• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제20권3호
• /
• pp.353-359
• /
• 2018

In this study, fused deposition modellig(FDM) 3D printing technology has been applied directly to polyester voil fabric to produce 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics. A stereolithograpy(STL) file with a lace type 3D modelling under the various thickness were prepared and transformed into a g-code file using a g-code generator. The extrusion conditions for FDM 3D printing were controlled by 50mm/s of nozzle speed, $235^{\circ}C$ of nozzle temperature, $40^{\circ}C$ of heating bed temperature. 3D printed lace/voil composite fabriscs manufactured by 3D printing based on FDM using a thermoplactic polyurethane(TPU) filaments were obtained. To evaluate the mechanical properties and washability of the fabricated 3D printed lace/voil composite fabric, KES-FB system test, washing fastness test and dry cleaning resistance test were conducted. As 3D printing thickness increased, KOSHI, NUMERI, and FUKURAMI of 3D printed lace/voil composite fabric increased. From the results of the primary hand value test, 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics were confirmed to be applicable to women's summer garments. As a result of the washability and dry cleaning resistance test of the 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics, all samples were graded 4-5.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제42권4호
• /
• pp.561-570
• /
• 2018

This study defined the changes of mechanical properties of silk fabric according to bias angles and investigated the influence of bias angles and fabric characteristics on hand value. For the experiments, 4 types of commercial silk plain weave fabrics were chosen. All fabrics had the same density, but different yarn characteristics. Fabric samples were cut into 12 different bias angles between $0^{\circ}$ and $165^{\circ}$ with $15^{\circ}$ gap and measured for tensile, shear, bending, surface properties by the KES-FB system. As a result, most mechanical parameters showed an asymmetry shape with $90^{\circ}$. The most flexible and easiest angles are $45^{\circ}$, $135^{\circ}$. Furthermore, the bias angles of silk fabrics were classified into three clusters with mechanical properties such as WT, 2HG, 2HG5, B, and SMD. The parameters according to fabric samples showed significant differences at WT, RT, B, 2HB, and MIU. It showed bigger effects as yarn fineness; in addition, twists were higher except RT. The results of hand value indicated that Koshi and Hari were highest with a bias angle of $75^{\circ}$; however, Shinayakasa was highest at bias angle of $45^{\circ}$. Finally, Shari was lowest at $45^{\circ}$.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제30권6호
• /
• pp.870-879
• /
• 2006

In this study, the difference in the mechanical properties of silver and cotton weft knitted fabrics was studied. Six silver fabrics for the summer ladies' knit outwear were knitted varying knit structure and fabric density. Two commercial cotton knitted fabrics were selected to compare the properties. subjective sensation of hand of the fabrics was also studied. Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(THV) was carried out according to the KW-304 Summer. The result of the research show that silver weft knitted fabrics had lower LT, RT, G, 2HG and higher EM, W, LC, WC, RC than cotton weft knitted fabrics. The use of silver yam contributed to increase in surface roughness of knitted fabrics. As the silver knitted fabrics became thicker compressional energy increased. The use of silver yarns contributed to much better fabric handle compared with the use of cotton yam only. It appeared that coefficient of friction of tuck stitch was larger than that of plain and interlock stitch. KOSHI and FUKURAMI values of the tuck samples were significantly higher than those values of the plain and interlock samples, while SHARI values were low in general. The total hand value of tuck stitch was higher than those of interlock and plain stitch.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제10권3호
• /
• pp.173-180
• /
• 2008

Cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended (80:20) and tencel fabrics were treated with low temperature oxygen plasma, enzymes (cellulase or protease), or oxygen plasma-enzyme and they were examined for dyeing and handling properties for environment friendly finishing. The appropriate conditions for cellulase treatment were enzyme concentration of 3g/l, pH of 5, and $60^{\circ}C$ for one hour, and for protease treatment were enzyme concentration of 4g/l, pH of 8, and $60^{\circ}C$ for one hour. The equilibrium uptake of a direct dye on cotton changed with plasma treatment and plasma-cellulase treatment, and the rate of dyeing slightly decreased. When wool was dyed with acid dye, the equilibrium dye uptake did not change with plasma, protease treatment nor plasma-protease treatment, however, the rate of dyeing had increased with plasma-protease treatment. From these results, it is assumed that plasma attacks the surface of the fiber, and enzyme mainly affects the inner part of the fiber. Plasma treatment did not affect mechanical properties related to the handling of fabrics. The handling test showed increased extension at maxmum load(EM), tensile energy(WT) with decreased tensile resilience (RT), and the fabrics became softer but resilience decreased slightly with enzyme treatment. The bending recidity(B), hysteresis of bending moment(2HB), and hysteresis of shear force at five degrees(2HG5) decreased, however, shear stiffness(G) increased. I knew the plasma pre-treatment made fabrics softer with lower koshi(stiffness). The handling of plasma pre-treated fabrics was better than that of enzyme-treated fabrics. When we pre-treated fabrics, the handling test showed decreased coefficient of friction(MIU), geometrical roughness(SMD), while the surface of fabrics became smoother and numeri increased. Even though compression resilience(RC) increased, fukurami(bulky property) and compressive elasticity, decreased due to the linearity of compression-thickness curve(LC) and compression energy(WC).

