• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.102-111
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• 2010

The pegging board planning for jacquard weaves was carried out to express a big enough design in 60 inch width. 20 Kinds of fabrics were fabricated by a jacquard loom with a warp density of 168 yarns/inch, a weft density of 100T, and a weight of 180-220g/$m^2$ or 250-300g/$m^2$. The result of sanitary test about Escherichia coli, Staphilococcus aureus, Klebsiella pneumoniae and Salmonella typhimurium showed a sterilizing power of over 90% after cultivating for 30, 60, 120 minutes. And also its property was sustained after laundrying 20 times. The flame retardant properties showed a good result and complied with the flame retardant criteria of KOFEI 1001. Abrasion, laundry and light fastnesses of flame retardant fabrics showed 4-5 grades. The fabrics manufactured from 30's fiber appeared a little fluff and pill on the fabric. Therefore, they need a shearing process after finishing all processes to decrease the fluff or pill on the fabric. The flame retardant fabric manufactured from 30's and 40's fiber showed increased strength and elongation after soaping and dyeing finishing because the fabrics were shrunk.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.2 s.8
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• pp.50-64
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• 2006

This study was performed the analysis on the final usage and the pattern type of Jacquard fabrics through the surveyed data from the domestic and foreign textile fashion magazines[Book Moda, Fashion biz, Vogue] during recent 5 years(2000-2004). The result of this study can be summarized as follows. 1 Jacquard fabric mostly applies to apparel followed by accessory, interior decoration and bedding. As classified by uses, in apparel, it applies to One-pieces most followed by jackets and coats. In interior decoration, Slipcover uses Jacquard fabric most and then cushions, curtains and carpets. In accessory, neck ties use it most and then hand bags, hats and mufflers. In bedding, Jacquard fabric evenly applies to sheets, pillows, blankets and coverlet. 2. As classified by uses above, flowered patterns apply to each use most followed by geometric patterns, abstract patterns, ethnic patterns, art patterns and animal patterns. In addition, flowered patterns apply to apparel most and then interior decoration, accessory and bedding. Geometric patterns apply to apparel, accessory, interior decoration and bedding orderly. It is researched that abstract patterns and ethnic patterns also apply to apparel partially.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.104-111
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• 2019

This study was developed using the DTP (digital textile printing) jacquard fabrics with a three-dimensional pattern for bag and evaluated the preference and emotional structure. The following conclusions were obtained. Three-dimensional patterns of 12 species using the illustrator program, including six kinds of designs based on the text and six kinds of character types based on the geometry of the basic design was developed. As a result of evaluating the preference of the three-dimensional pattern jacquard fabric, the most preferred fabric was a three-dimensional patterned jacquard fabric with a motif of the Korean consonant "ㅅ". The results of analyzing the emotional dimension of the three-dimensional pattern jacquard fabric, eight factors including simple image, feminine image, exotic image, graphic image, sporty image, masculine image, dynamic image and stereoscopic image were derived. Between emotional factors and preferences correlation analysis showed the stronger the simple image, the feminine image, and the sporty image, the more preferable. It suggested the possibility of a morphological and new fabric for bag, textile design motifs by using Hangul consonants attempt to limit the flatness of the existing geometric form patterns that can be applied to three-dimensional bag whether swirly patterns overcome.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.90-91
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• 2011

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.749-756
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• 2009

Keeping abreast with the latest consumer's trends, industries are focusing on sensibility aspects of products to meet consumer's needs. The car(?) seat cover fabrics are more closely related to human senses than anything else. This study attempted to investigate which seat cover fabric can give good feeling to consumers and to analyze their characteristics. Twelve kinds of jacquard fabric used for seat cover were selected. The Kawabata Evaluation System was used to measure the mechanical properties of 12 jacquard fabrics, and tactile sensibility(TS), and preference(P) determined by subjective evaluation of 160 participants were also utilized. The stepwise regression analysis was made to select the most significant mechanical properties, and some models for predicting tactile sensibility and preference was developed. The results are briefly summarized as follows: the most important parameter to choose seat cover fabric is a "hygienic property" and the other parameters are 'materials with color fastness', 'compressive property', 'color', 'antibacterial property', 'easy-care property'. The LogSMD, LogB, LC, EM were selected as significant mechanical properties affecting tactile sensibility. Also, the LC, LogB, LogSMD, LogWC, LogMMD were selected as significant mechanical properties affecting preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.8
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• pp.828-836
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• 2012

