• 대한가정학회지
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• 제49권5호
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• pp.23-32
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• 2011

This study will covered socio-cultural background and characteristic of the face-concealing culture of Istanbul which has liberal and westernized clothes culture for women even if it's an city in an Islamic country. This study depended on literatures related to religion, culture and costumes of the Ottoman Empire, especially costumic data on miniature of turkey, which was famous from 16th to 19th century. Since the 17th century, the Ottoman Empire has been gradually influenced by European countries but the change of women's clothes was not considerable. In the 18th century, women's clothes were influenced by foreign fashions. A veil to cover the face was gradually disappeared and traditional Turkish headdresses were replaced by European hats. Through face-concealing culture of Istanbul, we can see some socio-cultural features like Islamic religious character, one's social position, economic situation, westernization and renovation, beauty and completion of costume, duality for the reason of regional difference.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.1-27
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• 1994

This result of the study on the costume of Osman Turkey are as following. 1. Empire of Osman Turkey(129∼1922) exerted an almost limites impact and influence on Europe and Asia during their regime 600 years. The distant ancestors of the Osman Turks were nomadic peoples, who wandered I tribal groups through the Central Asia. Therefore their costumes were based on nomadic culture. They had trade with West and East were influenced by Hellenism and Byzantium and grew, to a strong Islamic political power polygamy with which influence their clothing along with other culture. 2. Topkapi Saray was one of he principal residences of the Osman sultans and his court. Late 17 century, Topkapi Saray found many of kaftans of Osman Turks Empires of 14∼17 centuries. Otherwise we studied by the minatures of 16∼17 centuries, Since the Topkapi Saray became a museum in 1924, a program of careful restoration has made it possible to some pars of it to the public, after centuries neglection. 3. Osman Turkey Empire had important role in between West and East(silk-road). Economic, commercial, social and political factor of Turkey led to a development in the art of weaving (kema, kadife, catman, seraser, zerbeft, hatayi, kntnu, atlas)parallel to the rise and development of the Osman Turkey Empire itself, one which raised the art to a level attained nowwhere else in the world. Fabrics woven from gold and silver thread occupied a very important place in the court life of the time. This was due as much to their symbolic as to their material value, reflecting as they did the power, glory and magnificence of the Empire. 4. In order to study Eastern or Western history of costume one must study Turkey history of costume in advance. Also there is a great need of comparison to study of western, central and north eastern area history of costume.

• 복식
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• 제19권
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• pp.195-207
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• 1992

palestein had been a part of Islamic culture before Israel was established after World War II and their daily lives had been totally affected by the Korean, Consequently, the idea of clothing, types of women clothes and it's characteristics reflected in the Koran have been studied and the results are as follows: First, the idea of clothing reflected in the Koran emphasizes the equality of the sexed and treats women as men's equal partner. Second, in the Koran there is almost no reference on men's clothes, but it only recommends women to wear veil to cover their faces and bodies when they go out. The Koran argues that it is not to restrict women but to protect them. Third, due to it's geographical location, Palestinian clothes had been affected by it's neighboring areas, and the gumbaz-a kind of coat - is one of the examples of Turkish origin. In the beginning the gumbaz had been worn by upper class Palestinian women and subsquently by urban Nazareth women. They used to slip on gumbaz on their heads and shoulders. Fourth, In Palestein they wore jacket over coat or dress. The emboridered jacket from Bethlehem was mostly worn their wedding dress. Fifth, the headdress and face-veil in Palestein are the most unique ones and married women decorated headdress and face-veil with gold or silver coins which they received as wedding presents, and wrapped all their coin decorations in black cloth when husbands are dead. Bedouins decorated not only with coins but also with shells, buttons, stones and beads to articulate their chastity, social status, aestheticism, religion and magic.

