The main purpose of this paper was to investigate how ethnic dresses are adopted into modern fashion designs. This research focuses on Japan and Vietnam as a part of an ongoing larger project which examines ethnic dresses of five Asian countries. Fashion designs with influences of Japanese and Vietnames ethnic dresses were anlayzed in order to explore how ethnic dresses coexist with "world fashion" in contemporary society. Eight fashion magazines were examined and the pictures of eigher Japanese or Vietnamese influences were identified. A total of 66 pictures for Japan and 5 for Vietnam were analyzed in terms of eleven characteristics on zero-to-three scales according to authenticity of each characteristic. The characteristics included shape, item, silhouette, color, material, textile print, decorative details, method of dressing, accessories, hairstyle and make-up. The results showed that textile prints and color of Japanese ethnic dresses, and item, silhouette and hat of Vietnamese dresses were most frequently adopted in modern fashion designs. These suggested that fashion world adopts the most distinctive and easy-to-copy characteristics of the ethnic dresses when the designers wanted to incorporate the styles of ethnic dresses.c dresses.
Globalizing the Japanese fashion successfully, Hanae Mori's work awoke the western fashion world's nostalgia towards the East. Analyzing the aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes what kinds of aesthetic characteristic that her work had and what kinds of influences that she made in the modern fashion would provide substantial contribution of the world's modern fashion. This study provided forms and remarkable features of Japanese traditional custom, revealed Hanae Mori's life and her philosophies of fashion, and defined Hanae Mori's aesthetic characteristics by analyzing her work from 1970's until the retirement, July 2004. Methods of this study are completed by documentary records of Hanae Mori, research papers and fashion magazines that are published domestically and internationally, and collected materials from internet. The results of analysis are epitomized as below. Hanae Mori was the first Japanese fashion designer who expressed the characteristics of traditional Japanese custom with modernity sprit. In the 60's and 70's, especially in the U.S. and European fashion market, she inspired western fashion designers by her original sprit of art: combining Japanese tradition which showed distinctive color and spirit of nature and the western beauty. Hanae Mori created new dress molding from the Kimono's unstructured feature. Her layered look dressing, oblique adjustment and Obi, and others all enabled Mori to express Japanese image into modern fashion. Additionally, in terms of traditional Japanese image being acknowledged world-widely, she played a major contribution in world fashion by suggesting a new vision and raised several sensations in fashion artistry and modeling. Amongst her various patterns, Hanae Mori had butterfly patterns in most of her works, which was her representative symbol. This spoke for her strong will and senses of duty that wanting to inform beauty of Japanese women who were reflected in modern and graceful butterfly patterns. Flowers were another element that symbolized Mori. Using various flower motifs that bloomed in every different four seasons, she connected two images into her fashion; beauty of the nature and enlightening image of vibrating life. The aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes were defined as five: Japonism, naturalism, feminism, eroticism, and modernism. Japonism which is the spirit of Japanese, Mori used the concept to connect the East and the West. Naturalism represented harmony of the nature and the human. Feminism highlighted Eastern women's beauty. Eroticism emitted feminine attraction. Modernism represented simplicity and sophistication. Such aesthetic character illustrated Mori's original emotion that was based on Japanese spirit and she combined it with values of the East and the West. From the analysis of Mori's aesthetic characteristics, it is clearly recognizable her feministic beauty is emanated by her original emotion and sensibility.
