• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.7-15
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• 2005

Culture industry is appearing as an important sector of economy. Many kinds of culture industry like movie, music, drama, animation and game are creating enormous wealth all over the world. Fashion is a kind of culture industry too and even sometimes treated as art. Korean fashion is not treated as real culture but still as a part of textile industry. Internationally Korean fashion has not yet much to show, and despite of it's potential it does not attract much interest from other countries. In this paper properties and effects of mulberry handmade paper clothes were investigated with five clothes made of it. In making handmade mulberry paper clothes various techniques could be applied and these techniques could bring new effects. Because mulberry handmade paper does not have little flexibility than ordinary texture, much efforts should be put to the detail works. Handmade mulberry paper clothes have enormous potential as art, because various approach could be applied.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.48-53
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• 2003

The objective of this study was to find in what color Korean handmade paper(Hanji) is dyed when it is dyed with a pigment extracted from waste onion peelings using different kinds of mordant, and how the paper is discolored and variety of strength under the condition of accelerated aging test. The results of this experiment are as follows. 1. Korean handmade paper was dyed in different colors according to the kinds of mordant. Mainly it was dyed in orange-brown, and sometimes in gold or khaki. 2. Korean handmade paper dyed was not discolored much, which suggests that the pigment is strong under the condition of aging. 3. As for durability, Korean handmade paper dyed in gold was strongest. Korean handmade paper, to which aluminum sulfate, iron sulfate or sodium dichromate was applied as mordant, had poor durability. Thus, these were not suitable as mordant.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.11-19
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• 1996

This research carried out on characteristics of degradation for the handmade Japanese paper(Washi) and handmade Korean paper(Hanji), which are not studied clearly at present, made an experiment on the physical and the optical tests to the temperature and humidity, The results are as follows ;The handmade Korean paper showed worse results of physical and optical tests than those of Washi. Above all, that low durability was the most characteristics. The handmade paper demands preservation, and therefore, the fiber selection of compositive materials is important. For the handmade Korean paper showed this time, put waste pulps off, and adjust the mixing maintaining appropriate basis weight, and then it must be improved durability.

• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.181-199
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• 1999

The industry of modern clothing has deviated from the overflow of commercialism and the standardization and nowadays is going toward pursuing art, creativity, and high added value. This trend brings the return of the natural materials from the synthetic textiles and increases the value of old and handmade fabrics. Finally, the handmade-paper, which is a natural material, comes to be reconsidered as a new material for the clothing. Therefore, as the natural materials and the manufacture of handmade clothing are rising again, the qualitative improvement and globalization of clothing industry should be first realized through the developments of creative and various clothing materials and new expressing techniques. The above investigation and study have been synthesized and analyzed as follows: First, through the study on the origin of the paper clothing, its historical background and the process of its development, we've learned these two facts following : the paper clothing of the East in the past mostly had practiced meanings. On the other hand, in the West it had meanings which were raised the artist's emotions and beauty-consciousness to the artistic level by the various kinds of expressing methods. Second, handmade-paper was manufactured by the embedding method, which mixed mulberry pulp, gauze, corn, hair, sisal, silk and so on. It was found that handmade-paper had the affluent and proper texture as the clothing material and was be able to control the clarity through the variation of thickness. It was also confirmed that the creative and original texture with hand-worked molding beauty was obtained by the use of handmade-paper. Third, when the handmade-paper is used, the molding beauty of plane, relievo, and solid can be freely pursued, and various and effective molding conformation can be constructed by the effect of superposition and repetition. Also, because the maximum discretion from the various optional manufacturing methods is allowed, the molding beauty can be maximized when the clothes are manufactured with handmade-paper. Fourth, the gauze with strong drape was combined to overcome the stiffness and the tearing of the paper. As a result, the durability and the wearability of the paper were strengthened and thus the thus the applications as the clothing material were enlarged. In conclusion, in order to enhance the value, creativity, practicality, and artistic sense of the design for modern clothing, the clothes made of handmade-paper should be more studied. Moreover, for the generalization of paper clothes, the studies on the development of practical paper with paper with water resistance, post-treatment after dyeing, flexibility, and durability should be done. I really hope that this study will be the motive to provoke the possibility of handmade-paper as new clothing material in not only practical sense but also artistic sense.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.51-56
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• 1998

The bast fiber of paper bush misumada have been cultivated in south coast bay of the Korean peninsula were not used to handmade painting paper. Therefore, in using the bast fiber of paper bush misumada manufactured handmade painting paper, tested absorption speed, blot characteristics and organic functions. The results are summarized as follows; The handmade painting paper manufacured only the bast fiber of paper bush misumada proper to the absorption speed of China ink, didn't have difference of the length and width for blot. And it was most fitted to east writing-and-painting using. Also the flexibility excell, and light and shade in overpainting directly appeared, and fitted to black-and-white drawing. And the using increase plan of the paper bush misumada demanded.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.58-65
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• 2000

