• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2019

This study provides a comprehensive evaluation of general characteristics of sized silk fabrics for the painting purpose. Two particular types of silk fabrics used for painting background were compared: a recreation of historical material and a mass produced material of present day. The sizing process made the surface characteristics of the silk fabrics more suitable for painting. The dyeing properties of the fabrics were related to the surface area of the fabrics, and had no significant effect on their mechanical properties. The antibacterial activity of the tannin-based natural dyestuffs were maintained after the sizing. The performance assessment by the KES-FB system showed that the fabrics are more prone to deteriorate after the sizing because the glue layer receives the most of the physical stresses.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.33-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to eximine the effect of different yam twisting methods on mechanical properties and 3D CAD images of plain knitted fabrics made of composite yarns. Six yams were used in this study: four different composite yams of the six consist of acetate and functional polyester (Poly-m) with the ratio of 70:30, and the rest two are the original acetate $100\%$ yam and the poly-m $100\%$ yarn. The four kinds of composite yarns were processed in combinations of twisting processes such as interlacing, false twisting, two for one twisting, combined twisting and single covering, and the two original yams were knitted without any twisting process. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the six knitted fabrics, knitted under the same knitting conditions, were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. The results were as follows; 1) When the sample applied with the false twisting process at the temperature as high as $220^{\circ}C$, ENT, B, HB, G and RC values of samples increased which leads to increasing dimensional stability. 2) To gain the high bending and shear properties in the single covering process, selecting the core yarn with such properties is the most important factor. 3) Interlacing process effected to increase RC value. 4) False twisting process after interlacing process gave bulkiness and un-interlaced part in yam was increased SMD value. The SMD value of the kilted fabric of the composite yarn, which was put through the combined twist process, was higher than those of which simple process such as the two for one twist or the single covering process applied. In order to achieve the silk-like surface feel of knitted fabric, the sin91e covering process is recommended. 5) Examining the simulation images of the knifed fabrics of composite yarn, which were generated by the 3D CAD system based on the mechanical properties of the fabric, led that appearance could be changed as different twisting methods were applied.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.327-336
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• 2010

The purposes of this study are to evaluate mechanical properties and sensibility of tencel jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener, and to contribute to the research and development of the bedclothes made of the tencel jacquard fabrics. Mechanical properties and objective fabric hand evaluation were measured by using KES-FB system. Subjective sensibilities such as sensory, touch, and purchasing preference were estimated by using blind field test. The tensile properties such as EM, WT, and RT of tencel jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener showed increase. Bending properties and shear properties were decreased, but compression properties were increased compared to untreated fabric. With ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener treatment, thickness and weight were increased. Therefore, tencel jacquard fabrics became more stretchable, softer, and bulkier than untreated fabrics. Consequently, THV of tencel jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener were increased. When fabrics were treated sequentially with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener, fabrics were estimated softer, more flexible, and bulkier than untreated fabrics. Also, tencel jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener were estimated to have good touch and preference.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1008-1016
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• 2014

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of woven fabrics(cotton, linen, wool, silk, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers(10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system(one that a user to try garments through screens using Avatar) developed over the last decade. We experimented with four mechanical properties and thicknesses of twenty-three specimens of interlining bonded fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings by using the KES-FB-AUTO system. The results showed that the tensile property increased(LT and RT increased and WT decreased) as the denier of the interlining increased; however, the change was slight. In contrast, the bending and shear properties increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the warp and the weft. This showed evidence that the interlining gives the fabrics size stability. The compression property was slight changed as the tensile property varies depending on the fibers and the denier of interlining. As expected, the thickness increased by bonding the interlining as the denier of interlining increased. From these results, we conclude that 3D users need to reflect these changes of woven fabrics by bonding interlinings when they try screen fittings to accurately express the fabric reality of manufactured garment.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.206-214
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• 2013

There has been an increasing demand for high performance and energy-saving of blind. In order to develop the eco-friendly blind textiles, heat treatment process has been utilized for LM(Low Melting) polyester fabrics and the changes of the physical properties of the treated fabrics were examined according to temperature of heat treatment. Morphology, surface reflectance, contact angle, luster, thermal property and mechanical property of heat treated LM polyester fabrics were investigated. As results, morphology analysis of thermal treated fabrics confirmed that degree of fusion of LM polyester yarns improved with increase of temperature. Surface reflectance of thermal treated fabrics decreased with increase of temperature. Luster and contact angle of a water droplet on thermal treated fabrics increased slightly with increase of temperature. The mechanical properties of the fabrics by KES-FB system were found to be temperature-dependent and especially, bending and shear properties among them were highly related to temperature.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.272-281
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• 2010

