• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권1호
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• pp.147-164
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• 2022

The aim of this study was to reproduce the ordinary attire of Yi Seung-hyu, a civil official and writer of the late Goryeo, which will be used to make a his portrait. The reproduced costume consists of a single-layered pyoui (表衣) and jungdan (中單), lined jeogori and baji, and geon (巾), created with reference to historical documents, materials, and portraits. The pyoui was made with samcheokbe, with an H-shaped neck-shoulder band, an oblique single collar, and rectangular gussets. Two skirts were attached on the inside at the back, similarly to dopo. The jungdan also has an oblique single collar, but has an I-shaped neck-shoulder band and triangular gussets. A flat felled seam stitch, whip stitch, and French seam stitch were used in the hemlines and seams of the pyoui and jungdan. The jeogori and baji were made with toju (土紬), and small ties were attached to stabilize them. The geon is a long, oblique hat, which has folded side lines, and was made with flexible black hangra and using a French seam stitch and backstitch. The results include the elements of "restoration, historical research, and portrait costume", and will be maintained as the cultural heritage of Samcheok City.

• 복식
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• 제55권7호
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• pp.142-155
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• 2005

This study shows historical Gagye(가계) The process of change and Characteristics through analysis on the old documents, related papers, and visual data, and represents its meaning in Korean Clothing history through analysis on originality of Korean Gagye(가계) style. Gagye(가계) is the cubic hair style which add other accessories on hair and is divided into two; Gagye(가계) and Chegye(체계) according to its material, role, and function. And Korean Gagye(가계) has been transformed suited to the times and showed various features according to pattern, wearing, and decoration aspect. In its style aspect, Korean Gagye(가계) style shows Hwangye type, Sseugae type, Gogye type, Dagye type, and Braided & coiled hair type. Each shows historical features. In its Wearing aspect, Gagye(가계) style shows Wearing ornamental hairpin on the head, Wearing Rag Ribbon on the head, and Attaching (Detaching) Wearing. And in its Decoration aspect, Gagye(가계) style shows decoration with accessories, one with flower arrangement, and one with shaking.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권8호
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• pp.1206-1217
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• 1999

This study is focused on 'mysticism' in fashion which is recently marked as one of the cultural phenomenon emerging at the end of the century, First of all the concept of 'mysticism' and 'occultism' are reviewed to define the mysticism in fashion. Mysticism as a cultural phenomenon is also examined in historical and social context. With these theoretical basis articles which were publshed in 1990s from Korean newspapers and magazines which reported cultural phenomenon related to mysticism are analyzed and categorized. Finally these categories are applied to fashion phenomenon and 'mysticimsm in fashion' is analyzed and clearly examined as a fashion trend. As a result mysticism in fashion that has arose as an end of the century phenomenon within the historical and social context could be categorized into five groups such as 'primitive religion' ' Christianity ' 'oriental philosophy' 'universe' and 'magic and witchcraft'.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.956-966
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• 2003

The purpose of study is to find out a suitable cleaning method for excavated textiles of Jeon-ui Lee(1570∼1647). The textiles were excavated from her tomb in 1997, and her descendents put them in a box without any treatment and kept them in the warehouse since then. We used two kinds of silk as samples, non-dyed and dyed textile. The experiment was performed by 8 kinds of wet cleaning and dry cleaning methods, an ultrasonic cleaner was used in the wet cleaning, decane and perchloroethylene were used as solvents in the dry cleaning. The use of the ultrasonic cleaner in the wet cleaning method did not show any damage to the fibers of the textiles and it not only cleaned well but also was safe for the fugitive dyes. It resulted in more effective cleaning when the detergent was used together. Therefore, it is effective to use the ultrasonic cleaning on the delicate historical textiles and helpful to the operator's safety and environment.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권8호
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• pp.37-48
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to survey Navajo's textiles of the transitional period(1868-1890) and to examine appearance background of those textiles. The two study questions were central to the project. 1) What were characteristics of eye-dazzler and pictorial in the transitional period? 2) How developed was the American trader's role? To perform the purpose, literatures on this subject were surveyed, investigation of textiles in Arizona State Museum and Historical Museum of Arizona were accomplished. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Eye-dazzler is called because of their small, serrate triangle and diamond patterns in intense, contrasting colors. Eye-dazzler mostly used Germantown yam and wedge-weave technique. Germantown was a plied yam colored with synthetic dyes. Wedge-weave technique used optical illusions and an undulating technique to create an effect of motion and rhythmic symmetry. 2. The Americans began to intern Navajos at Bosque Redondo, New Mexico in 1863. During their stay at Bosque Redondo, the Navajo came into greater contact with Rio Grande blankets. The influence of designs of these becomes increasingly important in the eye-dazzler. 3. Pictorial materials included rich new sources the railroad provided and living environment of animals, plants, hogans, neighbors, deities that interested the Navajo. Also, sandpainting textiles were a pictorial. Three types of textiles utilized: yei, yeibichai, and sandpainting tapestry. 4. The arrival of the railroad caused many changes for the lives and textiles of the Navajos. The railroad brought a new client into the Navajo, and the Navajos attempted new textiles with design-inspiring fresh materials to adjust taste of the eastern purchasers.

