• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.641-647
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• 2012

This study investigates the sound properties of fabric frictional sound (SPL, ${\Delta}L$, ${\Delta}f$) according to the film type of PTFE laminated vapor-permeable water-repellent fabrics in order to understand the relationship between SPL and the basic properties of fabrics such as layer, yarn type, and thickness of fiber. This study accesses their mechanical properties and determines how to control them to minimize SPL. Eight PTFE laminated water-repellent fabrics, composed of four different film types (A, B, C, D) and with two different fabrics, were used as test specimens. Frictional sounds generated at 1.21m/s were recorded by using a fabric sound generator and SPLs were analyzed through Fast Fourier Transformation (FFT). The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured by KES-FB. The SPL value was lowest at 74.4dB in film type A and highest as 85.5dB in type D. Based on ANOVA and post-hoc test, specimens were classified into less Loud Group (A, B) and Loud Group (C, D). It was shown that SPL was lower when 2 layer (instead of 3 layer), filament yarn than staple, and thin fiber than thick were used. In Group I, shearing properties (G, 2HG5), geometrical roughness (SMD), compressional properties (LC, RC) and weight (W) showed high correlation with SPL however, elongation (EM) and shear stiffness (G) did with SPL in Group II.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.150-158
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• 2000

This study investigated mechanical properties, drape coefficients and node indices of stretch fabrics. We applied mechanical properties to exhibited tailorability control in HESC and evaluated making-up. The mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-F system and drape coefficient by drape tester. The summarized results of this study were as follows; First, stretch fabrics, almost, shown high stretch in weft inserted polyurethane yarn fabric and had a ${\pm}2{\sigma}$(sigma) range of shearing, compression, surface and thickness, except bending and weight, as compared with Japanese women's thin dress fabrics. Second, bending had a positive correlation in stiffness, anti-drape and flexibility & softness. Shearing had a negative correlation in crispness and scroop. Surface properties had a high contribution in fullness & softness. Third, The drape coefficient was found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regression equation. Forth, many problems are expected in overfeed and cutting operations in sewing process. In the decision of the good external appearance using TVA, only 26 of 55 samples are included in the range of the good external appearance. Fifth, in the regard of the result for sewing control, warp values are not necessary to control in the all kind of items. But weft value in the RT and EM are out of non-control zone. So we need a special management during sewing process.

• Journal of Korean Society on Water Environment
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.768-783
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• 2006

Biological stream environment assessment has been an essential trend of aquatic ecosystems among advanced countries, because the chemical water quality assessment has limitations that only represent temporal water environmental status. Benthic macroinvertebrates are the most popular bioindicator group useful to biological water quality assessment for a long time. In addition, a number of indices using benthic macroinvertebrates have recently been developed not only for water quality assessment but also for ecological health assessment. In this paper Korean Saprobic Index (KSI) based on Zelinka-Marvan's saprobic valency concept is developed by applying DIN 38410 in Germany. The KSI value was widely applicable to most Korean streams with the exception of sand-based large streams, for example main stream of Nakdong River. But as a result of non-linear regression analysis the correlation between KSI and $BOD_5$ concentration was high and KSI reflected water quality alteration for mid and long-term period. In spite of applicability of KSI, it should be supplemented and developed to make it strong by accumulating field data as well as to manage integrated water environment in general through continuous biomonitoring.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.33-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to eximine the effect of different yam twisting methods on mechanical properties and 3D CAD images of plain knitted fabrics made of composite yarns. Six yams were used in this study: four different composite yams of the six consist of acetate and functional polyester (Poly-m) with the ratio of 70:30, and the rest two are the original acetate $100\%$ yam and the poly-m $100\%$ yarn. The four kinds of composite yarns were processed in combinations of twisting processes such as interlacing, false twisting, two for one twisting, combined twisting and single covering, and the two original yams were knitted without any twisting process. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the six knitted fabrics, knitted under the same knitting conditions, were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. The results were as follows; 1) When the sample applied with the false twisting process at the temperature as high as $220^{\circ}C$, ENT, B, HB, G and RC values of samples increased which leads to increasing dimensional stability. 2) To gain the high bending and shear properties in the single covering process, selecting the core yarn with such properties is the most important factor. 3) Interlacing process effected to increase RC value. 4) False twisting process after interlacing process gave bulkiness and un-interlaced part in yam was increased SMD value. The SMD value of the kilted fabric of the composite yarn, which was put through the combined twist process, was higher than those of which simple process such as the two for one twist or the single covering process applied. In order to achieve the silk-like surface feel of knitted fabric, the sin91e covering process is recommended. 5) Examining the simulation images of the knifed fabrics of composite yarn, which were generated by the 3D CAD system based on the mechanical properties of the fabric, led that appearance could be changed as different twisting methods were applied.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.58-65
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• 2002

