• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.2039-2050
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• 2010

This study examines Queen Marie Antoinette's costumes in her portraits according to symbolic meanings and analyzes the expressive effects of Queen Marie Antoinette's costumes in the movies. The symbolic meanings through the costumes of Marie Antoinette expressed in the portraits shows the strong historical power of France in Europe along with the majestic appearance of the queen. A new perception of Marie Antoinette's taste can be found as she wore simple robe $\`{a}$ la l$\'{e}$vite in addition to extravagant costumes that demonstrated convention and position. The benevolent, extravagant, and splendid side of Marie Antoinette in history was emphasized; however, it also emphasized that she was a fashion leader with adventurous thinking and a liberal mind who accepted new things that transcend the era through this costume. The results of studying the expressive effects of Marie Antoinette's costumes as presented in the movies through the formative analysis of DeLong are as follows. The costumes expressed like this were observed through definer and the priority of observation, and it could be classified and analyzed in 4 expressive effects of excitement, calmness, strength, and delicacy; in addition, it induced the visual maximization according to the flow of the movie. After the study analyzed movies about the queen through four expressive effects, the costumes were shown as excitement, calmness, strength, and delicacy according to the flow of play.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.18-35
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• 2008

As an essential factor of plasticity in fashion, color reflects socio-cultural trends and has possessed different symbolism in its historical development. This study aims to search for an academic approach towards finding out how the concepts and symbolism of the color white were expressed in actual clothing. This will be realized through the investigation of the various meanings this particular color possesses. The secondary purpose of this study is to give shape to the results of above said academic investigation by proposing their integration into actual fashion design. The methodology employed in this study and results are as follows. First, the symbolism of the color white abstracted from the research of literature on this subject was classified into six categories; purity, grace, abstinence, sublimity, decorativeness, and avant-garde. Second, for empirical research, six designs were developed and produced into white dresses. The development of these dress designs was realized by presenting the symbolism of the aforementioned six categories into images, and the formative constructions of these images by applying various design details, expressive techniques, and characteristics of the materials. Through an investigation into the color white, which has been excluded from previous chromatics research as a major color, integration of the symbolism and chromatic image of this color into the actual fashion design process is made possible. The significance of this study is in that it proposes multifarious possibilities in fashion design, and also in extending the horizon of chromatics research in fashion through the realization of the above process.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.1 s.66
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• pp.68-80
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• 2007

Surrealism's method of expression and inspiration has been a continuous influence on fashion. What is important is how to identify and research a source of inspiration, and how to use this inspiration to guide the designs that can be worn on a real human body. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to show how to develop ideas and designs from Surrealist objects and how to contribute to the development of designs to the diversity in visual and functional effects along with the changes in consumer's interest. Documentary studies about Surrealism and Surrealist-inflected fashion applying the works of Surrealist and fashion images as a tool of historical research were proceeded. And the ideas for theme, the motifs for print patterns, and the concept of designs were borrowed from Surrealist objects touching on the imagery between the real and reflected, optical and artificial, and the designs were developed with several different visual and functional effects changing color, pattern, size, and length with the function of zippers in each item. It also gives the person wearing it amusement because it includes the concept of play and D.I.Y. With effective planning, it is possible to attract consumer's interest in the market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.27
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• pp.5-16
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• 1996

In today's fashion Street is a birthplace of new generation fashion and Street Fashion have frequently influenced on high fashion. From this view point this study is a meaningful approach to forecast future fashion trend by examining the street style of youth who are regarded as Street Fashion leaders. The purpose of this study is to examine the Youth Fashion style in early 1990s and to pro-vide a reference to fashion designer and mer-chandiser in trend forecasting and product plan-ning. This study is focused on 1990s Youth Fashion style through the historical Street Fashion : 1950s Teddy boys & Mods 1960s Hippies & Skinhead and 1970s Punk. There were mainly two popular Street Fashion phenomena in early 1990s. There were mainly two popular Street Fashion phenomena in early 1990s. One is grunge fashion created by new gener-ation in opposition to existing generation society and impacting on hish fashion leaders. The other is Remix style that is mixed : sub culture fashion originated by young group in 1950-1970s with 1990s sensitivity. Both fashion styles origionated and led by youth of street have influenced on famous high fashion designeres as well as the general public. Street Fashion will continue to play an import-ant role in future fashion and more study and interest on Street Fashion should be taken by fashion forecaster and related.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.89-102
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• 2010

Atayal studied in this paper is one of the indigenous tribe in Taiwan, which is receiving considerable publicity gradually. Atayal has a quite unique traditional dress and custom as facial tattoo. The study was limited to the conventional culture of body adornment of the Atayal including the clothing which is less preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are just a little included in the scope of the present study. Through this study, we can get know about indigenous tribe's cultural background, such as their life, custom, religion, and the influences on traditional costumes. As for the research method, I examined the Atayal's traditional costumes and clothing through related books, magazine, research papers, internet sites, and etc. I also examined the common ground between facial tattoo patterns and their clothing using reference books and official web-site. Traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of facial tattoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Atayal. In way, I hope this study will make a contribution to the field of Korean fashion industry which intends to enter Taiwan market.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.109-121
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• 2018

