• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.78-92
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• 2023

Fashion trends are actively disseminated through social media, which influences both their propagation and consumption. This study explored how users perceive subversive basic fashion in social media videos, by examining the associated concepts and characteristics. In addition, the factors contributing to the style's social media dissemination were identified and its distinctive features were analyzed. Through text mining analysis, 80 keywords were selected for semantic network and CONCOR analysis. TF-IDF and N-gram results indicate that subversive basic fashion involves transformative design techniques such as cutting or layering garments, emphasizing the body with thin fabrics, and creating bold visual effects. Topic modeling suggests that this fashion forms a subculture that resists mainstream norms, seeking individuality by creatively transforming the existing garments. CONCOR analysis categorized the style into six groups: forward-thinking unconventional fashion, bold and unique style, creative reworking, item utilization and combination, pursuit of easy and convenient fashion, and contemporary sensibility. Consumer actions, linked to social media, were shown to involve easily transforming and pursuing personalized styles. Furthermore, creating new styles through the existing clothing is seen as an economic and creative activity that fosters network formation and interaction. This study is significant as it addresses language expression limitations and subjectivity issues in fashion image analysis, revealing factors contributing to content reproduction through user-perceived design concepts and social media-conveyed fashion characteristics.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.65-77
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• 2013

The purposes of this study were to document the fashions adopted by young women in the United States in the 1980s and to explore if and how the dynamic shifts toward postmodernist values influenced those fashion trends. Fifteen U.S. women who were college students in the 1980s were interviewed for the study. In analysis of the data, we focused on social changes during the 1980s and the cultural impact of postmodernism vs. modernism as influential factors. Both postmodern and feminist ideas challenged the mainstream cultural framework of capitalism. U.S. women's styles and behaviors concerning dress reflected characteristics of postmodern consumption patterns, which include nostalgia, ethnic dress, androgyny, eclectic and novel clothing combinations, surprising or humorous appearance, and nonconformity. Despite the critique of conformity and conservatism in dress that had emerged in the 1960s and remained in at least minority or subversive trends, the importance of brand names and designer labels increased in mainstream fashion. This study helps us better understand the dynamics of fashion as it reflects societal and value changes in a transitional time in history.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.1-16
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• 2021

In December 2019, when the novel coronavirus (nCoV) was identified in Wuhan, Hubei, China, the number of people belonging to post-90s generation among about 42,000 medical staffs personnel supporting Hubei was 12,000 or more, accounting for about 33.3% of the total number of personnel. The term "post-90s generation" generally indicates young people born from 1990 to 1999. The study scope is the 1990-2020 period between the birth of post-90s generation and present. Literature and empirical studies are performed. Generational characteristics and fashion trends shown only by post-90s generation through precedent studies and reports are as follows: First, generational characteristics of post-90s generation can be categorized into the following three characteristics: "sang wenhua", "collective loneliness", and "diversified identity". Second, fashion trends of the post-90s generation can be categorized into the following three characteristics: "new Chinese style fashion", "masstige fashion", and "de-labeling fashion". The above results show that the post-90s generation uses "culture" and "me" as keywords. Further, the above trend is consequently divided into the following two characteristics: "diversification" and "individualization". This is because the post-90s generation is directly affected by the reform and opening and the 9-year compulsory education policy of China compared to the previous generations; hence, these people are greatly influenced by Western culture and fashion as well as their own culture and fashion. It refers having a tendency to express one's individuality with a variety of tastes and styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.43-56
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• 2001

Articles on fashion of major daily newspapers for about one years after I.M.F. system were analyzed. The influence of I.M.F. system, values, the importance of costumes at economic crisis were studied through fashion at that time. The major conclusions of the study are as follows : 1. Costumes made in Korea, national brands In Korean words, practical styles, multi-functional design, economic tastes and mixed fashions were emphasized. 2. The sound and patriotic values were pursued through domestic fashion and creative ideas were developed to overcome economic crisis. 3. The meaning of costumes was still important under shrink of consumption. Costumes were useful tools to estimate ability and express aesthetic appreciation. The sound fashion trends under I.M.F. system reflect the reflection on overconsume and the will to overcome economic crisis. Such trends should be fixed for the establishment of economic prosperity for the nation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.493-504
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• 2022

This study aims to gain a deeper understanding of the fashion styles of underground rappers in China and South Korea. Due to rappers' fashion influence on modern fashion trends, research on rapper fashion has been conducted steadily in the field of apparel. Qualitative research methodologies including literature research and in-depth interviews were the primary techniques used to solve the research questions. In-depth interviews were conducted with 10 Chinese underground rappers and 10 Korean underground rappers to reveal and explore their fashion style and view of fashion. As a result, the participants' fashion styles were categorized into four styles: authentic hip-hop fashion style, popularized hip-hop fashion style, easy sports casual style, and trendy street style. Rappers from both countries consider that their identity as rappers can be demonstrated through their hip-hop fashion style. The influence of hip-hop culture and the popularity of rap music differs between China and Korea. It affects not only the rapper's musical characteristics, but also their fashion style. While Korean underground rappers' fashions style is trendier, Chinese underground rappers' fashions style displays stronger characteristics of hip-hop fashion. Due to the public's negative view of rappers, some Korean underground rappers intentionally try to hide their identity by wearing a fashion style that differs from the authentic rapper image. Understanding the fashion styles of underground rappers in Korea and China is expected to assist in predicting future hip-hop culture and rapper fashion trends.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.91-107
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• 2014

