• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 2016

Natural colorant extracts were obtained by extraction from tumeric root, gardenia seeds, mugwort and green tea using water, methanol, ethanol and acetone as extractants at room temperature for 3 hours under shaking condition(180rpm) with liquor ratio(solid:solvent; 1:100). The main pigment components of tumeric root, gardenia seeds, mugwort and green tea are known to be curcumin, crocin, chlorophyll b and epigallocatechin gallate, respectively. The effects of the kind of extractant and pH on the color characteristics of natural colorant extracts were investigated. The solubility parameters of pigment components were determined to find adequate extractant. The solubility parameters of curcumin, crocin, chlorophyll b and epigallocatechin gallate were found to be 27.85, 29.40, 19.48 and $37.97(J/cm^3)^{1/2}$. As expected, solvents that have a solubility parameter similar to that of pigment component were generally found to be effective to obtain pigment extracts having high visible absorbance(A). The extract(pigment/solvent) with high visible absorbance was generally found to have low $L^*$(lightness) and high Chroma($C^*$, purity).

• Archives of design research
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.11-22
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to provide basic information for establishment of a desirable design promotion policy drive by research and analysis of recognition to design by consumers (including students) and designers and their level, merchandise evaluation evaluation and obstructing factors in revitalization of designs. To implement such purpose as referred to hereinabove, research was made by introduction of questionaires which were distributed to 500 persons of consumers group and 350 individuals of registered designers in Seoul, and for analysis of the data, density and percentage (%) were obtained by use of SAS Package and the dispersed analysis and correlationship were added for necessary parts. The result of study is summarized as follows; (l)The consumers remind the design as costume (21%) and molding (20%), and the designers remind it as creativity (27%) & molding (14%) respectively and the reminding of design by the two groups was indicated very simi lar. (p < 0.001) (2)As per the recogni tion of roles by the designers the research has highly indicated as contribution to improving living standards or development of economy & industry, and also indicated that it creates excessive consumption with sti$$\mu$ative manner. (3)The design reacts as an important parameter in selecting cri teria of merchandises and deciding factors for purchasing and also, in enhancement of competitive power of merchandise impact of design (2.36) was regarded very high. (4)The Korean-made home appliances in image is assessed as vulnerable than that of Japanese products, and the product designing level is also shown difference from advanced countries (1.36), but has indicated as somewhat better than those competitive nations (0.51) (5)The satisfaction to design policy of the Gov't is very low (1.69) and they recommended for new establishment of Policy undertaking department within the Gov't and indicated reasearch & development of design as the major issue. In regard to the above I'd like to emphasize the design industry $$\mu$t be dealt with the national level as a whole in order to promote thereof.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.97-106
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristics and detergency of natural surfactants for the cleaning of excavated fabrics. For this purpose, SDS, a synthetic surfactant, was selected as the control, and five types of natural surfactants, namely, LES, apple wash, tea saponin, cornacopa, and coco betaine were selected. The structures of the surfactants were confirmed by FT-IR spectroscopy analysis, and the characteristics of the surfactants were determined by measuring the pH and surface tension. In addition, detergency testing was carried out on four artificially soiled fabrics and fragments of excavated fabrics. From the results, apple wash, tea saponin, and cornacopa were found to be as good as SDS in terms of detergency in the cleaning of artificially soiled fabrics, and the detergency of tea saponin and coco betaine was found to be good for cleaning excavated fabrics. Therefore, considering the safety and detergency of detergents, among natural surfactants, tea saponin is found to be most suitable for the cleaning of excavated fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.1-19
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• 2002

This study is to observe the meaning, aesthetic formative nature of the human body which has been not only a main issue and discussion object but also socially, culturally connected with clothing by contemplating it in the respect of the trend of art. Additionally, a work of contemplation about human body introduced to fashion design was analyzed to renew the meaning and value of the formative art inside the human body. The way and scope of this study is to contemplate the concept and meaning of human body, based on the documentary records such as art history and clothing history in the West society as a main theme. The results of the analysis were as follows: In the first place, the formative characteristics shown in the modem arts expressing the human body since 1990 which are cubism, futurism, metaphysical painting, dadaism, surrealism, pop art, happening, feminism, body art, and technology art are distortion, exaggeration and dismantling. Second, the aesthetic formative nature and meaning in the human body appear to be different according to the standard of ideal beauty of human body when we examine the expression of it from the aspect of art-history and the meaning of human body implied in it. Besides, human body is being used as a messenger which delivers the message of modem artist to other people. So the changed meaning of human body has affected the clothing and made it possible to manufacture and form new styles of clothing that have never been before. In conclusion, the human body in the modem era plays an important role as a brand-new formative medium of communication in the human society and contributes to the development which applies the aesthetic formative nature of the human body to fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.76-86
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• 1996