Use of a pectinase during preparing handmade papers from bast fiber of paper mulberry(Broussonetia kazinoki Sieb.) was investigated in order to decrease cooking chemicals and environmental pollution. For this purpose, four kinds of commercial pectinases, Rapidase LIQ(RLP), Rapidase Press(RP), Rapidase C80L Max(RCM) and Pectinase SS Kyowa(PSK) were used. And the durability of handmade papers before and after pectinase treatment was determined. RP and PSK had higher pectinase activity ad lower cellulase activity. The bast fiber was not defibered when pectinase was used. In order to increase the efficiency of enzymes, the bast fiber were treated ammonium oxalate(AO) or $K_2CO_3$under mild conditions. The AO pretreatment with those produced by $K_2CO_3$. The RP treated pulps after mild $K_2CO_3$cooking of the bast fiber were defibrated more easily than untreated pulp. The handmade paper prepared with the RP treated pulps after mild $K_2CO_3$cooking has good strength properties such as breaking length and folding endurance. Also, it has higher durability on heat aging, though its brightness was slightly lower than that of untreated paper.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.81-86
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• 2000

Hanji is a traditional handmade paper, which has been famous for its excellent qualities in strength, whiteness, gloss, and smooth feel in painting and writing in ancient Far East for many years. Nowadays, however, its old fame has declined and it has been used only in limited extent such as in traditional Korean brush painting and writing. In this study, 9 kinds of commercial handmade papers made in Korea, China, and Japan were collected and their printing and writing properties were evaluated by image analysis. Chinese handmade paper showed the best result in absorption area of China ink, the roundness and feathering of China ink blots, followed by Hanji. Abrasion coefficient of the Chineses papers was higher than that of the others, which was regarded to contribute to the difference in touch feeling of the writing brush on the papers. It was shown that absorption rate and blot area of China ink were increased by Dochim. Hanji which has recently been made by so called \"traditional method\" showed no quality difference from the modified Hanji.ied Hanji.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.11-22
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• 2013

This paper is focused on practical research regarding costume design and arts management that make use of local resources and which are influenced by local culture of Tokuji in Yamaguchi-city, located in a mountainous area in Yamaguchi Prefecture in the western part of Honshu in Japan. We will examine possibilities in fashion design through this study. This was a practical research project, done with cooperation between the university and local industry, with priorities being assigned by the requests of residents of the Tokuji area. In 2011 the Aurinko, Tokuji, Talo (it means the Solar Tokuji Building in Finnish) was decided as the base of activities. Other functions were gradually added on, including a salon for people of the area to exchange ideas and workshops for group discussions. This paper will specifically be focused on the handmade paper peculiar to Tokuji and traditionally used as a material in fashion. The fashion designs developed by this researcher's laboratory were strongly influenced by these styles of paper. These costumes were made with a handmade paper called "Kamiko" in Japan, that is aesthetic sense has been historically cherished. This paper suggests that the affluence and depth of costume design may be expressed not only by directly borrowing from these influences, but also by borrowing the traditional aesthetic sense original to Japan. Thus this paper will examine industry and culture simultaneously, examining in particular the impact of arts management and costume design using handmade paper manufactured locally.

• 한국산림과학회지
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• 제89권2호
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• pp.161-166
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• 2000

지류문화재의 소재로 주로 사용되어온 수록한지를 네 종류로 구분하고 이를 PEG 분자량과 농도별에 따른 광 변색 억제 효과를 태양의 분광분포와 거의 흡사한 xenon arc 등(燈)을 조사(照射)해 시험한 바 다음과 같이 요약할 수 있었다. 1) Polyethylene glycol을 분산제로 사용한 미 표백 한지는 광 조사 이후 PEG 분자량과는 관계없이 10시간까지는 백색도가 급속히 떨어지는 경향을 보였으나 그 이후부터는 점진적으로 향상되는 경향을 나타내 광 변색 억제의 효과가 있음을 알 수 있었다. 2) 약품 표백을 실시한 한지는 20시간 이후부터 백색도가 증가하는 현상이 나타나 시간이 지체될 뿐 변색 억제의 효과는 있음을 알 수 있었다. 3) 황단규근(黃團葵根)을 분산제로 사용해 초지(秒紙)한 한지(韓紙)는 PEG 400-20%에 침지했을 때 백색도가 가장 낮았으나 광 조사 후는 백색도 차가 가장 적어 광 변색 억제효과가 가장 컸음을 알 수 있었다. 4) 광 열화에 의한 표면현상으로 제일 먼저 나타나는 황변(黃變) 현상을 PEG 침지로써 억제할 수 있음을 b*+값이 감소하는 것으로 알 수 있었고 명도 저하 역시 L* 값의 증가로 상당량 억제할 수 있음을 알 수 있었다.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제31권3호
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• pp.90-95
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• 1999

The durability of handmade paper prepared by potassium carbonate cooking of paper multiberry (Broussonetia Kazinoki Sieb).was investigated. The potassium carbonate paper before and after heat aging had better strength properties, breaking length and folding endurance than those of the soda paper, except of lower brightness .After 30 days of heat aging , these strength properties were still maintained . however, there was almost no difference in the infrared spectra and the crystallinities calculated by X-ray diffraction curves between the potassium carbonate paper and the soda a paper. The durability of the potassium carbonate paper was though to be due to decrease in the pulp damage caused by weak alkaline cooking condition. The results indicated that the paper prepared by the potassium carbonate cooling method could have better permanence than that prepared by the conventional soda cooking method.