The Bauhaus educational method gave the strong influences on Modern Japanese art and design education. In the 1920s and 1930s, Japan allied with Germany and Italy politically and tried to receive German system to be modernized. The reception of the Bauhaus and Moholy-Nagy's photographic theory was one of those activities at that time. Japanese intellectual class went to the Bauhaus and studied there; Ishimoto Kikuchi, Nakata Sadanosuke, Mijutani Takehiko, Yamawaki Iwao and Yamawaki Michiko(Yamawaki Iwao's wife). Especially, Yamawaki Iwao studied about the architecture at the Bauhaus, but his interest moved toward the photography and the photomontage based on Moholy-Nagy's theory. He studied at the photography workshop of the Bauhaus presented by Peterhans irregularly. Even though Yamawaki Iwao was an architect, he wanted to be admitted as an expert for the photomontage that he particularly studied at the Bauahus as a Bauhaus member. He had presented many articles about the photomontage at the photography magazines in Japan in order to introduce it to Japan since he returned in 1933. Thus, Yamawaki Iwao is the important person when we look back the Modern Japanese design and art history. In Japan, the art and design systems are managed by the Bauhaus educational system until now, and it has become a kind of cultural legacy in Modern Japan; The university of Tama and The university of Tsukuba are the representative educational systems which are based on the Bauhaus legacy. However, Yamawaki Iwao had been concealed as a photographer in Japanese design and photography history until the retrospective discuss named by 'Bauhaus syashin(Bauhaus Photographies)' at the photography magazine, Deja-vu in 1995 and the retrospective exhibition titled as 'Bauhaus syashin(bauahustofografie)' in 1997. This study rethinks of Yamawaki Iwao's historical position while looking at the term as 'Bauhaus Syashin(Bauhaus Photographies)' used in Japan. It is very important to bear in mind Moholy-Nagy's wide variety of approaches to photography at the Bauhaus, but it is impossible to name it 'Bauhaus style'. 'Bauhaus style' is the international style in architecture, but that was never a Bauhaus style in photography. Eugene J. Prakapas indicated that the vague term of 'Bauhaus Photographies' in his article in 1985 as well. This study considers the historical background for the mistake of the term of 'Bauhaus Syashin(Bauhaus Photographies)' in Modern Japanese history, while looking at Yamawaki Iwao's photomontage faintly entering on the historical stage again to discuss the reception of the photomontage from him. In particular, Some of Yamawaki Iwao's photomontage presented as the wall photography in Japan during the Second World War, that was related to the propaganda of Japanese government. It had not been known well in the modern Japanese art and design history because it was related to a declaration of the Second World War by Japan. However, the historical position of his photomontage is very important for Japanese history when we rethink of the reception of the Bauhaus and Moholy-Nagys' photographic theory to build up the Japanese modern history. In the result, this study wants to discuss that the mistake of the term of 'Bauhaus syashin(Bauhaus Photographies)' in Japan is related to the interpretation for the the historical position for Yamawaki Iwao's photomontage in the reception of Bauhaus and Moholy-Nagy's photography in Japan.
Among many open libraries under the rule of the Japanese imperialism, only the railroad library as the character of special library under the control of the Japanese Government General is remarkable for having opened its facilities to outsiders as well as the interior users. This study tries a) To look into what were the colonial background, aim and motive of the establishment of the railroad library under the Japanese rule, b) To analyze its activities and the change of its organization, c) And to find out its vestiges an the effects which it has on our country's library circles. The following are the result: A. The railroad library under the rule of the Japanese imperialism functioned as a public library by the outside book's circulation rather than the interior using. B. The outsiders were qualified to use it only when they got the joint guarantee for the city resident, which means that the o n.0, pportunity of the circulation was not free for the Koreans rather than the Japanese. C. From the aspect of collections, technical books such as natural science, and reference ones tended to be collected, and their whole composition was focused on the materials for the Japan-Korea identification scheme and development of the national spirit as the Japanese empire's subjects. D. In the respect of its organization, all the clerical employees, as well as the chief librarian were composed of the Japanese. Although the Koreans were in principle prohibited from working there, a few of them were employed as guard or servant as the China-Japan War was close to the end. E. The area of the outside book's, circulation service was expanded throughout the whole region along the railroad connecting Pusan with Manchuria. Such a service activity which contained several meanings, was tried by means of culture's books, circuit's books, train's books, hotel's books, mind's development books and reader's reading books etc. F. Such matters as the limitation on book circulating and the quantity of circulation book, the paid circulation and the partial restriction on free circulation mean the wartime system under the rule of the Japanese imperialism and also a n.0, ppeared as a factor of hampering the Koreans from getting accustomed to using library, which has affected them until now. G. The noticeable thing in the service activity is shown in attempting the diversified and positive way of service like free circulation in order to solidify the attitude of the Koreans toward war by organizing mind's development books as well as culture's books with the China-Japan War. H. On the other hand, it can not be passed over that the diversified service activity of the railroad library played a role of bridge in turning of today's library circles of ours to the modernization.