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
• /
• 제23권3호
• /
• pp.317-328
• /
• 2012

In this study, printing was introduced to the common dip-dyeing method of persimmon juice dyeing so as to develop two different colored persimmon juice dyed fabrics with printings of 'jorangmal' patterns (a national monument) instead of producing a plain textile. Following are the results of a comparative study between the persimmon dyed fabric and undyed fabric, both with printings, in terms of its properties, and hand values. Cotton and rayon were chosen as samples and were compared separately. Firstly, the samples showed differences in terms of clarity and visual sensation depending on the presence of persimmon dye, even if the same pattern and color was used. Secondly, the air permeability of two samples improved after persimmon dyeing even though their thickness increased, and their moisture regain increased as well in all humidity conditions. Thirdly, protectiveness against UV increased in dyed samples, and sweat, sunlight, and compound colorfastness improved in printed dye-fabrics compared to plain dyed ones. Therefore, printing proved to be effective in preventing discoloration. Fourthly, tensile linearity and resilience, bending rigidity, compressive linearity and resilience, and shearing stiffness increased more in the dyed samples compared to undyed ones. However, shearing recovery decreased in both dyed fabrics. Fifthly, the result of its hand value showed that Koshi value increased in all samples than undyed ones, whereas Fukurami, Numeri, and Softosa values decreased. Incorporating printing in persimmon dyeing process could expect creative outcomes not only in today's diverse fashion but in areas of arts or crafts as well.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제34권5호
• /
• pp.754-764
• /
• 2010

Most silk fabrics are produced only after the degumming process to make the best use of the properties and have restricted silk processing that do not hinder their performance. However, considering the highly increased preference for natural fibers and the shortage of raw silk, high-quality upgraded silk product functions are required by the development of a processing technology and a good design. This study analyzes the changes with the samples by the functional finish such as softening finishing, wash and wear, tannin weighting by measuring the objective hand of scoured silk and three finished ones using KES-FB. As a result, the change of objective hand of finished silk fabrics that improves functionality was analyzed and compared. The increase of KOSHI after the finish became stiffer show that the silk fabric samples are appropriate for summertime clothes with the retention of a certain clothing climate for the body. The stiffness of finished fabrics for the normal had a closer relationship with the density of fabrics than the type of finishing. The samples (after the softening finishes) maintain better elasticity according to the properties of the softener and the finishing agent. Although the specimens of this study were thin fabrics, their elasticity against compression increased after the softening finishes and became softer than degummed silk. The surface properties of georgette were changed by all types of finishing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제12권5호
• /
• pp.676-682
• /
• 2010

Superior hydrophilic properties will allow varieties of polyester(PET) fiber materials, fabrics and industrial materials a broader scope of use. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of water-absorbent softener treatment on the end-use properties and the hand of polyester knitted fabrics. Two different fabrics were knitted for the summer ladies' outwear; PET jersey and PET mesh. Variables were softner treatment and stitch type(jersey and mesh). Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(T.H.V.) was calculated according to the KN-304 Summer. Both water-absorbent softner treatment and stitch types affected mechanical properties and hand values of PET fabrics. Mesh were thicker than single jersey stitch. As they became thicker, tensile, shear, and compressional energy increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction of mesh stitch was larger than that of single jersey stitch. The coefficient of friction and the mean deviation of surface roughness were decreased by softener treatment. After softner treatment KOSHI and SHARI of the both PET jersey and PET mesh decreased. However, FUKURAMI values of PET jersey increased and that of PET mesh decreased. The T.H.V. of the treated PET jersey was lower than that of the untreated one, while the T.H.V. of the treated PET mesh was higher than that of the untreated one. Overall T.H.V. of the single jersey was better than that of the mesh before and after softner treatment.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제21권8호
• /
• pp.1315-1322
• /
• 1997

