• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.217-233
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• 2012

Placeness forms the traits unique to certain areas inducing people to visit there and purchase goods related to the place. The purpose of this study is to survey fashion images linked with placeness, by examining on-line and off-line fashion goods which claim the placeness. Hong-dae area in Seoul is selected for the case study, and the fashion goods claiming Hong-dae style or Hong-dae fashion are selected in order to analyze the fashion images. Hong-dae area, which was known for its art scenes and small restaurants in the 1980s, has been flourished its postmodern style cafes formed as yuppies-style consumer space in the 1990s. Foreign influenced subcultures were adopted, mimicked and mixed. Afterwards, dance clubs and live clubs gathered around this area. Recently, various local events to enhance the place identity such as "freemarket" and festivals are hosted by the local community. Based on the historical and regional background, the placeness of Hong-dae area is characterized with its artistry, counter-culturalism, and commercialism. The fashion images related of Hong-dae area fashion can be characterized as avant-garde image, art & craft image, kitsch image, vintage image, sexy casual image, and pop art image. The avant-garde image and the art & craft image are related with altistry and counter-culturalism. Kitsch image is related with the artistry, counter-culturalism, and the commercialism. Vintage image is related with artistry, counter-culturalism and commercialism. Sexy casual image is known to have commercialism of Hong-dae area, while Pop art image has its artistry and commercialism.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.86-100
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• 2005

This paper has examined how ugliness has aesthetically been portrayed in modern make-up. In the past, ugliness was regarded as an antonym of beauty, but it recently plays a role on part of beauty, as independent portion of art. It was Schegel who initially maintained the view. According to his theory, ugliness represents interesting things including suffering reality, shock, attention, humor, surprises brought by distort and deformation. Hegel had a different view on it. As for him, he had the notion that ugliness was the opposite to beauty and that it had to be dependent in art, he argued that art was subordinate to philosophy, and that it was just nostalgia for the past, not representing reality, therefore, it could not be a foothold in contemporary art. In this context, some images of ugliness can be classified accordingly to Schegel's view deteste, decadence and androgynous can be fallen into a category describing reality; fetish, kitsch and grotesque can be included in interesting things. There is no fine line between the two. There are sometimes things they have in common. They mutually draw attentions by distancing themselves from general images of beauty, or making many changes and distorts in its part, using unique materials, unprecedented attempts of colors which result in creative and shocking images. Attempts made in ugly images in modern art are widening its concept to depicting reality on the body of human beings, also creating its new definition, playing a major role in independent part of modern art, not in the past way like wearing make-up on the face to make it look better.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제16호
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• pp.41-69
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• 2013

The inauguration of the collective Reality and Utterance (Hy$\breve{o}$nsil kwa Par$\breve{o}$n) in 1979 and 1980 marked a watershed moment in Korean art. This is not only because the collective gave birth to the politically-engaged art movement that would come to be labeled "Minjung Art" by the middle of the 80s, but also because it enthusiastically embraced a wide range of images from the urban culture. With a special focus on the members' early work, my research explores an issue largely neglected in the dominant narrative of Minjung art as a form of activism against the authoritarian Korean government during the 80s. The issue is what was at stake in Reality and Utterance's exploration of contemporary urban visual culture. The aim of this essay is to recognize the engagement with the urban visual culture as central to the group's early project and to consider it at some distance from the anti-urban and anti-mass culture perspective which was endorsed by the Minjung narrative. Focusing on members' turn to urban visual culture, this essay instead argues that this turn was by no means merely a means to making art as social critique, but more importantly, it was an experiment with the shared image world, as opposed to the rarefied visual vocabularies of abstract modernism. Visual productions such as advertisements, billboards, posters, and kitsch paintings, which come from outside the narrow confines of fine art, were definitely ominous signs of the colonization of everyday life in the capitalist city, but at the same time they were anticipated to be a catalyst for redefining Korean art in a more communicative, accessible, and democratized way. In this regard, in the early 1980s-in particular 1980 and 1982-the members' gesture oscillated between critique and embrace, which allowed the group to occupy a unique domain in the realm of Korean art production.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.149-160
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• 2009

The purpose of this research is to analyze how contemporary hairstyles are expressed based on the recurrence and non-recurrence of simulation. The results of this study can be summarized as follows : 1) Recurrence appeared as imitation which re-expresses the image of past hairstyles, change which borrows unordinary objects from previous hairstyles, and expansion which extends the volume in hairstyles. 2) For nonrecurrence, there were an absence of hairstyles which rid reality, a sub-culture as a disband of fixed perceptions, a combination with other genres, an ambiguity of hairstyles appearing as a fusion effect and a Kitsch phenomenon, an ambiguity of hairstyles where a totally different third image appears through dichotomy concepts combined.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.369-392
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• 1998

