• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.947-961
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• 1996

The study is about the grading methods for the apparel CAD systems. So far the shift grading is used mostly in the industry. But the split grading has its advantage such as less data Input which is required for grading. So the research is aimed to prove that the split grading is not accurate than the shift grading and more efficient in speed, and to give the guidance of the split grading so that the split grading method can be applied in future apparel CAD systems more often. The results of the research were: 1. Split yarding produced graded patterns as accurate as shift grading. Yet split grading was more efficient and convenient because it required less data input than shift grading. 2. The 10 grading charts were grouped into 3 groups by the bust girth intervals, 3 cm grading, 4 cm grading and 5cm grading. 3. The grading areas were varied depending on the grament designs, gradre's skill and the grading intervals. 4. Guidance for the split grading was suggested.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.71-77
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• 2007

Shoe's size and shape are determined by the last that takes shape of foot because last is the mold of shoe in development and manufacturing process. Then adaptation between foot and shoe is dependent on the last. In mass shoe production, model size is developed in the first place, other sized lasts are made through the grading process based on model size. The most important factor in grading system is grading deviation that must be same amount induced from foot measuring database. At present, most of the last manufacturing companies in korea using 260mm as a standard foot model size. When length grading deviation is 5mm, the ball girth grading deviation is 3.7mm and the ball width grading deviation is 1.2mm. I verified existing grading system by comparing grading results with foot measuring data. Also, I proposed reasonable grading deviation and application method of grading system. From the analysis of foot measuring database, reasonable grading deviations are 1.22mm in ball width and 0.84mm in ankle height in case of length grading deviation is 5mm. I confirmed that the current grading system is very accurate. When we grade last from 230mm to 290mm by current grading system based on model size 260mm, there is grading error over 1mm in the front outside area of foot. This error level of 1mm is no problem in normal walking shoe's last, but it induces adaptation problems in sports and special purposed shoe's last. Therefore using of three standard model size is recommended in grading men's last for reducing grading deviation error under the level of 1mm. It is specifically described as 235mm in 225-245mm, 260mm in 250-270mm, 285mm in 275-295mm. According to the above recommended grading system, it is enough to measure only three foot sizes in case of foot measuring project for men's last development.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.665-674
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to develop a grading increment at armhole area by apparel CAD(Computer Aided Design) system. In developing a grading increment at armhole area, we analyzed ease values of armhole area in bodice and sleeve by manual drafting patterns of five sizes. We suggested grading increments applied Pythagorean theorem to development the grading increment of the armhole of sleeve. The results and discussions of this study were as follows: 1. In drafting each size, the ease values were not identical. It was difficult to draft perfectly the same armhole line shape between sizes. 2. According to our developed grading increments applied Pythagorean theorem, the ease values were identical between sizes and difference of the armhole length between sizes was also identical. 3. The grading formulas were made out for apparel CAD system. Once grading increment or formula is set in the computer, it can be easily altered to various clothing items at any time. The efficiency of grading work will be also improved and grading time will be reduced.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.571-578
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• 2009

This study was to apply the measurement variations of each region of the body to the basic bodice pattern grading and to provide the clothing pattern fit for the human body. Grading variation used in the apparel industry was researched and new grading variation was proposed by analyzing the statistical data of body measurements. The statistical variation in body measurements was applied to set the optimum grading region and variation. Five sizes were used by split grading method and drawn with Bust Circumference and waist length based on the middle size. Differences between the grading pattern and the drawing pattern were analyzed by overlapping them and measuring each region. The measurement variations of drawing patterns between the sizes were very different from those of statistical data. On the other hand, the measurement variations of grading patterns between the sizes and those of statistical data were similar. In summary, the grading pattern by applying the measurement variations to the region of the body was superior to the drawing pattern drawn by the basic measurements for clothing fitness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.934-942
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• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.55-64
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to review the grading practices and size systems of women's apparel industry in Korea and thereby, analyze the grading problems to find their solutions. Compared with other pattern producing processes, the working principles and methods of grading seem to be consistent, repeatable and stable. Therefore, if the grading deviation setting and working method should be standardized and systematized, it is much easier to automate the grading work than other pattern works. Nevertheless, it was found through this study that grading deviation setting or its application depending on body forms or age groups is not systematic. Moreover, since size identifications, basic sizes or intervals differ among apparel businesses, consumers may be confused in selection of the apparels fitting their body forms. Thus, it is deemed necessary to precisely analyze consumers' body sizes and determine on grading gains or losses in consideration of the body forms.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Building Construction Conference
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• v.y2004m10
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• pp.55-58
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• 2004

This paper investigated the results of quality of concrete using mixed sand with grading adjustment in order to find out the applicability of fine aggregate with bad grading, According to test results, fluidity of concrete with fine level grading river sand was decreased while with coarse level grading crushed sand increased compared with that with medium level grading crushed sand. Use of mixed sand with grading adjustment(MSG) resulted in an improvement in fluidity. Increase in fineness modulus led to an increase in bleeding, For compressive strength, use of MSG increased compressive strength. For drying shrinkage, use of fine level grading river sand resulted in an increasing drying shrinkage due to the larger presence of fine particles, while use of MSG led to a reduction in drying shrinkage

• Journal of rehabilitation welfare engineering & assistive technology
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.179-186
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• 2017

Because facial asymmetry is caused by various causes, the cause analysis is important and quantitative index is needed to the evaluation. In this study, we applied the Nottingham Grading System that was used as a quantitative index to evaluate the facial paralysis by tracking the markers through the image processing and calculating the distance between the markers with images obtained by using the webcam, to evaluate facial asymmetry. The existing Nottingham Grading System has a problem of causing a measurement error in the specific case because the left and right are compared by summing the distance change between the feature points of the face part according to the change of the facial expression. We compared the case of the facial asymmetry and case of normal subject by using the existing Nottingham Grading System and the improved Nottingham grading system. In the existing Nottingham Grading System, case of facial asymmetry and case of facial symmetry were 99.0% and 95.0% respectively in the normal range, but the improved Nottingham Grading System showed facial asymmetry case was 74.0% and facial symmetrical case was 93.2%. The results of experiment show that the improved Nottingham Grading System allows detailed evaluation of each site and improved the problem of the Nottingham Grading System for specific cases.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.141-151
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to suggest the skirt grading rule for different somatotypes. For this study 9 subjects were classified three types according to the shape of front hips such as diamond, standard, heart. Skirts pattern were made by Moonwha grading method for traditional grading rule. For each somatotypes, skirt pattern were graded by new grading rule. The sensory evaluations were practiced for appearance and function. At the result, comparing between the new grading rule and traditional grading rule, new grading rule was fitter than the traditional grading rule. And diamond type was distinctively better than the other somatotype at sensory evaluation appearance. For pattern making of diamond type it had better use the new grading rule that was considered the characteristics of body shape.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.217-226
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to investigate the better grading methods. Iresearch into the aspects of change in each body division, using the body surface shell. And Icalculate the amount of change in each body division, measuring the bodies of 40 females. The result of this study are as follows ; 1. According to the grading sizes, the aspects of change in each body division are irregular. 2. According to the grading sizes, the amounts of change in each body division are different. 3. According to the grading sizes, the amounts of change in each body division are showed in .