Ramie is one of the traditional fabrics in Korea, and very comfortable fabric for summer clothes because it has a high moisture-absorbing and transporting property. Futhermore ramie is very popular and Koreans prefer its handle for summer clothes. The kansan ramie has better quality as fibers and can be weaved as fine fabrics which are famous as kansan Fine ramie. Even though the good quality of kansan ramie has known widely, very few research work have been carried out on kansan ramie in the field of textile science. In this study, the analysis of the physical and chemical characteristics of Hansan ramie was conducted by using two different kinds of Hansan ramie: Hansan Fine ramie and kansan Coarse ramie. In addition, the same experiment was held on the one kind of chinese ramie to be compared with those of Hansan ramie. The following results were obtained from this experimental study. By the analysis of chemical composition of ramie, the similar chemical composition (a -cellulose: 83∼85%, pectin substances: 2.81∼ 3.01%) were found from all of the ramie fabrics used in this study. It has shown that Hansan coarse ramie has the highest toughness value and wrinkle recovery angle among the samples used in this study. From the result of KES-F system, it was found that Hansan Coarse ramie which is composed with the thicker yarns has the highest value on the bending properties, 2HG and surface properties. The primary hand value was also calculated by KN-203 LDY and value of Koshi was shown as the order of kansan coarse ramie> Chinese ramie> kansan fine ramie, and Hansan fine ramie had shown the highest Numeri and Fukurami value among the 3 samples used in this study.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제8권3호
• /
• pp.357-362
• /
• 2006

This study is to evaluate the objective sensibility of the commercial lining fabrics. Five kinds of the linings were collected by adding taffetas with four kinds of fibers (polyester, nylon, rayon, and acetate) to one polyester stretch fabric. The six basic mechanical and hand properties were studied by using KES-FB system (Kawabata Evaluation System). The result of measuring the mechanical properties shows that polyester has high bending rigidity (B), that polyester-stretch has a high value of linearity of load-extension curve (LT), tensile energy (WT), tensile resilience (RT), and coefficient of friction (MIU) and a low value of bending rigidity(B), shear property, and geometrical roughness (SMD). The nylon has a high value of bending rigidity (B), shear property, and compression resilience (RC). The rayon has a high value of coefficient of friction (MIU) and linearity of compression-thickness curve (LC) and a low value of shear property, and the acetate has a low value of shear property. The result of hand value shows that polyester, nylon, and acetate are a high value of KOSHI (stiffness), NUMERI (smoothness), and FUKURAM (fullness & softness), and they feel stiff and massive, that rayon has a low value of NUMERI and FUKURAMI. The total result of hand value shows that polyester taffeta and polyester stretch fabric are about the same as the best material for the lining of a woman's dress for spring and summer, and the next thing is acetate, but nylon and rayon are somewhat inferior materials. This provides a fundamental data for the comfortable clothing production of a higher value-added product through the study on the mechanical and hand properties of the lining as well as the right side of fabrics.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제1권3호
• /
• pp.288-295
• /
• 1999

This study was conducted to examine the fatigue phenomenon of mechanical properties in tencel fabrics by repeated washing & shear and tensile deformation. The obtained results are as follows. After performing repeated shear tensile deformation, RT of tencel showed higher increase rate than that of cotton and rayon, whereas its WT and EM was a smaller decrease rate than that of them. This means that tencel's resistance to tensile deformation was the greatest. In the repeated washing and shear tensile deformation, tencel's 2HB, 2HG and 2HG5 showed a remarkable increase rate. In terms of deformation frequency, the greatest change rate appeared at the time of 1000 cycles of repeated shear tensile deformation and 15 times of repeated washing. In the hand value and THV, KOSHI showed a higher increase rate for tencel than for cotton and rayon in both repeated washing and shear tensile deformation, and NUMERI showed a higher increase rate. In the THV the change rate of rayon and cotton could be rarely seen but for tencel, it decreased. tencel's change rate of thermal insulation value by materials was 1.08%, and it increased as the washing frequency increased, compared to the grey fabrics, whereas the change rates of cotton and rayon were 0.74% and 0.22%, respectively. The qmax decreased in the order of cotton>tencel>rayon as the washing frequency increased.