• Title/Summary/Keyword: Korean traditional clothing

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Women's Image and Fashion Expressed in Popular Park Hyewon Weekly Magazine 'Sunday-Seoul' -From First Issue, 1968 to 168 Issue, 1971- (통속 주간지 『선데이 서울』 화보와 기사에 나타난 여성이미지와 패션 -1968년 창간호부터 1971년 168호까지-)

  • Park, Hyewon
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.23 no.5
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    • pp.31-47
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    • 2019
  • This study focuses on women and fashion in Korea between the 1960s and 1970s, when the government regulated the socio-cultural aspects of individuals while achieving remarkable economic industrialization, particularly through the representative popular weekly magazine 'Sunday-Seoul'. The scope of this study included 168 issues from September 22, 1968 to December 26, 1971. Two research methods were applied, literature research and content analysis research. First, the literature on Korean society, culture, women's fashion, the sociological, feminine and popular cultural studies were reviewed. Thereafter, the contents, cover, articles, pictorials were collected and analyzed for classification and identification of the women's images and women's fashion. In the case of fashion articles, the contents of vocabulary and description texts were highlighted, and in the case of pictorials, the visual elements such as images, silhouettes of clothes, details of features, and patterns of materials were assessed. The images of women in Sunday Seoul's articles and pictorials exhibited extreme opposite, presenting the most important purpose of marriage, 'wise mother and good wife' and 'image of sexual object' for men. The two images of women differed; however, there was one more female image 'industrial laborer' which was placed in the blind spot of interest. The characteristics of fashion which appeared in 'Sunday-Seoul' were 'uniform modern elegance' based on neat mini-style, and 'sexual image of exposure fashion' which endeavored to selectively borrow from overseas pictorials and trend-oriented articles. This could be viewed as a 'transformation of traditional Hanbok', 'avant-garde trend' and 'de-sexualization & indifference of fashion'.

Development of modern women's Hanbok design by analyzing design elements (디자인 요소 분석을 통한 현대여자한복 디자인 개발)

  • Park, Eunju;Rhee, Youngju
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.30 no.3
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    • pp.348-365
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    • 2022
  • The purpose of this study is to develop Korean clothing designs that can satisfy future consumer's needs based on the elements extracted through the content analysis method in a study on the design elements expressed in traditional outfits in the 2010s. To this end, data analyzing Hanbok in wedding magazines were used, and after extracting design elements, research methods for empirical design development were used. After subclassifying the major design elements, factors with a steady increase in frequency and appearance rate were identified. Through this, five elements capable of aesthetic sampling were extracted by complex expression methods and expressed in a total of seven combinations. The types extracted from the design elements are items, silhouette, top shape, skirt shape, skirt length, mixed items with increasing frequency. In the element of color, the adjacent color harmony, which showed the highest frequency of color, and the white-blue harmony, which showed an increase among them, were extracted. When using materials, top and skirt have similar usage rates of the same and different materials, so both contents were extracted, and many patterns were arranged in the top and the whole, but these three were extracted because there were increasing cases where there were no patterns. In the case of decoration, embroidery, pintuck, sakdong, applique, lace, ribbon on the top, silver foil and print on the skirt were extracted. Through this study, it was possible to propose a future Korean costume design model.

A Study on Traditional Costume of the Miaos, one of China's Minorities (중국(中國) 소수민족(少數民族)인 묘족(苗族)의 민족복식(民族服飾)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Boo, Ae-Jin
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.71-75
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    • 1998
  • The Miaos who is the minority people mainly living in the southwestern part of China, expressed their indicator and solidarity through the costume in order to maintain their racial character while experiencing numerous adversities over thousands of years, where the costume has served as a source of cohesion as well as a primitive religious thought, and also showed their faith, desire, longing and aspiration. This study examined the Miao's traditional costume by classifying it into the following; hair style, headdress, upper and lower garments, and other costume. And the silver ornaments used for attire and their symbolic meaning were examined. The result of the study is summarized as follows. 1. The reason that types of the costume has been diversified is because there was promise of ancestors who intended to differently express the type of a kind as symbol of the racial branch that is the Miao's special type of society. Thus, the costume type could tell where a tribe live. Another reason is because only marriage between families with different surname but the same type of costume was accepted. 2. As women made and wore the costume themselves, it also served as a means of being proud of their skill or wealth, they tried to make it more beautiful and it was also used as a token of marriage or love between relatively enlightened men and women. 3. The design used on the costume was expressed as a symbolic meaning of indicator to strengthen the racial solidarity because it connoted worship to ancestors who had experienced lots of adversities. 4. The hair style was expressed in various styles by using Kache such as Chukye, Byunbal and Kokye. It is likely that ornaments used on the head of women in the form of cow's horn or silver crown were used as one of the methods to stress the valuableness of the cattle that were essential to agricultural life. In addition, various styles of turbans were used to indicate the respective regions. 5. Cock's feather ornaments or silver ornaments in the form of pheasant's feather on the edge of women's skirts, peasant's feathers that men wore on their head, or Baekjoui and men wore resulted from the Miaos' thought of adoration for birds, which implied a primitive religious meaning. 6. As the region where the Miaos live yields much silver, the silver ornaments were mostly used to be proud of wealth, which symbolized light and pureness.

