• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.463-474
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• 2000

The purposes of this study is to investigate the characteristics of historicism in modern fashion and to introduce the appropriate approaching and application method of costume history. As one of the characteristic of Post modernism, historicism is an important theme in modern fashion. In this study, the background and the characteristic of Post modernism is considered and the historicism in the Post modern architecture and literature is studied. Next, through the artworks of Vivienne Westwood and Christian Lacroix who are excellent in the modernization of historical costume, the historicism in modern fashion is studied. The characteristic of historicism in Post modem architecture and literature comes from the nostalgia, aspiration for the past, and recurrence to the nature. It is not the revival of the past but the crossover of the past and the present. The characteristics of historicism in modern fashion are as follows. ·form; style, silhouette, and items that are shown in the historical costume come with the mixture of modem textile, new technique, and modem design. ·Materials and patterns; classical and romantic patterns, the artwork of the artist, and the fabric which is remake of remains are used. ·Technique; Tailoring techniques and the pattern making of the historical costume are used. ·Trimmings and etc.; Lots of handworks, trimmings and accessaries in that are inspired from the past are used. These elements are not come from a certain place and time but mixed surpassing places and times. With that, not only the form and the position of wearing but the meaning and purpose of wearing are changed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.87-101
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• 2000

The purpose of study is explaining the Historicism as a result of compromise, historical eclecticism, between historical things and current cultural background instead of regarding it as an imitation from the past. It means that external factors in history help internal esthetic value surface out as costume. Fashion s history is more than the classified thing according to the appearance with the changes of the times. Intrinsic cultural elements should be added in creating new fashion. One of the different features between Modernism and Post-modernism. When coming to the period of Post-modernism, it connected with the historical factors to make something new by fragmenting, magnifying, or minimizing them. This is calles 'Historicism'in the world of art. It revived the past, not the past itself, in new ways : quotation, reuse, metaphor, and mixture. To represent the image, parody, pastiche, or bricolage was usually used. In post-modernism fashion, parody is a technique for imitating the past or the preceding forms with artists'own critical points of view. This technique gives us shock or surprise by using satirical, ironical or paradoxical expressions. pastiche shares the same part with parody in imitating particular or unique style, and it can be renamed empty parody, because it doesn't have any hidden motivation or satirical impulse. bricolage is a mixture of quotations from other works. It contains fragments that deepen the image. Like the techniques uttered above, the revival of history through parody, pastiche or bricolage is historical eclecticism and it is included in Historicism.

• 기록학연구
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• 제14호
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• pp.359-388
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• 2006

본 논문은 1881년 독일 프로이센의 국립 비밀 아카이브의 보존 기록 정리를 위한 규정에서 제정된 출처주의/원질서 원칙이 일정 부분 18세기 후반부터 시작되어 19세기 중반에 정립된 역사주의 실증사학의 학문적 목적과 방법에 근원하고 있음을 밝히고 있다. 총체적 유기적 관계에 놓인 민족을 단위로 하는 역사의 개별성을 확인하고 실현하는 것을 목적으로 하는 역사주의는 실증사학의 연구 방법에서 이론적 토대를 얻었다. 이러한 실증사학 전통은 기록 관리의 체계적인 제도를 구축하는데 크게 이바지 하였다. 역사 사실의 상호 유기적인 관계의 입체성을 실증적으로 인식하게 해주는 출처주의/원질서 원칙의 정립은 그 귀결이었다. 이에 대한 역사적 설명을 위해 필자는 랑케로 대변되는 역사주의 실증사학의 내용과 그 정립과정 그리고 랑케의 제자인지벨과 그의 제자인 레만의 프로이센 국립 비밀 아카이브에서의 활동을 분석 서술하였다.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.45-59
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• 2017

The purpose of the present study is to figure out what the issues faced by architecture were at the time immediately before the transition to modern era centering of the works of Otto Wagner who acted in Vienna, Austria at the Fin de $si{\grave{e}}cle$. Therefore, the following points were examined in the present study; first, how were new spaces necessary to accommodate modern lives organized and how were the plans changed; second, how did the external expressions of architecture pursued by Otto Wagner appeared between arts and technologies, between historicism and modernity, and between decorations and functions. Through the study, it could be seen that Wagner began from historicism and traditionalism and tried to compromise them with modernity. Many modern characteristics appeared a priori in Wagner's works from the construction of 'Linke Wien Zeile housing block' in 1898, his works completely broke from the typical historicism styles to open the period of inventive 'Secession styles.' At that time, Wagner concentrated on so called 'flat decorations.' Thereafter, his residential architecture completed to modern styles with 'Neustiftgasse housing block' as the peak. The characteristics of modern housing as above became a cornerstone of the modern functionalism later.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.213-228
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to defined the conception and characteristics of Post-Modernism and dealt with how they are expressed in costume. Major characteristics of Post-Modernism are Historicism, Pluralism, and Eclecticism and these are reflected in the costume. 1. Historicism of Post-Modernism is a trend recreate artistic symbolism which Modernism lacked in reference to historical factors of the past. It has been as a trend of restoration and an ornamental trend can be included in the category of historicism in that it restored historical ornaments. 2. Pluralism of Post-Modernism means an open-hearted attitude toward everything. In costume, it has been expressed as a trend of mixed fashion style such as ecology, street fashion and futurism, collapse and mix of genres, diversity of materials and emphasis on texture caused by assemblage, change of the use to escape from the conventional system and avant-garde. 3. Eclecticism of Post-Modernism is expressed as a blended fashion style based on the principal of de-dualism. It has several trends ; exotic trend by mixing both oriental and western culters, androgyny which is a mixed image of an and woman, and a trend to use many kinds of materials together influenced by collage which is an eclectic mode.