In order to identify and describe the central core of fashion desire, the concept of“anti-aesthetics”and“open fashion”were analyzed based on the discourses of postmodernism dis-cussed in the field of sociology, culture, art and philosophy. In this paper, first, the new perspectives of fashion related to modernism and postmodernism were proposed, open concept, anti-aesthet-ics which is ephemerality but eternal ideology. Key principles of postmodernism as anti-aess-thetics mean the philosophy of nihilism proposed by Nietzsche indeterminency, the endd of original art(the death of art), the sublimity provided by Lyotard, and the pluralism to release human from the closed way of thinking, value, ideology. Second, the old and classical definition of fashion,“the differentiation of class”proposed by Veblen and Simmel has been changed into the“differentiation of taste”in postmodern condition. Third, the dichotomous system, that is, ration vs emotion, soul vs body, male vs female, culture vs nature, and so on has been deconstructed and disolved in the postmodern fashion phenomenon using the technique of anti-formalism, such as pastich, parody, bricolage an kitsch for the expression of sublimity and freedom of human.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.115-132
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• 2023

The globalization of Korean culture has spurred a steady increase in the participation of domestic fashion designers in global performance art. This study analyzes the formal elements of stage costume designs by fashion designers, and further evaluates the impact of these designers' aesthetic philosophies on overall performance. This analysis seeks to provide a foundation for the development of new directionality in performance art, with an enhanced competitiveness derived from diversity and creativity. The scope of this research spans 15 performances and eight fashion designers' works in the post-2010s era. These performances are characterized by their break from traditional artistic norms, illustrating the modernization of the performing arts and reflecting the designers' aesthetic philosophies. This modernization incorporates inspirations drawn from a diverse selection of movements, such as fusion, culture clash, kitsch, and minimal avant-garde. As a result, in combination with a pure reflection of the designers' aesthetics, these designs heighten overall performance, suggest a new direction for traditional performance art, tap into a popular sensibility to expand communication to a wider audience, and push the boundaries of tradition through artistic innovation.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제7호
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• pp.7-36
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• 2009

This paper intends to examine the significance of the "Minjoong Misool(People's art)" of the 1980s emerged in Korea in its social, cultural, and art historical context. This paper also aims to provide an analysis of the meaning and form of the individual artist's works, which have been overlooked under the dominant discourse that has emphasized their political role as a collective group. In particular, this paper scrutinizes the work of "Critical Realists" by examining the way in which they perceived Korean society in the early 1980s and visualized their experiences of the period. The figurative art newly emerged in the early 1980s challenged the formalist Modernism, which was adopted into Korea and translated into monochrome paintings and the work of the conversative academicism of the 1970s. The figurative art encouraged a social communication and moreover it intended to criticize the conflicts in the political, economical, and social domains in Korea. The targets of its critique include the unavoidable results of the unprecedented development of economy, various social phenomena of the post-industrial society, and the growth of the commercialized kitsch culture. Along with Shin, Hak-chul's work that incorporates collage technique since the 1980s, the work of some members of "Reality and Utterance" and "Im- sul-nyun" exemplify their critical interests in disclosing the false dream of wealth and happiness by both referring to and drawing on the utopian fantasy manipulated and distributed by mass media and commercial advertisements. This paper pays particular attention to Nouvelle Figuration emerged in France and Europe during the 1960s, which is comparable to the new figurative art emerged in Korea during the 1980s. Nouvelle Figuration criticized the autonomy in art isolated itself from political and social reality after WWII, in particular the indifference of Informel and abstract art as well as American abstract art. Moreover it became rather politicized around May of 1968. Given that French Nouvelle Figuration was introduced in Korea in 1982 and made a significant contribution to the formation of figurative art in Korea, it should be noted that the new figurative art emerged in the 1980s in Korea cannot be categorized merely in relation to People's Art. This paper intends to critically redress the notion that People's art was formed in the particular political, economical, and cultural context of Korea independent of the contemporary artistic practices outside Korea. It will provide a critical examination and analysis of the content and form of the new figurative art, from which People's Art was germinated, in the global context.

