• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.263-278
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• 2004

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ONA are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepato-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effect of UA and ONA on acutely barrier disrupted and normal hairless mouse skin. To evaluate the effects of UA and ONA on epidermal permeability barrier recovery, both flanks of 8-12 week-old hairless mice were topically treated with either 0.01-0.1mg/mL UA or 0.1-1mg/mL ONA after tape stripping, and TEWL (transepidermal water loss) was measured. The recovery rate increased in those UA or ONA treated groups (0.1mg/mL UA and 0.5mg/mL ONA) at 6h more than 20% compared to vehicle treated group (p < 0.05). Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/mL per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to vehicle group from 1 week without TEWL alteration (p < 0.005). EM examination using RuO4 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent (ONA=UA > vehicle). LM finding showed that thickness of stratum corneum (SC) was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA > ONA > vehicle). We also observed that UA and ONA stimulate epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Protein expression of involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin increased at least 2 and 3 fold in HaCaT cells treated with either ONA (10${\mu}$M) or UA (10${\mu}$M) for 24 h respectively. This result suggested that the UA and ONA can improve epidermal permeability barrier function and induce the epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber elongation by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory activity measurements were also confirmed in vivo findings. These data suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only epidermal permeability barrier functions but also dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthesis. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve epidermal and dermal functions and pertinent agents for cosmeseutical applications.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.225-235
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• 2019

Cymbopogon citratus (CC) and Perilla frutescens (PF) are known to exert various biological effects. However, their skin hydration and skin barrier effects remain unclear. This study investigated effects of their extracts on skin hydration and skin barrier and analysed the phenolic compounds. effects of these extracts on skin hydration in HaCaT cells showed that Hyaluronic acid production in cells treated with ethanol extracts was higher than that treated with water extracts for both CC and PF. HPLC was used to analyse 19 phenolic compounds in CC and PF ethanol extracts (CCE and PFE). Results revealed chlorogenic acid and p-coumaric acid in CCE and rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid in PFE. Expression levels of hyaluronan synthase 1 (HAS1), HAS2, HAS3, and aquaporin 3 (AQP3), which are related to skin moisturization, and filaggrin and loricrin, which are related to skin barrier were higher in cells treated with CCE than with PFE. CCE and PFE also increased expression of PPAR-a protein involved in skin moisturization and epidermal differentiation in a concentration-dependent manner. As major components of CCE, chlorogenic acid and p-coumaric acid increased PPAR-a protein expression. Thus, CCE and PFE could be used as functional cosmetic materials for skin hydration and skin barrier effects.

• Journal of Society of Preventive Korean Medicine
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.43-56
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• 2012

Objective : In this study, we assessed the anti-bacterial effects and epidermal permeability barrier function of red onion juice comparing to yellow onion juice and $Houttuynia$ $cordata$ extract $in$ $vitro$. Methods : 3types of red and yellow onion juice were prepared as antibacterial agent candidates with Houttuynia cordata hot water extract using 4 different bacterial strains ($Escherichia$ $coil$, $Salmonella$ $enterica$ $subsp.$ $enterica$, $Staphylococcus$ $epidermidis$, $Staphylococcus$ $aureus$ $subsp$) by colony counting method. The expression of filaggrin, a marker of keratinocyte differentiation, and serine palmitoyl transferase (SPT), a marker of the formation of the stratum corneum lipid barrier, in human HaCat keratinocytes were analyzed using HaCaT cell line. The expression of COX-2 and AP-1 which is a factor of COX-2 transcription were also analyzed by western blotting method. Results : There was detectable anti-bacterial effects on $Staphylococcus$ $epidermidis$, $Staphylococcus$ $aureus$ $subsp$ among 1%, 5%, 10% extracts of yellow and red onion.(81%-100%) The bacteriocidal effects were not shown on $Escherichia$ $coil$, $Salmonella$ $enterica$ $subsp.$ $enterica$ among $Houttuynia$ $cordata$, yellow onion and red onion extracts. The in vitro results showed the concentration-dependent effects on the expression of both filaggrin and SPT in HaCat cells among 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5% extracts in Houttuynia cordata and red onion, reflecting the notion that $Houttuynia$ $cordata$ and red onion can induce epidermal keratinocyte differentiation and improve the recovery of skin barrier functions. The concentration-dependent effects also have been shown on the expression of both COX-2 and AP-1 among 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5% extracts in $Houttuynia$ $cordata$ and red onion, while slight effect in yellow onion. Conclusion : Red onion juice could be a potential candidate enhanser for the skin care and cosmetology.

• Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.51 no.3
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• pp.238-244
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• 2008

The essential oil was obtained from the aerial part of Caryopteris incana Miq. by steam distillation, samples were collected by headspace (HS) and solid-phase microextraction (SPME) methods, and the compositions of the essential oil were analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS). The fragrance of the essential oil was fougere and woody. There were sixty-nine constituents in the essential oil: 28 carbohydrates, 22 alcohols, 7 acetates, 7 ketones, 3 aldehydes, and 2 others. Major constituents were 4,6,6-trimethyl [1S-($1{\alpha},2{\beta},5{\alpha}$)]-bicyclo[3.1.1]hept-3-en-2-ol (11.8%), taucadinol (9.4%), myrtenyl acetate (9.2%), pinocarvone (7.0%), 1-hydroxy-1,7-dimethyl-4-isopropyl-2,7-cyclodecadiene (6.3%), ${\delta}$-3-carene (6.2%). By SPME extraction, forty-nine constituents were identified: 22 hydrocarbons, 16 alcohols, 6 acetates, 3 ketones, and 2 ethers. Major constituents of the SPME-extracted sample were ${\delta}$-3-carene (12.6%), (-)-myrtenyl acetate (11.2%), 6,6-dimethyl-2-methylene-bicycol [3.1.1] heptan-3-o1 (10.9%), pinocarvone (9.3%). By HS extraction, ten constituents were identified: 5 hydrocarbons, 2 amines, 1 alcohol, and 2 others. Major constituents of the HS-extracted sample were (Z)-2-fluoro-2-butene (34.9%), ${\delta}$-3-carene (6.9%), 6-(4-chlorophenul)tetrahydro-2-methyl-2H-1,2-oxazine (5.9%). The $IC_{50}$ value (0.011 ${\mu}g/mg$) in MTT assay using HaCaT keratinocyte cell line was lower than those of commercially-selling rosemary and tea tree, suggesting more toxicological studies are needed for commercial use of the essential oil of Caryopteris incana Miq.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.171-181
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• 2018

Genistein is one of the representative isoflavone compounds isolated from soybeans and has been studied very well for its anti-aging and anti-inflammatory activity through previous studies. However, although genistein exhibits high solubility in organic solvents, it shows low bioavaility due to the low water solubility. In this study, we compared directly the functional difference between genistein and genistein cyclodextrin complex which has the improved water solubility and stability by cell based assay. Cell cytotoxicity experiment were carried out on RAW264.7 with CCK-8 assay and cytotoxicity was appeared from $10{\mu}g/mL$, thereby maximum concentration was set to $10{\mu}g/mL$ in all condition. We discovered that genistein CD complex suppressed NO production and iNOS expression as concentration dependent manner in the condition of LPS rather than genistein. Also, we could understand that genistein CD complex was able to down-regulate mRNA expression of anti-inflammatory cytokines such as $IL1-{\alpha}$, $IL1-{\beta}$, IL-6, and $TNF-{\alpha}$ as concentration dependent manner in the presence of LPS. In addition, we verified that genistein CD complex increased TEER of HaCaT human keratinocyte cells as concentration dependent pattern and stimulated cell division and migration rather than genistein in cell migration assay. Thus, it is expected that it can be used as an effective cosmetic raw material for improving atopic dermatitis or skin barrier if clinical studies on skin regeneration and skin barrier of the genistein CD complex are carried out.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.28 no.11
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• pp.1369-1378
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• 2018

Prunus mume Siebold & Zucc., a member of the Rosaceae family (called Maesil in Korea), has been widely distributed in East Asia, e.g. Korea, Japan and China, and its fruit has been used as a traditional drug and health food. In this study, we evaluated physicochemical properties and physiological activities of condensed Prunus mume juice treated with pectinase (PJ). The values of total acidity, pH, sugar contents, turbidity moisture content of the PJ were 35.81%, 2.73, $54.36^{\circ}Brix$, 2.75 and 51.32%, respectively. The PJ had effective DPPH radical scavenging activity, reducing power effect, $H_2O_2$ scavenging activity and ${\beta}$-carotene bleaching effect. DPPH radical scavenging activities of PJ was 46.31%; their reducing power ($OD_{700}$) was 1.80; $H_2O_2$ scavenging activity of PJ was 91.62%; and ${\beta}$-carotene bleaching effect of PJ was 73.02%. Also, PJ showed effective levels of ${\alpha}$-glucosidase inhibition activity. The cell viability was measured by SRB assay. The PJ significantly decreased the cell viability of mouse melanoma cells (B16) and human melanoma cells (SK-MEL-2 and SK-MEL-28) in a dose-dependent manner, however, there was no effect on human keratinocyte HaCaT. In morphological study, PJ-treated SK-MEL-2 cells showed distorted and shrunken cell masses. Total polyphenol contents and total flavonoid contents of PJ were 588.31 mg% (gallic acid equivalent) and 860.45 mg% (rutin equivalent). The antiproliferative effect of PJ seems to be associated with the antioxidant activity of its flavonoid and polyphenol contents. In conclusion, PJ may be beneficial in development of a functional food material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.37-47
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• 2019

Recently, due to the increase in skin diseases caused by particulate matter, endocrine disruptor and environmental changes, the trend of development of cosmetic materials has been shifting to the more safe and effective ingredients based on natural materials rather than existing synthetic compounds like steroids and antihistamines. This study aimed to develop a new natural cosmetic materials using oriental herbs such as Eucommiae cortex, Alpinia oxyphylla Miquel and Bombyx batryticatus. First, DPPH assay was performed to examine the antioxidative activity of the herbal extract (Mix) and 98.8% DPPH radical scavenging activity was confirmed at $400{\mu}g/mL$ concentration of it. In order to confirm the whitening efficacy of oriental herbal extracts(mix), the amount of melanin synthesized after stimulation of ${\alpha}-MSH$ with B16F10 cells was measured. Results showed that it was decreased to 27.1% comparing with the only ${\alpha}-MSH$ treated group, which confirmed the whitening efficacy. Also, both nitric oxide(NO) production and iNOS and COX-2 expression were significantly reduced in RAW264.7 macrophages activated by LPS in the presence of the extracts(Mix). The mRNA expression of the inflammatory cytokines such as $IL-1{\alpha}$, $IL-1{\beta}$, IL-6, and $TNF-{\alpha}$ was also analyzed to confirm the inhibition effect of the extracts on inflammation. Finally, to confirm the enhancement of skin barrier function, the expression of claudin 1 gene, a tight junction protein, was observed using human keratinocyte HaCaT cells and increased as concentration dependent manner. From these results, it is concluded that the oriental herbal extracts(Mix) containing Eucommiae cortex, Alpinia oxyphylla Miquel and Bombyx batryticatus is effective for antioxidant, anti-inflammation, skin whitening, and skin barrier and thus could be applied as a new natural cosmetic material.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.71-78
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• 2011

Biological activities of sarcocarp and calyx of persimmon (Cheongdo Bansi) were investigated. The electron donating ability of the calyx extract was 91% at a 500 ${\mu}g/mL$ level, which was higher than that of the sarcocarp extract (40%). The superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity of calyx extracts was about 22% at a 1,000 ${\mu}g/mL$ level. During the entire experimental period, there was no cytotoxicity found from sarcocarp and calyx up to 50 ${\mu}g/mL$. Our results indicated that sarcocarp and calyx significantly inhibited NO production and iNOS and COX-2 expression accompanied by an attenuation of interleukin (IL)-$1{\beta}$, IL-6, and tumer necrosis factor (TNF)-${\alpha}$ formation in human keratinocyte. These results suggest that sarcocarp and calyx of persimmon may have significant effect on inflammatory factors and can be used as potential anti-inflammatory agents.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.311-319
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• 2012

Seborrheic dermatitis (SD) is the skin disease occurred because of Malassezia yeast which grows on the skin and scalp, and this yeast lives on sebum lipid, and their metabolite, free lipid acids are thought to be the main irritant on skin. To find out effective cosmeceutical ingredients to treat SD symptoms, we established novel cell-based in vitro model mimicking SD symptoms. This in vitro model adopted the co-culture system with primary sebocyte & HaCaT keratinocyte. We used M. globosa yeast extract, arachidonic acid, linoleic acid and dihydrotestosterone as SD inducers. In the co-culture system with optimized concentrations for SD-inducing cocktail, the production of IL-8 and sebum lipids increased up to 2-fold, and then we screened with commercial essential oils by monitoring IL-8 as a key inflammatory biomarker. Then we found that Cinnamomum zeylanicum oil, Mentha arvensis oil effectively down-regulated IL-$1{\alpha}$, IL-6, IL-8 cytokines which over-produced by SD-inducing cocktail. Additionally, two essential oils also showed inhibitory effect on sebum lipid synthesis from primary sebocyte and growth inhibitory effect to M. globosa yeast (MICs were lower than 0.0625 %). Our recent results suggest that Cinnamomum zeylanicum oil and Mentha arvensis oil could be effective natural herbal remedies to relieve or protect scalp seborrheic dermatitis.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.550-555
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• 2013

Extrinsic skin aging is characterized by the loss of skin tone and resilience, irregular pigmentation, and deep wrinkles. The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of Ehwa Makgeolli containing oriental herbs (Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch., Lycium chinense MILL., Morus alba L., and Saururus chinensis Baill) on skin whitening and wrinkling in human skin cells. We prepared Makgeolli extracts (HEE) with 70% ethanol. HEE significantly inhibited in vitro mushroom tyrosinase activity and reduced the cellular and secreted melanin content of mouse melanoma melanocytes (B16F1 cells). HEE down-regulated the protein expression of tyrosinase related protein (TRP)-1/-2, a key player in melanogenesis. Treatment with HEE in human keratinoctyes (HaCaT cells) inhibited the proteolytic activities of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-2/-9 in a dose-dependent manner and dramatically reduced the expression of MMP-2/-9. In addition, HEE attenuated lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced nitric oxide production in murine macrophages (RAW264.7 cells). These results indicate that HEE may be a great cosmeceutical ingredient for its whitening, anti-wrinkle, and anti-inflammatory effects.