• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제5호
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• pp.217-229
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• 2007

Many historical research and facet about modern art in Indonesia which formulating background of contemporary Indonesian Art. Indonesian art critic Sanento Yuliman states that Modern art has been rapidly developing in Indonesia since the Indonesian Independence in 1945. Modern Art is a part of the super culture of the Indonesian metropolitan and is closely related to the contact between the Indonesian and Western Cultures. Its birth was part of the nationalism project, when the Indonesian people consists of various ethnics were determined to become a new nation, the Indonesian nation, and they wished for a new culture, and therefore, a new art. The period 1960s, which was the beginning of the creation and development of the painters and the painters associations, was the first stage of the development of modern art in Indonesia. The second stage showed the important role of the higher education institutes for art. These institutes have developed since the 1950s and in the 1970s they were the main education institutes for painters and other artists. The artists awareness of the medium, forms or the organization of shapes were encouraged more intensely and these encouraged the exploring and experimental attitudes. Meanwhile, the information about the world's modern art, particularly Western Art; was widely and rapidly spread. The 1960s and 1970s were marked by the development of various abstractions and abstract art and the great number of explorations in various new media, like the experiment with collage, assemblage, mixed media. The works of the Neo Art Movement-group in the second half of the 1970s and in the 1980s shows environmental art and installations, influenced by the elements of popular art, from the commercial world and mass media, as well as the involvement of art in the social and environmental affairs. The issues about the environment, frequently launched by the intellectuals in the period of economic development starting in the 1970s, echoed among the artists, and they were widened in the social, art and cultural circles. The Indonesian economic development following the important change in the 1970s has caused a change in the life of the middle and upper class society, as has the change in various aspects of a big city, particularly Jakarta. The new genre emerged in 1975 which indicates contemporary art in Indonesia, when a group of young artists organized a movement, which was widely known as the Indonesian New Art Movement. This movement criticized international style, universalism and the long standing debate on an east-west-dichotomy. As far as the actual practice of the arts was concerned the movement criticized the domination of the art of painting and saw this as a sign of stagnation in Indonesian art development. Based on this criticism 'the movement' introduced ready-mades and installations (Jim Supangkat). Takes almost two decades that the New Art Movement activists were establishing Indonesian Installation art genre as contemporary paradigm and influenced the 1980's gene ration like, FX Harsono, Dadang Christanto, Arahmaiani, Tisna Sanjaya, Diyanto, Andarmanik, entering the 1990's decade as "rebellion period" ; reject towards established aesthetic mainstream i.e. painting, sculpture, graphic art which are insufficient to express "new language" and artistic needs especially to mediate social politic and cultural situation. Installation Art which contains open possibilities of creation become a vehicle for aesthetic establishment rejection and social politics stagnant expression in 1990s. Installation art accommodates two major field; first, the rejection of aesthetic establishment has a consequences an artists quest for medium; deconstruction models and cross disciplines into multi and intermedia i.e. performance, music, video etc. Second aspect is artists' social politic intention for changes, both conclude as characteristics of Indonesian Installation Art and establishing the freedom of expression in contemporary Indonesian Art until today.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.36-59
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• 2021

