• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.7
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• pp.60-74
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• 2015

It is considered that jacket was widespread in the 19th century due to its simple and convenient production technique. This study aims to explore the western women's jacket in the late 19th century, which is the basis of modern women's outwear, and we focused on the patterns and construction, the technical aspect of the jacket. We researched pattern books and preserved costume materials, and the study methods are as follows: First, we analyzed the pattern of the jackets from the pattern books and preserved costumes. Second, we analyzed the construction of the jackets from the preserved costumes and compared it to previous researches. The study results are as follows: 19th century jacket consisted of a bodice, a back bodice, a side panel, two-piece sleeve and a collar. The front bodice had cuttings and a dart to make the jacket fit the shape of the body and the two-pieced leg of mutton sleeve, puffed at the shoulder. Various styles of collar and neckline existed. The pattern suggested diverse ways of designing a jacket, such as cutting with partition, dart and pattern expansion that focused on three-dimensional effect at that time.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.10
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• pp.177-189
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop a suitable jacket pattern for elderly women. The subjects were two women of the ages of 65-70, who had different bust size. To reflect the ready made pattern drafting systems, 4 industrial patterns were selected. After analyzing the problems of these patterns, a new jacket pattern was proposed. The results were as follows : 1) The amount of appropriate ease in fitted jacket for elderly women was about 10cm at the bust circumference, 10∼12cm at the hip circumference and the height of sleeve cap was AH/3+0.5cm. 2) Considering an enlargement of waist and abdomen, difference between front and back size was 2cm on the bust line, 6-8cm on the waist and hip line. 3) Because of the shape of concavity of back-waist, center back line in the pattern was folded by 0.5cm from center back waist toward side seam for manipulation. 4) The new jacket pattern was compared with the existing pattern through the wearing test by sensory evaluation. It showed that the fit and comfort of experimental pattern was superior to those of the existing pattern.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.953-970
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to design men's jacket pattern for variable body types by employing the data of wearing evaluation from experimental basic bodices selected by male subjects in the 30's. As a result of sensory evaluation, functional test and clothing pressure test by each type of experimental basic bodices, the 3rd experimental basic bodice was chosen to be a basic bodice type in this research since it showed a high degree in fitness and function, but a low in the clothing pressure test. As a comparison of one item from conventional jacket and sleeve pattern with each somatotype, the type 2(the standard somatotype) indicated a great fitness in both basic bodice type and conventional jacket pattern, whereas the type 1 and the type 3 showed higher fitness and moving function in the basic bodice type. In the making of men's jacket, many corrections were made in the front interscye breadth, back interscye breadth, front and back length, and shoulder line as adapting each body type. Thus, the ease-amount of chest circumference at scye for clothes should be established differently according to the size of chest circumference at scye.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.654-663
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to improve the classic jacket pattern for Korean young men whose chest circumference is 91~94cm, status is 170~175 cm, and drop value between chest and waist circumference is 15. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. Through the comparative investigation on the conventional classic jacket patterns of Hyung-sook Lee's, 문화's in Japan, and SMA's and the clothing experiment, the characteristics of every three patterns were found. 2. According to correct the unsuitable point in Hyung-sook Lee's pattern which was found more suitable than other two patterns and to refer to the product size of the ready-made classic jackets for men, the new suitable classic jacket pattern was achieved. 3. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort and one to one comparison was applied to evaluate the new classic jacket pattern by comparing with the Hyung-sook Lee' s jacket pattern. From the result of the sensory evaluation and one to one comparison, it was found that the new classic jacket pattern was more suitable for appearance and comfort. 4. From the result of this study, the suitable surplus of men's classic jacket at present is about 23~24cm on the chest circumference, 31~32 cm on the waist circumference, 14~15 cm on the hip circumference, 13~14 cm on the upper arm circumference, and 14 cm on the wrist circumference and the ease is about 3.5 cm on the armhole circumference. This size is not the absolute size but it helps to make the surplus in any other clothes for Korean young men.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.2 s.150
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• pp.207-220
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• 2006