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The Effects of Kisaeng's Clothes on General Women's Fashion in the Late Choson Dynasty (조선후기 기여복식이 일반부녀자 복식에 미친 영향)

  • 김나형;김용서
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.39
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    • pp.113-123
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    • 1998
  • This study focuses on the effects of the clothes worn by kisaeng; courtesans trained in singing and dancing, on changes in female psychology as reflected in general women's fashions during the later years of the Chosun dynasty. During this period, the social order had broken down considerable, due in part to the introduction of Roman Catholicism, and in part to the actions of Sil-hak, who emphasized open-ness and practicality in the organization of social affairs. This freer social environment disrup-ted the established social hierarchies. The kisaeng were among the first to respond to the new social mores by adopting more colorful, sensual, and individualized fashions. Their social position allowed them to reflect the new aesthetics of the time right away. Those aesthetics seemed to lay great emphasis on the artistic effects of contrast. The kisaeng would adorn their heads with large Kache (an elaborate wig or hairdo typically reserved for use by women in full formal dress). In contrast to this conspicuous hairstyle, they typically wore very tight-fitting Jogori (short-cropped Korean traditional jackets for women) around their upper torsos. The long skirts emerging from beneath these short jackets would typically flare out dramatically, with the aid of petticoats. However, these skirts would be bound at the waist with a sash, increasing the sexual suggestiveness of the clothing by drawing at-tention to the hips, and by exposing the bottom frills of the petticoats, or the wide pantal-oons and other undergarments the kisaeng wore to add volume to their skirts. The relative freedom enjoyed by the kisaeng to experiment with new fashions was not widely shared by most women. This generated envy from women of the noble classes, who were more bound by convention, and restrained from adopting such a mode of dress. It also generated envy from women of the humble classes, who saw the kisaeng as working little for their wealth, and yet dressing every day in finery that the average women would only ever be able to afford on her wedding day. This envy directed at the relative freedom/wealth of the kisaeng by women who faced greater socioeconomic constraints was given cultural expression through the adoption of elements of the kisaeng's fashion in the fashions of both noblewomen and humble women in old korea. The luxurious Kache sported by the kisaeng had in fact been borrowed from the habitual attire of upper-class women. So to distinguish themeselves from the kisaeng, they began to abandon these elaborate hairstyles in favor of traditional ceremonial hoods (Nel-ul-a thin black women's hood) and coronets (Suegaechima). This supposed reaction to the abuse of the Kache by the kisaeng still remained influenced by the kisaeng still remained influence by the kisaeng, however, as these headdresses became adorned with many more jewels and decorations, in imitation of the kisaeng's adaptations of the coronet. At the same time, noblewomen began sporting the Jangwue ; a headdress previously worn only by kisaeng and lower class women, and lower class women were then permitted to wear the Kache at weddings. All women behan to wear shorter, tighter Jogori jackets, and to add volume to their skirts. They also attached frills to their under-garments in imitation of the kisaeng's exposed petticoats and pantaloons. The impact of kisaeng fashions was thus deep and widespread, and can be understood as an expression of women's longing for freedom from socioeconomic constraints in the late Chosun dynasty. This study adopts an interdisciplinary ap-proach to the understanding of historical changes in women's fashions. Such interdisciplinary work can greatly enrich the study of fashion, often narrowly focused on clothing morphology and broad generalizations about society. For this reason, specific dynamics of feminine psychology in the late Chosun dynasty were elaborated in this study, to provide a deeper under-standing of the changes in fashion underpinned by them. If more such detailed analyses are undertaken, a whole new understanding of changes in fashion can be generated, and perhaps a transformation of the field of fashion history can be ultimately achieved.

