• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.16
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• pp.111-123
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• 1991

We suppose that Poback-cheok appeared with wearing clothes in the ancient times. At first, man used body as a scale, and it is gradually diversified with social development. It is clear that also in the time of Shilla-Dynasty, the United Shilla-Dynasty and the Goryeo-Dynasty, the system of degree existed in historical relation to that of China. But we don't know it's real length, because there is no recording until the beginning of the Yi-Dynasty. The first recording about Poback-cheok appeared in the time of the King Sejong. Hwangjong-Cheok which is a original vessel of the degree system appears in the 7th years of the King Sejong. In the 12th years of the King Sejong, Ju-cheok, Youngjo-cheok and Joyegi-cheok appeared. In the 13th years of the King Sejong, Poback-cheok appeared as a new changed one. At that time, the length of Poback-cheok is recorded as 44.75cm in chapter of Oye and Jonsoo Pobaek-cheok is recorded as 46.73cm in Jeonjesangjeongso's picture, and it is recorded as 46.80cm in the Kyunggugdaijeon. The scale system is put in good order in the time of King Sejong. But it is confused by the war of 1636 after King Seonjo period. In the 26 th year of King Youngjo, it is reappeared as one of the King Sejong, and it is fixed as 46.80cm. The length is used until the proclamation in the 6th years of the Kwangmu(1902), and then the length of Pobaek-cheok is changed as 48.48 cm, that is measured by a Gok-cheok. After that time, the scale system is very confused during the introduction of new civilization and the Korean-Japanes Unit. So it is used longer or shorter(that is, 49.24cm or 48.91cm). And the metric system is introduced by Japanes in 1926, and it reached the present time. According to use, the actual thing with is used in the end of the Yi-Dynasty is various from 30cm to 70cm. And according to material and craft-man, it can be devided into Hwa-gag scale, Najeon-blacklacquer-scale, bamboo-scale, wooden-scale. The way of expression of measure is always followed by the decimal system. The other half part, except the part of expression of graduation, is put on decorate with a pattern. Also we can see the idea of living on this point.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.443-456
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• 2017

The Geumran-gasa (Kasaya) and Jangsam of the monk Samyeong are historical relics and were designated as object No.29, a Buddhist costume of the Joseon Dynasty, by the National Folklore Cultural Heritage, in 1973. In 1984, after being treated for the purposes of washing and preserving the shape of the garments, the object was kept in the Temple Museum of Pyochungsa, as their holding institution. However, regular inspection conducted by the Cultural Heritage Administration in 2013 determined the need for a re-treatment. The Geumran-gasa had been originally made with 25 strips, but it had been separated into two parts and many pieces were lost. A part of the collar in the Jangsam was lost as well. Therefore, both relics needed to be restored. The re-treatment process involved pre-investigation, washing, reinforcement fabric dyeing, restoration, and fumigation. In particular, we focused on reinforcing the damaged parts and restoring the missing parts by applying advanced materials and methods in order to restore the original form as much as possible. This conservation is the result of the re-treatment of the cultural properties by replacing the old material used in past treatments and applying advanced methods under the basic principle of reversibility in conservation treatment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.94-109
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• 1998

