• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.14-32
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• 2016

This study examines the morphological expression type and formative characteristics of women's shoes designs that integrate 3D printing technology. The results of the study are as follows. First, the morphological expression types of contemporary shoes that integrate 3D printing technology express a structural form created by repetition. Second, it expresses a dynamic form, which combines organic curves that create an external volume. Third, it expresses a surrealistic form centered on an object with the creation of a unique shape that utilizes objects easily experienced in local surroundings. Fourth, it expresses a hybrid form on a partial derivation. Each of the other system's components are fused to create another beauty that develops a new value in a colorful variation on the shape of 3D printing shoes. The first formative characteristic of women's shoes designs that integrate 3D printing technology is continuity. This creates an invisible form of a new space through repetitive unidirectional layers with a gradual expansion of a unitary seamless curves. Second, it is an exaggeration. This exaggeration elicits an enormous aesthetic quality by structuring the outward space in the difference of the volume formed based on the maximization of a specific part and the volume of a line's atypical movement. Third, it is a decoration. It displays the beauty of a decoration that evokes a unique artistic inspiration by partial unification or a practical representation of a specific form. This can also be seen as superimposing a 3D printing figure that has an outstanding shape onto part of the fashion shoes. Fourth, it concerns a geometrical characteristic that formulates a new structure with rationality in combining basic shapes such as circles, triangles and squares with lines, hexagons and interconnected geometrical forms to create a multi-dimensional space for shoes in a systematic and unidirectional pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.211-223
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• 1992

The results of the researches in the wig and the Boyo are as follows. The wig is to be classified into Bu, Pyun, Chah, Cheh, and kwik, Bu is an ornamental hairpin used by the empress, and it is decorated with Boyo. Pyun is a wig made of braided hair. Chah is made of Bal which is put together by its lenath, and it was also called Picheh or Pisuck. It is made, one by one, of hair of the convicts and the low-class people. 초도 has a meaning of toupee, and it is used to look beautiful with its thick black hair. Kwik is a wig made of hair as if it is weaved out of thread, and it is rounded with a wire. In ancient times, it was also called chah, Pi, or Pi People wore different wigs according to their class and the use, in order of Bu, Pyun, and Chah. There are remains of the Han Dynasty. Boyo, just like the wig, was originally a custom of the northern nomadic tribes which had been introduced to the later Han Dynasty. It is also called Cho Song and has a different meaning from the Boyo attached to a crown before the Han Dynasty. It became much more beautiful in the Which in period. Boyo gained its popularity by the women in Tang Dynasty, which is due to the influence by the customs of the western Ho tribe. The name of hairstyling using wigs in each period, and things such as hair, black thread, lignum, and paper were used as materials. Since the wig had differed according to the disparity in social standing it was prohibited to the general public, but it became in style later on. Wig also becomes popular in central Asia and gained its properity in the Tang Dynasty which is greatly influenced by the western countries. It is said in the records that the kobal Style had been exceedingly in fashion from the Ju to the Chung Dynasty, and the remains of the Han and Song Dynasty were found. times, it was also called chah, Pr, or period, and things such as hair, black thread, lignum, and paper were used as materials. Since the wig had differed according to the disparity in social standing, it was prohibited to the general public, but it became in style later on. Wig also becomes popular in central Asia and gained its prosperity in the Tang Dynasty which is greatly influenced by the western countries. It is said in the records that the kobal Style had been exceedingly in fashion from the Ju to the Chung Dynasty, and the remains of the Han and Song Dynasty were found.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.321-337
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• 1992

Fashions are constantly subject to change, so that forecasting trends in fashion is very difficult and the forecasting is very important. The reason is that forecasting is identifying a hot trend for the next days' business and projecting the future. The purpose of this study is to suggest the realistic forecasting theory identify fashion trends at present, further forecast fashion trends to 1995. For this study, historical models (th historical resurrection model, the historical continuity model) and the art movement model among the behavioral science models which was suggested in 1986 by Geoge B.Sproles were selected. According to this study, was exhibited. This curve was resulted from relation between 1980s fashion trends and the behavioral science models of fashion. Fashion trends to 1995 through will be followings; 1. Body Conscious look as one of the characteristics of modern fashion will bi continued throughout 1990s' fashion trends. 