• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.765-771
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• 2004

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences among 3 types of rapier looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these looms characteristics using KES-FB system. Raper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yam and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yam by rapier looms such as FAST-R, THEMA-11-E and PICANOL-GTX respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.792-800
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• 1996

The shape retention finishing provides a fabric for easiness of no-ironing after laundering. In spite of the obvious importance of the new finishing treatment, few systematic studies have been performed on the handle of the fabrics finished by the durable press process. The purpose of this research is to investigate the relationships among the mechanical properties, durable press conditions, primary hand values and the total hand value of the fabrics finished by shape retention process. In this experiment, durable press grade of unfinished fabrics decreased below 2.5, but those of finished fabrics maintained above 4, but the mechanical properties of finished fabrics did not change significantly after laundering. In finished fabrics, D.P. value were correlated with mechanical properties, but had little effects with H.V. and T.H.V. Since the evaluation of the effect of durable press process was done with the naked eyes and standard sample, we could not know exactly change o( mechanical properties, but trace the change of mechanical properties which gave influences on the durable press effects by using KES-FB System.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.61-67
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• 2001

In this study, the fabrics were woven with worsted grams of Nm 2/72 and the structure of 5 harness satin on rapier and air-jet loom with different weft insertion mechanism and then fabrics were finished in the same processes. Also the physical properties were measured with KES-FB system and discussed with the characteristics of looms for comparing the difference of physical properties of the worsted fabrics which were woven with two different looms under the same structure. Pot shearing and compression properties, then showed similar behavior and the fabric finishing processes were seemed to affect much more than the difference of the loom types. For the surface roughness, the rapier fabrics showed higher irregularity than the air-jet fabrics.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.119-128
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• 1998

Nonwoven fabrics for diaper coverstock were treated with chitosan solution by pad-dry method. Two chitosans of different molecular weigh(Mw) with similar degree of deacetylation(DDA) were used: Mw 1,800(chitosan oligomer, DDA 84%). Effect of chitosan treatment on the mechanical properties was investigated using KES-FB system. Primary hand values were calculated from mechanical properties using the same equation as the men's suiting equation with minor modification, and total hand values were calculated using new KN-5LNW equation for nonwoven fabrics developed by Kawabata et al. Increase in chitosan treatment concentration increased B, 2HB, WT, LT and RC, and decreased WC continuously. Chitosan treatment affected other mechanical properties regardless of molecular weight. Considering primary hand values obtained from mechanical properties, it was found that chitosan of Mw 180,000 and chitosan oligomer provided softer, smoother, and more bulky at below 0.05% and above 0.5% treatment concentration respectively. Samples treated with 1.0% chitosan oligomer solution, and 0.01％ chitosan solution of Mw 180,000 showed the best total hand values. (Korean J Human Ecology 1(2):119∼128, 1998)

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.182-187
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• 1999

The study was conducted on the change of value of physical properties, mechanical properties, appearance of seams as repeated washing and drying with 1, 3, 5, 7, 10, 15, 20 times. Commercial cotton 100%, cotton/polyester 80/20% and polyester 100% dress shirts were used to investigate drying characteristics and physical properties and compare of each materials after repeated drying. The mechanical properties like tensile, shear, surface, compression, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-FB system.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.11
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• pp.223-232
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• 2001

This study, by explaining the relationship between mechanical properties and clothing formability, aims to propose functional data for tailoring performance of fabrics of good tailorability. The KES-FB system was used to measure factors of mechanical properties and also the technique of stepwise-block-regression method was applied to investigate relationship between functional properties and mechanical properties of men's shirks. As results of vasual inspection of men's shirts, it showed that good fabrics had higher value in the LT, bending properties, shear properties and RC than poor fabrics in Total Appearance Value(TAV). And finally, A formula was obtained for calculating the VIA of men's shirts from functional properties which were calculated from the mechanical properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.272-281
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• 2001

Shrink resist finishing of wool fabric was carried out with MONAMIN BTN shrink resist agent after chlorination with D.C.C.A.(dichloro isocyanuric acid). The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of treating conditions, such as concentrations of D.C.C.A and MONAMIN BTN, pH of treating bath, dying times, curing times and temperatures, on shrink resist finishing. Mechanical properties of the treated fabric were measured by KES-FB system. The optimum chlorination of wool corresponds to 2∼3%(o.w.f.) of D.C.C.A. without rendering the damage on surface of wool fiber. Also it seems likely that the shirink resist finishing carried out at 2 ∼3%(o.w.f.) of MONAMIN BTN and pH 7∼8 of treating bath is effective in increasing a softness of hand.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.337-343
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• 2000

In this study, the five harness satins are weaved in rapier loom and air-jet loom each using the pure wool Nm 2/72, also the physical characteristics of fabrics that are produced in these weaving machinery in same condition are measured by using the KES-FB system. The results of analysis and comparison on each fabric are presented by classifying items, that is to say, the tensile, bending properties. The results we as follows ; The extensibility of grey fabric woven by rapier in the weft direction is larger than that by air-jet loom. The variation of bending property of grey fabric woven by rapier in the weft direction is more irregular than that by air-jet loom. However, these properties are similar both rapier and air jet fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.48-53
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• 2004

This study surveys the tension differences between Textec and Vamatex looms and analyses fabric mechanical properties using KES-FB system according to warp and weft tension differences. Fabric is designed as 5 harness satin weave using 150d/48f warp and 200d/384f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by $Omega^{\circledR$-Panter rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and P1001es rapier loom by Vamatex Co.Ltd., respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. Weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension on one fixed heald frame is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 1990

The cleaning resistance of tanned chrome garment leathers was investigated by using drycleaning solvents. Hydrocarbon, perchloroethylene and fluorocarbon (F-113) were used as solvent. Various test methods, such as color difference test, surface view by scanning electron microscope, mechanical properties measured by KES-FB System and their hand values and wearing abilities are carried out in this study. The results can be obtained as follows: 1. Fluorocarbon type (F-113) was demonstrated a suitable solvent for drycleaning of leather. 2. Perchloroethylene showed the worst in fading and stiffening among three different types of solvents.