복식사 연구의 한 방법으로서, 문헌을 통하여 다량의 정보 수집이 가능할 경우, 사회과학의 분야에서 사용되어 온 내용분석법을 도입하여 정보의 수량화를 꾀할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 내용분석법을 이용하여 1856년부터 1870년에 이르기까지 미국 여성의 평상복(daydress)중 재킷과 치마의 유행 경향을 당시의 대포적인 패션 잡지인 Godey's Ladies Book과 Perterson's Magazine의 패션 삽화를 토대로 분석하였다. 1856∼1870년은 미국의 남북전쟁 발발 5년 전부터 남북전쟁 직후 5년까지 의 15년간의 기간을 이르며, 해당 15년은 전쟁 전, 전쟁 중, 그리고 전쟁 후의 5년간씩의 3 시기로 나뉘어졌다. 연구의 목적은 여성 평상복의 디자인이 위의 기간 동안 남북전쟁의 한 영향으로서 군복 '라일의 경향을 띄게 되는지의 여부를 조사하는 것이다. 군복 스타일의 경향은 몸에 꼭 맞는 실루엣(fitted silhouette), 에플렛(epaulet), 스텐딩 칼라(standing collar), 더블 여밈 (double-breastedness) 다수의 단추의 사용 및 장식(buttons)으로 정의되었다. 여성스러운 스타일의 경향은 풍성한 실루엣 (full silhouette), 플라운스가 된 치마(flounced skirt), 그리고 러플/fp이 스/리본 (ruffles/lace/ribbons)의 사용 여부로 정의되었다. 연구의 초점은 객관적이고 체계적인 문헌 정보의 수집 방법을 수립하는 데 있었으며, 수집된 자로는 각 변수의 빈도 분포포에 의해 조사되었다. Fitted silhouette, epaulet, 그리고 standing collar는 제 3시기에 가장 많이 나타났고 제 1시기에 가장 적게 나타났다. 여성스러운 스타일에 있어서 full sihouette과 trounced skirt는 제 1시기에 가 장 많이 보였고 전쟁 당시와 전후에 점차적으로 적게 나타났다. Buttons나 double breastedness 등은 제 2시기에 가장 많이 보이고 제 3시기에는 오히려 가장 낮은 빈도수를 보였다. 반면에 ruffles/lace/ribbons는 fitted silhouette 등의 군복 스타일의 변수와 더불어 제 3시기에 가장 많이 보인 것으로 분석되었다. 전반적인 유행의 경향에 있어서, 군복 스타일의 변수와 여성스러운 경향의 변수를 각각 종합하여 분석해 보면, 제 2시기를 중심으로 전자의 유행은 점차적으로 증가하고 후자의 유행은 감소되고 있는 것을 볼 수 있다. 그러나 당시 미국 패션은 유럽 왕실의 유행에 의해 크게 영향을 받은 것을 감안할 때 본 연구의 결괴는 서양 복식의 역사의 선상에서 조심스럽게 해석되어야 할 것 이다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.443-453
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to identify the perception between real and ideal body shapes of college students and to investigate the preferred body shape of college students. The research subjects numbered one hundred forty five male and female students, aged 20 to 29, who lived in Gwangju and Chonnam province. The anthropometric data was collected including both direct and indirect measurements. The data was analyzed by mean and standard deviation, t-test, and factor analysis. The results of t-test showed the significant difference($p{\leq}.001$) between real body size and ideal body size. The result showed that male students want to have bigger chest circumference and a taller height than their real body, the research also showed that the female students want to have a narrow bust and hip width along with a taller height than real body. Regarding ideal body shape, male students pursued bigger height and want an inverted-triangle body shape. On the other hand, female students pursued bigger height and slim body shape. This study established the factors(dimension of torso, height, the side shape of torso, and shoulder shape) as the perception between real and ideal body shapes. In terms of real body, the factor analysis shows two contrasting results in which the height is the most important factor for female students, while the torso dimension is the most important factor for male students. In terms of ideal body, the height factor is the most important for both the male and female students.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1315-1321
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• 2009