2. The attraction of Mini style was started from the middle of 1980s, recently gets near micro mini and super shouts, These are representative of the historical continuity model. 3. Mini look as revivals of '60s in early 1990s fashion trends. This phenomenon identifies that "Fashion is repetition" 4. When Mini look and super shorts reach, will not progress any more. In this time, will bi seen transfer of style be using classic style. Tat is modern classic will be appeared. also this condition is same from late 1960s to early 1970s. In view of the historical base, the action of the varieted pants will be prominent. 5. Fashion trends which passed through this process will transfer from young look to elegant look. In this time, designers will retrospect '30s and '50s fashion trends, and then will design modern feminine look. 6. Ethnic look, the fashion trend after that condition will be accelated feminine look. This look with the feminine look will reveal rich, colorful, elegance feminine image. 7. In 1980s, activity and function in clothes were demanded. The clothes which are considered these condition will be demanded continuously. 8. The variety of fashion will appear as mixmode and new coordinate look in a clothes simultaneously in fashion of '90s. And these looks will creat mixed beauty. 9. Pop art, op art, graphic art will be not only development of textile but also movement of fashion soul in 1990s. The fashion behavior will be continuously scientificated.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.185-206
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to improve productivity for maximum effects with the present equipments and staff. This study compared and analyzed the mea-sured time by using stop watch method and MTM, which was the new measuring method. The flow and results of this study were as follows: 1. This study investigated the theoretical background the efficiency for production management, and the way of productivity improvement through documentary research. 2. Setting up the standard flow on the experi-mental company production, making out a process chart and measuring the actual working hour. 3. The study measured the allowance time applying work sampling. 4. Each process of the movement analysis was filmed by video to use basic data. 5. MTM analysis was taken by choosing 10 processes from front bodice according to the basic movement of MTM. Through the results, this study exclude unneccesary movements and suggest a method for working ways. 6. Using the actual working hour measured by a stop watch calculated the pitch time and presumed the amount of daily productivity. 7. The result of the work sampling came out as 38% of allowance rate. It was 13% higher than the standard amount of woman's jacket allowance rate, which was 25%. The most influencing factor was work discussion. That was because there were commuication problem of the work way between the operator and leader. More adequate use of flow table and level passing table was needed. There were the problems that inappropriate places and sizes made the distance of movements longer and often needed more adjustment of works and surroundings. To prevent breakdowns equipments check ups were necessary before works. 8. The results of MTM analysis were as follow : the time was reduced 40% than the actual measured time by a stop watch. This was because the leveling of the operator was included in the real calculation. Also, leveling was included in MTM analysis and all the conditions were standarized. Therefore MTM method was a scientidic measuring way of establishing the standard time. The presented method of this study, suggested an ideal method eliminating unneccesary motions, and presented standardization of works. Improvement of working methods, work condition and simplifying motions in each 10 processes reduced the working time from total 656 seconds to 301 seconds. 9. The way and time of working was linked together in the MTM analysis methods. Thus data from MTM help suggest not only establishing standard time but also establishing stan-dard work. Plus it includes various ability for improvements of working ways. So it is an objective method which can be widely used in other work studies. 10. The function of a time study is to determine the amount of work produced with a given method. The work rate is used to establish the cost of labor. The wage of worker must be calculated per unit time which is deter-mined before the time study is made. This study tried to introduce the incentive rule for deciding wages according to the standard time by MTM method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.62-78
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• 2005