The purpose of this study is to look into dressing practices at the Woinarodo region in terms of ordinary and ritual clothes. Men wore Bqji(trousers) and Jeokori(jackets) as their plain clothes and sometimes Jangsam mid Durumaki(topcoat). During the period of Japanese colony, men wore Western-style clothes. For women it was basic to wear Chima(skirts) and Jeokori. And they preferred Momppe rather when in Japanese rule. In arrangements for their head, men put on gut, and had their hair cut during Japanese nile. Women laid a bundle of their braided hairs on the head or braided their hair, while married women did their hair up in a chignon during the ruling period People of the region put on straw and leather shoes, and then rubber ones since the late 1930s. Hand weaving was a major means of living for women at the region. Ramie, hemp and cotton were mainly weaved by hand. Starching was applied mainly to ramie and cotton. Glues for starching were made of raw rices, cooked rices, wheat flour or gloiopeltis tenax. For ritual clothes, especially in wedding, bridegrooms arranged themselves with Samokwandae and then Put on Baji, Jeokori, Durumaki and Danryung. But they Put on Western-style dresses as the liners of Danryung, and wear Nambawi Rather than the Samo after korean independence from Japanese rule. Bridges wore Chima, Jeokori and Wonsam and Chokdoori and covered their face with Hansam Wonsam did not be worn any longer after Korean independence from the rule. Shrouds for funeral ceremony were manufactured with silks, cotton and hemp, when the chief mourner wore hempen hoods and funeral robes, while women, Chima, made of hemp. and any type of Jeokori.
This paper investigates how focus contributes to the phonological and phonetic realization of Japanese intonation. Pierrehumbert & Beckman (1988) pointed out that textual prominence results in the H-tone peak raising on the focused item and IP (Intonational Phrase) initiation before the focused item. Similarly Kori (1989) suggested that the F0 peaks on the words after the focused item tend to be suppressed. Although they give a general description of the characteristics of focus phenomena in Japanese intonation, they fail to explain the F0 peak interaction between H phrasal tone and lexically specified pitch accent in more-than-3-mora words whose accent locations varies from early to late. In this paper, we perform the experiment to investigate the following three points. First, we would like to look at the systematic intonational differences between focused and neutral APs; specifically, focused APs, either accented or unaccented, are compared with the neutral counterparts in terms of F0 pattern. Second, we investigate F0 patterns of a focused AP with more than 3 morae, as the accent of the word varies from early to late. Since an AP with a late accent has a H- on the second mora as well as H*+L on its accent mora, it is expected that these peaks will show systematic F0 pattern when it is focused. Our third concern is F0 patterns of a post focus AP with more than 3 morae, that is, whether a post-focus word is dephrased or just downstepped as the word accent location varies from early to late. This paper is significant in that it tries to clarify the F0 peak interaction between H-and lexical pitch accent H*+L in a variety of focus contexts in Japanese intonation.
This is paper aims to figure out the way movies and engineering have communicated and the right direction for better communication between them. Engineering no longer should be treated as playing a key role when it comes to film making. Engineering is essential in making films look real. It means that movies gain credibility from utilizing engineering, which all other types of arts also seek after. Films can be resonated better through mutual communication with engineering. The paper takes a close look at emotional aspects to figure out what the new direction of communication between movies and engineering is. People's lives shown in films and the material world that engineering represents are mingled to attain the emotional oneness between the two. This can be easily observed in Japanese movies where robots and humans have a close relationship or recent films whose theme is emotional exchange among humans and robots. This kind of contact leads us to explore newly found humans' position that was brought about in the wake of development in engineering and existential conditions that humans need to have accordingly. Artificial intelligence and neurology sectors that the engineering field is today earnestly working on are in line with it. Therefore, this article seeks to find out the meaning and value of communication between movies and engineering when establishing the fresh mankind model based on emotions and pursuit of diversity.
