• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.7
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• pp.1111-1125
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• 2010

Study is a basic analysis of a future virtual clothing system based on a comparative analysis of all the shirring, using a 3-dimensional apparel cad system. Frilled skirts shirred at the lower hemline were the subject of this study for a comparison of expression and shape of shirring. It compared the silhouette and details expressed in virtual and real skirts made of woolen fabrics and polyester satin, with different widths (1.5, 2 and 2.5 widths). It was found that the virtual skirt could not express shirring as exquisitely as the real skirt due to fabric thickness and other fabric characteristics. In addition, the increase in widths caused the frill shape to deform badly. In the case of a virtual skirt made of polyester satin, the increased multiplication factor let the frill spread out sharply (unlike the real skirt). Simulated skirts of polyester satin and woolen spread out to the sides with the sidelines of their frills hanging down markedly (unlike the real cloths) when the frills changed from 1.5 widths to 2 widths. When it came to the virtual skirt, side-line from the hip down all the way short of frill contorted with the wrinkle multiplication factor of 2 and 2.5 widths. This phenomenon was more notable in polyester satin skirts than in woolen skirts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.102-120
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• 2005

Three Jang-Ue's and eleven drapery were investigated in the excavated costume in Ue-Ryeong, Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do. Three Jang-Ue's have three different colors. the length, the width, and the wide of quilting are different as well. The outer collar of a coat is a double collar while the inturned collar is a single collar. In case of Dark blue and Pink Jang-Ue. The large section of cloth forming the body of a Korean coat is getting narrower while the reinforcing cloth strip is getting wider as the time is passing by. All the three Jang-Ue's have the different handling methods of a attached to the top border of a Korean coat, and Pink Jang-Ue doesn't have a attached to the tip border of a Korean coat. The handling method of the hemline are all different. And the handling method of the cuffs are all different. The silk is main in the woven goods, partly hemp, mixed fabrics and cotton. Especially complex gauze with supplementary wefts that were found unusually in Cho-Sun Dynasty are very import to study the complex gauze. The fond relics of the Jeon-Ui Lee family reveal various formational methods and specific characters of the excavated costume. There fore these that bring the Jang-Ue shape and the textile's feature in Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do region, from 16th to 17th are very valuable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.7
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• pp.1173-1183
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• 1997

In order to flatter the figures of average middle aged women by determining harmonious proportions for their costume forms, this study evaluates effects of varying design details of jackets(coats) with blouses and slacks using a ranking test and paired comparisons test. The result from clothing design C-2 which has the best design effect were as follows; 1. In order to look taller, the jacket(coats) is divided vertical long line and it has the emphasis point close to the face. 2. In order to make shoulder width look wider, armhole seam line attached 1-2 cm from the shoulder point. 3. In order to make chest width look slimmer, division was made up of a tailored collar with a deep V-neckline. 4. In order to make waist circumference look slimmer, the jacket has more fitted waist line than loosed it and tailored collar with a deep V-neckline. 5. In the case of the division of upper and lower garments, when the division was closer to the golden section, i.e., when the jacket hemline is hipline and slacks length is the heel excluded length of shoe heels, the overall appearance was better. 6. The V-neckline looked better, when it was cut along a long acute angle to the waist line. Because of dividing along above factors 1-6 i.e., clothing design C-2 was overall harmonious. Appropriate division of costume forms made for an aesthetic composition, which flattered the body types of middle aged women and presented harmonious, beautiful costume design effects. It made the women look taller, slim and balanced, and highlighted middle aged women's sense of beauty.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.55-72
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is for consideration of the flapper fashion (1924-1928) in Jazz Age (1919-1929) of America and the influences of it on modern fashion. This study is started from the latest fashion trend which is pursuing it's inspiration into the Jazz Age, the 20s. The etimology of 'flapper' was based on mines is 'flap' such as 'flutter of skirt hemline', 'hands', 'arms', 'wings' and a slang which was applied to young women from 1830. In 20th century it has meant not only new American women but also their fashion and attitude. The designs of flapper fashion were expressed by simplicity, functionality, nudity and rhythm. Simplicity was the best value of this time and the simple image was considered the smartest. Functionality was represented by straight boyish style and loose baggy silhouette that was related to free dome. Nudity was expressed by revealing of legs, arms, backs in shapes and see-through by materials. It was related to sexual attraction and point to youth. Rhythm of flapper fashion expressed optical effect of movement. Using of light material was deep related to freedom of flappers, speed, rhythmical Jazz and dancing. The influences of flapper fashion were giving an opportunity that changed fashion leader from high class to young popular group and simple design of flapper fashion effected to modernization and popularization of American apparel business. And it influenced American casual fashion which was known as brightness, youth and openhearted mood. So flapper fashion can be reganded as the starting point of the street fashion of the 20th century.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.28-41
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• 1986