The modern period was the time that the most radical and extensive social and mental changes were occurring throughout the history, and modernism was prevailing as a general cognition system of people. Modernism, which carries principles of progress, belief in application of scientific technology, worship of reason, ideal of liberty as a col-e value of civilization, was plated as a leading ideology in the realm of society, culture and art In the early 20th century. In this study, the formative characteristics of modernism seen in architecture and fashion are analogized and analyzed in four ways ell the basis of the theory of p. Greenhalgh. First, 'Standardization for mass-production', which is analogized which P. Greenhalgh's 'Decompart-mentalisation', 'Social Morality', and' Technology'. Standardization for mass-production in architecture focuses on the development of a design prototype in order to mass produce; the development of ready-made clothes is actively done ill the fashion area for the same purpose as well. Second, 'Rational functionality' coming from P. Greenhalgh's 'The total work of art' and 'Function'. While rational functionality in architecture puts an emphasis on the rational operation of all the functions in regard to the relation between each part and the whole, rational functionality in fashion call be mainly seen in a dramatic increase in physical activity which could be hardly found before the modernism period. Namely, all the fashion design elements are developed for a certain rational and functional design on each part as well as on the whole in order to greatly increase physical activity. Third, 'the pursuit for genuineness of objects and universality of beauty' is on the analogy of P Greenhalgh's 'Truth', 'Anti-historicism', 'Abstraction', 'Internationalism/Universality'. This idea is adopted in architecture in the form of design of geometrical abstraction. In the same way, design using geometrical abstraction comes to have a significant meaning in fashion of the modernism period. So to speak, modernism architecture and fashion can be reborn to become an inter·national style by giving up the decorative and regional design prevailing before modernism and by expressing universal aesthetics in the form of simplicity and abstraction instead. Fourth, 'Expression of progress through a change in a viewpoint' stems from P. Greenhalgh's 'Progress', 'Transformation of Consciousness', 'Theology'. In architecture, this concept appears by using new construction materials and methods and by representing new aesthetical idea. As a result, it makes it possible for people to make progress for better lives. Like in architecture, new attempts for material application and processing are made in fashion. This gives rise to a general change in a viewpoint related to fashion, so that a flew fashion design which there has never been before can come out.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.49-67
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationships between demographic and psychological variables and clothing behavior with reference to sex difference in adult and elderly groups. The clothing behavior was measured by Clothing importance, Interest, Conformity, Modesty, Psychological dependence, Aesthetics, Management, Fashion, and Clothing satis-faction. Psychological variables in this study were self-esteem and life-satisfaction, and demographic variables were sex, education, family type, health, and clothing expenditure. The hypotheses set up in this study were as follows : First, a causal relationship will exist between demographic and psychological variables and clothing behavior in both adult and elderly groups. Second, in clothing behavior a main effect will exist between male and female groups and between adult and elderly groups. Third, in clothing behavior and interaction effect will exist between sex and age. The subjects of this study were 496 adult males, 459 elderly males, and 446 elderly females residing in Pusan area. The material used in this study to measure the clothing behavior was a 5-point rating scale with 31 items in 9 sub-areas developed by the author. The data were collected by five investigatiors well trained in interview before-hand. The following conclusions were obtained from the relults and discussions of this study : First, sex, education, and clothing expendi-ture has a causal relationship with clothing behavior in adult group. Females, higher-educated group, and the group with more clothing expenditure reveal higher concern for clothing. In adult group life-satisfaction does not have any causal relationship with clothing behavior in general execpt for clothing satis-to Psychological dependence, Aesthetics, Management, and Clothing satisfaction in the group. Second, in elderly group sex, education, and health significantly contribute to clothing behavior. A cencern for clothing is higher in female, higher-educated group, and the group with higher perception in health. Self-esteem has a causal relationship with Clothing importance, Conformity, Management, and Clothing satisfaction, whereas life-satisfaction has a strong causal relationship with clothing behavior in general. Third, in both adult and elderly groups a sig-nificant sex diference exists in clothing behavior. Females show higher concern for Clothing importance, Interest, Psychological dependence, Aesthetics, Management, and Fashion than males. On the other hand, males reveal higher concern for Conformity and Clothing satisfaction than females. Fourth, a significant interaction effect exists between age and sex, while elderly females show lower concern for Clothing importance, Interest, and Psychological dependence than adult females, elderly males show higher concern for the same sub-areas of clothing behavior than adult males. This signifies the increase of the concern for clothing in elderly males with the decrease of social activities. Fifth, adult female group reveals lower Con-formity in clothing compared with the other groups, which signifies the higher individuality in clothing behavior. On the other hand, the elderly groups show significantly higher Conformity than the adult groups. this signifies the importance of the consideration for the variables other than individuality in clothing behavior for the group.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.65-84
