• 복식
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• 제55권8호
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• pp.85-98
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• 2005

This Study is to analyze characteristics of costume change of according to the status of character succeeding the investigation of the ceremonial costume change in historical TV dramas that The Empress Myungsung entered. For this study, the costume images among historical TV dramas, that Myungsung entered, '500 years of Chosun Dynastyv, Taewongun(1990, MBC)', 'The Glorious Dawn(1993, KBS1)', 'The Empress Myungsung(2001, KBS2)'were used: The characteristics of the costume change of main character are as follows. First, main character's costume has been increase gradually in number and item. Second, Especially in the last work,'The Empress Myungsung', the royal costume based on historical evidence in aspects of silhouette, but it didn't according to the historical costume in aspects of color and textile. Nevertheless the costume reveals the status of each person significantly. Third, the costumes of the recent historical drama appears as a optical symbol that represents historical view point and different interpretation of each drama. Therefore the costume according to the status of the character wrong from the historical point of view. Consequently, TV costume in historical drama Myungsung entered has been focused on the beauty of the screen and dramatic effect than historical viewpoint. So the costume have been to be an essential visual part by means of the symbol revealed the purpose.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.27-41
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• 2009

As for modern people, the fashion accessory plays a role in allowing the whole coordination in clothing to be highlighted, receives environmental factors in the complementary relationship with clothing, and is being progressed rapidly as well. Among accessories, it is considered to be probably significant to examine especially about the historical consideration and the transitional process in bag, which becomes a means of expressing free individuality in fashion while recognizing importance of bag, which is being developed today as a necessary article along with diverse lifestyles in each individual. Accordingly, the purpose of this study was to examine which correlation a bag comes to have with clothing according to a historical change in fashion and was changed in the transitional process of historical consideration on bag from the latter half of the medieval times to the modern times. Also, it tries to analyze on features in a form, material, kind, and color by period in a bag. Thus, the aim is to be conducive to a future qualitative research on bag Through the research process, it could be known about which a bag has been changed into diverse forms while experiencing several processes in order to conform with a flow of clothing, which is required by society according to a change in period, and about its historical significance, value, and aesthetic characteristics. It was certainly necessary for walking about with putting commodity necessary for people in it. As one of accessories that cannot be separated from clothing, it makes it available for knowing user's social standing and position and living scale, and makes it realized for the importance influence upon establishing a woman's identity.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.543-553
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• 2014

This study analyzes the visual image and the symbolic image of the 'New Woman' main female characters' costumes in three films: , , and , set in the Korean Empire Period and filmed in the last 10 years. The findings are as follows. First, on the visual image by formative characteristics, Gibson girl style was reflected in Western costume design. Korean costume design is based on a traditional style (or modified in some parts). Second, the three films have the same historical background on the visual image by the fidelity of historical research; however, the fidelity of historical research differs and varies with the personality of characters or situations in the films. Third, all three films share the symbolic image by characteristics of characters and 'New Woman' aspect with the same historical background and 'New Woman' female character in common; however, the personality and 'New Woman' aspect of the characters were somewhat different. There was also a distinct difference in the symbolic image of Western and Korean costumes. Western and Korean costumes signify externality versus internality and denial versus the affirmation of national identity in ; dailiness versus ceremonialness and dynamics versus statics in ; and independence versus conformity and variability versus continuity in .

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.385-399
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• 2017

This study will broaden the application of doll costume product with historical characteristics and the image of unlined cheollik in the $17^{th}$ century period of transition during the Joseon Dynasty. Historical design sources were extracted from old documents and precedent studies. Unlined cheollik of Shin Gyeong-yu, meritorious retainer, were selected as main reference-relic because of various fabric, preserved conditions and definite shape. 'Baby doll' was selected as main model because of consumer preferences and awareness. Design sources from unlined cheollik in the early $17^{th}$ century were about a 1:2 ratio of upper and under parts, removable separated doori-somae, knife-shaped collar (outside), projected square collar (inside), long pleats line, side slit, traditional flat fell seam sewing. Trapezoidal side line, round waistline, and thin fabric were applied in designs because of toddler-body of doll model. Three designs were produced in step 1: Cheollik A focusing on the historical remake (traditional type), Cheollik B with belt and side slit (crossover type), and Cheollik C with back- opening (modern type). In step 2, interview with fashion major student was conducted to increase the utility of designs. As a result, modern trend sources (frill, velcro, round armhole line, slope of sleeves, and floral pattern) were reflected in Cheollik B, C. Finally, three doll cheollik and cheollik-styled doll apron sample were produced. Various versions must be suggested in the study of doll costume products with traditional sources that balance historical characteristics and practicality to improve customer satisfaction.