In the history of costume, coat can be traced up to ancient Persia but it was generalized as today's style around 14th an d15th century in Euro[pe. World wars, revolutions and rapid social changes of the last 80 years have produced more changes in the way people dress than any comparable period in history. Thewse changes enabled emergence of more modernized woman's garments and through it, dress and coat ensemble became public's main fashion. In 1920's after world war I, boyish style in woman's garment was in vogue. Woman's coat was also in the same style with length sortened up to the knee level and silhoutte was straighter and semi-fitted than previous period. Length of the coat was longer in late 1930's but shortened again in 1940's. And the most popular silhouette of both 30's and 40's was shape of the hourglass which was commonly called the "X-shape". Also double=breasted coat with fitted waistline, belt and flare skirt was in vogue. In 1950's and 60's, with the variety of lines in woman's garments, silhouette of the coat also appeared in many different forms. Along with the various shapes, color of the coat changed throughout the decades : dark colors in 20's, bright colors in 30's, mixed colors of 20's and 30's in 40's and in 50's, color had changed to archromatic. In fabric, wool was most popular in all periods. However, such gabrics as tweed, cotton, gaberdine, linen were added to give variety. It is very interesting to see collars trimmed with expensive furs were very popular in 20's and 30's but it almost disappeared in 40's and fur trimming reappeared in late 50's. In addtion to silhouette changes in design, details such as buttons, epaulettes, pockets and fur trimming of hemline were emphasizing points of varieties in design. This study has set time limits world war I which was the period coat became major fashion of woman's clothing, to 1960's.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.71-89
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to design posture braces for rounded shoulders by examining characteristics of incorrect postures of rounded shoulders. The review of information in literature on rounded shoulder postures, correction exercise methods, and posture correction devices, has prompted this study to determine the design and material of a proper posture brace for rounded shoulders. In order to develop the pattern of a posture brace for rounded shoulders for women, the study carried out a comfort evaluation of the braces based on the 2D patterns through drafting method by utilizing the body measurements and relational formulae associated with the major body measurement such as bust circumference and on the 3D patterns of the brace which were obtained from 3D human model of women in their early 20s in Korea. Differences in angles were noted when 2D and 3D patterns of shoulder posture braces were compared. The side neck point was relocated farther outside in the 3D pattern to allow additional flexibility in the back-neck area, and the shoulder band was lowered by 14.8°, increasing armhole area comfort. The upper hemline of the front panel was found to rotate upward at an angle of 22.0° as the underarm point of the 3D pattern moved upwards than the underarm point of the 2D pattern, which enhanced comfort in the abdomen area. The 3D designs of shoulder posture brace was preferred in this study, as they significantly improved comfort while conducting fit evaluation compared to the 2D patterns of shoulder posture brace.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.50-65
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• 2022

The aim of this study was to provide data to enable the development of skateboarding pants. From the Chinese skateboard club SNS, 126 skateboarders in their 20s and 30s were chosen to participate in a survey. Data was gathered using a questionnaire from May 14 to May 28, 2021, and then analyzed using SPSS 23. The results concerning production were as follows: clothing sizes are generally divided into six stages: XS, S, M, L, XL, and 2XL. The silhouette is wide, and most pants have e-bands and normal hems. The pants are made from cotton-blend fabric, which is mostly moisture-absorbing and quick-drying. Baggy pants are preferred by skateboarders, with cotton being the most common fabric. The crotch, knees, and buttocks of pants are the least satisfying for skateboarders. When they skateboard, their ankles sustain the most injuries, followed by their knees and wrists. In the survey of consumers' preferences for skateboarding pants, different styles were rated in the following order: straight pant silhouette, ribbed knit and string waistband design; full-rise waist height, string hemline design; and ankle-high pants length (fit), fabric and design. The hygroscopicity and ventilation of the fabric are crucial considerations when purchasing pants. In terms of color, chromatic and pastel colors are most popular. In addition, some people expect new fibers to be used and expect protective equipment and pants to be integrated.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.73-88
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• 1999

To find the reasonable gathering amount by a length of gathered skirt and a fabric the methods of this study were divided on three types-five kinds of the gathering amounts three kinds of fabrics and three kinds of skirt length-so forty five kinds of the samples were made. As the visual evaluation and the shape of hemlines evaluation of the gathered skirt were practiced by these factors this study found the aesthetical gathering amount and analyzed the shape of hemlines. The following are the results of this research. 1. In the same fabric and skirt length to estimate a hemlines shape of a gathered skirt the increased amount of the node number of cotton fabric was widest and wool fabric was most stable And when the gathering amounts of each fabric were higher than 1.5 times the node indexes were no difference. According as a skirt length was longer the node indexes assumed a similar aspects but according as the skirt length was shorten an the gathering amount was smaller the node shapes were level and broad. And according to being increased a gathering amount the width of right and left of gathered skirt was generally wider. 2. In the same gathering amount and skirt length in seeing the estimation of a hemlines shape of a gathered skirt when the skirt length was 40cm in cotton polyester wool fabrics the node indexes were similar at up to 1.5 times of gathering amount and especially it became very bigger at 0.5 times and according as the gathering amount was increased node index became gradually smaller. The width of right and left of the skirt hemlines of wool fabric was more smaller than polyester and cotton fabrics so it is happen to hang down. 3. In the same gathering amount and fabric in seeing the estimation of a hemlines shape as a variation of a skirt length when the gathering amount of cotton and polyester was from up to 1.5 times and wood fabric was from up to 1.0 times according as skirt length was longer node index in the same gathering amount was decreased. And in case as it was 0.5 times the node indexes of the 40cm and 60cm skirt length were bigger than other factors. In the same gathering amount the width of right and left of the skirt hemlines was smaller at 60cm skirt length and polyester fabric was smaller at 80cm skirt length.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.13
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• pp.21-37
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• 1989

