• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to pursue the way of human body expression for prospecting of future fashion illustration through research of the methods and meaning expressed in the works of 30 years by Antonio Lopez. The research was conducted by looking into the perception of the body between 1960s and 1980s, when Lopez worked actively, on the basis of the discourse, art and fashion for the femininity and studying the representation method and meaning of the body in his works. Lopez suggested an index of the ideal beauty of the times through the representation of the immature body like a child in the 60s, the glamorous body in the 70s and the exaggerated muscular body in the 80s by predicting the changes of the perception of femininity and ideal beauty. As the result of this research, it is found that Lopez employed the art form for the representation of the body in his works and presented the polysemous implications of the art form in the context of the body expression. In addition, he redefined sexuality by focusing on the code that confronted the conventional women's morals by changing the representation method of the women's pose, and depicted the other's image such as the colored races, departing from the ideal human body based on the white women. Lastly, he deconstructed the human body in various ways, thereby enlarging the concept of the human body in the existing fashion illustration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.79-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.740-753
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• 2010

This study analyzes the motives of Korean women for choosing breast augmentation in a cultural and relational context; in addition, it investigates their evaluations after surgery. Data was collected through in-depth interviews with 10 Korean women in their 20s and 30s who have received cosmetic breast augmentation. Enlarged and made-up breasts are a form of clothing that symbolizes the socio-economic status of women. In the vertical and individualized Korean society, the desire of women for a fashionable body invigorated the appearance management market. Fashion consumers have passively internalized the ideal body trends as the concept of the ideal body-image, which has been constructed by the social structure, markets, and the media. The analysis was rooted in post-modern feminist perspectives on the female body. The ideal body-image internalization process through the social interactions of participants was the main cultural factor to choose breast surgery. The self-image and conformity/individuality of participant were categorized as relational factors for the motivation to undergo breast surgery. The result showed that after surgery the participants achieved positive feedback from their social relationships. They expressed or hid their socio-economic statuses through their purchased fashion bodies. They also showed higher self-esteem and feelings of satisfaction by pursuing individuality and conformity as a member of society. Moreover, they achieved wider fashion options and greater controls over their public/private/secret clothing choices for certain occasions. Cosmetic breast surgery positively empowered individual women while reinforcing the socially manipulated body ideals that oppress women at the same time. Participants internalized socially constructed values and justified their surgery choices.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.126-141
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing farm, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal body shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Representation of physicality refers to structural designs and elastic fabrication. Structural designs appeared in tailoring and bias-cut draping, as well as in stretchy clothes such as Lycra body suit and knit garments that highlights the body structure and movements of the body joints. In representing physicality in fashion, clothing forms reflect body silhouette and each body parts. Therefore, the shape of clothes (signifiant) corresponds to the anatomy and movement of the body ($signifi\'{e}$) in pursuit of aptness. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.49-66
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• 2003

In the relationship between post-modern feminism and the body. the body of women, which has been taken as 'other' by dominant arguments, has escaped from the fixed idea at post-modern times and the post-modern feminists tried to escape from the taste of the times about body image that was prevalent in the former times.'The taste of the times' here means the fixed physical form of ideal women's body by the educational custom, and it includes the educational prescription which establishes the docile body of women. This kind of educational custom aims at the perfect and permanent restriction on size, shape, desire, attitude and movement as well as on the overall demeanor and each part of the body. And the custom produces 'dependent and trained'. that is, inferiorized women's body. Hence, this paper points out that the feminity as a fixed Physical form should be overcome in order to move forward, and as one part of the effort, it attempts to analyze the designs which deformed and distorted women's body in 1990s. This research indicates that the work, which tries to deviate the fantasized and casted women's mystery, has been closely connected with the expression of 'non-separate bodies' and 'irregular body shapes' in 1990s, which aims at escaping from the fixation of women's body Image. Therefore, it is concluded that the target design trend of this research, which expressed the deformation and perversion of the body, provides the anti-these against the ideal body image of women and the these of feminity. which have been reproduced in various methods and patterns throughout the public and the culture on the whole by expressing the refusal and deviation of the existing women's body image through the post-fixation of the body pattern.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.221-231
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• 2012