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to analyze the relation between the beauty of human body and the fashion illustration in each period And I attained my object through the investigation of features and changes of illustration which is given a vivid description of the features and development of ideal humam body beauty. By various methods I studied this subject. Frist I refered to sundry records Secondly I investiated the fashion illustrations which are included in Vogue. On the basis of this data I grasped the ideal types of human body beauty which is founded during the social change in each 10 years. And I analyzed the relation be-tween the ideal type and fashion illustration which show the change of fashion. The summary of result is as follows. 1. In the early part of the 20th century the beauty of human body is represented with the figure of large-sized beauty which emphasize shoulder and bust. And fashion ikllustration show 9 life-size broad shoulder full bust lim waist and hourglass silhouette. 2, In the 1910s the swell of strength vanishes gradually and shoulder and sleeve are straight type. And fashion illustration show 7 life-size high waist line. And that is tublar sil-houette of high waist and streamline shape in which bust and hip are not emphasized. 3. In the 1920s the ideal type of human body beauty is straight type which shows flat bust and unexaggerate hip. And fashion illus-tration is about 8 life-size tublar silhouette of low waist and lunger and slimmer and young style in which bust and hip are not emph-asized. 4. In the 1930s the ideal is womamly slim and long style. Fashion illustration is about 8 life-size and slim & long silhouette in which waist line is emphasized and bust and hip line come out. 5. In the 1940s the ideal type is womamly style which has narrow shoulder rich bast and slim waist. And fashion illustration is about 7 life-size and hourglass silhouette which has unartificial shoulder slim waist and empha-sized bust. 6. In the 1950s the ideal type is that of ro-bust health which emphasize build and muscu-lar system. And fashion illustration is 8.5 life-size and show full bust and made waist slimmer. That is sheath silhouette. 7. In the child who has full face with large eyeball slender and long leg: narrow and immatured body comparatively big head. And fashion illus-tration is 7 life-size and show slim and long neck flat bust long and slim limbs and big head. That is H type silhouette. 8. In the 1970s the ideal type is high stat-ure flat breast small hip and wide shoulders. And fashion illustration is wide shoulders and slim waist as 11 life-size and straight sil-houete. 9. In the 1980s the ideal type is extremely emphasized breadth of shoulder because healthy body and muscle are recognized as the symbol of ideal attractiveness. And fashion il-lustration is about 8.5 life-size and show mus-cular slim type that is slim silhouette. 10 At the present time the ideal type is slim and tall type which is empasized healthy beauty. And fashion illustration is 12 life-size which has healthy body and skin So that is slim and long type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.239-253
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• 1996

The purpose of this dissertation is to exam-ine the hippie look which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the early 90s, in re-lation to the hippie style in 60s and cultural restoration. in order to investigate the re-lationship this dissertation studies the trans-feral phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother fashion in the basis of social and clutural theories. hippie culture is the anti-culture which appeared in America in the late 60s, it tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. First of all to examine the inner symbolic meaning and outer shape of the hippie style I divided the characteristics of the hippies into ideology social value and attitude on sex. in the aspect of ideology the hippie show strong subjectivity while mother culture shows ob-jectivity. in social value the hippie has the resisting chaacteristics while mother culture has the conformative characteristics. In the aspect of sex the hippie tries to break the fixed idea of mother culture. Hippie culture as anti-culture is symbolically expressed in hippie style fashion which is dif-ferent from mother fashion in shape. There-fore the inner meaning and the outer shape of the hippie style shows strong characteristics of anti-fashion. Hippie style as anti-fashion has an effect on high fashion in the late 60s and the early 70s and on hippie look which is restored in 90s. however hippie-look in 90s is a mother-fashion in which all symbolic mean-ings of the hippie style are weakened and the only outer shape of hippie style is presented and suggested. It doesn't show any cultural backgrounds ideology social value and new attitude on sex of the hippies. The transferal phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother-fashion is summarized as follows. First in the process of tranference to highfashion in 60s and 70s and hippie-look in 90s the resistance of the hippie style is weakened and only suggested through the outer look. Second the hippie style which reappeared in the high fashion and mother fashion in 90s are layered look military uniform mode flower print grunge look romantic look peasant look ethnic look gypsy style handicraft ornaments working suit style handicraft ornaments working suit style and the use of the see-through cloth. Third the fact that the popular and high fashion were influenced by anti fashion in 60s proves filter-up theory in fashion adaption theory. As I examined before the ideology of the hippies are faded in high fashion in 60s-70s and hippie-look in 90s. The symbolic meaning of the hippie style is also weakened and only presented as a fashion trend.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.29-39