The objective of this study is to measure self-image of adolescence, analyze empirically clothing-purchasing-behavior of adolescence and clarify correlation of two variables, self-image and clothing-purchasing-behavior. For this purpose, the techniques involve theoretical studies and researches based on historical obtained from previous related studies and surveys, 431 high school female students who reside in Seoul are asked to answer selected survey questions to examine three aspects, clothing-purchasing-behavior, self-image and demographics. The evaluation of surveyed information is analyzed by statistical techniques to improve the accuracy of data. Statistical methods used are as follows; Descriptive(frequency, mean, percentage), Factor Analysis(varimax rotation), Crosstabs(Chi-square), T-test, One-Way ANOVA< Correlation Analysis, Reliability Analysis and Duncan's Multiple Range Test. The mjor results of this study were as follows: Firstly, there is a discrepancy between real self-image and ideal self-image. Furthermore more significant differences is seen from physical aspects than psychological aspects. Consequently, research proves that the difference derived from their ideal situation and real situation leads to psychological unstableness. In addition, making their real self-image is dependent upon several elements such things as family economic level, pocket money, expenditure on clothing. Therefore, it is critical to combine all factors in order to decide how much to spend for children's clothing and pocket money in parents point of view. Secondly, research shows that shows hat there is correlated relationship between average expenditure on clothing and presence of mother's job. Average expenditure on clothing is, generally, influenced by vogue which is tend to be changed seasonally. It, also, shows that there is positive linear regression between expenditure on clothe and sensitivity for vogue. That is to say, dependent variable, expenditure on clothing, is varied as independent variable, sensitivity for vogue, changes. Female high school students are likely to give much value on brand. Moreover people who are spending more money on clothes have higher tendencies in prompt purchases than who are not. Thirdly, the analysis of clothing-purchasing-behavior and self-image shows that the difference between real self-image and ideal self-image draws the main reason of dissatisfaction after purchase of clothes. As a consequence, their unfilled needs lead them to keep making another purchase to satisfy themselves. Therefore, it is strongly recommended that parents' advices and directions on their children's money spending on clothes are imperative to establish well-behaved purchasing patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.61-73
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• 1997

Kon-myuh was worn by the ancient Chinese and Korean rulers as ceremonial dress during special rituals such as worshipping heaven and ancestors marriage or funerals. kon-myun consists of two major parts-Myun and kon-bok (the main bodypiece) as well as other articles of clothing(skirt footgear etc), There were regulations set in ancient books describing in detail the make of the kon-myun number of ryu and symbol to be used all which applied to each ruler depending on rank and status. This study is aimed at examining the consistency of the korean and Chinese in following the regula-tions as seen in relics which have been recovered from the past. Based on historical findings it seems that Korean Kon-myun came to Korea from China during the Three Kingdoms period. It was also worn in the Koryo and Chosun Dynas-ties and the Taehan Empire. In studying Konmyun in Korea the researcher studied a book from the early Chosun dynasty, Kukjo-oryeuiseory and a book from the late Chosun Dynasty Kukjo-sangrye-bopyun to find the guidelines and rules applying to the Kon-myun tradition. Slight difference were found across time in the supplementary articles of clothing as seen in Uigwe Pokwan-doseols explanations and drawings of Kon-myun. The researcher used uigwes of funerals of kings of the Chosun Dynasty and observed change over this period of time. However there was a clear consist-ency: the king's Kon-myun consisted of 9ryu-myun 9chang-bok while that of the prince consisted of 8ryu-myun 7chang-bok. For the Taechan Empire the researcher used Tae-han Yae-jun which shows the emperor's kon-myun to have consisted of 12ryu-myun 12chang-bok. To study how the regulations were put into practice relics were uncovered from the periods being studied. A portrait of King Ik-Jong remnants from King Ko-jong's Kon-bok and a photograph of Emperor Sun-jong all were in close adherence to the regulations outlined in the books. In China Kon-myun was worn by emperors from the Han to the Ching Dynastices. The researcher investigated Kon-myun es-pecially in the Ming Dynasty. The Kon-myun regulations as read in Tai-ming-hui-chan changed through all four periods. To study the faithfulness of practice to low Ding-ling the tomb of Emperor Shin-jong who ruled during a period of the Ming Dynasty was unearthed and the remains of the Emperor's Kon-myun were analyzed. The Kon-myun consisted of 12ryu-myuh 18chang-bok and there were other differences I color symbols and wearing method when compared to the regulations. It can be concluded that the Chinese Kon-myun tradition was not in strict adher-ence to the regulations established by law books. This is in contrast to the Korean Kon-myun tradition which showed little devi-ation. Further study is needed to understand why there was this difference in tradition and ritual.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.181-199
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• 1999