온양민속박물관 소장 <해주팔경도(海州八景圖)>의 분석과 해석을 통해 해주팔경의 기원과 제작 시기를 유추하고, 팔경도에 담긴 경물과 풍물을 비정(批正)함으로써 해주팔경의 경관상과 집경(集景) 의의를 탐구한 결과는 다음과 같다. 지금까지 알려진 해주 집경의 원전(原典)은 구사맹(1531~1604)의 「해주팔영」으로 확인된다. 1782년에 쓰인 유만주의 『흠영』에서는 이를 고팔경(古八景)으로 지칭하고 해주팔경을 금팔경(今八景)으로 규정했는데, 이는 문헌으로 확인되는 가장 이른 시기 해주의 읍치팔경이다. <해주팔경도>는 '남강에서의 뱃놀이(南江泛舟)', '부용당에서의 연꽃 구경(芙蓉賞蓮)', '광석천에서의 발 씻기(廣石濯足)', '해운교에서의 석별(泣川送客)', '해운정에서의 낚시(東亭釣魚)', '남산에서의 바다 구경(南山望海)'으로 구성되어 있다. 결본된 2폭은 '영해루에서의 달 구경(瀛海玩月)'과 '백림정에서의 백일장과 활쏘기(栢林觀德)'를 담은 것으로 추정된다. 해주팔경에서 배제된 고팔경의 수양채미, 신광제설, 지성폭포는 모두 수양산을 대상장으로 펼쳐진 풍경이다. 이렇듯 <해주팔경도>는 수양산 권역에서 벗어나 읍치(邑治) 중심의 승경 재편(再編) 결과로 부용당, 영해루, 백림정과 읍성 주변의 탁열정, 해운정 등의 누(樓)·정(亭)·당(堂)의 읍치 내외 누정이 명실상부한 해주의 승경으로 부상되었을 뿐 아니라 완사석, 비류담, 석빙고, 봉대, 탁마지, 읍수, 부용당, 해운정의 지당과 중도의 형태, 다양한 형상의 선박, 특산주 등 해주를 대표하는 세부 경물을 담고자 한 치밀함이 드러난다. <해주팔경도>에 묘사된 풍경은 해주목의 유서 깊고 탁월한 명소가 대부분이지만 일상 생활과 관련된 생활경(生活景)의 모습도 적절히 안배되었다. 또한 탁족(濯足), 조어(釣魚), 표모(漂母), 상련(賞蓮), 송객(送客), 주유(舟遊), 음주(飮酒), 망해(望海), 완월(玩月), 사예(射藝), 시작(詩作), 음다(飮茶), 가무(歌舞) 등 다채로운 풍류 행위를 담고 있다. 고팔경과 비교해볼 때 해주팔경은 4계절 경관 배분을 고려치 않았을 뿐 아니라 소상전형(瀟湘典型)의 결속성 또한 와해(瓦解)되었다. 해운정의 건립과 영해루의 퇴락(頹落) 시기에 착안할 때 <해주팔경도>는 18세기 초·중반에 제작된 것으로 조심스럽게 추정된다. <해주팔경도>는 관념적 이상향에서 벗어나 명승고적과 풍물 등 해주의 대표적 풍광을 골라 보여줌으로써 지역민에게 친밀감을 강화시키고 해주인(海州人)으로서의 긍지를 진작(振作)시키는 데 이바지한 그림으로 판단된다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.243-263
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• 2022

조선 왕실에서는 영원불멸한 왕의 존재와 권위를 나타내고자 일월오봉도로 병풍을 만들어 왕의 공간마다 설치하였다. 일월오봉도는 궁궐의 가장 대표적인 의장물로 알려져 있지만, 다양한 형태로 제작했던 병풍의 실체에 대해서는 제대로 연구된 바가 없다. 이것은 현재 전하는 유물이 기록과 일치하지 않은 경우가 많기 때문이다. 본 글에서는 의궤를 중심으로, 왕실 의례에 사용했던 일월오봉도 병풍의 다양한 생김새와 장황 재료에 대해 살펴보았다. 그리고 그동안 제대로 알려지지 않았던 일월오봉도 병풍의 원형과 변형 과정까지 함께 고찰하였다. 의례용으로 제작한 왕실의 병풍들은 예식과 법도에 따라 엄격하게 제작되었고, 각각이 갖는 위상에 따라 장황에 사용하는 재료 또한 차등을 두었다. 궁궐의 정전(正殿)과 빈전(殯殿), 혼전(魂殿), 진전(眞殿)에 설치했던 오봉병과 궁중연향을 위해 제작했던 오봉병은 생김새와 크기는 모두 다르지만, 병풍을 꾸미는 비단 회장(回粧)은 일치하였다. 대체로 초록색 비단으로 가장자리를 두르고, 그 위에 꽃문양의 금박을 장식하였다. 쪽풀로 염색한 초록색 비단은 원료를 수입해야 하는 값비싼 붉은 색 비단을 대신하였으며, 영조22년 '문단(紋緞) 금지 조치' 이후에는 무늬없는 초록색 평직 비단을 사용했다. 그나마 비단에 올린 금박 첩금으로 인해 사대부가의 병풍과 차별되는 궁중 의례용 병풍의 장식미를 더하였다. 일제강점기 동안 방치되었던 조선왕실의 병풍들은 1960년대부터 유물을 관리하는 차원에서, 보존처리가 이루어졌다. 그 과정에서 장황이 개장(改粧)되었고, 원형의 모습을 많이 잃게 되었다. 이것은 전통의 장황 문화가 단절된 것이 가장 주된 원인이었다. 과거에는 고증의 부족으로 문화재를 온전하게 보존하는 데 한계가 있었다면, 지금부터는 각 분야에 축적된 연구 성과를 바탕으로 고증을 철저히 하고, 문화재의 수리 이력에 대한 정보까지 체계적으로 보존하고, 관리하는 노력이 필요할 것이다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.100-121
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• 2023

