• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.32-48
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• 2007

Korean traditional flower motifs have often been used in traditional embroidery on personal products and on decorations. The flower motifs seen on embroidery with a variety of techniques show the shapes and colors changing to more and more brilliant and colorful design. Even today the flower motifs in embroideries continue to be reinterpreted in both modern ways and also in traditional ways with their fancy beauty in the design industry. This research is based on documentary and demonstrative studies conducted to find out the formative properties of these motifs through and analyzing the shapes and colors of flower motif embroideries from the Choseon Dynasty as applied in developing modern designs in harmony with their traditional beauty. A summary of the research is as follows. First, the peony blossom appears the most, with its gorgeous flower shape. It was used in a variety of ways for decorative purposes as well as in wishing for wealth and harmony on clothes or on personal products. Second, the result of analyzing the flower motifs on embroidery shows that 'realistic-complex- flower patterns' and 'stylized-complex-flower patterns' are mostly seen. Third, many of the peony blossoms, chrysanthemums, and Japanese apricots were in a radial shape and front facing with stamens, and the lotus flowers were mostly shown on the lateral side. Fourth, as a result of analyzing the colors of the flower motifs on embroideries, a tendency is shown toward the R and RP colors of v, b tone and the shades YR, Y, GY, and G colors of lt and p tone.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.580-592
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyse the foreigner's opinion about 'Hanllyu', and their buying behavior of clothes carried in Korean domestic market. The study was implemented through a normative-descriptive survey using self-administered questionnaires. The samples consisted of 75 foreigners residing in Korea. Data were analyzed by following statistical methods: frequency analysis, ${\chi}^2-test$, t-test, ANOVA, Scheffe's multiple range test. Results are as follows: There was no difference in the opinion about 'Hanllyu' between Chinese and Japanese. They regarded 'Hanllyu' as the phenomenon of the wave of Korean popular culture. Korean soap operas and movies were the main information sources on 'Hanllyu' stars for them. Significant differences were found in the behavior toward 'Hanllyu' stars according to sex and country, but there was no difference in the behavior according to their age. They mainly buy clothes in Dongdaemoon market and the main motivation of purchase were good design and price. The reason for dis-purchase was poor design. Respondents thought 'Hanllyu' fashion is gorgeous. There was significant difference in the behavior toward Korean culture according to sex.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권5호
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• pp.443-452
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• 2003

People have been getting interested in the Orientalism and it has come up in various areas due to scientific progress. I designed uniforms, which was simple and western, to show its symbolic meanings in the Orientalism. And I have been trying to generalize uniforms with originality and beauty. I have studied the process of the Orientalism and its changes and transitions, concepts and origins in history. And I applied the styles of Korean, Japanese and Chineses costume on it. I also referred to characters of uniforms, which already had images of Korea, Japan and China. Firstly, Korean styles have a contrast in colors by application of Taegeuk. And they gave lines with dark colors in black one-piece dress. This makes people who are wearing looking slimmer. White ramie top looks fresh and Korean traditional tie called Maedeup is set up for button. Secondly, Japanese styles were mainly Kimono style, one piece. They changed into two pieces designed to be active. So, it has emphasized the image of Kimono with Obi at the waist. Thirdly, Chinese styles basically are Chipao style, which has a Chinese collar and a long skirt, which has opening. But they gradually changed into short skirts and more open in the chest. For one of them, they gave lines in the side of chest, sleeves and skirt to be more natural. The costumes have kept their positions as a part of mass society that grows and changes with speed. And oriental uniforms are not just uniforms any longer only for work. It is quite symbolic like a 'second face' as it represents images for their countries and enterprises.

• 복식
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• 제60권10호
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• pp.100-117
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• 2010

This thesis has three main purposes: first, will show kinds, patterns, types, expression techniques of modern korean women's trimmings by every ten years. Second, it is to trace the effect of each decade on women's Hanbok trimming designs. Third, it will point out factors. that caused the change of modern Korean women's Hanbok trimming design patterns. Henceforth, there comes the result of the research and analysis. Trimming design patterns of modern women's Hanbok can be divided into three categories temporally: The first period of from 1910s to the first half of 1950s saw that design patterns did not changed much from traditional ones. It is because there were many catastrophes such as the invasion of Japanese Empire and Korean War. The compound design had expressed people's wish to earn many sons and babies at the end of Joseon Dynasty. But it turned to wishing luck for individuals affected by individualism and liberalism imported from the west. Realistic designs are the most frequently used and the least lines made up patterns. The second period of from the latter half of 1950s to 1970s saw that women wore their Jeogories and Chimas as suits. Screen printing technique enabled for various design patterns to come out. And the development of textile industry introduced various expression techniques such as making lace, meshing, flocking, burn-out etc cetera. The third period of 1980s saw that Hanbok became a kind of luxurious clothe as people's living standard rose. Hanbok again came into the spotlight, Hanbok designers came forward and their individualities are respected. The characteristic expression technique of grey-dying and geometric design patterns are more frequently used for the simple and modern beauty.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.779-785
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• 2023

