• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.197-203
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• 1998

천수방정식 형태의 쌍곡선형 완경사 방정식을 이용하여 파랑의 반사파 성분을 분해하는 방법을 제시한다. 모델의 반사파 산정능력을 평가하기 위하여 Booij 경사면 및 물결사주에 적용한다. Chamberlain and Porter(1995)에 의하여 주어진 수심경사제곱항과 수심곡률항의 효과를 포함하였을 때 Berkhoff의 완경사 방정식에 의한 결과보다 유한요소법 결과나 실험 자료와 비교하여 훨씬 만족할 만한 결과를 보여주었다.

• 대한기계학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한기계학회 2002년도 학술대회지
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• pp.209-212
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• 2002

Since Berkhoff proposed the mild-slope equation in 1972, it has widely been used for calculation of shallow water wave transformation. Recently, it was extended to give an extended mild-slope equation, which includes the bottom slope squared term and bottom curvature term so as to be capable of modeling wave transformation on rapidly varying topography. These equations were derived by integrating the Laplace equation vertically. In the present study, we develop a finite element model to solve the Laplace equation directly while keeping the same computational efficiency as the mild-slope equation. This model assumes the vertical variation of wave potential as a cosine hyperbolic function as done in the derivation of the mild-slope equation, and the Galerkin method is used to discretize . The computational domain was discretized with proper finite elements, while the radiation condition at infinity was treated by introducing the concept of an infinite element. The upper boundary condition can be either free surface or a solid structure. The applicability of the developed model was verified through example analyses of two-dimensional wave reflection and transmission. .

• 한국수자원학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국수자원학회 2006년도 학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.567-573
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• 2006

An efficient typhoon wave-generating model is applied to northeast Asia sea zone presented that can be used by civil defense agencies for real-time prediction and fast warnings on typhoon-generated wind wave and storm surge. Instead of using commercialized wave models such as WAM, SWAN, the wind waves are simulated by using a new concept of wavelength modulation to enhance broader application of the hyperbolic wave model of the mild-slope equation type. The results simulated along the Korean coasts during Typhoon Nabi (2005) showed reasonable agreement with the recorded wind waves.

• 한국수자원학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국수자원학회 2006년도 학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.574-578
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• 2006

Tidal amplification by construction of the sea-dike and sea-walls had been detected not only near Mokpo Harbor but also at Chungkye Bay which is connected with Mokpo Harbor by a narrow channel. This brings about increase of tidal flat area and in particular increase of surge-wave combined runup during storms. The purpose of this study is to examine an efficient operational model that can be used by civil defense agencies for real-time prediction and fast warnings on wind waves and storm surges. Instead of using commercialized wave models such as WAM, SWAN, the wind waves are simulated by using a new concept of wavelength modulation to enhance broader application of the hyperbolic wave model of the mild-slope equation type. Furthermore, The predicting system is composed of easy and economical tools for inputting depth data of complex bathymetry and enormous tidal flats such as Mokpo coastal zone. The method is applied to Chungkye Bay, and possible inundation features at Mokpo Harbor are analyzed.

• 한국항만학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.399-408
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• 1999

Copeland’s(1985) hyperbolic mild-slope equation including diffraction refraction and reflection in the wave field is used as a governing equation in this study. The result of Maruyama & Kajima(1985) is used to calculate wave direction and that of Watanabe & Maruyama(1986) is used as a energy dissipation formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by the Leap-Frog scheme and compared with Watanabe & Maruyama’s (1984) hydraulic experimental results and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater. This wave model is applied to a detached breakwater and compared with Watanabe and Maruyama’s (1984) hydraulic model results to check the characteristics of reflected wave field around a detached breakwater. The distribution of wave height and we phase in front of a detached breakwater is more accurate than the Watanabe and Maruyama’s numerical results. The results from our wave model show good agreements with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. This model is applied to the Gamcheon harbor of pusan. the field observations were carried out at Pusan harbor wave station in 1986-1995 and the results were accepted as a design wave condition in this study. The wave height and wave period was measured by Dong-A university at one station in the Gamcheon harbor in 1996-1997 and used as a calibration criterion. The measured data were used as input data for the numerical simulation and also compared with simulated results. The numerical simulation shows a fairly good results which considering the effect of topographic characteristics and effect of narrow entrance due to two separated breakwaters in Gamcheon harbor. The wave distribution characteristics inside Gamcheon harbor is quite different with the offshore wave direction and wave period.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.6-10
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• 2001

Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develope as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. It starts from Berkhoff's(1972) mild slope equation and is transformed to time-dependent hyperbolic type equation by using variational principal. Finally the governing equation is shown as a parabolic type equation by splitting method. This wave-current model was applied to the kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.84-96
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• 2006

본 논문에서는 완경사 방정식에 새로운 항을 추가하여 파의 부분 반사 및 투과 현상을 수치모의하는 방법을 제시하였다. 반투과성 방파제와 같은 해안구조물 주변의 파랑장을 계산하고자 할 때, 반사율과 투과율 정보가 수리도형실험에 의해 주어지면 간편하게 적용할 수 있는 효율적인 수치모의 방법이다. 제시된 방법의 정확성을 검증하기 위해 2차원 투과성 방파제에서의 부분 투과 및 부분 반사 조건을 만족시키는지 여부를 수치모형 실험을 통해 확인하였다. 또한 본 기법을 3차원 반무한 방파제 와 투과성 이안제에 적용시켜, 방파제에 직각 또는 경사를 갖고 진입하는 파랑에 대해 수치모의하였다. 3차원 수조의 반무한 방파제에 직각 또는 경사지게 진입하는 파랑에 의한 방파제 주위의 부분반사, 부분투과 및 회절된 파랑장의 수치모의 결과를 각각 Yu(1995)와 McIver(1999)의 해석해와 비교하여 정확성을 검증하였다. 본 기법은 사용하기 쉬우면서도 정확하고 효과적으로 투과성 방파제 주위의 파랑장을 계산할 수 있다.

• 대한토목학회논문집
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.231-238
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• 1992

계산시간(計算時間)의 단축(短縮)을 위하여 EVP(Error Vector Propagation) 방법(方法)을 사용하여 타원형(楕圓形) 완경사방정식(緩傾斜方程式)을 해석(解析)하였다. 수치실험(數値實驗)은 수중(水中)에 타원형(楕圓形) 여울이 존재하는 완경사(緩傾斜) 해역(海域)에서 수행하였으며, 포물선형(抛物線形) 모형(模型) 및 쌍곡선형(雙曲線形) 모형(模型)을 같이 계산하여 각각의 결과(結果)를 수리실험(水理實驗) 결과(結果)와 비교(比較)하였다. 또한 이안제(離岸堤)가 설치된 파랑장(波浪場)의 경우에도 쌍곡선형(雙曲線形) 모형(模型)의 결과(結果) 및 수리실험(水理實驗) 결과(結果)와 비교(比較)하였다. 적용결과(適用結果) 계산시간(計算時間) 면에서는 다른 모형(模型)에 비하여 만족스럽게 단축(短縮)할 수 있었으며, 해(解)의 정확성(正確性)에서는 약간의 진동현상(振動現象)이 나타나지만 그 경향(傾向)은 잘 일치하였다.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.159-166
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• 2003

본 연구에서는 천해 파랑 계산에 널리 사용되어지고 있는 확장형 완경사 방정식과 계산 효율은 같게 유지하면서 Laplace방정식을 직접 풀 수 있는 유한 요소 모형에 대해서 연구하였다. 기존의 확장형 완경사 방정식을 사용하는 경우와 같은 계산효율을 유지하기 위하여 파동장을 수심방향으로 1층인 유한요소로 나누고, 요소내의 포텐셜을 수면에 위치한 절점에 대한 포텐셜만으로 표시하도록 한 후, Galerkin 기법을 적용하여 수치모형을 구성하였다. 요소 내 수평방향에 대해서는 통상의 보간함수를 채택하였으며, 수심방향에 대해서는 진행파의 수심방향 거동인 함수를 사용하여 보간함수를 구성하였다. 모형의 개발은 우선 연직 2차원 문제를 대상으로 하였다. 개발된 모형의 검증을 위하여 연직 2차원에서의 파랑 반사 및 전달문제에 적용한 결과, 개발된 유한 요소 모형은 계산상의 효율면에서나 해의 정확도 면에서 기존의 확장형 완경사 방정식에 기초한 모형과 같은 수준을 보임을 확인하였다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.41-52
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• 1995

the necessity of development of the Nearshore zone greatly emphasis in recent years. In the wave deformation model, we can get the wave height and wave direction using the hyperbolic mild slope equation considered the reflection wave. Radiation Stress the driving force of flow was calculated by the Watanabe and Maruyama who proposed on the partial standing wave. In the surf zone, applying the Izumiya and Horikawa's turbulent model considered the bottom friction and energy dissipation, we compared and examined with the Numerical model and Hydraulic test result of Watanabe and Maruyama. This model results obtained for Jin-ha Beach agreed well with the Numerical results. This model is expected so helpful to solve the prediction of the wave deformation problems in the development of the Nearshore zone in the future.