributing factors at five-day traditional markets (Taebaek, Hongcheon and Hoengseong) in Gangwon district, and in Jeonnam district (Naju, Damyang and Jangseong), in May and June 2007. At each market, there were 34 to 49 diverse shops selling fresh wild vegetables except at Naju, where there were 22 shops. Between 27 to 29 kinds of fresh wild vegetable were on sale at the traditional markets in Gangwon district, and 15 to 19 kinds were on sale along with many horticultural plants in Jeonnam district. Fresh wild vegetables including Aster scaber, Petasites japonicus, Pteridium aquilinum var. latussculum, Malva verticillata, leaves of Perilla frutescens, Lactuca sativa, leaves of Capsicum annuum, and Oenanthe javanica were on sale in the markets in both districts. Those selling fresh wild vegetables were typically over 51 years of age (88%), and among these over 66.4% were over 61 years old. Less than 6 kinds of fresh wild vegetable accounted for over 72.1% of the vegetables sold. Edible wild greens were mainly packed in vinyl bags (over 77%).

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.321-328
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• 2012

A $SO_2$ gas acceleration test was carried out on four textile groups (silk, cotton, ramie cloth, hemp cloth) which were categoried in five categories by the dyeing materials (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black) and the relation between the concentration of $SO_2$ and deterioration rate was evaluated. The textiles were exposed to 0.01, 0.12, 1, 10, 100, 1000, and 5000 ppm of $SO_2$ for 24 hours and the optical, physical, and chemical deterioration rates were studied. An optical change was identified as the color difference and grey scale rating (colorfastness) enhanced with the increase of gas concentration while there was little physical change. Chemical damage was caused by the acidification of the textile material due to the trapped sulfate ion concentration. The result of optical, physical, and chemical deterioration rates shows that 1 ppm/day $SO_2$ is a critical level of deterioration of traditional textiles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.844-859
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• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.408-415
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• 2013

In order to evaluate a feasibility of industrial art use of veneer such as cylindrical laminated veneer lumber, the veneers of 4 species of Korean pine, radiata pine, yellow poplar and Japanese cypress were natural dye-colored and clear finished. Natural dyes were red color originated from sappanwood, blue color from polygonum indigo, and yellow color from Amur cork tree and gardenia. the clear coats of crack seal clear and UV protection oil were applied on the dyed veneer. The dyeing and finishing characteristics through fading test were summarized as follows; In non-dyed and non-finished Korean pine veneer, lightness was decreased and yellow and red hues increased after fading test. In natural dyed- and finished-veneer, color difference of gardenia-mixed Amur cork tree was generally highest, and that of polygonum indigo was lowest. Compared to non-treatment of veneers of Korean pine and yellow poplar, color difference decreasing effect by finishing was shown in crack seal clear and UV protection oil. In addition, UV protection oil was more favorable than crack seal clear with more decreased color difference. In result, maximum values of color difference after fading for 8 days were recorded about 16 to 20, which are remarked 'very much' of 12.1 or more when reviewing with 'National bureau of standards unit in USA'.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.55-61
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• 2008

This study was conducted to compare the nutrient and chemical contents of traditional Chungtaejeon tea with that of green tea which was harvested in Jangheung, Jeonnam district. Vitamin C, amino acids and total nitrogen contents of Chungtaejeon tea were lower than that of green tea by 0.30, 2.30 and 4.20g/100g, respectively. The tannin, caffeine, reducing sugar and chlorophyll contents in Chungtaejeon tea were the same as those in green tea. Comparing catechin contents, catechin (C), epicatechin (EC), and epigallocatechin (EGC) in Chungtaejeon tea were lower than those of green tea. However, gallocatechin (GC), epicatechin gallate (ECG), epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) and catechin gallate (CG) showed no significant difference between Chungtaejeon tea and green tea. The flavonoid contents of Chungtaejeon tea and green tea showed higher quercetin and kaempferol contents in green tea, and higher myricetin content in Chungtaejeon tea. The measured amino acid contents for threonine and aspartic acid were lower, and for glutamic acid were higher in Chungtaejeon tea compared with those in green tea. However, free amino acid content in Chungtaejeon tea and green tea showed no significant difference. Potassium and magnesium contents in Chungtaejeon tea were lower compared to green tea but no significant difference was found for iron, manganese or calcium contents when comparing the two teas.