본 논문은 조선 후기 설립된 영희전 감실 및 이안소의 공간 구성과 이곳에 사용된 오봉산병풍의 특징을 고찰하였다. 이 과정에서 18세기 중엽 태조진전이 영희전의 예를 따라 오봉산병풍을 배설한 내용과 18세기 이전 태조진전의 감실 모습을 확인할 수 있었으며 영희전 감실 구성의 연원도 살펴보았다. 영희전 감실은 태조진전 및 선원전과 달리, 당가 없이 온돌바닥 위로 난간이 달린 평상 형태를 한 대형의 용상을 놓았다. 이 용상 위로 4첩 오봉산병풍을 가운데 2첩은 뒤로 펴고 좌우 각 1첩은 나누어 펴 '⊓' 형태로 배설하였다. 난간을 단 평상 위로 첩병풍을 펼치는 배설 방식은 영희전 감실 조성 당시 태조진전이 아닌, 빈전 영침의 구성을 참조했을 가능성을 시사했다. 한편, 어진의 이안 시에는 용상보다 규모와 장식을 간략하게 한 난간평상을 사용했다. 이안소에는 감실과 같이 4첩 오봉산병풍을 '⊓' 형태로 설치했으나 평상 위에 올리지 않고 뒤편에서 난간평상을 감싼 형태로 펼친 후 어진을 봉안한 흑장궤를 그 위에 올렸다. 이 같은 배설 방식이 반영된 감실과 이안 소용 오봉산병풍은 모두 대형의 4첩 왜장 병풍으로 가운데 두 폭이 넓고 좌우로 접어 펴는 1·4폭이 좁은 형태였다. 장황은 별도의 하회장 없이 병풍 가장자리를 따라 회장을 둘렀다. 감실과 이안 소용 오봉산병풍은 장황과 배접 등의 재료에 일부 차이를 두어 배설 장소의 위상을 반영하였다. 문헌 기록에 대한 고찰을 통해 근현대기를 거치며 본래의 이력과 기능을 잃은 채 전하는 병풍 중 국립고궁박물관 소장 <일월오봉도>와 <인정전오봉산병풍>이 영희전 병풍임을 추정할 수 있었다. 두 병풍은 배설 방식을 고려해 세 개의 봉우리와 해·달 등을 가운데 2·3폭에 대칭으로 배치하고 나머지 두 봉우리와 적송을 1·4폭에 그렸다. 한편, <인정전 오봉산병풍>은 병풍틀의 배접지로 1840년 답안 일부를 포함한 감시낙폭지를 사용해, 1858년 영희전 증건 시 향후 순조어진의 이안을 대비해 만든 이안청 병풍으로 추정되었다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.76-98
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• 2023