비 언어극인 무용에서 무대의상은 시각적 표현에서 중요성을 갖고 있다. 특히 창작무용에서 무대의상은 기존의 기본적인 역할인 장식성이나 신분을 나타내는 시대성 그리고 동작을 위한 기능성 이외에 좀 더 작품에 밀접하게 관련된 확장적 역할을 하고 있다. 우리는 본 연구를 통하여 창작 발레 <'그' 소녀>의 작품에 나타난 무대의상의 확장성을 분석하는 것이 목적이며, 이를 통해 무대의상 디자인에 기초 자료를 제공하고 새로운 방향성을 제안하는 여 연구의 의의를 부여하고자 한다. 창작 발레극 <'그' 소녀>는 피해자들이 겪었을 공포와 공감을 통해 전달하고자 하는 위로를 주제로 2개의 막으로 구성되었으며, 2막의 해방과 '한(恨)'의 춤에서 의상의 확장된 역할이 요구되었다. 의상 디자인은 위안부를 형상화한 '소녀상'에서 영감을 받았으나, 발레 동작의 기능성과 의상에 장치된 끈과 천의 운용의 용이성 등의 전제조건을 바탕으로 3개의 초안 디자인과 재질의 실험을 거쳐 완성되었다. 결론적으로 해방의 춤에서 사용된 끈과 '한(恨)'을 표현한 천을 효과적으로 사용하여 무대의상의 시·공간의 확장성, 조형의 확장성, 상징적 표현의 확장성이 나타남을 알 수 있었다.

• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.295-306
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• 1996

A large quantity of exhumed clothing found for recent 20 years has becom-e the material for making a concrete clarification of the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty. Exhumed clothing means the clothing found in the coffin when the grave of the ancestor buried several hundred several hundred years ago is removed to another pla-ce and it is almost comprised of ordinary clothes of the grave-owner not mourning clothes as well as clothing and ornaments in the period between the 15th cen-tury and th 19th century. This research is intended to inquire into the kind of chimas in the 16th century before the Imjin Japancese Invasion of Korea during 1592-1598. The after effect of the Imjin Japanese In-vasion was generally reflected in clothing them and the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty began to overshadew its di-chotomy with the Imjin Japanese I vasion of Korea as the point. Accordingly this research is concerned with the study of the chima system of the early Chosun dynasty which shows that there is a common point of the identical form though clothing was exhumed in different graves. Therefore it was possible to grasp women's clothing that was fashionable at that time The object for research is the women in the upper class of the 16th century whose representative characteristics are depicted as follows: 1. Women in the upper class wore the splendid clothing similar to the ordinary clothing of court ladies. 2. The division of ordinary chima and ceremonial chima appeared in the concrete. 3. Ceremonial chima had its extra width and length and exhibited its exaggerated silhouette. in particular it had a various forms of over-pleats made at its center front which play a role in supplementing discomfort in walking. This associate bustle and crinolin styles through which the modern design of clothing can be glimpsed. 4. The opposite phenomenon was shown that has been perceived up to now such as folding at the right plain seam the treatment of the edge-and the like. 5. The elaboration of manual needlework shows the culmination of women's workmanship.

• 복식
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.129-138
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• 2005

There has been a lot of debate between scholars around the folding screen painting, A Beauty under the Tree[조모입여병풍], a collection of Shosoin, Japan. Even though it is preserved in Japan, its distinguished Chinese feature made many scholars to think it might be made in China and be transmitted to Japan. However, the inspection of the material during $1973{\sim}1975$ has revealed an important fact, that is, the feather used in this screen painting belonged to Japanese bird feather. Moreover, a great amount of documents written in Tenbyo(천평승보, 8th century) period, which was thought to be used as the ground material of this painting. Therefore we can get many evidences saying that this painting was made in japan. In a basic sense, I stand on this side just because it has more evidences. However, we must be careful to make a final conclusion. Especially on the precious things like this painting screen, we must take whole considerations as possible as we can. First of all, we must consider whether Japan could have ability to make this. Second, there could be other possibility that Japanese repair the original one with their feathers or papers. In order to prove this, study on other pieces including painting screens should be done. I just suggest an objective international discussion. Lastly, I can find the common feature between the pieces of Shosoin and the ones of United Shilla, which could be influenced by same impact, the Silk road trade in a broad sense.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.481-501
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• 2024

This study aims to analyze the traditional embroidery in Korea, China and Japan based on Pierre Bourdieu's cultural theory, habitus and field. We conducted literature and case studies examining the late Joseon Dynasty, Qing Dynasty, and Edo Period, respectively. Based on previous studies, we reviewed three fields: social systems, goods and economy, and environmental and regional. We also explored art, culture, and national tastes as habitus. We then examined each country's embroidery practices through these lenses, and the practice of habitus is as follows. We determined that traditional Korean court embroidery in the late Joseon Dynasty was characterized as controlled elegance, while private embroidery reflected earnest simplicity. During the Qing Dynasty, traditional Chinese court embroidery depicted sumptuous power, while private embroidery portrayed harmonious splendor. Finally, traditional Japanese embroidery in the Edo period reflected symbolic natural beauty and exaggerated comic beauty. As a result, Korea, China, and Japan have had a relatively close geographical location and a similar climate environment zone, and since ancient times, many cultures have been exchanged with each other. However, it seems that the characteristics of traditional embroidery have developed slightly differently due to the practice of habitus, which was caused by of the conspiracy of field and habitus of the three countries. The significance of this study is expected to explain the relationship between the birth and extinction of costumes and embroidery by establishing a systematic and objective framework for aesthetics research.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.82-96
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present the basic approach of producing the luxury fashion brands containing of the Korean traditional traits on the basis of traditional transformation with the modern concept, taking the 'Vivienne Tam' 2000's collections. This study has focused on its transformation of the traditional one of China, and made this as the subject of investigation. It's design characteristic could be defined as "modern interpretations of China chic", and it would be divided into two groups. The ingenious mixture of Chinese tradition into the modern chic could be concluded like these. The external characteristics is categorized in the three ways (1) the aesthetic application of the Chinese traditional patterns(dragon, water waves, peony, Japanese apricot flower, bamboo, bats, Chinese characters etc.), (2)the modern application of Chinese traditional costume details(front opening of Chipao, mandarin collar and knot buttons) and (3)the modernization of Chinese traditional technique(knotting, embroidery, beading and paper cutting). To deal with the internal characteristics, (1)the aesthetic mixture of East and West, (2)the formative expressions of the traditional view on the universe and religion are remarkable. The Chinese embodiment and the view of the universe and religion was integrated into the patterns of dragon, water waves, clouds, fire, woods, and metals. In order to afford the creative designer capable of encompassing the East and West, the teaching about the Korean tradition along with the technical and practical aspect of fashion is most important, while encouraging the professional designer to make a sophisticated ones which are attributed to the Korean tradition, and thereby come to be attractive to the world customer. The study about the Korean costumes, traditional colors, the symbolic meaning of the traditional patterns, cuttings, compositions, extending to the various kinds of myths, songs, paintings and crafts are essential for the Korean designer brand to be the global luxury brands.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.331-336
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• 2003

This study is to research the influence of Caesalpinia sappan which was imported through the exchanges between the Chosun dynasty and Japanese envoys during the early Chosun dynasty. Korea interchanged politically and culturally with Japan since ancient times. Particularly, the good-neighbor foreign policy toward Japan grew into trade relations. The diplomatic mission, under the name of Tongshinsa, was dispatched 12 times in total. Plenty of goods were exchanged through the visiting of Japanese envoys as well as through the activities of Korean envoys. In other words, the Korean-Japanese relations were at first focused on the political and diplomatic etiquette and gradually evolved into economic exchanges. Trading goods were various, including food, clothing, etc. Caesalpinia sappan, a red dye, was the most imported goods from Japan, but it was sold at a very high price, which caused luxurious trends in clothing. However, these sumptuous moods of the upper classes were decreased in the 16th century. Some of the reasons are : the difficulties of Japan's trade with the Caesalpinia sappan producing countries in South-east Asia, the transition of the high classes' preference from red clothing into Chinese BaecSa and SaraNeungDan, and the comparative decrease in the demand of Caesalpinia sappan by the changed understanding of Honghwa. Therefore, the early Chosun dynasty's clothing trends were due to the relationships between the Chosun dynasty and Japan.