• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제49권1호
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• pp.4-21
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• 2016

본 연구는 <진주검무>가 1967년 1월 16일 중요무형문화재 제12호로 지정된 이래 변화되고 있는 모습과 그 변화의 특징 및 보존 전승의 현황을 파악하려는데 목적이 있다. <진주검무>가 대를 이어가면서 변화를 거듭했고, 그로써 현재의 춤을 정립하게 된 정황을 파악하려는 것이다. <진주검무>는 1967년부터 2015년 현재 3대째의 보유자를 인정하였다. 제1세대 보유자는 권번 기녀 출신 8인이 1967년 인정되었다. 보유자들 간의 불화와 일부 보유자의 사망, 개인적인 경제활동 등의 이유로 전승교육이 잘 이루어지지 못했다. 따라서 전승교육과 활동의 구심점이 필요한 가운데 1978년 6월 21일에 성계옥이 제2세대 보유자로 추가 인정되었다. 비 기녀출신 성계옥의 활동 시기에는 <진주검무>의 새로운 시도와 변화를 가장 크게 보였다. 2009년 성계옥의 사망 후 제3세대 보유자는 김태연과 유영희로 2010년 2월에 인정되었다. 1966년 "무형문화재조사보고서"부터 2014년의 영상을 기초하여 비교한 춤과 그 주변의 변화 결과는 다음과 같다. 반주음악편성에 3세대 간 변화가 있었다. 1세대 영상(1970년)은 약 15분 공연했는데, 2세대 영상(2002년)는 25분여를 춤추도록 했다. 염불도드리 장단을 긴염불(상령산)로 해석하여 느리게 연주하였고, 본래 염불 15장단의 춤을 39장단까지 추가함으로써 시간을 길게 했다. 3세대(2013 2014년)에는 다시 15장단으로 환원된 춤을 추고 있다. 다만 긴염불이라는 명칭을 사용하면서 1세대 때는 3분간 추었던 염불을 3세대에서는 5분여를 춤추고 있어서, 2세대로부터 느림을 추구하고 있음을 보여준다. 춤 구성면에서 2세대에는 긴염불을 20여 장단 추가하면서 아(亞)자 모양의 춤 대형구성이 추가되었다. 3세대 공연에서는 실시하지 않고 있다. 춤사위 면에서 방석돌이 동작의 허리재기가 눈에 띄게 유연성을 잃어가고 있는 양상이다. 또 1장단의 시가가 늘어진 경향을 보인다. 중요무형문화재 지정 당시 1967년에는 칼 목이 돌아가는 것을 사용했는데, 2세대 보유자에 의해 1970년대 말부터 현행과 같이 칼목이 돌아가지 않는 것을 사용하기 시작했다. 칼의 모양도 1966년의 "조사보고서"는 반월형의 뾰족한 모습인데, 현재와 같은 직선형 칼을 사용한 것은 1970년 영상에서부터 보인다. 전립과 전복, 한삼착용의 기본 양식은 변화가 없으나, 한삼 색동 배열이 "조사보고서"와 달라졌다. 또 남색치마를 입는 것으로 변화되었다. 이상의 결과로 볼 때, <진주검무>는 지정 이후 약 50년 동안 변화가 능동적으로 실시되었음을 알 수 있다. 주로 제2세대 성계옥 보유자를 주축으로 변화가 일어났다. 중요무형문화재의 전승과 보존이라는 명제에서 볼 때, 춤 종목은 장단과 춤의 조화가 그 무엇보다 중요하다. 국가 중요무형문화재로서 검무의 오랜 전통성을 보존 전승하려는 노력이 강화될 수 있기를 바란다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.1060-1069
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• 2004

