• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.17-29
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• 2003

This survey paper examines general characteristics of "yellow" color, the oldest color in the history of art. Also the research aims to find meanings of the color and historical development embedded in clothing and textile both in orient and in occident where different philosophy and history developed. It is found here that the yellow symbolized both positive and negative meaning in the history of costume throughout the world. The color, however, was used to symbolize mostly positive meaning in the orient whereas not in the occident. "Yellow" color in orient used to symbolize the supremacy of the emperor, excellence and authority. The meaning of "yellow" color in the occident is two fold: from the positive viewpoint it represent god, king, wisdom, wealth and holy light, and from the negative viewpoint it represent image of betrayal and distrust, image of immorality, image of death and disease and image of jealousy and hatred. The concept of "yellow" was generalized in orient by the "Eum-Yang-O-Haeng Theory", while in occident by the Christianism. And the concepts came to hold concrete meanings and thereafter the symbol of yellow appeared.ings and thereafter the symbol of yellow appeared.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.18-28
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• 2009

Korea Ancient Gagye in Clothing history has the following meanings with ceremonial, social, and aesthetic aspects, related to symbolism of its formality and procedures, flexibility about social aspects, and clothing beauty. First, Gagye must be worn in formal ceremonies with its clothes. Different Gagye in different time and place means the symbolism of its formality and ceremonies. Gagye played a big role as a means to carry out national ceremonies In diplomatic relationship with China. Second, Korea Ancient Gagye had been worn in every class irrespective of social status. Because it could be worn reflecting personal preferences even in old communities. Additionally Gagye had flexibility to reflect the historical aspects and improved various Gagye types reflecting Buddhism and practical science. So Gagye becomes significant sharing the common value with Korea Clothing culture. Third, Korea Ancient Gagye developed aesthetic spirit concerning beauty of Clothing. In the Age of the Three States, Clothing and Gagye types kept balanced and made good harmony. Gagye had gotten little exaggerated and expanded and become changed into loaded hair type.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.53-64
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• 2013

Culture has played a pivotal role in fashion from time immemorial. The objective of this research is to explore the power of cultural affiliation in fashion. The selected study setting is the Kandyan Kingdom of Sri Lanka. The Kandyan Kingdom of Sri Lanka lasted almost 3 1/2 centuries from 1474-1815. The whole period faced different foreign cultural forces. As a result of such diverse cultural influences the Kandyan dress showed a hybrid formation of Western and South Indian and Sinhalese traditional sartorial features. Sewing techniques and unsewn dress arrangement methods were mixed together. The dress became an amazing blend of Eastern and Western dress items. They combined different aspects of foreign dress together to yield a unique result. The analysis comprises observational study of actual descriptions made by observer- participants, historical records, murals of the period review of ancient literature and research papers relevant to the subject. Reliability of the data was ensured. The pictorial data were cross checked from different literary sources. Many original sources were used. Results: Culture and fashion have strong interconnection. When features of culture change, trends of fashion are gradually correspondingly changed.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.34-36
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• 2001

Chirimen (silk crepe) has been one of Japan's most distinctive textiles since times and has gained a reputation worldwide as the supreme example of Japanese costume. It is because of its distinctive quality and features, transcending the history, lacation and lacal of the people who wear this form of clothing, that chirimen has continued to highly valued over a long historical period. There is a wide range of literature on the subject of chirimen written from the standpoints of introducing the various types of material, discussing its history, and looking at the origins of the textile unions. However, most such writings are little more than fragmentary attempts to describe these matters from an empirical and publicity-oriented position. Very little serious research has ever been published in this area. In the present study I examine the features of chirimen. I began by directly interviewing kimono wholesalers, kimono stores and Western-style clothing stores on the subject of chirimen in order to establish a clear image of this fabric. I then went on to examine the subject experimentally in terms of the physical properties of the fabric in connection with the features of this image. In the study of the physical properties of the material, I selected habutae as a silk fabric to offer comparisons with chirimen. Habutae is used frequently together with chirimen in garments such as semi-formal visiting kimono (homongi), kimono in non-color fabric (ironashiji), mouming kimono (mofuku), broad-sleeved kimono (tomesode and furisode), and undergarments such ad juban.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.105-120
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• 2003

Culture and society exist in the present, but they came from the past. So did clothing. As dressing is deeply based on culture pattern of the times, it is affected by various culture patterns and still keeps developing in modern times. This study is intended to examine the features of retro fashion on culture and dressing of the 19th century. The features of retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing are objection to the existing pattern, recursion to the past, and creativity characteristic of pattern of those days. Neoclassicism arose as it rejected Baroque and Rococo style, and imitated culture and artistic pattern of Greece and Rome. Romanticism objected to formal and universal pattern of Neoclassicism, and imitated Gothic style while recognizing historical facts and studying medieval times. Dressing in Neoclassicism did not accept exaggerated and luxurious Rococo pattern, and imitated simple, soft and straight silhouette of Greece and Rome and created its unique Empire Style. Romanticism imitated luxurious style of Renaissance, the Middle Ages, Baroque, and Rococo, different from simple and straight neoclassical style during the Bourbon restoration, and created its unique style. Thus, it is shown that retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing reflect the style of those days.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.1 s.91
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• pp.101-112
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• 2005

