• 복식
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• 제60권4호
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• pp.58-75
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of fur and leather clothes of minority races of China in Northeas and Inner Mongolia. To examine their characteristics, the clothes and ornaments were classified into four types: headwear, clothes, footwear, and accessories. First, headwear was divided into animal head-shaped, petal-shaped, round-shaped, and cone-shaped head wear. Among them, the animal head-shaped headwear was made by making the best use of the shape of animal's head and it was used as the best disguising method when hunting. Second, clothes were composed of upper garments and lower garments. For the upper garments, Po and Jeogori were worn and pants were worn for the lower garments. The clothes were decorated with lining, applique, or top-stitching on the outer collar, neck circumference, and the edge of sleeves and pants. Third, for the footwear, high boots of leather were developed to meet the needs for a convenient life in the plains. In some areas, fur shoes and leather shoes were also used. Finally, accessories included bags and gloves. Bags were usually decorated with fur on the outside or with a fringe or applique of tanned leather. Gloves were lavishly decorated with embroideries and partly with fur or leather.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.127-140
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• 1998

A study on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from excavated tomb of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461-1528) is reported in this paper. This study is aimed at establishing database for a traditional Korean costume construction and emphasizing the necessity for development of methodology in writing report from excavated costume including measuring, construction methods and materials. This paper includes examples of measured length for each part of 'Dan-Ryung', reconstructured drawings, pictures, and construction methods. The followings on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century are found in this study: 1) Dan-Ryung robes were made of less expensive hemp, cotton, silk & cotton, and ramie & silk. 2) As a whole, Dan-Ryung was lengthy and spacious and it had straighter and narrower sleeves when compared to the ones from the late Chosun. 3) There existed Moo which was large rectangular guest with double pleats at Dan-Ryung's side seam. Its round collar was constructed with a 3 cm width bias. Ball buttons on the outer collar and loops on the right shoulder are attached. 4) There existed a pair of indirectly attached slim and short strings. Inside string is directly attached. 5) Inside of the shoulder, a U-shaped shoulder pad made of the same cloth as the inner cloth was attached. hand sewing methods used include delicate flat-felled seam stitch, back-stitch and sew-up stitch.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2001년도 19th International Costume Association Congress
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• pp.81-81
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• 2001

R.O.C. has experienced successively the development of previous dynasties that creates out the unique traditional culture of each stage. The Chinese nation is not a one-fold race; each dynasty absorbs the culture of the outside race. It is Tang Dynasty blends mutually however yield unusually brilliant results. The Tang Dynasty's national strength is forceful and the economy is prosperous. Above all, social custom and current of thought both break the constraint of previous dynasties' conservative thinking and keep positive and aggressive. While in the contact with extraterritorial culture, not only changes the feminine social status, but also produces unprecedented innovation and reform on the feminine dress. The Tang Dynasty's varied feminine suit is affected by the western regions of China culture, such as expose of chest, low collar, short top garment and skirt with narrow sleeves or wide sleeves, sleeve gown with plate collar or turndown collar, man's wear, and military dress, etc. An epoch can be known by Tang Dynasty feminine dress's special features, for example, the make-up of Tang-Shien-lon's Uan-Ho period presents dress style of late Tang days. However, the Chinese people compete mutually pursuing the strange costume, and accepting different cultural incitement This reveals that the changes of popular culture would result in the big transform of the Tang's dress style. This paper studies inherit of Tang Dynasty's culture and east-spread of the western regions of China culture. While understanding the Tang's favor in the western regions of China customs, all follow the western regions of China without exception, such as dance music, painting, dress, food, amusement, etc. Because of emperor's progressive race policy and forgiveness attitude to the foreign tribe that makes Tang Dynasty's feminine dress much easier to accept and blend the special features of the foreign tribe culture. While joined with west culture, and pick the dress's essence of the western regions of China, the original possessed of culture consciousness and esthetic sense improve and create their own dress, as well as enrich more inner part of dress art and the spirit.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.134-152
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• 2008

Functional, aesthetic and symbolic working uniforms in the industrial complex are demanded by employees and employers. The purpose of this research was to find out the actual wearing condition and preference of the working uniform design in the industrial complex. The research selected 7 enterprise subjects located in the Changwon National Industrial Complex and adopted a questionnaire method. 912 workers categorized into 4 work groups according to their work posts replied in total. The data and the degrees of satisfaction/preference of the working uniforms were analysed into descriptive statistics and F-tests by using the SPSS S/W package. The results were as follows: First, the style of the working uniform was the standard two-piece style. Second, the degree of the satisfaction with the entrepreneurial image implied to the working uniform was 2.83 throughout the 5-scale evaluation. In addition, the degree of the satisfaction with the working uniform colors was in between 2.94 and 2.96. Third, unsatisfied parts of the upper and lower uniform garments were: sleeve > pocket > collar; and waist belt loop > hip pocket > hem line respectively. Fourth, beige was the most preferred color for the working uniform top and bottom both. The most preferred color images were the calm and safety and the bright and light in order. Especially, the demand on the safety factors and soil proof colors of the outside field workers was much higher than the clerical workers. Fifth, the blouson type jacket with shirts collar or soutien roll collar was more preferred to than the casual style; and the straight formal pants were more preferred to than the casual/sweat sports pants styles. Sixth, inner pockets to keep the mobile phone and pens were required for upper garment details specially by manufacture workers. Increase of the waist belt loop numbers was required by all work groups.

• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.14-23
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the present condition of cold protective clothing for mailman, to improve its design in movement, fitness, and other functions, and supply basic data for its performance evaluation. The results are as follows : The 46.60% of those questioned did not satisfy current clod protective clothing fer mailman. Especially, they considered dissatisfactory in properties such as waterproof, comfort, activity, and sweat absorption. The newly developed cold protective clothing is two-piece style composed of jacket and pants. Both jacket and pants are composed of inner and outer clothing individually. In both jacket and pants, their outer clothing's material was waterproof, windproof, and breathable shell fabric on which PTFE film laminated and their inner clothing's material was 100% polyester Polar polis to have better insulation property. The jacket has attachable cap which can be used as rain gear and set-in sleeve with stand collar. It also had big outside patch pockets and side seam pockets to ensure enough storage space. The pants have knee pads to give free movement to knees and slant side pockets. Inner clothing of both jacket and pants can be worn during working inside without out clothing. Insulation of the newly developed cold protective clothing was not better than current one except right hand, left hand and left foo. It is considered that is because thickness of material is the most important factor to influence insulation.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제49권3호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2011

This paper reports on a study of the morphological design trends and characteristics of vests in contemporary fashion for women. A review of the relevant literature was conducted, and visual images found in various collections displayed in local and foreign papers and on internet web sites over the period 2001 to 2009 were analysed. The analysis of the vest designs showed that 78% had no collar, 41.8% were waist-length, 70.5% used general fabrics of various colors and patterns, 98.2% had a single fastening system, 69.8% used buttons for fastening, and 67.4% were intended to be worn as outwear over inner wear items such as a shirt or blouse. The trends in vest design were characterized by the expression of an androgynous image, by creative diversity and by an escape from traditional forms.

• 복식
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• 제67권1호
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• pp.147-168
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• 2017

This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.31-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes of modern Korean men's fashion from the 1960s to the 1990s by reviewing fashion magazine advertisements and pictorials. For theoretical study, the characteristics and the importance of apparel advertisements and the changes of modern Korean men's fashion trend were reviewed. On the basis of the theoretical investigation, this study analyzed 932 pictorials from Joongang Magazine, Shin Dong-A, Bokjangwolbo, Meot, Men's Life, WWD, and S.F.F.A's photograph album, published from 1962 to 1998. Content analysis method was used to analyze the content of magazines and pictorials. The 932 samples are classified into apparel types, silhouette, pattern, color, type of breasts, shape of collar, number of button, type of inner wear. Frequency and $x^2$-test were conducted using a SAS statistics package to analyse the data. The results were as follows. The two-piece style prevailed in men's wear during the 60s, 70s, and 90s, while separate style prevailed during the 80s. H silhouette was the most popular during the 60s, 70s and 90s, however, X silhouette dominated the 70s. For patterns, solids were most frequently used throughout the whole 4 decades. In colors, gray was most frequently used during the 60s, and multi color was most frequently used during the 70s, 80s, and 90s. Throughout the whole decades, single breast, tailored collar, two buttons, and dress shirts were the most prevalent styles.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.281-296
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• 2022

This study is designed to compensate for the lack of children's clothing relics from the early 18th century and to reproduce young upper-class girls' costume as hanbokcontent. The shapes and materials of costumes are based on the record of 『Sukjong-silrok』 in 1701 and the characteristics of adult ladie's costume relics in this period, but reproduced as miniatures of these relics as like Joseon children's clothing of another period. The reproduced costumes are formal wear for 3~4 year-old girls, consisting of yeoui [女衣], long unlined skirts, and lined skirts. Sizes were set at a height ratio of approximately 155:95. Yeoui is sam-hoejang-jeogori using pine pollen-colored damask with a grape-squirrel pattern and a purple damask with flower-treasure pattern. The full length of yeoui is 24.5cm. It has a square-dangko outer collar with square inner collar. The long unlined skirt is a six-width overskirt that is 82cm long, made with lotus patterned sa. The lined skirt is a five-width skirt that is 61.3cm made with flower-treasure patterned red damask and ju. Several long pleats on both sides of these two skirts have been omitted. The result provides meaningful content for children's clothing in the early 18^th century and will be used as costume for an educational trial performance.