This study provided the data for the planning of knit apparel by analyzing structural effects of intarsia and jacquard knit on mechanical properties, subjective hand measurements, and preference. Intarsia and 7 types of color jacquard (floating jacquard, normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, and transfer jacquard) were used. The samples (with a gauge of 14) were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by a Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. Mechanical properties and hand values were measured by a KES-FB system. Subjective hand and favorable images were surveyed based on women in their 20s and 30s. The data were analyzed by a factor analysis, ANOVA and correlation analysis using SPSS 12.0. The subjective hand of intarsia and jacquard knits was categorized into 'thermofeeling', 'weight/flexibility', and 'durability'. The results of the favorable image survey for F/W outer knitwear showed that tubular jacquard was most favorable; however, the transfer jacquard was least favorable. Among the three factors that explain the subjective hand, thermofeeling had a strong influence on the favorable image of consumers. Bird's eye jacquard and tubular jacquard turned out to be most suitable for suits, intarsia and floating jacquard were suitable for cardigans and sweaters, ladder's back jacquard was suitable for hats or mufflers, and transfer jacquard was suitable for home fashion rather than garments.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.93-103
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• 2010

The results of comparison and analysis of dynamical features according to Jacquard structure are as follows. Regarding elongation(E) value in tensile property, the value in the direction of course was found to be larger in all Jacquard structure, except floating Jacquard, than the direction of wale. It could be found that, as to bending strength(B) in Bending Property, the value of bending strength in the direction of course smaller in all the textile(structure) except floating than the direction of wale, so that the ability of curve formation is excellent. And in case of floating Jacquard, it showed the smallest value in the direction of course and wale, so that it was interpreted as Jacquard having a soft feel. Blister Jacquard showed the highest value in both directions of course and wale, so that it was evaluated as Jacquard having the hardest touch. With regard to shearing character(G) and shearing hysteresis(2HG) in Shearing Property, Jacquard indicated the lowest value, so it was evaluated as the textile(structure) having high drape the transformation of whose fabric is easy. In addition, normal Jacquard, transfer Jacquard, blister Jacquard showed a high value, so that it could be known they are Jacquards having stiff touch. The study implies that normal Jacquard, bird's eye Jacquard, etc., which well stretch in the direction of a course like tubular Jacquard course, is better to make the margin a little shorter than the basic margin, and Jacquard that well stretches in the direction of wale like ladder's back Jacquard and floating Jacquard is better to make the margin longer and the length shorter than the basic margin.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.404-414
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• 2014

This study investigates the dyeability and fastness of jacquard fabric for blind using low-melting flame retardant polyester. Two types of jacquard fabric were prepared with a low-melting flame retardant polyester and regular polyester. The low-melting flame retardant polyester has a sheath and a core. The core consists of flame retardant polyester and the sheath consists of low-melting polyester. Disperse red 50 (DR 50), disperse blue 56 (DB 56), disperse yellow (DY 54) of E-type dyes and disperse 92 (DR 92), disperse blue 60 (DB 60), disperse yellow (DY 79) of S-type dyes were used and dyed on jacquard fabrics dependent of dyeing temperature and time. The fastness, dye exhaustion, color strength (K/S value), and colorimetric properties of jacquard fabrics were evaluated. The dyeability of S-type dyes were higher than E-type dyes. The experiments indicated optimum dyeability that the dyeing temperature was $110^{\circ}C$ for E-type dyes and $120^{\circ}C$ for S-type dyes for 40 minutes. The fastness to washing and light were excellent at a 4-5 grade.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.715-724
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• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.