Recently, it is one of the popular fashion and cultural events that people of the younger generation put on a hanbok and take a picture together with communicating by SNS. For this reason, the rent-hanbok market takes a big part of the Korean traditional costume market. Therefor, the recognition of hanbok is changed from the style of uncomfortable and ceremonial clothes, to becoming popular as everyday dress in the younger generation. The various designs of the rental hanbok show two different opinions. One is the increasing popular and general public interest and demand for wearing and showing off traditional hanbok fashions in a positive outlook. Another is the case of the wrong stereotype and knowledge for traditional costume which results in a negative outlook for this type of fashion statement. This study is to look into renting hanbok jeogori for women in Seoul and in Junju. There are 39 styles available in joegori. That being noted, the traditional jeogori has seop and git with dongjung. But it is seen that rental jeogoris do not have the seop, or have the dongjung position as similar to the Po as seen on the men's coat. The showy and colorful materials feel bad and are poorly ventilated. And excessive price competition causes a decreased quality of renting hanbok. Now the rental hanbok business needs to change; to have to make renting hanbok with the correct historical understanding, and it is necessary to have to stop the indiscriminate acceptance of foreign culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.412-424
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• 2015

The purpose of this study was to analyze the meaning of soul fashion in American pop culture. This study was conducted using a literature research method based on the prior theses, journals and relevant books. Soul as a concept, originated in African-American communities and evolved from the ideology of Black Power, which prompted Black Nationalism. Soul fashion, which took on two styles in African American culture began to embody black resistance and community pride in the late 20th century. One of these, hip-hop style represented the message of resistance and a sense of beauty outside the mainstream. The other, African-inspired fashion, which utilized a look inspired by African tradition, rejected white supremacy by expressing a proud dignity. As a result, the meaning of "soul" in soul fashion represented by American pop culture resulted in contrasting appearance due to different elements. First, one of its meanings is ironic and sarcastic, and it expressed historical trauma, cultural stereotypes, self-hatred, and self-degradation and, the self-mutilation of African-American by cynically distorting their silhouettes and, using modified materials and patterns, fantastic colors, and extraordinary accessories. Second, the other meanings is the pride and dignity of Black Power, which visualized the concentration of ideas implied by the tradition of African-American, through soul fashion by using fierce traditional of African costumes, unique patterns and accessories.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.234-245
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• 2013

The modern fashion was developed the basis on the western dress structure and its historical flow was continued until today. Particularly, the Britain has coexised the unique cultural identity in the aristocratic high culture and rebellious tendency of the subculture so it is necessary to the consideration about whole culture in order to grasp the British fashion identity. The purpose of this study was shown the methodological framework of the culture identity research of one country through the background of this formation of culture and process high culture and subculture study by analysis the culture identity in the today's Britain. Also, the purpose of this study that it draws whether the feature of the British fashion shows up as any aspect in this culture identity. The range of this study subdivides and considers with the imperialism, industrial revolution, aristocratism, union nations, and geographical aspect as the island country into the economy, politics, society, and natural characteristic about the Englishness and the notion of British culture then it draws the dichotomy of the British fashion through the culture identity formed in this society cultural background with both sides in the high culture and subculture aspect.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.1 s.91
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• pp.101-112
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• 2005

One of the curiosities harbored most by anthropologists may be why women are so different from men physically. One of such differences must be the breast. Female animals do not have such a swollen breast even when they nurse their young. We can find many Western garments highlighting the breast, but in Korea the tradition has been that the breast should not be highlighted. It was because the large breast was deemed useful that Western people appreciated it highly. In general, it is conceived that to ancient Westerners' eyes, the nursing function of the breast was very mysterious, because the food supplies were insufficient. Although the size of a breast does not affect its nursing function, Westerners may have thought that it did. To the contrary, in the societies with rich agricultural products, the breast was not much emphasized as the reproductive organs. Since people are more and more concerned about their body and the breast or one of the body parts characterizing the femininity is regarded as an important element of design, it may well be significant to research into the breast designs for development of the fashion design. With such basic conceptions in mind, this study was aimed at reviewing the artworks featuring women's breast and their historical background and thereupon, analyzing the aesthetic values of the breast-featuring designs by dividing them into four categories in large.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.1 s.91
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• pp.1-12
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• 2005

The modern society which is going through the big turbulence of civilization experiences the lost of humanity and the phenomenon that the standard of our thoughts, like those for good and evil, truth and false is not clear anymore as the technology is being improved. This makes us miss the past when everything is simple and the standards are very clear and being attracted by the metaphorical culture symbolizing something from the past, like memories of youth, fantasies, fairy tales or myths and we are now having a great interest in the joy of life and the affluent life. Influenced by this kind of tendency in modern society, the minimalism, which had the great influence in the nineties, went out of fashion and at last the romantic susceptibility seems to be the trend forming the major mood of the late 20th century - the early 21st century. This study focus is: (1) the theoretical aspects of romantic images such as the concept, the historical tendency and the character are considered. (2) the variety and multiplicity of the romantic images is discussed after the romantic image is classified into four types of retro character, natural character, ethnic character, erotic character according to major trends in our modern. The purpose of this study is to understand the romantic images in modern fashion, by analyzing the fashion trends together with the various features of romantic images.