• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.19 no.5
• /
• pp.626-634
• /
• 2017

This study investigated garment formability of the 73 breathable fabrics for sports-wear garment and their fabric mechanical properties were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Predicted garment formability from the mechanical properties measured using KES-FB and FAST systems was compared and discussed with fabric structural parameters. In addition, virtual 3D simulation silhouette by I-designer CAD system wear appearance by simulation using 3D CAD system. And compared with FAST finger chart by mechanical properties of FAST system. The correlation coefficients of extensibility and shear modulus between KES-FB and FAST systems were high, however, bending rigidity and compressibility showed relatively low correlation coefficients. The correlation coefficient of garment formability of breathable fabrics between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.82. It revealed that garment formability can be predicted from fabric mechanical properties by KES-FB and FAST systems. The garment formability of nylon breathable fabric was higher than that of PET one, and the garment formability of laminated breathable fabric showed the highest value compared to coated, dot and hot melt laminated breathable fabrics. It revealed that garment formability of breathable fabrics for sports-wear can be predicted from fabric mechanical properties and garment formability was dependent on the materials, finishing method and fabric structural parameters.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.23 no.5
• /
• pp.667-673
• /
• 2021

The purpose of this study was to obtain drape information and objective texture of fabrics easily and quickly by using a constructed fabric database. For the construction of the fabric database, 287 woven fabrics were examined by using the CLO fabric kit, KES-FB system, and drape test system. The k-means cluster analysis method was used to classify the fabrics into 7 grades. After correlation analysis of the fabric properties for each experiment, similar properties of the CLO fabric kit and KES-FB system were chosen, which were then designed to extract similar fabrics from the database. It was confirmed that inferring the drape information and objective hand feeling of fabrics was to some extent possible by extracting similar fabrics from the database. In this study, the primary hand and total hand value(THV) of KES-FB system, which was constructed by Kawabata and other experiments, were used to quantify the objective hand feeling, because they are the most widely used. However, these standards can be changed over time; in order to be applied within the clothing industry, these standards may have to be changed to some extent. Moreover, it is notable that although objective hand feeling cannot be expressed in the 3D virtual costume program, it can be easily derived from the constructed database. Additionally, it is expected that the existing 3D virtual costume program will express the costumes more realistically by improving these results.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.19 no.3
• /
• pp.344-352
• /
• 2017

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.1
• /
• pp.149-159
• /
• 2009

The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.8
• /
• pp.1142-1152
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to verify the visual perception on various cotton fabrics of the same color. Results obtained through subjective evaluation of cotton fabrics showed that the textural adjectives could be classified into 3; warm/cool, flexibility and surface property, the sensibility adjectives into 5; simple, attractive, masculine, conservative, comfortable and visual perception adjectives into 6; hard, warm, smooth, brilliant, classic and casual. Image distribution results on 12 different fabrics, showed different distributions among textiles on visual perception due to varying texture and sensibility. In thickness, weight, weave type, bending and surface characteristics which are structure characteristics, significant differences were shown for visual perception examination. Having placed into an image scale, visual perception dimension developed divided into the ＇soft-hard＇ axis and the ＇warm-cool＇ axis.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
• /
• 1999.03a
• /
• pp.219-219
• /
• 1999

마직물은 통기성, 흡수성, 투습성이 좋고 건조가 빠른 편이므로 여름철 직물로 많이 사용되어 왔다. 마직물은 또한 뻣뻣하며 몸에 감기지 않고 촉감이 깔깔하여 시원한 느낌을 주며 다른 직물에 비해 강직하고 표면이 거칠고 드레이프성이 떨어지는 등의 독특한 태를 가지고 있다. KES-F 시험기에 의해 여러 물성량들을 종합적으로 계측할 수 있게 됨에 따라 의복의 착용감에 만족을 주는 소재의 성능에 대한 연구가 종래의 주관적평가에서 KES-F 시스템을 이용하여 객관적으로 태를 예측하는 방법으로 진행되고 있다. 그러나 태를 평가하는 객관적 방법에서는 일반적으로 Kawabata와 Niwa에 의해 만들어진 평가식들이 주로 사용되나 이런 식들은 주로 모직물이나 합성섬유직물들을 평가하기에는 적합하지만 마직물의 독특한 태를 평가하기에는 부족하다고 생각된다. 마직물의 태가 기존의 객관적 평가방법만으로는 규명되지 않기 때문에 주관적 태평가방법을 아울러 실시해야 할 필요가 있다고 생각된다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 마직물의 태를 평가하는 방법의 하나로 주관적 평가척도를 개발하고 이 척도를 사용하여 마직물의 주관적인 태 특성을 살펴보았다. 그리고 KES-FB 시스템을 사용한 객관적인 태를 측정하여 주관적 평가치와 객관적 측정치로부터 태 평가의 산출식을 유도하였다. 실험에 사용된 직물은 혼방률, 밀도, 두께 등이 다양한 암, 저마 그리고 마혼방직물과 한산모시, 중국마, 신합섬 직물 등 총 54종을 사용하였다. 마직물의 주관적 태 평가를 위해 26문항의 형용사쌍으로 구성된 9점의 의미미분척도를 개발하였으며 이 척도를 사용해 주관적 평가를 실시하였다. 또 객관적 평가를 위해 KES-FB 시스템을 통해 역학적 특성치를 구하였다. 주관적 평가를 실시한 결과 마직물의 태에 영향을 미치는 7개의 요인이 추출되었다. 이 요인들은 표면성질, 신축성/드레이프성, 중량감, 강연성, 회복성, 수분특성, 밀도감이었으며, 요인들로 설명되는 누적분산값은 67.18%였다.주관적 평가의 결과와 객관적 평가 결과를 이용해 마직물의 태를 평가하는 산출식을 제시하였다. 태 평가치의 경우 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법과 stepwise 방법, 또 Kawabatark 사용한 순차적 군 회귀법의 세가지 방법의 회귀식 중 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법의 결정계수가 가장 높았다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.31 no.9_10
• /
• pp.1453-1464
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the hand of spring/fall fabrics for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' on subjective hand, objective hand and the preference. In this study, 28 varieties of spring/fall fabrics such as cotton fabrics, synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' are used. To evaluate the subjective hand of fabrics, the holistic touch and preferences, 33 seven ranks' segmentic differential scale questions are developed with adjective pairs and are gathered by surveying experts on clothes. The mechanical properties, HV and THV of them are measured and calculated by KES-FB system. Through subjective hand, items could be classified into six hand expressions: 'bulky/extensibility', 'stiffness', 'feeling of weight', 'surface property', 'drapability' and 'moisture property'. Through mechanical properties, the results indicated that the character of cotton fabrics are slight flexible, tough, rough, uneven, a bit heavy, thick and low resilience on tensile and compression, and then those of synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric are thin and light, smooth, flat and bulkless. In correlation on subjective evaluations and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok', cotton fabrics mainly depend on 'surface property' and 'moisture property' and then synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk depend on 'bulky/extensibility' and 'surface property' In correlation on objective hand and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok'. people aren't satisfied with low resilience. high stiffness and low drape.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.24 no.4
• /
• pp.149-156
• /
• 2021

