• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.626-634
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• 2017

This study investigated garment formability of the 73 breathable fabrics for sports-wear garment and their fabric mechanical properties were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Predicted garment formability from the mechanical properties measured using KES-FB and FAST systems was compared and discussed with fabric structural parameters. In addition, virtual 3D simulation silhouette by I-designer CAD system wear appearance by simulation using 3D CAD system. And compared with FAST finger chart by mechanical properties of FAST system. The correlation coefficients of extensibility and shear modulus between KES-FB and FAST systems were high, however, bending rigidity and compressibility showed relatively low correlation coefficients. The correlation coefficient of garment formability of breathable fabrics between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.82. It revealed that garment formability can be predicted from fabric mechanical properties by KES-FB and FAST systems. The garment formability of nylon breathable fabric was higher than that of PET one, and the garment formability of laminated breathable fabric showed the highest value compared to coated, dot and hot melt laminated breathable fabrics. It revealed that garment formability of breathable fabrics for sports-wear can be predicted from fabric mechanical properties and garment formability was dependent on the materials, finishing method and fabric structural parameters.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.667-673
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to obtain drape information and objective texture of fabrics easily and quickly by using a constructed fabric database. For the construction of the fabric database, 287 woven fabrics were examined by using the CLO fabric kit, KES-FB system, and drape test system. The k-means cluster analysis method was used to classify the fabrics into 7 grades. After correlation analysis of the fabric properties for each experiment, similar properties of the CLO fabric kit and KES-FB system were chosen, which were then designed to extract similar fabrics from the database. It was confirmed that inferring the drape information and objective hand feeling of fabrics was to some extent possible by extracting similar fabrics from the database. In this study, the primary hand and total hand value(THV) of KES-FB system, which was constructed by Kawabata and other experiments, were used to quantify the objective hand feeling, because they are the most widely used. However, these standards can be changed over time; in order to be applied within the clothing industry, these standards may have to be changed to some extent. Moreover, it is notable that although objective hand feeling cannot be expressed in the 3D virtual costume program, it can be easily derived from the constructed database. Additionally, it is expected that the existing 3D virtual costume program will express the costumes more realistically by improving these results.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.515-522
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• 2020

This study examined the effect of the blend ratio of wool and polyester fibers, yarn and fabric structural parameters to the appearance property and the formability of worsted fabrics. The mechanical properties of twenty types of manufactured worsted and PET/wool blend fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Garment formability increases with the thickness and cover factor as well as increases with wool content. The correlation between KES-FB and FAST system showed a relatively high correlation with an extensibility of 0.98, bending and shear rigidity 0.71; both were higher than polyester synthetic fiber. The correlation coefficient of garment formability between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.93 and the correlation coefficient between formability and fabric extensibility was 0.8. These results were higher than those of bending and shear rigidity. This revealed that garment formability was influenced by wool content, cover factor and fabric thickness; however, wool content and fabric thickness were the most important factors for the seam pucker. The garment formability of the worsted fabrics can be predicted by fabric mechanical properties measured from KES-FB and FAST systems.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.344-352
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• 2017

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.245-249
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• 2006

The effect of scouring, bleaching and dyeing on the low stress mechanical and surface properties of wool woven fabrics was studied. Fabric properties were measured by the KES-FB system. In general, mechanical properties of the treated fabrics are greatly affected by scouring, moderately by dyeing and least by bleaching.

• 감성과학
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.299-306
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• 2007

본 연구에서는 남성용 소모직물의 품질향상을 위해 국외 유명 브랜드 소모직물의 물성을 분석하고 이를 바탕으로 국내 소모직물을 시생산하여 국외 소모직물과 비교 분석하였다. 분석방법은 의류소재의 객관적인 평가방법인 KES-FB system과 국내 복지 전문가 등에 의해 평가된 주관적인 평가방법인 Blind field test 방법으로 소모직물의 물성을 평가하여 두 측정 방법 간의 결과를 비교해 보고자 한다. 본 연구에서는 이태리와 영국 그리고 국내에서 생산된 7개 품종의 14개 소모직물 시료를 사용하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.149-159
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• 2009

The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.26-36
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• 2005

This study was carried to evaluate mechanical characteristics of Poly(ethylene terephthalate) fabrics (by Kawabata evaluation system(KES)) which was systematically treated with $O_2$ low temperature plasma and chitosan acetate solution. Furthermore, surface structure was investigated by SEM, AFM, air permeability and wettability. Tensile energy(WT), shear rigidity(G) and surface roughness(MIU) properties calculated by KES-FB have increased with increasing plasma treatment time, while bending rigidity(G) and energy of compression(WC) value were decreased compared with those of the untreated. SEM photographs showed the identification of chitosan coating but did not confirm the plasma etching structure. Air permeability was decreased according to plasma treatment time with increasing concentrations of chitosan. The water absorption rate made rapid progress by chitosan treatment.

• 감성과학
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.47-52
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• 2002

직물의 태는 손으로 만져 보았을 때 느껴지는 감촉, 육안으로 느껴지는 감각, 그리고 직물의 물리적 역학적 성질 등이 함께 어울어져 이루어지는 것이다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 폴리에스테르 원형사와 삼각사로 제직된 직물의 태와 온/냉감 및 광택도를 측정하였다. 삼각단면사로 제직된 직물이 원형단면사로 제직된 직물보다 더 좋은 태를 보였으며 열전달계수가 크게 나타나 냉감을 느낄 수 있었으며 높은 반사율을 보였다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.63-68
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• 2008

The hand of the sensitive mixture fabrics was analysed and discussed with measured mechanical properties of two kinds of woven fabrics according to the characteristics of air-jet loom. The 16 mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface were measured using KES-FB system and their differences of the mechanical properties between domestic and foreign looms were analysed with the deviation according to the position of the specimen. And also these mechanical properties according to the domestic and Japan air-jet looms were analysed and discussed with warp and weft insertion tensions during weaving. This research is aiming to make a data base of fabric mechanical properties and, these analysed data are given to weaver as a basic research data related to the effects of loom characteristics to the sensitive mixture fabrics required from weaving fields.