To find the differences between the real somatotype and the ideal somatotype, WHR(Waist to Hip Ratio), WCR(Waist to Chest Ratio), and body cathexis were analysed by using ANOVA test, Duncan's multiple range test, and $x^2$ test. Fashion image sought by female collegians was surveyed, too. The results were as follows. WHRs in slim, usual, fat body type were 0.75, 0.76, and 0.83 and WCRs were 0.77, 0.81, 0.80. The respondents who considered themselves to be overweight recognized themselves to be fatter than their real weight. They were not satisfied with their bust girth in slim body type, thighs and calves in usual body type, and all parts except for foot length, hand length and arm length in fat body type. 60% of the thin people considered their body hourglass shape, 30.4% of regular people recognized their body triangle type, 43.8% of fat people thought their body was round form. They thought current ideal body size was bigger in height and bust girth and smaller in waist girth and hip girth, and weight than real body size. Also they responded ideal body shape was an hourglass type independent of somatotype. The pursuit of clothing image was that 45.5% of female collegians were fashionable and raffine and 10.4% of female collegians was elegant and graceful. Among the body area, body parts that may have an effect on body image were body length in 13.1% of the respondents, waist girth in 10.7% of the respondents, and hip girth in 10.0% of the respondents.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.604-619
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• 2007

Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation and non-representation of the body in fashion. Theoretically, this study draws from Jean Baudrillard's Simulation theory which maintains that simulation develops the whole edifice of representation. My study substitutes the successive phases of the image to that of (non) representing body in fashion. The correspondences between them are; first, 'image is the reflection of a basic reality' for the representation of physicality, second, 'image masks and perverts a basic reality' for the manipulation of physicality, third, 'image masks the absence of a basic reality' for the absence of physicality, and fourth, 'image bears no relation to any reality whatever' for the absence of body in fashion. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.50-65
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.70-80
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify transfiguration in fashion design. In order to inquire tile formative style and aesthetic values expressed in transfiguration in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Transfiguration signifies absence of body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Transfiguration is expressed in non-figural forms which implies metaphorical plasticity and abstract extensity. Transfiguration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. Ultimately, this phase also betrays the correspondence between signifiant and $signifi\acute{e}$ in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in transfiguration in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.9
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• pp.1085-1098
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• 2011

In the $21^{st}$ century, technology is a tool for the expansion of the five senses and physical ability that works as an element for posthuman identity. This study analyzes and theorizes on the characteristics of the posthuman body in fashion illustration. The method of this study analyzes documentaries about posthuman and fashion illustration. The results are as follow. Posthuman body types are classed as hybrid body, plastic surgery body, and digital body. The characteristics of the posthuman body are categorized as ultra- functional prosthetic, mythical undifferentiated, radical plastic surgery type and post-physical digitization type. The ultra-functional prosthetic type shows a restored body and upgraded functional body through a machine hybrid, cyborg suit and mannequin hybrid. It is a break from classical gender identity to form a nerve sense extension that displays physical and abstract power. The mythical undifferentiated type shows a therianthropic form, parts of an animal body, radical skin and gender bending. It represents the return to an undifferentiated world, the desire of a powerful being and the possibility of radical transformation. The radical plastic surgery type shows a photomontage of an ideal body, transgendered body, grotesque body marking, absence of partial or overall face organ and the expansion of abnormal body organs. It represents the expression of narcissism, unconscious desire, fantasy, fear and suggests an alternative ideality, sexual attachment and ambiguous gender identity. The post-physical digitization type shows an imperfect form or duplicated ego image through the omission of the body silhouette or detailed form, fragmented image using net, representative self like optical illusion using typography, an imperfect vague silhouette and immaterial body outline through the use of virtual light. It represents the lack of desire, narcissism, fluidity in a virtual space, the continued creation of a new self, ambiguous gender identity and the liberation of environment, sex, and race. Likewise, the posthuman in fashion illustration shows the absence of a species boundary, destruction of classical gender identity, a new personality and virtual self image.