• 복식
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• 제61권2호
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• pp.32-46
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• 2011

The study researched the characteristic of helmet and armor reflecting Joseon Dynasty by focusing on the helmet and armor appearing in dramas, the Tear of Dragon and King Sejong, whose common point is the historical background, the early Joseon Dynasty, among the historical dramas, which are manufactured on the basis of historical person or age. First, the helmet and armor appearing in historical drama was reproduced on the basis of historical record depending on age. In the early Joseon Dynasty, helmet was classified into cheomju and wonju and armor was classified into chalgap, swaejagap, gyeongbeongap, dujeonggap and dudumigap. In drama, the Tear of Dragon and King Sejong, for helmet, cheomju and wonju were used and for armor, chalgap, dujeonggap and dudumigap, whose type and manufacture method were similar to that of historical record, were reproduced. Second, the helmet and armor appearing in historical drama searched for function. In drama, the Tear of Dragon, rather than heavy iron, plastic and textile were used and the metal scale inside armor was removed. In drama, King Sejong, the weight of armor was decreased by removing the metal scale inside armor and easy wearing was secured by using velcro. Third, the helmet and armor appearing in historical drama expressed various dramatic interpretations. In drama, the Tear of Dragon, the same color as that of armor was adopted for helmet to provide stable and unified feeling. Visually splendid display was added to armor by matching powerful prime color and glossy metal. In drama, King Sejong, modem sense was added to helmet and armor by actively using pastel color reflecting modem fashion.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.89-97
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• 2003

This study is to review the development of calico printing pattern design for fabric through historical perspective. Calico is a cotton cloth named from Calicut, a city of India. It was first brought to England by the East India company in 1621. Although the name is generally given and plain white cotton cloth, and in America it is applied to small-scale printed cottons, today it applies to indian cotton cloth, coarse or fine, woven with colored geometrical large-scale and small-scale patterns, painted or printed. Therefore this paper proposes the classification and feature extraction of calico printing pattern from the early of 16th century to 21th century. The results of this study can be effectively applied to develop competitive calico pattern design in domestic cotton textile industry.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.73-90
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• 2011

Modern footwear is accepted as a fashion accessory that plays the role of a point of style, which reflects trends and makes use of individuality and stylishness, not a practical means itself. This study considers diverse types of western shoes, which had been historically popular from, and about a role in accordance with it, and grasps the occurrence background and the aesthetic characteristics in shoes type, which had initiated fashion in the historically cultural aspect. Thus, the aim is to be conducive to developing design related to modern shoes. As a result of this study, shoe styles have changed in relation to the historical situation throughout every period from medieval times to mid-modern times. Two functions of shoes, practicality and aesthetics, could be observed tendency of leading fashion in the middle of mutual control and supplementation according to social conditions, economic strength in a person of wearing shoes, social standing, and gender. Accordingly, considering that designs related to shoes are influenced by the historical conditions, continuous research on unique designs according to each era is thought to be necessary to develop shoe designs of the future.

• 복식
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• 제61권7호
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• pp.67-79
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• 2011

This study is to design a ball-jointed doll costume with historical research in clay female doll's costume from Hwangsung-dong tomb of the Silla Dynasty[新羅] in 7C. This clay female doll's costume was characterized by slim silhouette, long sleeves, no neckline, side slit, high waistline, and bun on the back neck of representative of the early era. According to literature of 7-8C and textile relics, it is presumed that she wore short Jeogori[短衣, Dan-eui] with long sleeves and two layered skirt, and Dan-ryeong(團領) could be added as attachment that is reflective of the time era. For making design costume, Ra[羅, silk gauze] was used for long Dan-ryeong, plain silk and brocade[錦, Geum] for Dan-eui and skirt as a special textile of this period. Waist dart and small snap were added to the costume of ball-jointed doll because of hardness and curvy shape of doll's body, without contradicting traditional value. For better use of this study and cost reduction purposes, development of production system for traditional doll costumes should be considered.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.249-262
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to contemplate evening dress in contemporary fashion, thereby to analyze aesthetic characteristics of evening dress. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the historical survey of evening dresses, and to conduct a case study of survey of fashion photographs covering $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}t$-porter design products from 2000 to 2007 presented by Valentine. Based upon the historical survey, there are five representative styles in evening dress. Flapper chic looks could be characterized by frequent usage of sleeveless straight silhouette with long or mini hemlines, expressing sensuality, luxury, and ethnicity. Satin Siren looks were characterized by bias-cut, slim, long silhouette, expressing sensuality and luxury. Feminine Ideal looks were characterized by hourglass silhouette and decolltage with feminine details such as bow, pleats and frills, expressing historicism, luxury and sensuality. Freedom and fantasy looks were characterized by ethnic details or modern silhouette with transparent, printed materials, expressing ethnicity, sensuality, and luxury. Finally, postmodern glamourous looks were characterized by body-conscious silhouette with transparent, shiny, or stretch materials, expressing sensuality, experimentalism and luxury.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.49-62
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• 2014

This study is intended to historical research the Jebok(ritual robes) of Jirisan Namakje. Joseon Dynasty established Five Manners as a country-ruling policy on the basis of Confucianism, the religious clothes-wearing method has been established through Sejong Silok Five Manners and the ritual robes system of all the government officials has been handed down to the end of Joseon Dynasty. The ritual robes of all the government officials was worn at the timed of the religious ceremony included ritual manners, and ritual robes are composed of Yanggwan, Ui, Sang, Jungdan, Peasul, Hwan, Wu(a cord, a leather belt, a belt, jade, a mace, Bangsimgokryeong, Mal, Ri, etc., and the rank was classified by the number of the veritical line of Ynaggwan, a leather belt, Hwan, Wu and jade and typeof a mace. "Jongmyouigwe" during the reign of king Sukjong described exactly the Uicha and textile of the ritual robes at that time, the textile Ui used Heukju as same as "Jegiakgidogamuigwe", and jade was used only in case of the first rank ritual official and other government officials did not wear jase. Also, it was revealed that all officials used a wooden mace, and in case of Husu, the first rank ritual official used Jikseong and other official used a picture.