• 복식
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• 제64권5호
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• pp.18-29
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• 2014

Modern male has displayed an increased desire to express their social influence and image, and the male fashion market has had to provide various styles and images to fill these needs. The current domestic menswear market, however, is unable to satisfy the needs of male consumers who have a need for diversity in a rapidly changing society; more segmented fashion images and styles are needed. The purposes of this study are to classify fashion images and to establish character of the types. This study was done by performing a literature review and a survey. This study proposed 10 categories of fashion style images. Men's fashion style is classified into the classic image, sophisticated image, urban casual image, chic modern image, mods modern image, basic casual image, ethnic image, avant-garde image, active & outdoor image, and street-kitsch image. In the case of the classic images, common in formal setting, men's formal wear is the main focus with the classic suit. The sophisticated image is that of a colorful formal wear seasoned with elegance. Urban casual image is contemporary image, and therefore is meant for city life wear. Chic and modern image conveys an urban image by seeking a simple and chic feel. Mods modern image is retro yet dandy, giving off a sense of youthfulness compared to the other classic images. Ethnic image expresses the exotic quality of folklore as the main representatives of the character casual wear. Avant garde image portrays strong character casual wear with oversized silhouettes or exaggerated details. Active & Outdoor image is leisure life wear conveying active, functional images. Street Kitsch image is men's street casual wear with graphic patterns such as pop art and graffiti. This study's significance lies in its presentation of fashion style data, which can be utilized in the design and marketing of fashion targeted to males.

• 복식
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• 제50권3호
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• pp.13-30
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to analyzed the types of Deformation dipicted on the late 1990s western costumes. The late 20th century cultural experience or lifestyle is interpreted with 'popular culture' ,popular culture is described as cultural phenomenon in postmodern condition. Contemporary popular culture may no longer be strictly 'working-class' as the idealistic purists of political formalism would like to , but does emerge from subordinate cultures, from the inventive edges of the consensus, and from the previously ignored and suppressed. It gestured through a widening democratization of styles, sounds and images, to an important remarking , to new possibilities , new perpectives, new projects. The growing importance of popular culture as a source for change of expression in the art, expecially new desire and will of artists has been caused lots of ' Deformation' in their works. Deformation, doesn't mean to represent object faithfully as it were seen through the artist's eyes. In a sense it implies that artists deform it with conscious or unconscious form. So in this study , the phenomenon of the postmodern western costumes is to describe ' formative language' called 'Deformation.' and it is classified three types, that is, 'Deformation of human-body image.' , Deformation of silhouette.' 'Deformation of detail.'. First , Deformation of human-body image is represented by deconstructive , subversive image in western costumes, a lot of costumes types of deconstruction have been shown by fashion designers are emphasized empathy with Deformation of human-body image. Second, Deformation of silhouette is also represented subversion of traditional manner and ultiity, underwear and outwear structure and ugly image. parody image of postumodernism , and so on. Above all, the late 1990s western costumes with Deformation of silhouette was an infinitely larger and more complex world than it appeared from outside and has expressed as a rejection against the values which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued, And parody through the change of internal meaning is to bring about parodox, irony, contempt, satire , unexpectedness by applying the original to inapproporate subject through its substition, inversion. Third, Deformation of detail is represented overdecoration, exaggerative distortion of for , overlapping and fetish image, parody image, kitsch image, and so on , Once fetish achieve a certain' style factor' among trendsettler, they are picked up by internationally famous fashion designers, The characteristics of kitsch are overdecoration , unfitness , imitation , used western costumes.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.73-85
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to understand what the Glam Style is, focus on the movie "Velvet Goldmine". The Glam Style is refered early 1970s Glam rockers' costume, typified by silver lurex, corksoled platform, men in make-up, personified, for example, by David Bowie, Marc Bolan, New York Dolls, Roxy Music and Iggy Pop. To approach the Glam Style comprehensively, I have divided the formative background of Glam Style into the improvement technology, the advent of the young generation and the diffusion of mass media, the rock music fever and influence on Pop art. Following is the result of analyzing of the character in the movie. First, Brian Slade has the flamboyant transsexual image by skin-tight space suit, glitter pants, lurex, satin and sequined stretch fabrics, vivid color, gauze make-up, feather boa. Second, Curt Wild expresses the outrageous sexual image by black leather jacket, emphasized black eyes make-up. Third, Mandy Slade appears the exaggerated and frivolous image by gold leopard patterned one piece, fur coat, ornamented with beads, tropical make-up, spangles and the costume jewelry. Forth, Auther Stuart has the complex image by black leather jacket, velvet jacket, skin-tight bold shirt, glitter pants, glitter make-up, silk scarf, cherry-red sunglasses. The characteristics meaning of Glam Style implied in this formative characteristic could be presented as the experimental expression of androgynous, the hordes of outrageous alien and kitsch parody.