The industry of modern clothing has deviated from the overflow of commercialism and the standardization and nowadays is going toward pursuing art, creativity, and high added value. This trend brings the return of the natural materials from the synthetic textiles and increases the value of old and handmade fabrics. Finally, the handmade-paper, which is a natural material, comes to be reconsidered as a new material for the clothing. Therefore, as the natural materials and the manufacture of handmade clothing are rising again, the qualitative improvement and globalization of clothing industry should be first realized through the developments of creative and various clothing materials and new expressing techniques. The above investigation and study have been synthesized and analyzed as follows: First, through the study on the origin of the paper clothing, its historical background and the process of its development, we've learned these two facts following : the paper clothing of the East in the past mostly had practiced meanings. On the other hand, in the West it had meanings which were raised the artist's emotions and beauty-consciousness to the artistic level by the various kinds of expressing methods. Second, handmade-paper was manufactured by the embedding method, which mixed mulberry pulp, gauze, corn, hair, sisal, silk and so on. It was found that handmade-paper had the affluent and proper texture as the clothing material and was be able to control the clarity through the variation of thickness. It was also confirmed that the creative and original texture with hand-worked molding beauty was obtained by the use of handmade-paper. Third, when the handmade-paper is used, the molding beauty of plane, relievo, and solid can be freely pursued, and various and effective molding conformation can be constructed by the effect of superposition and repetition. Also, because the maximum discretion from the various optional manufacturing methods is allowed, the molding beauty can be maximized when the clothes are manufactured with handmade-paper. Fourth, the gauze with strong drape was combined to overcome the stiffness and the tearing of the paper. As a result, the durability and the wearability of the paper were strengthened and thus the thus the applications as the clothing material were enlarged. In conclusion, in order to enhance the value, creativity, practicality, and artistic sense of the design for modern clothing, the clothes made of handmade-paper should be more studied. Moreover, for the generalization of paper clothes, the studies on the development of practical paper with paper with water resistance, post-treatment after dyeing, flexibility, and durability should be done. I really hope that this study will be the motive to provoke the possibility of handmade-paper as new clothing material in not only practical sense but also artistic sense.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.13-24
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• 1981

The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. It is generally known to usthat the color yellow was controled in use both for the general public and in the royal palaces. However, in the later part of Chosun Dynasty, the color yellow was used not only for the king's costumes but also used for women's tops and for the linings of clothing. Especially, in some of the costumes that belonged to the later period of the Chosun Dynasty, we can still see lots of bright yellow tops. Also there are many green dyed official robes and various costumes for women. It is a true fact that people could not derive the color green from the plants as they did with yellow. The only way they could make the color green was to mix indigo and yellow together. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color. Those plants used to make the color yellow are ; Gardenia, Phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, Coptis, Safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. While synthetic dye causes pollution, natural coloring by plants is as safe and useful as the color itself is lovely. Yet it is tragic to know that this traditional culture of making beautiful natural colors was cut off. There is no way to know today the traditionally correct method to derive colors from the plants. Therefore, it is our aim and challenge to find out the original way to dye and develop it and preserve it as our non-polluted folk art. In regard to natural dyeing, we must say that is very difficult to prepare and preserve natural dyes. In the first place, people had to get the right plants at an appropriate time. Then they could not keep those plants too long. Finally, much depended upon the mordant as well as various conditions and dyeing procedures. All those things influenced greatly the quality of color, some times producing a very pretty color and other times a very dull one. It is very appropriate that the natural dye art should be recognized and appreciated anew by Korea since it provides satisfaction to historical and folk artistic demands as well as to those of fashion conscious modern society for high quality consumption items. We propose two stages of development. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to extract from the plants desirable dye which will enhance national culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.5
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• pp.113-134
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• 2001

