• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.970-980
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• 2011

As a type of intimate architecture, fashion has always mediated the dialogue between clothes and the body, or fashion and figure. This study seeks to inquire the current aesthetic consciousness of the body and dress in Japanese avant-garde fashion and intends to research the features and meanings in the pastiche of Western sartorial convention in Japanese avant-garde fashion in order to examine the changing aesthetic attitude in postmodern fashion. The study investigates subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the twenty-first century, when pastiche strategies frequently appeared in Japanese avant-garde fashion, through the methodology of literature research and case analysis. The results of the study are as follows: by developing the strategy of pastiche, Japanese avant-garde fashion exposes the defectiveness of the Western idea of the idealized and standardized body for mass productions, thus freeing design from its traditional confinement to the human body. Drawing on the re-conceptualization of the sartorial convention of Western tradition, Japanese avant-garde fashion designers tend to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional Western values built on the balance and symmetry of the body. Through the combination of the past and the present as well as the inner-wear as outerwear strategy, the historical pastiche challenges convention and symbolism, which results in the discord between signifiant and signifi$\acute{e}$ of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.149-163
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to research the Korean and Japanese costume systems and to compare both of them on the process of adopting the western-originated costumes. The consequences of this study are as follows. Chosen and Japan started simplifying the traditional clothings, Introducing the western clothings and executed the ordinance prohibitory topknots through reforming costume systems since Port Opening Treaties in 19th centra. Japan performed the reformation of costume system effectively through the grand campaign of social reforming enlightment by Meiji Government. Meanwhile in Korea, there were a continual repetition of adoption and rejection in the reformation of costume systems because of strong cultural self-esteem and competition of foreign Empires. However, western-originated cultural perspectives brought the strong self-devaluated view on their own cultures to both countries. And that's the first cause of substitution of western clothings for ordinary ones in both nations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.58-76
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• 2010

In this study, the shapes of po worn by military officers who served During the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592-1598) were investigated. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. Various types of po that military officers usually wore during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea includes jikryeong, dapho, dopo, cheolik, aekjureum, jangeui, jungchimak and bangryeongpo. Out of these types, cheolik and jungchimak were most often used by the officers. Po that were usually worn by military officers during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea as above mentioned is characterized as no difference in length between the front and back of the costume, kalgit and a pair of coat strings which are directly attached to po. The sleeves of the costume are bean chaff-shaped in some cases and just narrowly shaped in other cases. Similarly, the outer seop of po was either double-layered or single-layered. For jikryeong and dapho, mu is usually type of outside wrinkle. For dopo, its rear kit has the inner hem whose right and left edges are usually distant, respectively by 6~16cm, from the back center of the costume. Cheolik and aekjureum usually have either fine or broad pleats. For jangeui and jungchimak, mu is usually trapezoid in shape. Among various types of po which were usually worn by military officers during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea, most representative are jikryeong from the tombs of Bae Cheon jo, dapho from Shin Yeo Gwan, dopo from general Bak and Bae Cheon Jo, cheolik from Nam Yoo and Cho Gyeong, aekjureum from Shin Yeo Gwan, jangeui from Kim Ham, jungchimak from Bae Cheon jo and bangryeongpo from Cho Gyeong.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.65-73
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• 2002

This research is to reveal an aspect of costume culture interchange in the relationship of the early Chosun Dynasty, by considering the imported goods from Japan, of the trading goods derived by the trade diplomacy between the two countries in the early Korea-Japan relationship in the medieval era. The research results are as follows. A good-neighbor Policy in the early Chosun Dynasty was established by a link of a barbarian ban policy to blockade the frequent intrusion by Japanese barbarians. The exchange was the form of presenting a return present in return for a tribute to the Chosun Dynasty from the Japanese envoy, which has a polycentric characteristic. Pusanpo, Naipo, and Yumpo were designated as the open ports, which played a pivotal role in the Korea-Japan exchange. In trading goods between Korean and Japan. the imported goods from Japan to Korea were a wide variety of items primarily such as dyes, mordant, medicines, steel, spicers, etc. In particular, Somok used as a red mordant, which were intermediate goods to Southeast Asia, was the most heavily-traded items of imported goods from Japan. It had been consumed primarily as a raw material making the costume suit of the royal family and the aristocracy. The increased import of Somok was derived from a thought of preferred red color by our people. As its inflow was increased. the costumes tended to be luxurious In early Chosun Dynasty and resulted in social issues. This active trading from the early Chosun Dynasty caused from the communication of the Japanese envoy. In addition the study of the trading provided an opportunity that can glance at an aspect of the costume culture, though It was fractionary.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1415-1428
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• 2010