We can study and judge the costumes of the Three Kingdom period through an ancient tomb murals and various burial mound(clay) figures, however, it is quite difficult to search for costumes of the Goryeo period ($960{\sim}1392$), because dresses from this era were rarely found, related antiquities are limited and hard to survive. This is the reason why people say that the Goryeo Dynasty is the period of undiscovered era for its history of costumes in Korea. Fortunately, these days, there are various kinds of buddhist statues discovered with its burial accessories such as costumes and dyed fabrics of the Goryeo era. Through these, we can glimpse through the Goryeo cloths and develop our researches on this field. In addition, a man called Seo Geung(서긍, the Chinese scholar Xu Jing) wrote a book in the 12th century about peoples lives in Goryeo and in this book, there are few documents about the people's costumes which help us to understand the period's traditional dresses. In this paper, we will look for the traditional costumes which were formed and developed through people's lives in Goryeo, using remains from various burial accessories in buddhist statues as well as the documents related to the costumes written in ${\ll}$Goryeosa 고려사${\gg}$. Moreover, costumes of a period usually developed and influenced by the atmosphere of people's lives both economically and mentally, therefore, in this study, we will especially focus on the dresses of the bureaucratic officials and their wives, who led comfortable lives and latitude of mind. Through the records, like Silla, Goryeo exported Sehjeo(세저) and Sehjoongmapo(세중마포) to China. And we found out that Silla's skillful weaving techniques of hemp and ramie cloths were succeeded to Goryeo. According to above facts, Goryeo people made clothes with various kinds of fabrics such as, different sorts of silks, ramie, hemp cloths and cottons. They also have very skillful manufacturing techniques for certain textiles. Their official robes were generally influenced by Tang and Song Dynasty, but, like ordinary people, we found out that the government officials also wore baji(pants) and a jeogor(jacket), which were traditional costumes since the Unified Silla Kingdom with various coats. Especially, women's costumes such as jeoksam(unlined summer jacket) and hansam(한삼), which are sort of jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) and chima(skirts) were made of various kinds of silks and ramie cloths, that were generated from the Goguryeo Kingdom, with jikryeongpo(a long jacket and striped skirt).

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.29-44
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• 2013

This study is about the periodic characteristics of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty. Wonsam include the Danryeong-shaped Wonsam in the beginning, the compound Wonsam in a period of transition and the stereotyped Wonsam in the late Joseon Dynasty. The formative characteristics of Wonsam are divided into four stages. The first stage of the Wonsam is from the 15th to 16th century. The shape of Wonsam began to form and it was similar to one of Danryeong during this time. The formative characteristics of the first Wonsam included collars that looked like one of Danryeong, side pleats(called Moo) with multiple inner folds, straight cylinder-shaped sleeves, and a belt tied with the Wonsam. There were various fabrics that were used for the Wonsam from this stage. Second stage of the Wonsam is from the early 17th to mid 17th century. This period marked the beginning of the transition of the Wonsam and it served as a stepping-stone to the development stage in the Joseon Dynasty. The characteristics of the transitional Wonsam were a complex combination of the Danryeong and Wonsam. During this period, the Wonsam went through many changes and forms in a short period of time. Third stage of the Wonsam is from the mid 17th to early 19th century. The Wonsam was developed at this stage. The developed Wonsam went through a period of transition equipped with a stable form. The formative characteristics of Wonsam during this period included collars that faced each other, big and wide sleeves with multicolored stripes, Hansam, curve-edged side seam and the side pleats(Moo) with multiple inner folds had disappeared. It was a turning point from the single-layered clothes to double layered clothes and from dark blue to green color appeared at this time. The fabric patterns of this stage tended to consist of more simplified silk pattern. The fourth stage of the Wonsam is from the late 19th to 20th century. The Wonsam was expanded at this stage. The formative characteristics and fabrics were typically used for the standard Wonsam and were divided into two types; as a ceremonial robe used in courts and a wedding ceremonial robe for the common people. Phenomena such as sewing of double-layered clothes as one and straight-edged side seam during the late Joseon period developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.525-535
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• 2021