This study surveys the physical properties of Solo-spun fabrics related to the characteristics of Solo-spun yarns, which were described in previous reports. For this purposes, 6 kinds of fabrics were woven on the pilot loom. 3 kinds of Solo-spun yarns with the 3 level of twist mutiplier of Nm 1/30 and 3 kinds of conventional ring-spun yarns with the same levels of twist multipliers of the same yarn counts. The fabrics were of 2/2 twill and clear-cut finished. The physical properties were surveyed by means of KES-FB system. Solo-spun fabrics seemed to be stiffer than ring spun fabrics as showing the lower extensibility with higher tensile energy, the higher bending rigidity, and the higher shear rigidity. Solo-spun fabrics showed the lower value in surface friction coefficient and surface roughness. For fabric abrasion tests, Solo-spun fabrics showed the higher pill resistance.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.163-172
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• 2010

In order to investigate the changes in mechanical properties of sanitary nonwoven fabrics actually used as a top sheet, the fabric was treated with a mixture of chitosan and nanosilver colloidal solution in accordance with the prescribed ratio. The former is a natural polymer with excellent biocompatibility and the latter can give an additional performance while compensating the weaknesses of chitosan of deteriorating adherence efficiency. It was shown that the bending and shearing characteristics of the chitosan/nanosilver treated fabrics decreased, which helped to make it softer, smoother and more flexible. The shape stability and drapability of the treated fabrics improved. As KES-FB system evaluation showed that Koshi was deduced, and both Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the chitosan/nanosilver treated fabrics were smoother to provide elasticity. In the change of hand value compared to chitosan only treatment, a better THV was shown in the fabrics treated with chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution than the fabric treated with chitosan alone.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.20-24
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• 2001

The primary objective of this study was to empirically explore the mechanical properties of marketing Korean fabrics by using KES-FB system and estimate the sewability of Korean clothes by the mechanical properties. From the empirical research, it was found that Korean fabrics for spring and summer has been transformed easier and less flexible by shearing Korean fabrics for autumn and winter. Also, it was found that there is a significant difference in the hand value as tensile, surface and compression. It was found that Korean fabrics for spring and summer has a stiffness and elastic properties of matter and Korean fabrics for autumn and winter has a bulky and abundant elasticity. Finally, it was found that Korean fabrics for autumn and summer in the joint of account of the mechanical properties. Also, the difficulties of process has been expected by sewability like seam-pucker, over feed, sewing and steam-press.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2008.10a
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• pp.59-60
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• 2008

본 연구는 섬유의 구조적, 광학적 설계에 의해 빛의 간섭현상을 이용하여 색을 발현하는 구조발색 의류소재의 개발을 위하여 삼각단면의 구조발색섬유를 방사하고 직물을 제직한후 온도와 시간에 따른 삼각단면 섬유소재의 감량조건을 달리하여 그에 따른 $Prism^{(R)}$ 의류용 직물의 역학물성 및 태 특성을 측정하였다. 역학물성에는 인장특성, 인열특성을 측정하였으며 KES-FB system을 이용하여 역학물성을 측정 후 Hand value를 산출하였다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.182-187
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• 1999

The study was conducted on the change of value of physical properties, mechanical properties, appearance of seams as repeated washing and drying with 1, 3, 5, 7, 10, 15, 20 times. Commercial cotton 100%, cotton/polyester 80/20% and polyester 100% dress shirts were used to investigate drying characteristics and physical properties and compare of each materials after repeated drying. The mechanical properties like tensile, shear, surface, compression, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-FB system.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.86-98
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• 2009

The fashion industry saw the emergence of environment-friendly and natural fabric materials recently. The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Ramie and hemp have long been favored fabric materials in Korea especially for summer. The hand-related mechanical/physical properties of the fabric specimens were analyzed using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). Subjective evaluation was also implemented based on a series of selected adjectives. Studies on natural dyeing methods are important since the establishment of scientific approach is needed in terms of environment and human safety along with the reproduction of traditional natural dyeing methods. In this study, linen, ramie, hemp, and cotton/polyester/linen union fabric specimens were used for the natural dyeing using Rubia akane Nakai with the mordant of gallnut. ${\Delta}E$ values of dyed fabric specimens, mordanted and dyed once using Rubia akane Nakai, increased significantly compared to those of repeatedly dyed fabric specimens without mordanting.