• 복식
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• 제54권6호
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• pp.13-23
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• 2004

To date, Italian fashion rans the top even its rise is far behind Paris and New York. The purpose of this study is to analyze and compare the aesthetic characteristics of the italian fashion through two representative designers who contributed to italian fashion. Italy had unique industrial system and craftsmanship from the history and sense of the beauty and the uniqueness from the culture. After the World War II, Italy started to produce elegant sportswears influenced by the progressive manufacturing techniques and practical culture of America. Italian fashion of 'easy elegance' is spearheaded by Vesace and Armani. The aesthetic characteristics of Italian fashion which are shown in the artworks of them are as follows. First, the characteristics of Versace dated from southern sensibility are sensualism, expressionism, historicism. 1) Sensualism: tight silhouette, overexposure, glamorous form, brilliant color, fabric showing femininity, gaudy accessaries 2) Expressionism: brilliant print and color, trimmings and accessaries 3) Historicism: form and motifs that are shown in the historical costume Second, the characteristics of Armani succeeded from northern tailoring are purism, functionalism, and multi-culturism. 1) Purism: clean lines, architectural and geometric forms, natural body line, neutral tones, luxurious fabric 2) Functionalism: functional form, neutral tone, natural fabrics 3) Multi-culturism: design and motif inferred from ethnic costume As such. competition between two different groups made it possible that Italian fashion occupies a special place in the international fashion system.

• 복식
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.137-151
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• 2003

Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in 1990s were analyzed. The types and the formative feature characteristics and the aesthetic values of domestic retrospective fashion were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows 1. The types of domestic retro fashion were historicism, ethnic, ecology. Retro fashion was expressed through applying and reappearing silhouette, detail. fabric and image of the costumes of the past. 2. Renaissance. Baroque, Rococo styles and the costumes and styles of 1960s and 1970s were mainly applied in domestic fashion. 3. Orientalism was emphasized and Korean traditional styles and Chinese costumes were expressed mainly in domestic fashion. Fashion trends recurrent and intimate to the nature were expressed in patterns, fabrics, dyeing and silhouettes of nature. 4. The formative feature characteristics of domestic retro fashion were recurrence, purity. tradition and decoration. As retro fashion applies costumes of the past newly, it supplies unlimited possibilities to the present fashion which seeks versatility.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.49-60
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• 1998

This study found through that Fortuny's art world with design aesthetics was devided into historicism, purism, exoticism and mysticism of color. \circled1 Fortuny's aesthetic observation dazzled at that time and he apply well-grounded opinion in historicism of his all creation and then accomplish on the whole mysticism of art and technique dwelled creativity, \circled2 Fortuny's Delphos gown realized new creation of beauty intact by that the simplicity and contingency was inquired into the art at that time. He revived that aesthetic was included in the drapery of ancient Greece, so indirectly express outline of the human body and realized pure image used a natural curved line of the human body. \circled3 Fortuny's creations included a exotic special quality. His clothes expected so many characteristics of 20C fashion and exotic, visionary fashion revolution in addition influenced on stage costume. ㉧ Fortune created new color specially "Tempera" and expressed mysticism of color that found a harmonious color character and texture through the ancient techniques included experimental mind of a multilateral try.teral try.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.126-140
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion design applying to the hoop, which have become various since 1980. To do this, this study is investigated the origin and the changes of the hoop historically, then classified its types, and finally analyze the collections from 1980 to 2003. The hoop was appeared on the late 15th century. Then in the mid 16th century, bell-shaped farthingale was prevailed, followed by drum-shaped wheel farthingale and hausse-cul in England and France. In the 17th century, slim silhouette was popular, so that the hoop declined gradually. In the 18th century, panier and panier double were introduced which is to make side-expanded skirt silhouette. In the 19th century, crinoline and bustle were created. The hoops applied to modern collections are used various materials, techniques, and forms. It is a main item of historicism which appeared in the trend of post-modernism and the phenomenon of applying underwear to an outer garment like corset. The hoop is adapted into three ways: only with the frame of hoop, wearing a skirt with some parts of the frame exposed on purpose, and wearing a skirt on the frame, thus not showing the frame. Thus, it is thought that wearing a hoop as a frame is used an element of recreation of past fashion, at the same time it was affected by historicism which is a branch of post-modernism. Applying the hoop as an outer garment may be affected by eroticism which changed underwear into an outer wear in postmodernism and deconstructivism.

• 영어영문학
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.279-304
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• 2012

Since the publication of Foucault's Discipline and Punish, theatricality has become one of the key concepts in New Historicism. By defining theatricality as the most definitive feature of early modern society and culture, New Historicists have promoted the idea that theatrical practices in every day life were eventually replaced by textual practices as the western society started to undergo modernization with the advent of print culture and technologies. This paper questions this linear model of English literature, the shift of literary practices from theatricality to textuality in the event of modernization, by closely looking at the ways in which newsbooks and playlets during the English civil wars appealed to their target readers. The early print-based literary commodities during the English civil war (i.e. newsbooks and playlets) were able to win the attention of their audience not by breaking away from theatrical energy and creativity but instead by embracing and taking advantage of them through the use of dramatic conventions, dialogues, and many others. The newsbooks and the playlets during the time, however, did not simply replicate the dramatic forms and experiences of the previous generation. Instead, as the case study of Craftie Cromwell exemplifies, they went further to produce a different mode of theatricality by reshaping everyday lives into serialized drama, whose resolution is always already delayed and postponed into the ever-receding future. In conclusion, the study of the newsbook and playlets during the civil wars suggests that the textuality of modern times, materialized in print forms, have been co-evolved with the development of new theatricality, whose contents and forms are susceptible to the changes of everyday reality.