본 연구는 동궁비 원삼의 직금단과 자수에 사용된 금사를 대상으로 과학적 분석을 통해 재료적 특성을 파악하였다. 동궁비 원삼의 금사 배지는 비목질계 섬유소가 관찰되어 닥나무 섬유의 한지를 사용한 것으로 추정된다. XRF 분석을 통해 동궁비 원삼의 통수스란에는 순금의 편금사, 색동과 한삼에는 편은사로 제직한 직금단임을 알 수 있었다. 특히 편은사에서는 황이 높게 검출되는데 이것은 은을 사용하여 금빛을 내기 위한 훈증의 유황 성분의 영향과 보존환경에 의한 황화은이 형성된 것으로 보인다. 또한 용보의 문양은 연금사와 연은사로 표현하였으며, 용보의 테두리는 순금의 연금사로 장식하였다. 특히 본 연구에서는 금사의 금속면과 배지 사이의 접착제와 혼합물에 대해 GC/MS, XRF, Raman 분석을 실시하였다. 그 결과 단백질계 화합물인 아교와 같은 접착제를 사용하고, 혼합물로는 편금사의 경우 활석을 섞고, 편은사에는 석간주를 혼합하여 사용하였음을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.219-238
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• 1998

For the purpose of this Study, the situation of Korean costume properties in the collection of overseas museums was investigated through correspondence, interviews with their curators and persons in charge and survey. As results were made about the situation of museum science (conservation) and practical utilization of costume properties. So, the study result were drawn as follows : Krean costume properties unexplaind of 'Korean cultural Properties' could be found in the Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York(135 pieces), the Brooklyn Museum of New York(20 pieces), the Newark Museum of New Jersey(15 pieces), and the Victoria Albert Museum of London(100 pieces). Korean costume properties in the collection of over-seas museums mostly fall under the rang of period between the 19th century and the early 20th century and are classified into everyday clothing, wedding costume and armors for the most part. In 1900s, museum in several countries began to collected Korean cultural properties through foreign missionaries or diplomats as well as merchants or travellers in who bought Korean objects. Recently, scholars, traditional Korean costume designerss and diplomatic and consular offices in overseas have donated our Korean costume to many foreign museums. Korean costume properties were largely on display in the dependent display of folklore museums or in a part of exhibition gallery for Asian culture and there were the separate exhibition rooms in museums in the United Kingdom, Germany, Denmark, Austria, Japan and the United States America. But the size and level of display room for Korean cultural properties is one third as large as that for chinese or Japanese cultual properties. It was found in this study that the traditional Korean costume in the collection of overseas museums was largely recorded only as general items rather than given their proper names. The typical example of misnaming included bridal's Kimono for Wonsam(원삼) in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Yeonroksaek-bumunsajeokori for Dangeui(당의) and Jissan-gryongwonmunsadurumagi for Kongdali(동달이) in the Okura collection of the Tokyo National Museum, and so on. And the Victoria Albert Museum modified the way of wearing Daenim(대님) and the National Museum of Ethnology in Osaka seemed to misplace the ornament of Keanggi(댕기) on Mubok(무복) and Josunjuk(조선족: Chinese-Korean) Museum also misplace hansam(한삼). On the one hand, the Newark museum of New Jersey mixed Chinese armor with the Korean one and the Photohraph of King Kojong(고종) with Chinese one. It is corrected to publish and disseminate the book concering Korean costume in order to inform foreign museums of thed proper names and wearing method of our traditional costumed. The repair of costume before cleaning in the process of conservation treatment can prevent damage likely to occur as the properties of fiber itself are weakened in liquid. It is recommended that western 8-figure stitch and tacking stitch is added to Korean traditional stitching method. Museums in the U.S.A and the U.K are concerned about the aftermath of cleaning it-self, specially conservation treatment may exert on remains and predominantly use the vacuuming method to remove dust or bits of straw before the exhibition beings. But in case of Korea, the dry cleaning and wet cleaning method are used according to the nature and state of a sample costume. This comprehensive cleaning method is gradually developing scientifically but it is expected that those concerned will make a chemical analysis of the solvent to be used and also the more precise test of costume properties will be conducted before cleaning them. A partial study was made here because the scope of study was too broad and vast. It is expected that more studies will be conducted concerning our costume culture under the long-term plan and active support at the government level.

• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.41-63
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• 1981

The mural portraits of the ancient Dukheungri tombs are very important for the study of our traditional costume because the tomb contains a stone. with the in-scription of the date of its erection, 408 A.D. and the name, and official status of the buried. The costumes shown in the mural paintings will be the basis on which historical research can be made concerning costumes before and after 400 A. D. The costume in the mural paintings is classified into five different categories; You (jacket), Po (overcoat), Go (trousers), Sang (skirt), and Gwan (hat). Comparing these categories with those of other mural paintings lead us to the following conclusions. 1. The length of the You (jacket) reaches below the buttocks and the sleeves are narrow. The edges of the sleeves are decorated with stripes. The You (jacket) over-laps on the right, center, and left sides, and there are many Jikryong (V-collar) and Danryong (rounded collar) styles, but it has a similar tendency to others of the Pyongyang area which exhibit many foreign influences. In a departure from tradition. the belts on the men's You (jackets) have only 3 knots in the front, with the back having more knots than the front. The belts of the women's You (jacket) seem to have had a band or button for fastening. We must re-evaluate the assumption that the You (jacket) and Go (trousers) of the northern peoples had the common characters of a belted You (jacket) and Po (over-coat) and that the Gorum originated from the Goryo or Unified Silla dynasty. The outside of the sleeves are longer and more to the side than the inner garment (underwear) so that the sleeves of the inner garment frequently overlapped the outer dress. The above mentioned facts have lead to the discovery of the "Hansam," "Tosi" and "Geodoolgi." 2. The Po (overcoat) was used only by the upperclasses and differs from those found in other mural tombs. The Po (overcoat) of the noble on the tomb mural is centered with an overlapping Jikryong (V-collar) while the other Po (overcoats) of the upperclasses are characterized by an overlap on the left, a Danryong (rounded collar) with two types of sleeves (wide and narrow). Foreign influences and traditional influences coexist in Po (overcoat). Belts have frontal knots without exceptions. The facts that the belts on the You (jackets) are on the front and the belts on the Po (overcoats) are on the back must be reexamined. 3. Go (trousers) is usually narrow, being wider in the rear and narrower below the knees. They were used by hunters on the back of horses with similar Go (trousers) from the Noinwoowha tombs being typical of the northern peoples. 4. Sang (skirts) are pleated as commonly seen in the Goguryo murals. The size of the pleat is varied, each pleat being characteristically wider and having different colors. Same types of pleat are discovered in Central Asia and China. It is uncertain whether the pleat of Goguryo was originated in Central Asia and China or only interrelated with those of the areas. 5. There are three kinds of Gwan (hats); Nagwan, Chuck, and Heukgun. Nag-wan was worn by the dead lords and their close relations. Chuck has three cone shaped horns. Heukgun was worn by military bandmen and horsemen. There are two kinds of hair styles. The up-style was used by the upperclass people closely related to lords, and other people used the Pungimoung hair style. The hair styles of the men and women are characterized by the Pungimoung style. which is a Chinese influence, but still retain their originality. The costume has a similar tendency from those from Yaksuri mural tombs, Anak No. 2 and Anak No. 3. We need to reexamine the costumes from $4{\sim}5$ century murals according to the Dukheungri murals. The costumes of Goguryo share many common factors with those of Western Asia, Central Asia and Ancient China (Han). It seems due to the cultural exchanges among the Northern peoples, the Western and Central Asians, and the Ancient Chinese. It may have resulted from the structural identity or morphological identity of the peoples, or their common social and natural environments and life styles. It will be very valuable to study the costumes of Japan, China, and Korea to find out the common factors. It is only regretful that the study is not based on direct observations but reported information made by 77 persons, because Dukheungri is an off-limits area to us.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제34호
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• pp.9-42
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• 2017