In May 1987, 11 clay icons and other stone products were excavated in an abandoned ancient tomb which was located in 541-1 Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju. 6 clay figures of them were depicted realistically man's features and postures, costume at that time that they gave a lot of significance to the fields of Korean Costume's Academic Society. The main purpose of this thesis is to study the background of costume history when it was made and its formal characteristics with the study of those 6 clay figures. Shilla accepted the customs and attires of Sui and T'ang by means of frequent in coming and out going Chinese envoy as well as Shilla's envoy, monks, hostages, and students in China. From that period, the diversity of Shilla's costume began to develop by introducing Tang's style into Shilla's costume. Crested hat of men's clothing of the clay figures in Hwangsung- Dong is Bokdu Men's figure II wore Bokdu which Hugak is attached to Byunhyung. The garment is a Po and it is a tight sleeve and silhouette's Banryungpo. The horizontal line of hemline of men's figure 1 can be presumed by expression of Ran though it is not as accurate as the clay figues in Yongg-ang-Dong. As for torso part 1, it can not be known the style of the crested hat because the head part was damaged, but it were shoes, belt and common sleeve, Banryungpo on tight sleeve shirt and tight trouser. The hair style of the women's clothing in Hwangsung-dong clay figure is Bukkye peculiar to Korea. The costume was slim silhouette that people wore tight sleeve and short blouse and long skirt and belted on their bosom which dresses style was in vogue from late Sui dynasty to the early years of the Tang period. The silh ouette of slim silhouette's high waist which can be seen in the women's dresses is mainly worn by Chinese and affected Shilla's costume. Therefore the dresses style of the clay figures in Hwagsung-Dong, it is considered it is a dresses style of tight sleeves and slim silhouette together with the adaptation and abolition of foreign elements on the basis of Shilla's own elements like Bukkye hair style and tight sleeve and silhouette. The style of Yonggang-Dong's clay figures expresses spherical gei and common sleeve, loose silhouette of flourishing Tang's costumes planly whereas the style of Hwangsung-Dong's clay costumes expresses refined spirit of the Shilla(Shillaism) though it is extremly simple.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1837-1847
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• 2008

The goal of this study is to express the image of chameleons-that change their colors by light, temperature and its mood-into the sexy styles of corresponding coquettish temperamental people in Wearable Art. The method used in this study was experimenting various production mediums, including creating the textured stretch fabric, in the process of expressing the conceptual characteristics of the chameleon in Wearable Art. The concept of the work was a concoction of 'tempting', 'splendid', 'brilliant', 'fascinating', etc. that highlighted the real disposition of the chameleon. The futuristic preference of the researcher was also implicated. "Comfortable" and "enjoyable" concepts via motions were improved with the its completeness. The point of the design and production is to express symbolically the chameleon in real life, analyzing its sleek body lines, conditional colors changing, outer skins and the cubic textures. The coquettish temperamental image, the conceptual image of the chameleon, was also expressed by implication into the whole work. The entire line of this work is body-conscious silhouette. It was symbolically selected to image the outline of the chameleon that has the slim and sleek body. The exposed back is intended to express symbolically the projected back bones of the chameleon. The hood of gentle triangle line expresses the smooth-lined head part. The irregular hemlines represent the elongated chameleon's tale. The chameleon with its colors of vivid tones is characterized the colors changing by its conditions. This point was importantly treated in the working process by trying the effects that the colors are seen slightly different according to the light and angles. The material was given the effect that its surface colors are seen different in lights and angles because of the wrinkles protruded lumpy-bumpy. The various stones of red and blue tones are very similar to the skin tones of the real chameleon, and their gradation makes the effect that the colors are visibly changed with each move. The textures of the chameleon were produced via the wrinkle effect of smoke-shape, which is the result of using the elastic threads on the basic mediums stitched with 50/50 chiffon and polyester along with velvet dot patterns. The stretching fabric by the impact of the elastic threads is as much suitable for making the body-conscious line. The stones are composed of acrylic cabochon and gemstone. They are symbolically expressed the lumpy and bumpy back skin of the chameleon and produced the effect of the colors visibly different. The primary technique used in this dress is the draping utilizing the biased grains. The front body piece is connected to the hood and joined to the back piece without any seam. For the irregular hemline flares, leaving the several rectangular pieces with bias grains, they were connected by interlocking. What defines the clothes is the person in action. Therefore, what decides the completeness of clothes might be its comfortable and enjoyable feeling by living and acting people. The chameleon dress could also reach its goal of comforting and pleasing Wearable Art in the process of studying the techniques and effects that visibly differentiate the colors. It is considered as a main point of the Wearable Art, which is a comfortable enjoyable clothing tempered with the artistic beauty.