The chemical composition of natural powder dye $Pinux^{TM}$ manufactured from Pinus radiata bark and dyeability of dyed silk fabrics with $Pinux^{TM}$ were examined. It is made up of the optimum dyeing condition of silk fabric according to the dyeing concentration, dyeing time, and dyeing temperature. Also, we examined the colorfastness and antibiosis of dyed silk fabrics to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light. For the analysis of the chemical composition of $Pinux^{TM}$, the total contents of phenolic compound, proanthocyanidin(PA) and anti-oxidative activities of the dye were analyzed. As a result, it was found that the main components of the $Pinux^{TM}$ manufactured from Pinus radiata bark is proanthocyanidin, mostly a flavonoid containing a procyanidin structure, and it consists of approximately 63% phenol. As a result of examining the dyeability of silk fabrics with $Pinux^{TM}$, it showed that the dyeability was best under the conditions of the concentration of dye $1{\sim}1.5%$(wt/v%), dyeing time of 90 minutes, and dyeing temperature at $90^{\circ}C$. It was found that the colorfastness of dyed silk fabrics, colorfastness to washing, perspiration for acidic and rubbing were as good as grade 4 or 4-5. However, the colorfastness to light was low at grade 1, the same as the results of other natural dyed fabrics. As a result of the antibiosis measurement for the $Pinux^{TM}$-dyed silk fabrics, it showed high antibacterial properties to Staphylococcus sureus at 99.6%.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.799-807
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• 2009

When analyzing make-up trends of figures shown in portraits of different eras in Chinese painting history, you can see that red color was used much. This can be because the red color is the most outstanding among all the colors and was most preferred by ancient people, as the color of the sun, the blood, and the sacredness. The women in the Tang Dynasty was especially using the red color much. Though Seongrihak (Neo-Confucianism) in Song Dynasty was the governing ideology, it had an influence even upon its aesthetics. Thus, during Song Dynasty, the beauty of logos appeared too. This phenomenon showed a conservative tendency even in make-up as well as in costume, thereby the concept of clear and elegant beauty was emphasized. The real figure in the Ming and Ching Dynasty, was so young and weak as a sample of a delicate woman that a woman who had feminine beauty was regarded as an ideal type. The feminine image had been gradually generalized from the literary works in the latter half of Ming Dynasty. However, the painters in the era still preferred the beauty of a healthy woman. That tendency probably had an influence even upon make-up culture that was shown in portrait. As an analysis result of make-up culture in Chinese portrait paintings, it reveals that ancient make-up trends much reflected the social and cultural phenomena of the periods.

• Journal of Korean Library and Information Science Society
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.101-120
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• 2012

This study investigated general problems concerning the clothing and textiles field in the KDC 5th edition based comparative analysis academic characteristics and classification system, and suggested on some ideas for the improvements of them. Results of the study is summarized as follows. First, the classification system of the clothing and textiles field is generally divided by costume, dyeing engineering, leather & fur processing, textiles and textile industries, manufacturing clothes, management of clothing, and textile arts. Second, I proposed improvements based on analyzing problems of KDC 5th to the clothing and textiles field from the collection database at the National Library of Korea. Third, basically improvements of KDC system was based on the knowledge of the clothing and textiles field. I tried to maintain as the KDC existing classification system was to retain as much as possible, and to move between items was minimal.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.197-206
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• 2009

Natural preservative agents are generally made of antibiotic substances that are extracted from plants. They are used mainly to keep in an original good state food, natural cosmetic goods and medicines which are likely to get rotten. The purpose of this study is to investigate whether natural preservative agents can be applied to fabrics for the preservation of textile cultural properties. For the purpose, this researcher experimented with a certain natural preservative agent which was developed to preserve natural cosmetic goods. The study found that when treated with the foresaid natural preservative agent whose ratio to water was 1%, fabrics showed little changes in color and tensile strength, almost neutral pH, high antibiosis and anti-fungus and high resistance to Bacillus cereus that is much detrimental to silk fabrics. As a part of the study, a preliminary test on the possibility of using natural preservative agents to preserve textile cultural properties, found that when kept covered up with the 1% natural preservative agent-treated fabrics for 72 hours, excavated textile relics showed a dramatic decrease in microbial growth.