한국의 검무는 조선시대까지 의례, 민속예능, 궁중연향, 풍류 등에서 다양하게 추어졌다. 그 중 기생들이 민간과 궁중에서 추었던 여기(女妓) 검무가 현재까지 전승되었는데, 조선 후기 문학작품들에 기록된 검무들은 현행 검무보다 역동적이고 검기(劍氣)를 가득 담은 춤이었다. 하지만 현재 전승되고 있는 기녀 검무들은 의식(儀式)성이 강하고 단아하다. 시대적 변화를 겪으며 검무의 정조(情調)가 변한 듯하다. 그러나 이러한 차이에도 불구하고 시대를 관통하는 검무의 핵심적인 구조가 있을 것이라는 가설 하에 검무의 내적 구조를 시론적으로 분석해 보았다. 이를 위해 현행 검무와 조선 후기 검무의 구조를 교차하여 연구하였다. 조선후기 문학작품 중 박제가의 <검무기>와 정약용의 <무검편증미인>을 분석했고, 무보로 "정재무도홀기"에서 <검기무>와 "교방가요"의 <검무>를 분석하였다. 도입과정에서는 춤꾼이 등장하여 절을 하고 춤꾼의 캐릭터를 보여주고, 무진 무퇴하며 손춤이나 한삼춤을 춘다. 전개과정에서는 춤꾼과 검이 만나는데, 검을 잡을 것인지를 갈등하다가 양 손에 칼을 잡고 춤춘다. 절정과정에서 숙련된 검술과 교전(交戰)의 모습을 보여주고, 마지막에 연풍대까지 춘다. 결말과정에서는 궁중에서 추었던 경우 인사를 하고 마치지만, 교방에서 추었던 경우 칼을 던지고 춤을 마무리한다. 검무의 구조를 도입 - 전개 - 절정 - 결말로 구분하였다. 이러한 네 단계의 전개 구조에 현행 검무(진주검무, 통영검무, 해주검무, 호남검무, 국립국악원의 검기무)의 춤사위 진행을 결부시키고, 반주 장단인 염불 - 타령(또는 늦은타령) - 자진타령 - 타령 - 자진타령의 순서에 따라 검무의 전개를 분석해보았다. 도입과정은 염불이나 타령의 초입부분이다. 기생이 등장하면서 캐릭터가 제시되고, 2열로 나뉘어 상대(相對)하며 춤춘다. 염불과 타령의 도입과정은 여유롭고 우아하게 진행된다. 전개과정은 타령의 중간이나 자진타령에 해당한다. 춤꾼들이 검 앞에 앉아 있거나 앉게 되는데, 칼을 잡기(집검(執劍))까지 갈등의 과정이 보여지다가, 결국 쌍검을 잡고 춤춘다. 타령에서 자진타령 장단으로 속도를 점차 높이며 검을 잡는 과정의 갈등과 긴장감을 고조시킨다. 또 자진타령의 탄력 있는 장단이 춤의 전개를 조금씩 진전시키는 역할을 하게 된다. 그런데 속도를 갑자기 늦추어 타령장단이 3~4장단 배치되었다. 자진타령의 빠른 장단에서 타령의 느린 장단으로 전환되는데, 그 이유는 검무의 진전되는 긴장감을 잠시 끌어내 숨을 고르게 했다가, 다시 속도를 높여서, 이 춤이 절정으로 가기 전에 검무의 묘미를 높이는 효과를 만드는 것이라고 하겠다. 그리고 다시 자진타령으로 속도가 빨라지면 검무의 동작들은 더욱 폭이 크고 역동적으로 펼쳐진다. 고조된 자진타령의 빠르고 힘 있는 장단에 맞춰 추면서 절정과정의 최고조에 이르는 것이다. 마지막 결말은 잦은 타령이 고조되고, 연풍대의 여세를 몰아 일렬로 서서 검을 휘두르며 춤추다가, 인사를 하고 춤을 마친다. 여기까지 자진타령이 이어진다. 이상 검무의 전개 과정에서 염불 - 타령 - 자진타령 - 타령 - 자진타령으로 이어지는 반주음악은 검무의 도입, 전개, 절정, 결말이라는 구조와 긴밀히 연관되어 있고, 각 과정을 선명히 드러내는 역할을 하고 있다. 조선후기 문헌에 기록된 기녀들의 검무와 현행 검무가 진행상에 약간의 차이를 보이지만, 시대를 관통하는 검무의 핵심적인 내적 구조를 파악할 수 있다.