This study was carried out with an objective to prepare the framework of conformity for the 21st century modern fashion, which is interactive with mankind, based on a position that the 21st century contemporary fashion with its amalgamating trend of diversified artistic forms may not be elucidated on a standpoint centering on one certain modality. The hybrid fashion trend of historical modality which provides freedom and satisfaction in creation of an individuals expressive power in expressing true desire of mans inside through man-centered thought of the times has made multifarious motives of the past and present fragmentary. It thus extracts inner divisions and the concept of consolidation through three-dimensional form. Modern fashion is newly interpreted by the material and details of high technologies. and is harmonized by mix and match with various expressions. By having it, it is being expressed together with many types of dresses and ornaments. Modern fashion is being expressed together with many types of dresses and ornaments by new interpretations with the material and details of high technologies and by being harmonized with mix and match with various expressions. The hybrid fashion design trend of regional elements formed by stimuli and contacts of diverse local culture by globalization of network that was achieved by scientific technologies of the contemporary information society has disintegrated varied boundaries in the conventional culture by the latest communication technology-new media on the basis of newly created culture. The fact that regional elements could be expressed as if they were interrelated without each being deprived of originality may be explained with an interpretation on pluralism. The hybrid fashion design trend of cultural aspect, which manifests in the background of scientific technological culture as it transcends the societal-cultural boundaries based on the de-centralization theory of Frederic Jameson, has supplemented the imperfect meanings through conversional correlation with other forms and internal program changes. The middle stratal and polyhedral characteristics are seen as each cultural element is dismantled and reassembled by application of 'multiple-time point expression'. Design forming method is not to bring destruction from outside, but to embrace instability and chaos through radical dismantling of the inside. and to pursue diversity and openness. Thus. it is implemented by an approach that takes the role of design process. In communication of discontinuity, continuity was dismantled through forms of mixing, overlap, perversion, insertion and coincidence.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.139-161
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• 2002

This study investigates the characteristics of Nordic sweaters works from a historical perspective. Specifically, this study deals with the following research topics: 1) development of Nordic sweaters, 2) the characteristics of Nordic sweaters industry according to the change of times, 3) the comparison of local knitting patterns, 4) the symbolic meaning of the designs in the Nordic sweaters and patterns. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1. Knitted work developed mostly in Northern Europe, a cold area, and the barren, mountainous coastal areas where people frequently used woolen materials for clothes. It was also developed in Scandinavian regions which lead the fashion in modern days. Scandinavian knitting techniques have been diffused into the east coast of England and Northern Europe by Vikings. 2. Scandinavian countries are distinguished from other countries by their conservative but creative cultural tradition. Their knitting patterns are characterized by small geometric figures such as dots, triangles, squares, rhombuses, and crosses used often with stars and roses. Scandinavian knitting is also salient for its vertical stripes and simple motifs repeating at short intervals. 1) Norway ; Simple and geometric Norwegian patterns are classified into three groups of motifs: (a) the motifs of cross, diamond, X, and swastika (equation omitted). (b) the motifs of human figures, animals and birds, (c) floral motifs (especially eight-petal roses). Their use of color is also simple, and is limited to more than two colors. (2) Sweden ; Swedish patterns are colorful and geometric. They are characterized by features such as brocade, complex embroidery, and contrast of red and black colors. They also show Guernsey patterns. Initials and production years were knitted in sweaters which have different patterns in their trunks and sleeves. 3) Denmark ; The Danish pattern is the purl stitch knitted against the stockinette stitch. The technique is used to copy woven damask motifs. The patterns are seen most clearly when they are knit with smooth yarn. The Faeroe sweaters are the representative work of Danish knitting. Faeroe knitting, incorporates stranded pattern and is knit in the round, either with circular needles. 4) Finland ; Finnish patterns are similar to Norwegian patterns. Finnish knitted work show very colorful, variety and free-flowing geometric patterns. 5) Iceland ; Icelandic knitting shows original ribbon pattern. Lope sweater is the representative work. 3. The traditional knitting patterns not only carried symbolic meanings but also served as means of communication. First of all, patterns had incantatory meanings. Patterns were symbolic of one's social standing, too. The colors, motifs and their arrangements were very important features symbolizing one's social position or family line. People often communicated by certain pieces of knitted work or patterns. In short, the knitted work in the Nordic sweaters served the function of admiring the beauty of nature and symbolizing various meanings. The unique designs and colors of the knitted work reflected the characteristics of the culture those works belonged to. This study also turns our attention to the issue of how the traditional colors and designs of the knitted work can contribute to the development of modern designs, and by doing so, if makes us realize the importance of knitted works in modern society.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.977-990
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• 2010