• 복식
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• 제59권4호
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• pp.26-40
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• 2009

The custom of the flag sticked in a military cap involves the symbolic mark. That is, it makes the procession of an army clear and makes the convenience of activity possible. This custom was uniquely practiced at several countries. At Il dynasty($1258{\sim}1411$), Timurid dynasty($1369{\sim}1508$), Mughal dynasty($1526{\sim}1858$) was succeeded this custom by based on blood relationship for $13th{\sim}16th$ century on the diachronic viewpoint. And these countries have cultural correlation by regional paradigm, namely Islamic cultural area. Meanwhile, this custom of Ming dynasty and joseon dynasty appeared in $15th{\sim}17th$ century as official system. Expecially, one of joseon dynasty maintained for a short time than other countries because of jangpyo[章標] system which was more efficient than the sticked flag. On the synchronic viewpoint, this custom was the common and necessary status quo for the efficient expansion of territory and military management.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.263-271
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• 2012

Cultural products reflect a living culture and evolve despite being based on traditional forms only. It is known as traditional cultural expression that portray certain culture groups, materials, spiritual and creativity inspired from their living environment that characterize a society. The old Malay community had a close relationship with their surrounding and environment. Sensitivity towards the nature and surrounding environment moved them into creative people. In designing the local traditional textile, role of the motifs, design and product design play an important element in Malay cultural values. This reflects the symbols and philosophy of the arts and culture and thus becomes the identity of the Malay community, which in general practice their culture and tradition based on Islamic culture and religion. Kelantan and Terengganu are the pioneer states for most producers of Malay traditional textiles. In these states the Pelangi cloths, is one of the unique textiles use and inherited by the Malay communities. Base on history, the Malay rulers and Malay nobility used Pelangi cloth as complementing clothing and ornament in attending various ceremonies and customs in their daily life. In this paper will discuss the specific picture of Pelangi motifs, design and its usage in Malay society in Malay Peninsula through its identification aspect of representations. It shows that this textile represent certain insights of Malay customs and identity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.85-99
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fashioning phenomenon of Muslim women's clothes and its significance for Islamic culture around Malaysia and Indonesia. The study examined the phenomenon of hijab, a cultural symbol of Muslim women, emerging as a 'fashion' rather than folk or religious costume, as well as its significance. As for methodology, the investigator reviewed research reports, previous papers, and literature studies home and abroad since 2010 and conducted an interview with seven female college students from Indonesia and Malaysia and one fashion editor from Malaysia staying in South Korea. The findings suggested that the high level of women's education and entry into society along with the Pop Islamic created an opportunity for hijab among Muslim ladies. The balance between religion and fashion leads to happiness among young Muslim women. Second, the modest fashion and global fashion retrends present a fashion culture and identify the diversity of aesthetic values around the globe. Finally, SNS and hijabista activities have promoted individual means of direction based on hijab to represent the identity of Muslims on SNS, they play an important role in the acceptance of global fashion and the fashioning and globalization of Southeast Asian Muslim clothes. The findings understanding of the consumers and markets of Muslim fashion related to global industries and contribute to the multicultural and diverse aspects of research and development in the field of apparel study.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.107-122
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• 2012

This thesis takes it an aim to analyze and compare the visual images which results from attaching the voluminous changes of the waist gathering to the basic Sarrouel pants, one of the Islamic costume, and also from the three body type influenced by these changes. The method of the investigation was to select basic designs of the Sarrouel pants, then the three pieces of the experimental clothes called pattern 1(50%), pattern 2(100%), and pattern 3(150%) were made respectively. The 3 types of the adult women were selected as models in a way to represent the S(S1), M(S2), L(S3) the female body indices of the K. S. The models wearing the 3 types of experimental clothes were taken pictures from the front, side and back, which the pictures were used for the evaluations for the visual effects. For the evaluation, the questionaire from 12 to 18, associated with the body types and images respectively were completed and collected in an investigative way. The visual effects by the waist gathering and body size are composed body and image emerged the four factors. Conclusively, the volume of the waist gathering gives a benefit only in terms of the appropriateness in which the voluminous gatherings compensate for the defects of the body type while too much gathering leads to the negative effects. The visual effects from the increased gathering gives the impressions of the more activity with the snugness as it decreases the feminine effects. The evaluation indices like the stiffness or the masculine images might be more or less predominant in this case. This might be ascribed to the fact that the Sarrouel pants were originated from the men's trousers in a real sense.