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• 2002

It was increased leisure hours by automation and computerization of industry. Many people spend on hours in enjoying leisure sports, and then. nowadays, Many women tend to prefer casual wear to formal suits. The purpose of this research was to design of outdoor-wear that improve the functional and aesthetic effects for clothing comfort. Total 4 design prototype consisting of jumper and slacks were developed for this research. Outdoor-wear design forced on armhole type of jumper and ease of the back crotch length of slacks to improve the functional and aesthetic effects. And Outdoor-wear design focused on color harmony to aesthetic effects. Ease amount and materials of jumper and slacks were controlled. Design A: Jumper was designed as dropped shoulder with set-in steeve and band collar, A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of outside seam line of slacks Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 7% of total crotch length: Design B 4DM cut pattern were applied to the jumper and slacks pattern. A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of inside seam line of thigh. Color of jumper and slacks were grey and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design C : Jumper was designed as the set in sleeve and hood. and A break- away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the ares of the armhole and elbow. Color of jumper and slacks were ivory and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design D : Jumper was designed as raglan sleeve. Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Total six females, ages 20-45, served as subjects for this research. Subjects have standard body type, generally, wearing 66 size of ready-to-wear clothing. The performance of the newly designed outdoor-wear was evaluated for their effectiveness in several aspects such as conditions of skin temperature, sensory evaluation of comfort during body movements, appearance and color harmony and aesthetic collar design. Design 3 was appeared to be the most positive in aesthetic evaluation and functional effects of design 2 of 4DM cut pattern was appeared to be beter than other designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.6
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• pp.7-26
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• 1982

Investigation for industrial revolution has been recognized as an important issue of historical science, since industrial revolution itself was a historical moment in modern economic society and in the forming of modern capitalistic culture. If clothing culture had been developed in close relation to social culture. industrial revolution which gave a base for modern capitalistic culture, would be a birth of modern clothing as well as a moment for modernization of western clothing. As it takes for granted that industrial revolution, historical phenomenon is a developmental base of modern clothing culture. This study tried to enlighten the origin of modern clothing culture phenomenon with investigation of industrial revolution as a historical moment in modern clothing culture through documental study. Historian's point of view and method of studying are important when we investigate the clothing phenomenon. Although culture phenomenon of industrial revolution has been evaluated usually through socialogical aspect, studying for clothing culture phenomenon must be carried out on aethetical as well as well as sociological aspect, on account of dualism of clothing, as it is social and artistic nature. In 19th century, there were technical improvement, changing patterns of production, changing social relation and beginning of mass culture. At the same time clothing culture phenomenon was changed in relation to modern capitalistic society. The findings of the study could be summarized as follows. 1. Technical improvement in textile industry and fitting process brought about mechanization of clothing industry. 2. Appearance of popular clothing culture made it easy to spread to various classes of society. 3. Development of transportation system and communication channel made it internationalization of western clothing. 4. Recognition of importance in functional style of clothing. 5. The pursuit of modern aesthetics made rapid changing mode of clothing. Above distinctive features of modern clothing culture were derived from by-product of machinary culture, mass culture, internationalism, rapidly changing mode of various culture during industrial revolution. Industrial revolution was a change of the material world as well as in industry owing to machine advent, then the culture part that displayed directly these changes was the plastic arts of living that mould the material. The problem of clothing construction caused by industrial revolution was solved by pursuing the functional aesthetics. Clothing phenomenon as a process of value transfer participates mass culture in closs relation to general change of various culture caused by industrial revolution. Therefore western clothing gained the qualities of modern culture, condensed as function, and popularity in the process of modernization.