Today, as individuals show their social identities and reflect their being as the members of society with a culture, an art style and communication function are stood out in fashion photographs. Accordingly, the meanings of images into text are expanded in its interpretative width through the acceptor's various terms. This researcher looked into four theories of both positions on the textuality of language and image, and considered the point of discussion on image of each theory through modern fashion photographs. First, the theory which divides language and image as auditory and visual recognitions in the textuality of language and image is limited from the view it focuses on only one side without considering the ambivalent elements of each field. For the textuality in modern fashion photographs, the observer attempts to turn it into text to give meaning to it as the recognition through five senses conforming to the acceptor's condition. Second, the theory dividing language and image into the text of time properties and spacial properties has limitation in the text, for acceptor's experience of the object appears as the structured form in time and space rather than being defined as two things like time and space. Third, the theory classifying the language and image text into conventional taste and natural taste has limitation from the view that image text is hardly an object of consistent classification in ease of recognition by the code accepted in society. Thus, this can't be fundamental approach for the understanding of the text of decoding trend represented in modern fashion photographs. Fourth, accordingly, this researcher focussed on contextual and arbitrary text of fashion photographs through the theory of Nelson Goodman which discusses image text through the differences in textuality. Basic mechanism of perceiving and recognizing and distinguish image is closely related to habit and custom like language. So, each acceptor perceives the image as a text through arbitrary interpretation obtained by individual, empirical, historical, and educational viewpoints. The textuality of modern fashion photographs aims to widen the range of diverse knowledge and understanding, transcending the regulations of simple function of existing fashion photographs. Consequently, this researcher puts forward the opinion of consistent and diverse follow-up studies on instilling meaning into fashion photographs for the understanding de-regulatory and de-constructive through various senses by avoiding only one sense-dependent fixed and regulatory properties of it.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.2
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• pp.101-115
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• 2017

Ancient documents, characters, and relics are the utmost important materials when it comes to researching ancient clothing. Of these, the ancient characters explain the contents of the time, which makes it an objective historical record. China has hieroglyphics, such as oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script, which existed in Sang[Eun] Ju era. This character is formed by a simple line and detailed drawing, showing the object or the concrete form and characteristics, so the reader can understand the meaning. Oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script, which are written in pictograph, include contents that help to grasp the original shape and form of ancient official hats. Chinese characters Geon(巾, 건) Byun(㝸, 변) Myun(免, 면) Mo(冒, 모) Ju(冑, 주) and Kwan(冠, 관), which are the names of the official hats, have been researched, and Mi(美, 미) Ryung(令, 령) Wang(王, 왕) and Hwang(皇, 황), which are the characters related to the official hats, have been studied. Geon(巾, 건) switched its form from shape of material around waist to wraping wearer's head. Byun(㝸, 변) is a hat with decoration, and Myun(免, 면) is in form of a helmet with ornaments. Mo(冒, 모) in bone script looks like a hat with decorations on each sides, but in bronzeware script, it is more like a simple round hat Ju(冑, 주) covers one's head and has decorated ornaments, and The Kwan(冠, 관), which is now a common name of official hats, is not shown in oracle bone inscription or bronzeware script, It might have been used later than the other two types of hats. As for the related Chinese characters, Mi(美, 미) is in the shape of a feather decoration, Ryung(令, 령) is similar in shape to the letter 'A', and Wang(王, 왕) is in shape of simple hat from 령 with decorations. Hwang(皇, 황) is like a Wang(王, 왕) hat, but with fancier decorations. Oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script show the original form and shape of ancient hats.