The purpose of the study is to develop the basic pattern of casual jacket for men aged between 25 and 34. Compared to the tailored jackets, casual jackets are designed much more diverse form depending on the target customer, price range and moreover fashion trend. Therefore in order to reduce the cost and time of developing new style, pattern draft from the basic pattern is better approach rather than develop each style form the measurements every time. For men's casual jacket pattern draft, the basic pattern of fit and comfort was developed through following research procedures. 173 men were surveyed about their habit of buying and wearing of casual jackets. MDs and pattern designers of 10 casual wear brands for men were interviewed. As a starting point, 3 different basic patterns were selected. 2 patterns were from the 2 interviewed brands and the last one was the pattern of ESMOD. The 3 patterns were studied by means of comparing measurements and general styling. As a results it was found that the pattern of S brand is featuring I silhouette, the pattern of K brand is featuring H silhouette and the pattern of ESMOD is featuring Y silhouette. The results of wearing test showed that the pattern of S brand is the best among the three. They were to add ease around the chest line and waist line, to relocate the waist line and the break point, to increase the jacket length and upper arm width. The improved pattern was made of polyester for the wearing test. The wearing test showed developed pattern was improved significantly. To verify the use of developed basic pattern, two buttoned single jacket was made.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.35-50
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the result of a market research on men's jacket in their age of 25 to 35, who wear fitted jackets most, and to examine the comparative analysis of pattern and the wearing evaluation between classic jacket and fitted jacket. The results are as follows; Firstly, according to the results of a market research, 32.0% of the target owned fitted jackets, and 28.7% expressed their desire to buy only fitted jackets. This means their concern and preference for fitted jacket with which they could show up young, fresh and slim look are as high as those for classic jacket. Secondly, classic jacket showed the higher value than fitted jacket in such items as chest girth, waist girth, hip girth, sleeve's hem girth, jacket length, shoulder length, side seam length, and across shoulder point length. On the other hand, fitted jacket showed the higher value than classic jacket in back armhole length, front length, collar point length and sleeve's vent length. Thirdly, classic jacket was larger than fitted jacket in 1/2 chest girth(1.0cm), 1/2 waist girth(2.0cm), 1/2 hip girth(1.0cm), back width(0.5cm), front width(0.5cm) and side width(1.0cm). However, fitted jacket was higher than classic jacket in the armhole depth(0.5). Fourthly, the results of appearance evaluation revealed that there was a significant difference in 6 items. In other words, classic jacket was evaluated more appropriate than fitted jacket in such items as back width, back length, back neck depth, chest girth, waist girth and hip girth. And the fitted jacket had a higher value than the classic jacket in shoulder angle item. Fifthly, In the functional evaluation, fitted jacket was evaluated more uncomfortable than classic jacket. And this means that fitted jacket doesn't have a proper ease amount in each part and it has a high armhole depth compared to classic jacket. Therefore, for more comfortable patternmaking of fitted jackets, it would be required a pattern design which reflect men's own shoulder lines and women designers' flexibility that will satisfy both appearance and function.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.112-120
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop Andongpo apparel pattern design connected with the Apparel CAD system. It includes pattern making, grading, marking program. In this study, it will be able to make apparel pattern quickly and accurately by using Apparel CAD system. The results were as following : Computerization of the pattern making process is expected to provide higher accuracy and efficiency in apparel pattern making for narrow and expensive Andongpo. ESMOD pattern making method was selected as basic pattern. Tailored jacket patterns were developed for Andongpo. Refer to and . The jacket patterns developed is automatically depicted by inputting consumer's body size. Tailored jacket patterns for Andongpo were marked by using marking program in Apparel CAD system. The efficiency of marking appeared of 70% or more in Andongpo jacket patterns. This results is showed it has an effect on narrow and expensive Andongpo. 3tailored jacket patterns will be able to make a simulation by 3D Apparel CAD system. The results of this study is expected to provide higher consumer's satisfaction and internet brand launching. In addition, encouraging majority of the young to participate in using CAD program for Andongpo is regarded as beneficial for the reinforcement of competitiveness of traditional clothing business.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.138-155
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• 2012

Exaggerations have always been seen in the past and present. In the past, they represented wealth and high social status, but now they are being used to express one's beauty and personality. This has led to the diversity in design through widening each person's emotions. Likewise, exaggerations have been changed from the past to the present and so will they in the future. This study focuses on proposing patterns to enhance the utility and practical use of exaggerated jacket designs and its methods are based on documents and preceded studies. Pattern making is composed of drawing patterns and showing their forms by basting - which are a technique that is explained in this study's outcome - and the basic pattern is the style of Wan Suk. Suh. Jackets are made with exaggerating factors in the women's collections of 2011 F/W and are designed for various ages. With the knowledge of structuring a jacket, anyone could easily follow the instructions. In the end, he/she could elevate the ability to express, use practically and apply this idea in general fields of fashion industry.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.776-788
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• 2019

This study developed an ergonomic Korean female military winter jacket and (inner and outer) pattern in in order to increase dimension and operational suitability for military missions. First we developed the 1st development pattern and sample jackets with improved dimensions and operational suitability based on a previous investigation of fitness and motion suitability of Korean female military winter jackets (inner and outer) and motion suitability by a wearing test. The evaluation result of fitness for the 1st development pattern were over 4.0 (5.0 Likert scale) for both the inner and outer jacket, a positive result and the result of motion suitability were over 3.5 in both the inner and outer jacket except for the neck front part by collar height. However, we did not modify the collar height because decreases in warmth and military regulations. We also evaluated appearance by experts that showed good results in both the inner and outer jacket. Finally, we developed a final pattern based on evaluation results and military regulations. Existing military uniform research was conducted mainly on male soldiers. Beginning with this study, we expect to expand research on the development of military uniform patterns suitable for a female soldier body type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.6
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• pp.943-961
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• 2018

This study was to develop an ergonomic Korean male military winter jackets (inner and outer) pattern. First, we developed a prototype pattern and sample jackets based on a previous investigation for fitness and motion suitability of Korean male military winter jackets and evaluated fitness and motion suitability by a wearing test. The evaluation results were positive with an over 3.0 (5.0 Likert scale) for both the inner and outer jacket. However, a relatively low score was shown in the sleeve length and collar front height at the inner jacket and shown in hem circumference, neck circumference, elbow and front neck at the outer jacket. Next, we developed the secondary pattern and sample jacket reflecting the prototype evaluation result and executed expert evaluation. The result showed that the ease amount was appropriate (except for the collar back height) and the appearance was good. Finally, we developed a final pattern that showed good results after evaluation at a Korean military army base.