This purpose of this study is to analyze the pursuit of current fashion trends and fashion image types of middle-aged women in Korea. This study attempted to investigate the standards and properties of these different types of fashion images. The overall characteristics of middle-aged women and the concepts of personal image and fashion image were investigated through literature research. Survey and analysis based on Q methodology was conducted. Factors of personal image, fashion image and components of fashion image were analyzed by collecting information from in-depth workshops and focus group interview of an expert group. The results of this study are as follows: 1) The main factors influencing the current fashion image of women in their forties and fifties in Korea are classified into six types. 2) The elements of fashion image that Korean women in their 40s and 50s pursue are divide into four types. 3) Each type can be recognized by specific fashion image components and colors. 4) This shows that middle-aged Korean women are highly conscious of how others perceive them and have a desire to not stand out from others. It also shows that they are very active in pursuing fashion and following trends, which is the image of an active and dignified woman. This study provides the framework that enables sorting of the fashion images types that middle-aged Korean women want to pursue. The results from analyzing the factors can be used to recognize specific fashion images, and can be used in the planning and designing of fashion items for middle-aged Korean women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1429-1441
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• 2010

This study examines the post-national trends of the $21^{st}$ century fashion that has embraced multiculturalism. This study conducted a literature view to explore the concept of multiculturalism and the background of post-national phenomena appearing in contemporary fashion. In addition, as a case study, the author used local and foreign fashion magazines and collections published between 2000 and 2009, in addition to other related materials available on the Internet. The objective was to analyze photographic materials in which post-national features are reflected. From this study, the post-national trends in $21^{st}$ century fashion that adopted multiculturalism are as follows: The first is that oriental culture is more actively embraced. In the past, the tendency of embracing the oriental culture was mainly developed with a focus on China and Japan, but recently the tendency has spread to Southeast Asian countries and national/ethnic minorities that include Mongolians and Tibetans that is present in more active ways that reflect oriental sentiment and philosophy as well as adopts simple images. Second, $21^{st}$ century fashion based on multiculturalism broadens the interest in the understanding of nations in the regions of Africa, Middle East, and South America and uses regional folk costumes or indigenous characteristics to create new things instead of staying within a fixed paradigm. Third, as horizontal transfer is involved in ways of looking at culture, $21^{st}$ century fashion shows a post-national tendency to use regional cultures and folk costumes of the occidental world that includes North and West Europe in addition to non-mainstream regions (as considered so far). Fourth, dress elements of many heterogeneous national cultures are combined to create multinational images difficult to define in terms of a specific national culture or clothing style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.18-31
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• 2016

In response to increasing preference for tattoos during the 2000s, the demand for Japanesestyle tattoo fashion increased. Ukiyoe, the prototype of Japanese tattoo popular in the Edo period has been preserved traditional expression techniques to the present, It is characterized by the following: first, the tattoos share literary lyricism through plays borrowed from the classics. second, it displays harmony and equivocal expression of heterogeneous elements samurai and kabuki mono. third, humorous images are expressed in picture-in-picture form. And fourth, presence of fixed characters based on the publication culture. Tattoo fashion is characterized by the following: First, eclectic fashion based on pastiche; second, characters emphasizing fun and comicality; third, the adoption of tattoo models for establishing brand images; and fourth, Cultural association for the new composition of culture consumption. Pastiche, harmony of heterogeneous elements, fun and comicality, and fixed characters were found to be common between tattoo ukiyoe and tattoo fashion. That is, it attempted to meet the sensitive consumers' needs to keep up with the trends by adopting tattoo incorporated into the subculture of neo pop. This shows clearly the characteristics of fashion, which creates new trends through interacting with the contemporary culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.156-168
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• 2007

Brands started to manufacture consumer-oriented products and look for active methods to appeal their brands to consumers, in the 1990s. As a result, actively adopting graphic design to clothing designs has recently become an important strategy among others. Graphic design has important significance in contemporary fashion design in the aspect that it has expanded the range of expressive methods by bringing over expressive methods of visual design, and has led to an increase in sales due to consumer satisfaction, but it has been vaguely handled together with textiles design, and research on the topic has been insufficient. Therefore this study aimed to clearly define the idea of graphic design based on documentary research, and analyze applying case and formative features of graphic design expressed in clothing, through case studies from 2004 to 2006, and derive the trends of graphic design expressed in contemporary fashion design. The results of this study are as follows. The common characteristics of images that reflect recent graphic design trends in fashion design are hand writing and irregular composition, and images that actively pursued these pointes were retro and craft images, and modern and sporty images reflected these graphic design trends in a comparatively passive manner. It is important to maintain style differentiation rather than indiscreetly adopting graphic design trends to clothing, and to appropriately apply trend characteristics of fashion design and other design areas. Expressive methods of design are expected to expand through appropriate application and development of graphic design, and can potentially provide a new solution to brand differentiation.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.118-135
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• 2015

This study probed into the fashion of modern girls between the 1920's and the 1930's who led the mentality and fashion of women as the progenitor of the alpha girl in Korea. For this, the fashion of actual people who received attention as modern girls in various occupations and that of modern girl heroines reinterpreted in films were examined. Methods included the theoretical study based on fashion related newspaper articles at the time, specialized publications, advance researches, and internet data and the empirical study that involved contents analysis centering on visual data. The Western women's fashion between the 1920's-1930's was dominated by the garçonne look to promote women's entry into society and competition against men and the practical and mature long and slim look due to the influence of economic recess. Korean people also adapted Western clothes following Western fashion while also modified the traditional clothes and wore modified Korean clothes. The fashion of 5 actual modern girls of Korea and that of 3 film heroines were examined. The fashion of actual people most well represented the fashion trends at the time and that they used fashion as the means to express their mentality and their artistic propensity and professionalism were expressed through fashion. On the other hand, the fashion of film heroines substantially expressed various occupations of the characters in the film and reflected trendy clothes and cosmetics, and it showed sexy and romantic fashion trend due to the influence of modern trends and reinterpretations.