• 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국의상디자인학회 2004년도 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집*Proceedings of the Korea Fashion
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• pp.81-85
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• 2004

Yunnan(云南) province is located in southwest of China in which has four seasons and many historical remains. Twenty-six minor ethnics live in the Yunnan province which is known as a living folk museum. This is because they have preserved and developed their folk costume, artcraft, music and dance in their peculiar way with natural/cultural surroundings.(omitted)

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권9호
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• pp.1347-1360
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• 2009

Historical compliance with economics in a political interchange accepts the elements of multiculturalism to develop a new field in the research with China. New research seeks to point out the characteristics of the Baekje dress style in relation to studies on East Asian fashion that observe the role and place of Baekje apparel. This study reveals the formation background of Baekje dress culture. Examined are the cognitive world of Baekje dress culture. The study reveals the form of the three Baekje Kings and royal dress.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.112-124
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• 2011

Textile and clothing in Ancient Egypt have carried long history and tradition. Especially, Egyptian textile culture, created mostly by the Copt, has the originality of weaving technology and the artistic beauty of the weaving motifs, making the textiles comparable to modern textiles. The purpose of this study is to research on the characteristics of Coptic textile designs of ancient Egypt and the tunic, a basic garment made of Coptic textiles, and offer materials for the development of the textiles and designs with artistic values which can be shared in the modern era, not just for the research of the relics of the past. Therefore, this study will follow the historical background of Coptic textiles and the process of the development, and look into the distinct features under the categories of material, colors and motifs. In addition, the tunic and its weaving technology will be explained and this will help understand the originality of Coptic textiles. The scope of this study is limited to the period of the 3rd to 12th centuries when the Egyptian weaving technologies advanced dramatically and many of the ancient Egyptian textiles discovered from the grave goods dates back, the research methode of the tunic as well as books published at home and abroad, research paper and photograph works. The textiles had developed along the Egyptian history which was influenced by different cultures such as Greek, Roman, pagan, Christian, and later, Islamic. For the textiles, they used a variety of pictorial motifs including Greek goddesses, pastoral scenes related to the Nile River and animals, human figures, geometrical figures and Christian icons. They are symbolic, natural, and mythological characters, and this explains that the world views and religions of the weavers influenced the development of specific motifs. Coptic textiles was used to make a tunic, a simple straight-sided gown without sleeves worn by men and women and was woven in a combination of linen plain weave and woolen tapestry weave for a tunic. Not only the excellence of the weaving technologies and the beauty of the colors used in the textiles, but also the diversity of the textures through weaving, embroidery, and knotting are detected in Coptic textiles.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권9_10호
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• pp.1464-1475
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• 2006

This thesis is purported to contemplate glamour look reflected in fashion history, thereby to establish the styles of glamour expressed in fashion trends and to provide the categorical basis of fashion design. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the historical survey on the glamour look in fashion, and to conduct a case study by conducting survey of fashion photographs captured in an internet site called Firsview(www.firstview.com) during most recent ten-year period covering $pr\^{e}t-\`{a}-porter$ design products presented by ten leading Italian designers. Based upon the historical survey, there are four representative styles in glamour looks, including (1) luxury glamour, (2) hyperfeminine glamour, (3) kitsch glamour, and (4) romantic glamour. Luxury glamour looks were most often utilized by fashion designs of Valentino and Armani, which can be characterized by frequent usage of glittering details intended to emphasize the surface decoration. Hyperfeminine glamour looks were characterized by the frequent usage of black color in an effort to create fetish atmosphere or sensuality, which can be discovered from the fashion designs of Versace, Cavalli and Ferre. Kitsch glamour looks were characterized by the appropriation of details of vulgar subcultural features mixed with strong color combinations and ethnic trimmings. Versace, Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana were the main designers of kitsch glamour looks. Finally, romantic glamour looks, which were mainly expressed by Valentine, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace, were characterized by nostalgia and luxury with light colors and materials such as lace and transparent fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.357-369
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was to clarify the relationship between the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress, and to analyze its historical perspectives. First of all, the concept of the Ideal Beauty of Body, the definition of Dress Form, and the method and system to clarify Dress Form were depicted. Based on this frame work, the Form of Dress related to the Ideal Beauty of Body was described historically. For this purpose, documentary research were conducted and representative photography and paintings were used. The analysis was limited to the female one-Piece dress from Ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome, Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Naoclassicism, and to Romanticism. The results were as follows: 1. The Ideal Beauty of Body was found to be different throughout history and to be intimate- ly linked with fashionable dress. 2. The Form of Dress consisted of four basic components: The form of body itself, the form of clothing itself, the method of wearing, and the relationship between body and clothing. 3. The standards for classification of body form were body structure, body type, body proportion, posture, and movement. Clothing form was generally classified into flat type (unstructured type) and three dementional type (structured type); flat type was subclassified into draped type and tunic type. The method of wearing was classified into attached type, tying-up type, wrap·around type, pull-over type, open type and plastistic type. The relationship between body and clothing after wearing was generally classified into body priority type and clothing priority type. The clothing priority type was further divided into body exaggeration type and body concealment type; Body exaggeration type was further divided into upward type, downward type, forward type, backward type, right type and constriction type. 4. The pursuit of venus coelestis, metaphysical body part, ectomorphic body type, flat type clothing, body priority type; the pursuit of Venus Naturalis, physical body part, endomorphic body type, three dementional type clothing, clothing priority type proved to be closely related respectively by the historical study on the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress.