• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.105-120
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• 2006

Today's radical change of environment and technology spreaded high-technology art by cutting across a general idea of art, expressed machine aesthetic in fashion style by influencing materials and production processes of fashion. The purpose of this research is to take another look at the value and the importance of ornaments in terms of fashion design, to overcome the negative aspect of Technology Fashion by designing Retro Technology Fashion that harmonizes reason with sensibilities through floral patterns. The results of this study are as followings. 1. If Retro technology Fashion was analyzed by time and space element that are postmodernism techniques, there are Ethnic Technology Fashion that are based on space and historical Technology Fashion that are based on time. In terms of spare element, there is the hybrid of revival of exotic folklore with Technology fashion. In terms of time element, there is the hybrid of costumes of before 20th Century with Technology Fashion. It means unifying detail or silhouette of costumes of ancient time to modern time wit Technology Fashion. For another time element, the hybrid of retro fashion after 20th Century with Technology Fashion. The retro nostalgia is revived by the floral patterns or silhouette of Hippie fashion unified with Technology Fashion. 2. Based on above research, Retro Technology Fashion with floral pattern on CAD were designed. As the results, for Ethno Fashion that is spatial retro, 'Asian Technology fashion' was designed with bright colors, China collar that are oriental, and vinyl material. For historical Technology fashion that are based on time, 'Space Middle Age' was designed with tight silhouette, party colored pants and plastic material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.53-64
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the historical changes of western men's underclothes in the first half of the 20C and analyze functions and features of men's underclothes. This study was to utilize many literatures in the analysis of historical changes of western men's underclothes. In the 1900's, the attached collar was giving place to the detachable, and the coloured shirt for day wear was becoming accepted. The correct wear fur various occasions was given. Double collar was the favourite for day wear. The dress-shirt protector worn over the dress-shirt front. Men preferred to vest and pants in one as a combined garment. In the 1910's, underclothes were permitting freer movement, but what was still more significant was the glowing inclination to reduce the layers which covered the body. The new conception of decency which was beginning to appear continued to characterize underclothing the symbols of social rank, expect for formal occasion, were declining. For day the white shirt was being displaced by the soft-fronted shirt. In the 1927-1930's, Underclothes were reduced in number, extent and thickness. Underclothing had lost two of its original function : it no longer preserved the warmth of the body, nor did it disguise its essential shape. Both sexes discarded the use of white underwear, In the 1930's, men saw an increasing preference for the coloured shirt. Combinations became increasingly popular and the singlet were displacing the under-vest in the 1930's. All undergarments were very commonly in natural colours. In the 1940's, for evening dress. shirt was plain linen front and square cuffs. Short trunks reached to mid-thigh, had a front waist yoke with three button fastening. Underclothes were pursued ease and activity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.99-123
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present the study method in order to analysis the fashion phenomena in ppular culture by popular culture theory. The method of this study is showed the method fo fashion culture, after it was examined that the trends of popular cultural method, the type of Korean popular culture discussion, and the relationship of fashion and popular culture. The results of this study are following as ; 1. Analysis of this study are structuralism stand and culturalism stand, and the application of criticism about the cultural technology in a new stand by means of the composition of Gramscic, A and Foucault. 2. Application of the ethnographic access method as anthroppological approach method about C. Geertz'culture. This si to describe and interpret the practice of subject through directive observation and conduct on a spot, thus is likely to be useful in the fashion study. 3. It needs a historical access method for that purpose, If it applicate Weber's methodology, it will have the use of both meaning interpretation and explanation of cause and effect on the use of both meaning interpretation and explanation of cause and effect on the basis of realistic conditions (historical data), and would appear that the peculiar apportunity of mental (cultural) progressional process became definitive explanation. 4. It must be mad up of the discussion (which is) based on the durability of tradition and culture. It is undeniable that the discussion, which related to popular culture up to the present, showed the disconnectedness of the past tradition and culture, and naturally accepts it's connection to epistemology. The cultural study is a theory interested in what it brings about, what way it's organized and what way it's used. The research of the fashion's connection to popular culture is composed of such topic ; how fashion is produces, how it is consumed, and then, the proposition which is concerned in what meaning it produce is made up of. The regulation of the realm of this research will be to help a researcher explain where to begin and how to do it. Although this cultural study method is more or less quantitative, or despite the expense of the accuracy of statistical analysis, this means that such method of cultural research needs to give attention to both aspects of phenomena and basic problems.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.9
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• pp.84-96
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• 2011

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in Cambridge. The Museum holds a total of eleven items of koran dresses that were donated by two anthropologists in the first half of the twentieth century. Male dresses consist of a white cotton jacket (Jeogori), a under-vest (Deungbaeja) made of light wisteria rings, a headband (Manggeon) made of horsehair, a broad brimmed top hat (Gat) made of black horsehair gauze, an oilskin cover (Galmo) drawn over the hat in wet weather, and a hemispherical hat box (Gatjib). Female dresses comprise a pink silk jacket (Jeogori), a blue silk skirt (Chima) with pleats, a pair of woman's white cotton trousers (Sokgot), a black silk cap (Jobawi) decorated with pink tassels and imitation pearls, and a pair of green and magenta silk shoes (Danghye) with leather soles and metal rivets. Theses Korean dresses show what the western anthropologists had interests in. When collectors collect the folk objects, they thought much of the specificity of shape and material, the esthetic appreciation, and the representation of daily life. In terms of the value as the historical materials in the history of Korean dress, the under-vest of wisteria, the hat box, and the female dresses are worth paying attention to. The under-vest is one that was produced in earlier time among the remaining under-vests. The hat box represents that the hat belonged to the merchant classes. The female dress items show daily dresses worn by women of higher classes of the society in the 1920s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.166-177
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• 2008

This is a basic study of the remaining armors and helmets of the Joseon period for our better understanding and better maintenance of them. For the purpose, this paper shall try to show the present situations of the remaining armor and helmets of the period in Korea, and their typical classification for periodization, and the nomenclature about them. First, to oversee the present situations of the remaining armor and helmets of the period, study was done about the kinds of armors and helmets, their users, and their possessors today. It was found that the exact dates and users were unclear for many cases of the armors and helmets under our consideration. It is understandable when we consider many of them were exported to foreign countries, instead of being well-preserved in Korea upon excavations. Secondly, for their typical classifications for periodization, types were delineated from the pictures and drawings in reference to the periodical changes of them from Korean historical records. The result was that we can find out 4 types of armors, and 3 types of helmets, with their combinations. This shall be usefully applied for the better periodization of the remaining items. Thirdly, we come to the problem of naming of the remaining armors and helmets. For better nomenclature of the remains all the names of the armors and helmets for the Joseon period are collected from historical literature, to figure out some principles of nomenclature for them. I found some discrepancies with the present names of them, and my propositions are suggested to replace them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.11-23
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• 2003

Japonese woodblock printing has been accepted with a great curiosity at first, and it has been called as 'Japonisme' or 'Japonaiserie' in which the school of Impressionism accepted the Japanese type of art and developed it in Europe. The term of Japonisme is the concept that does not refer to one style but to the taste for Japanese painting, craft, fashion and the like in Europe proved as the historical phenomenon through Japanese works. That is, it means every Japanese disposition including all artistic techniques and contents relating to Japanese tastes in Europe. Fashion of dress as Japanese expressed in European painting works not only symbolizes the 'modernity' expressive of the aspiration and nostalgia for Japan but presents the Japan of exotic taste as the inquisitive object of sexual interest. And the expressive method of the peculiar the beauty of the body was described in Japanese painting works because of the fashion characteristics that the frontal side of Japanese clothing was presented in a more decorative and formative way than its reverse side due to decorative design and belts. It could be found that this was introduced actively into the painting works of the impressionist school. This study attempts to discuss the expressive style including the pictorial style, technique and theme shown in the accommodating process of Japanese painting in the Impressionistic school and investigate the phenomenon of Japonisme that was conducted in the western Europe. Accordingly, this study attempts to find out that clothing takes an important place as the aesthetic category of one historical point in time by investigating the Japanese clothing of the times shown in impressionist painting works and that clothing forms the stylistic characteristics and formative characteristics of painting. It could be found that dress existed not only as the instrument capable of illustrating the aesthetic attitude or will of the human being as visual identity but as plastic art and became the prime mover for reinterpreting and changing the plastic style of art frontier.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.126-142
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• 2007

The second part of this study is to typify plural sexuality articulated with fashion images in men's and women's popular fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and ultimately to infer sexual ideology codified in modern fashion by a framework of this study, the socio-semiotic model. From this, sexuality represented in modern fashion was typified as follows: in women's fashion Traditional Femininity, Glamor Femininity, Androgynous Femininity, Babydoll Femininity and Genderless sexuality, while in men's fashion Traditional Masculinity, Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity and Genderless sexuality. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, modern fashion has been changed from a means expressing gender and class into a sign vehicle representing the new ruling system of age and sexual desire. The binary oppositional sexuality on center of man in the 19 C capitalist period has been gradually pluralized towards the post-capitalist period. Next, mainstream society in Korea is still positioned in the traditional heterosexuality, keeping the vertical power relationship between man and woman even in the post-modern period. However, the fact that both Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity acquire the position of dominant femininity connotes the change of modern femininity. Finally, plural sexuality represented in modern fashion has family resemblance and it shows contextual flexibility within contemporary period as well as a historical context. As a result, sexuality floats with a specific historical and socio-cultural context, and fashion as a material culture represents a masquerade as a identity vehicle, which constructs and de-constructs sexuality at the same time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.1-15
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• 2010

A Korean knot is one of the ornamental elements that our ancestors used intimately in their daily lives, and the diverse forms and structural features of the Korean knot have sufficient creative and aesthetic value for it to be recognized as one of beautiful products that was relished by individuals of the times. Starting from two strands, Korean knots make unique forms as they are overlapped or plaited, crossing each other in many ways. The forms of Korean knots were given names such as "nabi maedeup"(butterfly knots) and "gukwa maedeup" (chrysanthemum knots), in reference to things in the surrounding environment that were perceived as being similar in their appearance. It is considered that with their unique structure, such Korean knots may provide a good motif for creative design. As well, it is believed that combining the traditional beauty of Korean knots with a contemporary sensibility will lead to the creation of truly forward-looking design. Against this backdrop, this study aims to inquire into and analyze the formative characteristics and aesthetics of Korean knots, with an eye to their use in future design. In addition, it aims to help to put such historical knotting practices into practical and functional use in the future, through a study of previous uses of historical knotting practices with a modern sensibility. It is thus expected that this work will contribute to the inheriting and development of traditional culture, and ultimately to enhancing the status of Korean design in the world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.117-134
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• 2010

The multilateral attempt for present applications of art school of thought and expression is leading modern fashion as a chapter of various artistic expression. In fashion, historic art thinking which predominated the period are source of optional inspiration not simply being generated, culminated and disappear but layout principles which can reemerge as periodical needs. In other words, the past styles are the source of inspiration of new trend of the present time and will serve as the text that give birth to yet another trend. In this study, I conducted the research on the layout principles of Modernism Architecture in aspects of pure visibility and the layout characteristics. And I analyzed cases of modern fashion which were appling architectural layout principles in the view point of formal construction dimension. As the result, the layout principles of Modernism Architecture have the characteristics of diagram linearity, geometric planarity and exclusive closing. And I was applying the architectural layout principles of Modernism to fashion. The layout principles of Modernism Architecture have the tendency of lacking history types, abstract plane partition and reductionism purity in fashion. The meaning of this study is follows: The characteristics of art school of thought are given shape by appling & analysing the architectural layout principles of historical art school of thought to modern fashion in the view point of formal construction dimension. The applied possibility of historical art school of thought as the source of inspiration about the fashion design is extended.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.16-27
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to identify the structure and characteristics for the reproduction of the armor in the Unified Silla period, and then reproduce and utilize it as a cultural content. In the armor reproduction project excavated from Jaemaejeong, Gyeongju. Jaemaejeong armor is consisting of Singap (身甲, body armor), Sanggap (裳甲, hip armor), and Sangbakgap (上膊甲, upper arm armor) at the time of excavation. Unlike the armor of the Three Kingdoms period, Singap and Sanggap are separated. Singap is Yangdangsik (裲襠式, side opening method) and Gyunggap (頸甲, gorget) was not unearthed, Sangbakgap was divided into a part that protects the left and right upper arms and a part that protects the chest, so that the unexcavated head and neck cover of the helmet can be protected to the shoulder. In addition, in the case of Chalgap (札甲, lamellar armor), the Oejungsik (外重式, folded from outside to inside) is mainly used, but it is peculiar that Naejungsik (內重式, folded from inside to outside) is used in Sangbakgap of Jaemaejeong armor. It is presumed that this was used as a method to ensure that the armor were closely attached to the human body. In order to design with the parade armor of Gochwidae in Gyeongju based on the reproduced Jaemaejeong armor, the designer's imagination and historical work of the times were involved due to the characteristics of performance costumes. Reproduced armor as a cultural content should be considered indispensable to simplify and lighten clothing suitable for performances based on the excavated historical armor.