국립중앙박물관 소장 《회혼례도첩》(덕수6375)에 묘사된 남녀 등장인물의 복식을 분석하고 《회혼례도첩》의 제작 시기를 추정한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 주인공 노신랑은 <전안례도>와 <교배례도>에서는 평소 관원으로 착용하던 흑단령을 착용하였다. 그 외 <헌수례도>와 <접빈도>, <중뢰연도>에서는 패영 없는 자립에 옥색 포, 홍색 세조대를 둘렀다. 기럭아범은 자립에 귀 옆에 묶은 패영을 달고 흉배를 부착한 무문 흑단령을 착용하였다. 성인 남자 자손과 하객들은 도포 등 당시의 대표적인 포 종류를 착용하였는데 특히 무관으로 추정되는 인물들은 철릭, 직령을 착용하고 붉은 색 띠와 청색 계통의 띠를 신분에 맞추어 착용하였다. 징씨(徵氏) 등 안내자는 중치막과 홍단령을 착용하였으며 어린 동자들과 시동(侍童)은 중치막을 착용하였다. 술을 따르고 음식을 나르는 총각들은 땋은 머리에 소창의(小氅衣)를 입고 성인들은 전립(氈笠)에 소창의를 착용하였다. 군영 소속의 세악수들은 소색 소창의에 흑색 전복, 그리고 허리에 남색 포대 등 군복을 착용하였다. 둘째, 노신부는 <교배례도>에서는 거두미와 초록원삼 차림을 하였고 <헌수연도>에서는 남치마·옥색저고리 차림이 확인되었다. 여자 자손들은 어여머리에 비녀와 반자, 진주댕기 등의 칠보장식을 하였고 다양한 색상의 저고리에 남색과 홍색, 옥색 등의 치마를 입었다. 남치마에 초록 장옷을 입은 부인도 확인되었다. 홍치마에 초록색 회장저고리를 입은 <교배례도>의 동녀(童女) 4명은 낭자머리에 비녀 꽂고 도다익 댕기를 길게 드리웠으며 칠보족두리를 썼다. 비자(婢子)들은 어여머리에 가리마를 썼으며 양반 부인들과 유사한 치마·저고리를 착용하였으나 색상이 연했고 치마의 길이가 짧았으며 치마의 부풀림 정도가 약하였다. 기녀는 양반 부인과 비슷한 모습이었으나 색상이 덜 화려하였으며 어여머리에는 칠보장식이 없었다. 셋째, 주인공의 자립 착용, 철릭과 직령을 입은 하객들, 군영 소속 세악수 참여 등에 근거하여 회혼례의 주인공이 병조나 군영과 관련된 인물이었을 가능성을 제시하였으며 군영 악대의 전복의 소매 길이와 잠화 사용, 어여머리의 형태와 댕기, 저고리의 길이와 치마의 부풀린 형태 등에 근거하여 《회혼례도첩》의 제작 시기를 1760년대~1780년대로 추정하였다.

• 복식
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.25-42
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• 2005

Costume is a formative art expressed by active human unlike the field of other living formativeness, and an expression of social actions based on a style of culture in a period. Therefore, costume has a deep connection with a mode of living and is recognized as a 'culture for living', and is more characteristic culture than all metaphysical cultures including architecture, craft, painting, and sculpture. Therefore, it expresses wearer's status or social standing, and furthermore, ideas and values of the times with aesthetic features in their form, color, materials, and pattern, so it is expressed as a mirror reflecting the phases of the times as. Korean costume had been dressed until the period of the Joseon Dynasty without a great change and started to be simplified in a simple style on the grounds of inconvenience in behaviors with the opening of an interchange of Western culture in the civilized period. And, this movement had been continued and Korean costume had been applied as an everyday dress under the name of 'Reformed Korean Costume'. Since the middle phase of 1980s, it aroused many people's interests with the introduction of designs focused on activity and convenience. In 1990's, many people had taken a growing interest in Korean costume with development of various designs keeping pace with the internationalization period and Korean Costume had been revitalized under the name of 'The Modernized Korean Costume'. And, since the 21st century, the advanced communication and full-scaled import of Western fashion have made the introduction of many fashion information in the world into Korea, affected greatly the fashion market, led consumers' sensitivity on a trend to be increased. Therefore, a design accepting a trend 'The Modernized Korean Costume' with fashions has risen. Second, this study is an attempt to suggest a revitalization method of domestic casual Korean costume brands by developing and suggesting competitive and highly value-added products with connection of practicality, variety, and highly sensitive fashion styles. For theoretical study, domestic and foreign literatures, academic journals, professional monthly magazines, and newspapers were examined. And, a process of change and features of the Korean fashion since the civilization period, and concept, features and images of casual Korean costume were analyzed, On the basis of analyzing image, features, and consumers' preference of the modernized Korean costume, a design development plan was established and 10 suits of costume were designed and made.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.766-777
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• 2012

The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.