The mechanical properties of a woven fabric made of SiC (silicon carbide) fibers were determined in this study using the KES-FB system. The woven fabric is used in high heat settings above 1500℃. Composite spun yarns were used to create SiC fibers. By analyzing the wearing properties, we studied the prospect of using the textiles as fire-retardant work clothes. Mechanical properties determine the wearing attributes. Therefore, the tensile linearity (LT), tensile resilience (RT), and shear stiffness (G) values of the fabric varied according to the yarn type (filament or spun yarn). The thickness, weight per square meter, and density of the fabric were found to have an effect on the shear hysteresis (2HG) and compression resilience (RC) values. In terms of wearable clothing qualities, the fabric qualities of the SiC composite yarn demonstrated the highest ratio of compressive energy to thickness (WC/T), which indicates bulkiness. The fabric manufactured from SiC composite yarns passed the KFI criteria for carbonation length and cumulative flame time in the flame-retardant test. Therefore, we discovered that the material can be used as a fire-resistant work cloth.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
• /
• 1998.10a
• /
• pp.360-364
• /
• 1998

지금까지, 천의 주관적인 태평가는 역학적인 특성에 의하여 결정된다고 연구되고 있다. 특히 KES-FB 시스템은 천의 역학적인 특성을 통계학적인 방법으로 객관화한 소프트웨어이다[1], 대체적으로 직물에 비해 편성물은 측정의 어려옴, 지역적인 기후특성, 문화적인 차이 때문에 태를 평가하는데 적용하기 난해한 면이 있다[2]. 종합적인 태는 천의 사용 용도와 사람의 정신적인 특성에 대한 반영이 개입되어야 하므로 적용하기에 곤란하지만, 최근에 응용되고 있는 퍼지이론과 신경망이론을 통하여 전체적인 태평가가 가능하리라 본다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
• /
• 2001.05a
• /
• pp.280-285
• /
• 2001

폴리우레탄 코팅포의 촉감을 예측하기 위하여 신경망 이론이 사용되었다. 본 연구에서는 Neural Connection의 MLP(Multi Layer Perceptron)를 신경망 분석에 사용하였으며, 학습 알고리즘은 백프로파게인션(Backpropagation)을 이용하였다. 사용된 변수는 KES-FB시스템에서 측정된 17가지 역학적 특성치를 설명변수, 촉감치를 목표변수로 하였다. 폴리우레탄 코팅포의 촉감을 정확하게 예측할 수 있는 신경망 모델을 찾기 위해, 은닉층의 노드수를 8에서 34로 변화시켜 보았다. 또한 MLP적용함수로 선형함수, 비선형 시그모이드함수, 탄젠트 함수를 사용하여 목표변수를 예측하여 모형의 정확도를 살펴보았다. 구축된 신경망모델은 17가지 역학적특성치 자료를 이용하여 학습되었으며 학습 완료 후 학습에 사용되지 않은 시료를 시스템에 적용하여 학습된 신경망 시스템이 촉감을 평가하게 한 후 주관적으로 평가된 촉감치와 비교하여 본 시스템의 판단의 정확성을 평가하도록 하였다. 은닉층의 노드수와 MLP적용함수는 촉감예측에 영향을 미치는 것으로 나타났는데, 촉감 예측에 가장 적절한 모형은 MLP 적용함수가 탄젠트 함수이고 노드수가 22인 것으로 나타났다. 신경망을 통한 폴리우레탄 코팅포의 촉감 예측력은 선행연구에서 이용된 통계적 방법보다 높게 나타나 폴리우레탄 코팅포의 촉감예측에 신경망의 이용은 효과적인 것으로 밝혀졌다.