One of the curiosities harbored most by anthropologists may be why women are so different from men physically. One of such differences must be the breast. Female animals do not have such a swollen breast even when they nurse their young. We can find many Western garments highlighting the breast, but in Korea the tradition has been that the breast should not be highlighted. It was because the large breast was deemed useful that Western people appreciated it highly. In general, it is conceived that to ancient Westerners' eyes, the nursing function of the breast was very mysterious, because the food supplies were insufficient. Although the size of a breast does not affect its nursing function, Westerners may have thought that it did. To the contrary, in the societies with rich agricultural products, the breast was not much emphasized as the reproductive organs. Since people are more and more concerned about their body and the breast or one of the body parts characterizing the femininity is regarded as an important element of design, it may well be significant to research into the breast designs for development of the fashion design. With such basic conceptions in mind, this study was aimed at reviewing the artworks featuring women's breast and their historical background and thereupon, analyzing the aesthetic values of the breast-featuring designs by dividing them into four categories in large.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.1-8
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• 2006

This study was aimed at reviewing kinds and characteristics of children's costumes in consideration of their social and cultural backgrounds and particularly, those of children's costumes during the period of Enlightenment following Chosun dynasty and thereafter. Namely, this study focused on children's costume history in view of not adults' costume miniatures but their own concept. It is deemed very significant to review the history of our traditional costumes and thereby, express their decorative features with our contemporary sense. It is results can be summed up as follows; Strictly speaking, the period of Enlightenment can be defined as the one from Gwangwhado treaty in 1876 through annexation of Korea by Japan in 1910, but it may well extend until our emancipation from Japan in 1945. By 1890's, children's costumes remained almost traditional, but since then, the Chimas as well as Jeogori and breast tie began to be narrower. Particularly, Children's Jeogori began to be narrower with their breast tie disappearing gradually. By 1910's, children's costumes had changed much, with the breast tie replaced by the buttons and the longer Jeogoris.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.738-754
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• 2020

As a cultural feature of, the relics of the Royal Tomb of King Muryeong are suitable design content for applying with sophisticated production and delicate molding laser cutting techniques. The purpose of this study is to develop modern bag designs using relics of the Royal Tomb of King Muryeong of Baekje using laser-cutting techniques. First, the historical background and meaning of Baekje's cultural content were explored. Second, the principle of laser-cutting techniques were explored, laser-cutting techniques applied to modern fashion and bag design were examined, and bag design characteristics were analyzed. Third, based on prior research, the criteria for the development of bag design, from which eight bag design were developed that combine modern popularity and functionality utilizing Baekje cultural content and using laser-cutting techniques to apply the textile design developed by researchers in 2013 (modified to match laser-cutting techniques). The research results show that bag were clutch, tote, shoulder, and mini. Gold, silver, brown, beige, and navy colors were arranged, based on black/white contrast. Cow, lambskin, washed snakeskin, mesh, and Saffiano leather were used. For the pattern-applying technique, this study showed that a new digital technique, which is laser-cutting techniques could be combined with contemporary bag designs. Moreover, a bag design was developed that has a modern sense and functionality as well as Korean formativeness, which is significant.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.932-948
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• 2021

Tartan, the woven, checked, and wool textile considered by many to be originally from Scotland, has in fact been in use in a range of forms across numerous cultures and during various historical periods. The characteristic checked feature is due to the assembly of different coloured threads in both warp and weft directions which intersect at 90 degrees in a combination known as a sett. For well over one hundred years, different setts and thus different colour combinations have been associated closely with different geographical regions within Scotland, as well as different clans or families. Tartan-type textiles have reached popularity at various times and those have often been a predicted fashion trend suggested, for example, by contributors to fashion gatherings such as Premier Vision in Paris. Often proposed designs are best considered based on tartan combinations rather than simple reproductions. Promotional terms such as "patched checks" or "textured checks" have been common, and often these have been derived from tartan-type constructions. This paper explores novel pattern design methods by identifying the underlying grid structures and proportions exhibited by various well-known tartan setts. The possibility of pattern development from tartan grids and their manipulations is thus the focus of attention. An insight into the methodology associated with the production of original pattern designs is thus provided.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.23-36
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• 2004

The knitting, which has developed from the onset of human civilization, has a close relation to dwelling as well as to clothing itself. Its progress has taken shape in a variety of forms according to nature-friendly tools and its knit texture in the past is different from that of modern times. With this basic idea, the work aims at the further study of various knitting structure which triggered the origin of modern techniques, the establishment of those methods, and the finding of what means was utilized earlier based on these. By doing that, this study will provide the foundation in the Korean historical timeframe in knitting field and give definition to knit wear in a historical sense. As to definition, the outcome in the research boils down to two categories. broad meaning and narrow meaning. The former can be the hook-formed textile, referring to making, twisting, or binding the knots. On the other hands, the latter, that is, narrow type, can be the loop-linked fabric which can be defined as modern knitting. The knitting dates back to the ancient way of binding structure, combining structure in other words, and braiding structure and this kept dividing into subgroups like Netting. Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet as the usage of hands and tools by mankind has got improved. And it changed into knitting and crochet which means a bamboo needle-hook knitting (larger needle type) and a crochet-hook knitting (smaller needle type), respectively through middle ages and modern times and settled down to the production of fabric. In this work, Netting, Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet are classified as ancient category in which these originate the modern knitting method. Though the modern type of knitting is not found in the Joseon Dynasty, some various methods from the ancient twisting skill and binding skill where the materials with easy access to acquisition in the nature such as rattan, straw, horsehair, hemp, rush, cotton, silk and the like to Netting, Nalbinding and Sprang except Crochet were handed down and used in costume for diverse application. This work can provide the basic frame in terms of Korean history of knitting which has been excluded in the relevant researches until now. When applying the study, it would trigger the initiation of more versatile design with which the previous unique techniques along with modern techniques can be adopted in the clothing market as knit designs gain in public favor more and more.