• 한국언론정보학보
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• 제15권
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• pp.75-115
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• 2000

In Korea, since the mid 1990s, the subtitles are largely employed on television programs especially on diverting programs like talk shows and game shows. The functions of these subtitles are different from those of the traditional subtitles. The traditional subtitles are used to give credits, explain an action, or represent dialogue, to be brief they are used to give informations. But the new type of subtitles are used to amuse the public. Not only the new subtitles represent words of the guests but also they present opinions or judgements of the program producer. They show also what to give attention to, what the guest feels and finally what to laugh at. These subtitles are very well received by the public. So they are employed more and more frequently by lots of programs. These subtitles will be ratted comic subtitles because their principal function Is to raise a laughter and to make fun. The purpose of this study is to attempt to find some particularities concerning the uses of the comic subtitles on Korean television. The study suggests that the comic subtitles call for the very known social codes because they should be understood clearly by the public. The forms and styles of the codes employed in the comic subtitles are very similar to those used in the comics. Some graphic codes especially developed in the comics are employed with success in the comic subtitles. The comic subtitles are aiming to amuse and provoke a laughter by written text and visual codes usually employed in the comics. But why does the program producer use the comic titles for make the public laugh? Laugh is not a emotional reaction but a act caused by the intellectual judgement. Written text and visual codes employed in the comic subtitles permit to judge the situation intellectually because they give to the public a moment for think about what they treat. They permit the public to see more clearly the situational relations which can provoke a laughter. The comic subtitles constitute now one of the main elements on Korean television. It means that the insertion of writing in the audiovisual media is popular in Korea. The study suggests that there is something in Korean culture which can favours this insertion : in Korea, writing has never been separated from painting. It seems that in Korea, there has been no clear separation between written culture and visual culture. But this point must be approached more carefully and needs profound researches.

• 복식
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• 제62권5호
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• pp.125-137
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• 2012

This study examines the stage costumes of the creative musical 'Hyecho', which was performed six times in the Chung Ang Art Center hosted by Chung-Ang University's performance & media agency from December 20 to 22 in 2006. The stage costumes were made based on these basic design elements of stage costumes that were dyed : line, silhouette, material, and color. First, the creative musical 'Hyecho' presents a new form of fusion theatre, which blends Korean traditional music and dance with videos. Thereby, the musical has opened a new phase in Korea's creative performing arts. Second, in musical performances that combines dance and songs, stage costumes should be made not only to attract the audience's eyes, but also not to interrupt actors' vocalizations and movements by taking their physical features into account. Also, costumes should be made in consideration of their relationships with visual elements, including stage settings and lighting. Third, the musical features fusion-style stage costumes, which combines Hanbok, the Korean traditional costume, and Indian traditional costumes with modern costumes. For the line and silhouette, costumes show the beauty of curves through the curves of Hanbok and India's traditional costumes and also through irregular pleats of pants. Also, by using cotton materials, which is easy to dye and not readily deformed, costumes feature colors that are found in nature through a gradation dyeing technique. In doing so, it offers visual amusement to the audience by making stage costumes look like a beautiful painting. Fourth, the stage costumes of the chorus feature costumes that use lining and pleated skirts using belts, and various accessories, including necklaces that use strings in order to express evil spirits. Since there is not much time to change costumes during a performance, using such items are helpful to show the unique characteristics of actors effectively during the limited time. Also, coordinating with the lighting director allows the costume designer to make better costumes for the chorus and make the performance more dramatic. Finally, it was not necessary to wash the costumes of the chorus of the fusion musical Hyecho 2006 since it was performed only six times. However, when using dyed costumes for the long-term performance, it might cause problems such as bleaching that result from the washing of costumes and low durability that can result in the deformation of costumes. As performing arts are made in various forms and are diversified, it is needed for stage costumes to change accordingly through new attempts and various ways of expression.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.859-879
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• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.