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Scarf designs reflecting the design preferences of new senior women (뉴 시니어 여성의 디자인 선호도를 반영한 스카프 디자인)

  • Kim, Eun Hye;Kwon, Young Suk
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.23 no.4
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    • pp.661-672
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    • 2015
  • In this study, nine scarf designs expected to be effective for accent design for the fashion style of new senior women were suggested by reflecting purchase behavior and scarf preference after conducting surveys and an analysis by targeting 136 new senior women in order to propose scarf design-matching with the preferences of new seniors. As a result of the study on the scarf purchase features of new seniors, it was revealed that the purchase time for scarves was mainly autumn and winter, even though it is regardless of season, and in spring and summer, they seldom purchased scarves. The purchase frequency was four times a year, and what they first thought of at the time of purchase was represented in the order of color, design, and the material of the scarf. They most preferred department stores, mixed and achromatic colors, cotton and silk fabrics, natural and geometric patterns, and long scarves of a rectangular shape. In the case of the consumer attributes of scarves, it was revealed that $50^{th}$ desired more individuality-oriented, unique scarf designs than $60^{th}$, and $60^{th}$ desired scarf designs with convenient management considering others' attention compared with $50^{th}$. As concepts for scarf designs, the aspects of individuality, co-existence, and maturity were extracted by reflecting the features of new senior women, and a total of nine scarf designs were suggested by developing three sub-designs for each concept.

The Effects of Luxury Brand Marketing Mix on the Formation of Customer Equity - Focusing on Luxury Brand's Product Consumers in 20~40's - (럭셔리 브랜드 마케팅 믹스가 고객자산 형성에 미치는 영향 - 20~40대 럭셔리 브랜드 제품 소비자를 중심으로 -)

  • Hwang, Yookyung
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.15 no.1
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    • pp.103-115
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    • 2013
  • This study identifies how the luxury brand marketing mix affects customer equity drivers and suggests intangible equity management strategies so that companies can make long-term profits through luxury brands based on empirical studies of Korean luxury consumers. The results of the study are as follows: First, this study classified the properties that use 8 key factors (product integrity, heritage, exclusivity, premium image, environment and consumption experience, premium price, luxury communication strategy, and brand signature). Second, it shows that product integrity and luxury communication strategy have a positive effect on all customer equity drivers, that brand signature has a positive effect on value equity and brand equity, and that premium price has a negative effect on relation equity. It is important to provide products and services equipped with high quality and luxurious designs based on excellent craftsmanship in order to establish brand equity and value equity. Brand identity needs to be maintained and unique brand signatures need to be developed based on the long history of luxury brands against a traditional backdrop. A diversified communication strategy improves brand recognition while playing a part in facilitating brand association and brand image. In order to improve relationship equity, actions such as a loyalty program to strengthen brand loyalty, need to be taken as well as measures to maintain and enhance customer trust through a reasonable price strategy.

Antimicrobial Activity of High Density Polyethylene Fabric Containing Scutellaria Baicalensis Extract-Loaded Zeolite Microparticles (황금추출물 담지 제올라이트 마이크로입자를 함유한 고밀도 폴리에틸렌 원단의 항균 특성)

  • Lee, Sook-Young;Jo, Mi-Rae;Kim, Hyun-Jin;Kwon, Tae-Yub;Han, Hyunjung;Yoon, Young Il;Son, Jun Sik
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.29 no.4
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    • pp.247-255
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    • 2017
  • Scutellaria Baicalensis(SB) is widely used in traditional and modern oriental medicine. It possesses several biology activities such as anti-oxidative, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antiviral activities. In this study, a functional high density polyethylene (HDPE) fabric with antimicrobial properties was developed using zeolite microparticles as a SB extract delivery carrier. Zeolites loaded with SB extract were prepared by immersing in an SB extract aqueous solution. The average size of the SB extract-loaded zeolites was about 0.1 to $2.0{\mu}m$, and the morphology of the zeolites was not altered after SB extract binding. The resulting SB extract-loaded zeolites were then immobilized homogeneously onto the HDPE fabric using acrylic binder. The encapsulation efficiency of SB extract to the zeolite was more than 45%. The in vitro release test of SB extract-loaded zeolites containing HDPE fabrics showed release of 35% of the total SB extract by day 1 in a 24hours immersion study. Moreover, the SB extract-loaded zeolites containing HDPE fabrics showed effective antimicrobial activity against Streptococcus mutans, Staphylococcus aureus, and Klebsiella pneumoniae, indicating that this innovative delivery platform potently imparted antimicrobial activity to the HDPE fabric. In conclusion, the current study suggests that the HDPE fabric containing the SB extract-loaded zeolites microparticle carrier system has potential as an effective antimicrobial textile such as safety gloves, protective gloves etc.

Impacts of Information Source and E-service Quality on Mobile Shopping Behavior in KakaoTalk

  • Yi, Kyong-Hwa;Jeon, Sua;Kim, HaeJung Maria;Forney, Judith
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.20 no.6
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    • pp.32-51
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    • 2016
  • KakaoTalk has become a reputed mobile social network and an inseparable part of people's lives by leading the mobile industry in South Korea. However, there is a lack of studies in academia regarding perception of the consumers and assessment toward the mobile marketing and services by KakaoTalk. Based on the theoretical orientation of Elaboration Likelihood Model (ELM: Petty & Cacioppo, 1986) and electronic service quality (E-S-QUAL: Parasuraman, Zeithaml, & Malhotra, 2005), this study investigates the effects of information sources (Charles & Richard, 1988), and examines the consumer perception toward the service quality of KakaoTalk. A total of 209 responses were collected, using a self-administered survey in Seoul and Gyeonggi province, South Korea from March 2015 to June 2015. A seven-point Likert scale survey was developed to measure the information sources (i.e., argument quality, post popularity, and post attractiveness), electronic service quality (i.e., efficiency, fulfillment, privacy, and system availability), attitude (i.e., usefulness, preference, and overall attitude), and behavioral intention (i.e., like intention, share intention, and purchase intention). This study reveals a consensus that an online environment is different from the traditional retail context in terms of information source and service quality. Specifically, the results indicate that argument quality greatly impacts the attitudes of the individuals and their behavioral intention toward mobile shopping via social media channel. The most powerful factor among E-S-QUAL is "efficiency." This dimension of service quality influences the customer perception of usefulness and preference as well as share and like intention toward mobile shopping on KakaoTalk.

Digital Hanbok Modeling for Virtual Characters : A Knowledge-driven Approach (가상캐릭터의 디지털 한복 모델링을 위한 지식기반 접근법)

  • Lee Bo-Ran;Oh Sue-Jung;Nam Yang-Hee
    • The KIPS Transactions:PartB
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    • v.11B no.6
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    • pp.683-690
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    • 2004
  • Garment modeling and simulation is now one of the important elements in broad range of digital contents. Though there have been recent products on garment simulation, general users do not know well enough how to design a virtual costume that meets some requirements about its specific clothing pattern. In particular, Hanbok - the Korean traditional costume - has many different characteristics against western ones in the aspect of its pattern design and of draping. This paper presents a knowledge-driven approach for virtual Hanbok modeling without knowing how to make real Hanbok. First, parameterized knowledge for several fabric types art solicited using visual similarity assessment from simulated and real cloth. Secondly, based on the analysis of designer's knowledge, we defined multi-level adjustment processes of Hanbok measurements with regard to body shape features for different virtual actors. An experimental system is developed as the form of a Maya plug-in and the result shows the applicability of the proposed method.

Classification of Upper Body Somatotypes according to the Age Group : Using 3D-Body Scan Data

  • Na, Hyun-Shin
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.5 no.1
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2005
  • Two hundreds of female aged 19 years old and up were recruited to evaluate the postural changes and bilateral variation of asymmetry over age. To find out the differences among the age group, subjects were classified into 5 groups, early young age(19-29), late young age(30-39), early middle age(40-49), late middle age(50-59), and old age(60-). 35 body measurements were taken by the 3-D body scanner which allowed us to take measurements which cannot be measured using traditional methods, including the shape of a cross section, slice area surface are, and volume. Bilateral variations were observed as a function of age; Depth of scapular point level, scapular point to center back, and blade angle. Postural change of anterior cervical angle, upper anterior thoracic angle, upper posterior thoracic angle, posterior cervical angle, and center back/center front ratio were also exhibited. In each measurements, subjects were classified into normal, and abnormal group. Percentiles of abnormal in shoulder line angle, blade angle, neck point $\∼$ acromial point $\∼$ scapular point, posterior cervical angle, and upper posterior thoracic angle were increased over age group. The upper body of lateral view was classified into 3 types of posture based on the previous research; straight, erect(leaning back), and stooped(bent forward). The percentiles of subjects who have straight postures were decreased as a function of age, but those of stooped postures were increased. Subjects who have erect postures did not so. The stooped posture group shows the big cervical fossa angle, anterior cervical angle, posterior cervical angle, upper posterior thoracic angle, and the small upper anterior thoracic angle comparing to the straight and erect posture group. These results could be apply for clothing construction reflecting the changes in back, shoulder, neck, and the bilateral asymmetry according to the target age group.