• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.141-151
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to suggest the skirt grading rule for different somatotypes. For this study 9 subjects were classified three types according to the shape of front hips such as diamond, standard, heart. Skirts pattern were made by Moonwha grading method for traditional grading rule. For each somatotypes, skirt pattern were graded by new grading rule. The sensory evaluations were practiced for appearance and function. At the result, comparing between the new grading rule and traditional grading rule, new grading rule was fitter than the traditional grading rule. And diamond type was distinctively better than the other somatotype at sensory evaluation appearance. For pattern making of diamond type it had better use the new grading rule that was considered the characteristics of body shape.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.13-22
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to develop pattern and grading method of slacks of adults women of standard somatotype to prove fitness of lower body shape. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. the 4 pattern were compared by the sensory evaluation to choose which one is more appropriate to this research. The slacks pattern developed by modification from L method. 2. The results of the sensory evaluation have down that the new slacks pattern have better fit than the traditional pattern. 3. The standard sized patterns were graded using Moonwha grading rule as a traditional one and the new grading rule. The new grading rule was developed by fitting the slacks which were made by traditional grading rule. 4. The results of the sensory evaluation have down that the slacks made by the new grading rule developed in this work have better fit than the ones made by the traditional grading rule.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.11
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• pp.1-9
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• 2002

Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make patterns of several sizes. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for junior-high school girls' lower clothes and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 402 junior-high school girls of 13 to 15 year's-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3㎝ and 4㎝ respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4.5%, was classified 8 cases. For regular grading, two types of group were classified into 58-82/61-86/64-90/67-94 and 61-82/64-86/67-90/70-94. Among them, 61-86 and 64-86 size were adopted the basic size for the development of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, new grading rule patterns were developed by each size. A new grading rule was different from the Moonwha grading rule. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.48-59
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• 2003

The purposes of this research lie in developing dress shirts pattern targeting adult males between 25-34 years of age and presenting the rules of grading according to the real circumstances of dress shirts industry. The findings of this research are as follows: 1. The surveyed companies kept different size systems ranged from 5 to 18. They kept different size systems each other, and the pattern making was conducted by modification of the collar size, chest size, etc of the pattern developed through each company's know-how. All the surveyed companies were using point method of grading. 2. The method of the research pattern was to adopt N/6+1(cm) for the width of the back of the neck. N/6 for the front neck, N/6+2 for the depth of the front neck, B/6+7 for the shoulder width, B/6+5.5 for the breast width, B/4+5 for the whole width (back), B/4+4 for the whole width (front), B/4+3.5 for the depth, AH/2+0.5 for the back arm hole, AH2+1 for the front arm hole. 3. The grading rule was made after classifying the sizes into 14 centered on the standard size 40. Through the wearing test of research grading rule, 1 found the suitability of grading size 36 and 43 satisfiable.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.771-778
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• 2009

There may be some problems in size fitness for ready-made-clothes purchasers with fatty body shape especially for them with abdominal obesity. The purpose of this study was to improve the wearing comfort of Middle-aged women slacks by setting grading points and developing grading rules proper to the abdominal obesity. The subjects in this study was over $25kg/m^2$ of the BMI, over 85cm of waist, and over 0.8 of WHR. A total of 176 Middle-aged women satisfyingthem were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: (1) The majority segment is 85-94 size accounting for the 11.36% of subjects. (2) The measurements on 11 size from three groups after drawing slacks pattern on them revealed that the changed values of slacks front and back on the grading point marked are differ, indicating that it is needed to apply body shape and age specific grading rule. (3) The evaluation on the appearance for wearing slacks showed relatively high score, indicating that the grading between sizes within each group was effective. The studies on the body size distribution on each obesity pattern and on the setting size system reflecting characteristics of each body shape should be performed continuously.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.934-942
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• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.634-640
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• 2004

Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear. Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make various size pattern. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for high school boys' pants and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 217 high school boys of 16 to 18 year-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3 cm and 4 cm respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4%, was classified 8 cases. Among them, 71-92 and 71-88 size were the most frequent size and were adopted the basic size for the two types of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, 4 size's new grading-rule patterns were developed by each size. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2011

Recently, the visual grading rule of Korea Forest Research Institute (KFRI) was revised and it is necessary to investigate the distribution characteristics of visual graded lumber in accordance with the revised rule. Therefore, in this study, the distribution characteristics of bending strength was investigated with revised visual grading rule and changed prior rule, respectively. The size of specimens was $38{\times}140{\times}3,000$ (mm) and the species were $Larix$ $kaempferi$ and $Pinus$ $koraiensis$. The moisture content was under 18% and the specimens were tested in accordance with ASTM D-198. The number of No. 1 and 2 grades, suitable for structural lumber, was increased when the revised visual grading rule was applied. Moreover, the revised rule was more effective to distinguish sharply between No. 1 and 2 grades and below No. 3 grade. Meanwhile, the lower 5% exclusion limit and allowable stresses were generally decreased when revised visual grading rule had been applied. However, the announcement of Korea Forest Service, tested with small clear specimen, was much lower than the allowable stresses of this test, tested with structural lumber. Therefore, the revision of allowable design values should be considered for more exact use and effective structural design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.9_10
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• pp.1048-1059
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• 2003

This study focusses pattern draft and grading of jeans for women in their 20s, who consume jeans the most. Pattern was drafted based on existing patterns collected from companies. It is different from the existing educational patterns. It suggests new sizing system for twenties referring to sizes used companies and grading rule and method. he results were as follows; 1. Companies manufacture 2-8 sizes and they referred to the Korean Industrial Standards, KS K 0051, for their sizing system. 2. Drawing method for Pattern of the study had following measurements for each part: in the case of waist circumference, front part was W/4+1.5cm, back part was W14+2cm, front hip circumference was H/4-1.5cm, crotch line was the crotch length (practical measurement), hip circumference was (upper crotch line length)/5+0.5cm, front crotch part was 2.7cm, back crotch part was W/5+2.7cm, knee height was (the length of leg)/2+6cm and the circumference of knee and the tip of pants were 40cm. Through the wearing test on the subject of twenties, researched pattern received higher ratings, especially in appearance than the existing pattern. 3. 5 sizes system was made referred to the sizing system of companies and National Anthropometric Survey of Korean in 1997 Grading rule for 12 grading points of front part and 13 grading points of back part was suggested. Results of wearing test on the graded patterns showed high ratings similar to standard size.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.475-484
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to suggest the standard sizing system and grading rules according to body types of elderly women. The data were the anthropometric measurements of 329 women aged 60 and older measured in 2001. To determine the effective and useful clothing sizing system, the distribution of hip girth and bust girth of 3 body types which were suggested in KS K 0055 was analyzed, and the significant difference among adjoining hip girth ranges was analyzed, too. And the sizes of major body parts that were used for manufacturing clothing were made to have regular interval between each clothing sizes. From this study, we certified that each different sizing system for 3 body types to manufacture more suitable clothing for elderly women was necessary and suggested the standard size for each body type. And we also suggested the patternmaking sizes that were needed to manufacture ready-made clothing. On the basis of standard size, we suggested the grading rules for 3 body types. And we verified the propriety of the grading rules for 3 body types through the fitting test, and we knew that the grading rules for 3 body types of this study was very useful to manufacture clothing for elderly women.