This paper surveys the effects of drawing conditions of the worsted staple yarns on the mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics for highly aesthetical fabrics. The drawn worsted yarns were made on the yarn drawing system with various draw ratios under the fixed conditions of setting time, reduction and oxidation. The knitted fabric specimens were prepared on the 16 gauge circular knitting machine using these drawn worsted staple yarns. The tensile, shear, bending, compression and surface properties of these knitted fabrics were measured by KES-FB-AUTO-A system and also discussed with the drawing conditions. The tensile linearity, shear stiffness and bending rigidity decreased with increasing draw ratio. Any changes were not shown on the compressional properties with drawing conditions. But the friction coefficient of the knitted fabric on the course direction increased with increasing draw ratio, while there was no change according to the draw ratio on the wale direction.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.23-31
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• 2005

Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of wool/acrylic(W/A) blend knits were conducted before and after repeated washing to get the optimum W/A blending ratio, which could help achieve the optimum mechanical and hand properties of the knits. The five test fabrics using the yarns with different W/A blending ratios($\%$), 100/0, 70/30, 50/50, 30/70, 0/100, were knitted. The fabrics were washed by a rotating drum type washing machine. Then, objective mechanical and hand properties were evaluated by KES-FB, Kawabata evalution system for fabric. The results are as follows: there was no change in the hand value of the knitted fabric with the W/A-blended yarn caused by the change in the blending ratio before washing. After washing, however, the increase of acrylic's blending rate caused the bending property to decrease proportionally, while the friction coefficient of the surface property increased. Furthermore, the study showed that W/A 50/50 possesses the most superior tensile property and shearing property, which could attain the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in hand value were derived in all the samples. After washing, however, the increase in acrylic's blending rate caused a proportional decrease in KOSHI and an increase in FUKURAMI. In addition, W/A 50/50 gained the biggest NUMERI value, again corresponding to the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in total hand value were derived in all the samples before washing. After washing, though, all the total hand values decreased, and, as the wool fabric's blending rate increased, the total hand values proportionally decreased further.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.800-808
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• 1999

The demand for PU coated synthetic leather is increasing as a high fashion material. But it has some faults of water vapor permeability surface tacky property and static electricity. Therefore the purpose of this study was the produce of PU coated fabric added collagen with hydrophilic property and soft touch. In the PU coated fabric water vapor permeability water vaper absorption and frictional electronic voltage were investigated surface bending and compression properties were also examined by the use of KES-FB System. The followings were the results of this study. 1. There was no Cr in the collagen so that Cr was not treated in the collagen. 2. The surface and cross sectional layer of PU coated fabric with collagen were highly developed by micro porous structure. 3. The water vapor permeability of PU coated fabric was increased as collagen concentration increased. 4. The water vapor absorption of PU coated fabric was increased as collagen concentration increased. 5. The frictional electronic voltage of PU coated fabric was decreased in accordance with the increase of collagen concentration. Especially it effectively decreased by the use of only 5% collagen concentration. 6,. The bending and compression properties of PU coated fabric were increased in accordance with the increase of collagen concentration so that it became stiff. 7. The Value of MIU, SMD was decreased in accordance with the increase of collagen concentration so that the PU coated fabric became smooth.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.472-483
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the effects of knit samples' mechanical properties on changes of skirt length of knit flared skirt, and to compare it to the knitting method of a seamless knitted flare skirt. So, I compared the appearance and 3-dimensional shape of a seamless knitted flare skirt with those of a fully cut knit flared skirt. For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The results are as follows: The result of the evaluation of knit samples' mechanical properties by the KES-FB system showed that elongation decreased as gauge increased and course direction was greatest among grain directions. The length change after wearing the knitted flare skirts appeared wholly equal to the seamless knitted, compared with the cut and sew. The change was biggest at $180^{\circ}$, 7G of the cut and sew. In grain direction, bias cut showed more than 1.2cm of length change. As the weight and thickness increased, the length changes become larger. The regression analysis indicated that the greatest contributive variables on the length changes were elongation, weight, and thickness.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.240-248
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• 2017

This study compares general jacquard fabrics and jacquard fabrics with optical fiber on mechanical properties, sensibility and preference evaluation of fabric for the blind. The analysis also assesses the effect of optical fiber in the evaluation and identifies those best suited for consumers. The mechanical properties of jacquard fabrics were measured by the KES-FB system. Sensibility and the preference of the jacquard fabric for the blind were rated on tactile sensation by women experts in their 20's and 30's. It was found that the optical fiber in jacquard fabric affected the change of mechanical properties as well as sensibility and preference. Jacquard fabric with optical fiber were softer and more transformable, while the fabrics had lower recover property by shear force and compression as well as more violent unevenness. Jacquard fabrics were also classified into three hand factors of surface property, resilience and weightiness. There were significant differences on surface property perceptions and weightiness, hand and blind preferences by optical fiber. Jacquard fabrics that contained optical fiber were not preferred by the blind because they were perceived to be uneven and heavy. Those, that were smooth and light, were preferred for jacquard fabric; in addition, fabrics preferred by the blind had good compression.