This dissertation intended to investigate the black color as a fashion color of the late 20th century and the aesthetic consciousness of black fashion. Black usually expressed a negative meaning, and was regarded as a color for a mourning and a sacred dress in western culture. There found several periods of black trend specially after 14th century. Black was considered as a traditional color of men's fashion since Dandyism. By the effect of art d co fashion, the perception toward black changed to a new beauty in 20th century. There continuously found a lot of aspects of black fashion in the late 20th century. In the high fashion, popularity of black, could be seen at five different look and style : The era of line alphabet, pantaloons suit style, folklore style, mannish look and unconstructive design by Japanese, and in street fashion, it showed at four different style and fashion: Beat style, mods and rockers style, punk fashion and fetish fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of black fashion at the late 20th century mentioned above should be summarized as follows. : Minimalism, dandyism, nihilism, asceticism, eroticism. In 1990s, the black appeared under the retro mood, and it should be regarded specially as one fashion trend of inclination of simplicity. Black should be called the representative color of 20th century fashion with the reason of containing the most of aesthetic consciousness in modern fashion.
This research starts based on the purpose to investigate the evolution and nature of 48 divinity depends on Gu-Cheon-EungWon-Nweh-Seong-Bo-Hwa-Cheon-Jon(九天應元雷聲普化天尊, Highest ruling Entity and Majesty of Heaven by lightning and thunder raising and ruling all the universe which response to the Supreme) as well as to look at the iconography of that. Ogchugyeong(玉樞經) still exercise enormous influence on Korean folk belief neither in the late Joseon Dynasty and the Japanese colonial period nor till now. The reason for authority of Ogchugyeong(玉樞經) is because Ogchugyeong(玉樞經) was the sutras of being used in the original royal families 48 divinity depends on Gu-Cheon-Eung-Won-Nweh-Seong-Bo-Hwa-Cheon-Jon which appears in Ogchugyeong(玉樞經) is created in Korea. 48 divinity is finally approved at 1888, after it started from 41 at the beginning of the deity general theory(神將論) through developing 47. The figure of 48 seems the result of the syncretism with 48 wishes of Buddhism. Okuchugyong was originally China Taoist scripture, but Okuchugyong entered Korea and reproduced a different look. In China Okuchugyong has two volumes and 44 stature of the deity general(神將) but in Korea Okuchugyong changed to have three volumes and 48 stature.
This study researched and compared the sedimentation environment and photosynthetic pigments at Gomso (GS) -bay, Yoja (YJ) -bay and KangJin (KJ) -bay in May, 2012. It was shown that KJ-bay consist of C (clay) and M (mud), and GS-bay consists of Zs (silty sand) and Sz (sandy silt). Averagely, IL of YJ-bay was 4.98%, KJ-bay 6.10%, and GS-bay 1.45%. As for COD concentration, there were no places that exceeded Japanese sediment contamination standard 20 mg/g-dry. As for AVS concentration, in case of KJ-bay, two places exceeded Japanese sediment contamination standard 0.2 mg/g-dry. If we look into the average C/N ratio of bays, YJ-bay showed 8.50, KJ-bay 6.60, and GS-bay 5.52, thus all of them showed the characteristic of oceanic origin. As for the plankton make-up classified by photosynthetic pigments, diatom was dominant, and both ratios of pigment and C/chlorophyll. a showed the relatively lower distribution at GS-bay than at KJ-bay and YJ-bay. It is judged that this is related to the characteristic of flow-in, and it implies that predation process and decomposition by organic matters actively occurs at YJ-bay and KJ-bay.
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