Modernity in costumes is analyzed as the preference of change and novelty, the formation of the masses, and the aspect of function, which is transplanted by western modernization. However, it is seem that the factor of modernity in Japanese traditional costume history. This study examines the Proto-modernity in Japanese traditional costume history. First, this study examines the term 'Imamekashiki' which means the present time. Because of the recognition of every present time arises from the recognition and the preference of change and novelty. In the pre-modem Era, this study examines the masses formed by the publication and the play, Kabuki. This study provides an alternative answer to understanding what is to 'wear clothes' for Japanese people.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.71-87
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• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.17-27
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• 2007

The goal of the study was to research how the japanese fashion effects on the japanese fashion's current. This study was processed by the 'wabi', 'sabi', 'tsu', and 'iki' which were the foundation and core of the japanese traditional culture. This study also investigated the japanese style to help the recognizing of traditional design which needed for internationalization and informational periods. The review of related literature is presented under the following headings : (a) japanese culture, (b) japanese beauty, (c) japanese style, (d) japanese fashion designer. Conclusively, Japan complete unique design of world by on the basis of own tradition and beauty of japan which were revealed on the their common daily life. So To help there cognizing of traditional design which needed for internationalization and informational periods, fashion designer of the world must research the meaning of the trend and motive power of the world fashion, base on the cultural back ground of their country. And for this, the grounding educational curriculums for fashion designer include the process which can promote awareness of their country's culture, tradition, and beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.161-182
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• 2000

The results of this study were as follows: The quit has been used for warmth supporting materials protection religious uses decoration and giving stability of shapes. Quilt is developed from monk's robe of lags and the word 'nubi' is originated form 'nabeui' in both Korean and Japan. Korean quilt was used mainly for warmth: Japanese one was used for warmth and supporting materials. The techniques used for traditional Korean quit were parallel vertical hand stitches. On the other hand Japanese traditional quilt uses various motifs of sashiko which is similar to embroidery and named by region. Korean quilt can be divided into three types by the stitch intervals: Fin quit(Jan unbi) Medium quilt(Jung nubi) and Wide quilt(Demun nubi). Japanese quilt has been developed in east-north region and can be grouped into sashiko kogin and hishizashi by motifs of quit. Korean quilt costumes are stuffed with cotton between the outer fabrics and linings and stitched vertically on the fabrics Main fabrics used were silk and cotton. Japanese quilt costume uses cotton yarns for stitching on flax or cotton fabrics used were silk and cotton. fabrics and main uses of the quilot costumes were sorking clothes of working classes. Both Korean and Japanese quilt costumes contain of family's health happiness and longevity. In summary Korean quilts use two layers of fabrics and stuff them with cotton and stitch parallel vertical i\lines to provide warmth Japanese quilt are sashiko which is stitches of strand in various shapes using cotton yarns. differ by region and are made for warmth and supporting materials.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.43-52
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristics of traditional blue color between Korean and Japanese traditional costumes. Korea and Japan as the neighboring country of geographically and historically, but showed obvious difference in traditional color. In this study we investigated the blue color characteristics that appear on Korean and Japanese traditional costumes. We researched the characteristics of blue color on color names and color tones through the old Korean and Japanese literatures, costume remains and restoration dyeing fabrics. This study researched the Chosun Period in Korea and Edo Period in Japan. The results of this study Were as following; Many differentiation colors appeared in Chosun and Edo period than former ages. These differentiation colors were made giving differences gradually in basic color, hue, value and chroma. The blue color names appeared 40 names in Chosun Period and 57 names in Edo Period. In these blue color names of Chosun and Edo Period, the common color name was not more 'indigo'. The most highly appearanced blue color hues of costume remains in Chosun and restoration dyeing fabrics in Edo Period were blue and purplish blue. The most highly appearanced blue color tones were dull and moderate. By result of preceding descriptions, the characteristics of national color were not come from difference of dye and dyeing method, could know that come from difference of society and cultural environment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.69-73
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• 1999

Korean and Japanese, both people have a lot of similarity and complexity in terms of physical constitution and culture. This study might be the first implementation that tries to figure out constitutional differences of both people in scientific way. In this study, subjects were from each country, had been exposed $5^{\circ}C$ environment wearing each country's traditional costume- so called Hanbok and Kimono- and all through this experiment we'd compared physiological responses and analyzed differences of cold response go with their own clothing culture. We've obtained following results: Korean had kept maintaining low mean skin temperature basically in cold circumstance, compared with Japanese, have stronger cold tolerance. However, there's no significant difference between Korean and Japanese. Owing to huge influence of wearing other country's traditional costume itself even makes differences of rectal temperature in a cold environment. In addition, in a period of time that wearing other country's traditional costume, thermal sensation would be different according to exposed surrounding temperature.