• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.79-93
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• 2013

In the Korean literature, records of systematic gold thread manufacturing such as gold foil(金 箔匠), gold foil bonded with fabrics(付金匠), gold foil bonded with paper materials(金箋紙匠), refining gold(鍊金匠), cutting gold(裁金匠), and making gold thread(絲金匠) can be easily found. We can infer from these literatures that the Korean people used to make gold threads. However, is not existent the gold thread making technique. Thus, a research was done using 67 pieces of gold thread artifacts used in textiles craft of Korea, China and Japan. The purpose of this research was to identify the characteristics of the Korean gold thread by studying the artifacts' form classification, gold foil, glue and the base. First, gold thread is divided into flat gold thread and wrapped gold thread. Wrapped gold thread was made in more various methods such as with a paper on the flat gold thread, metal thread and wrapped gold thread with gold foil on top. Compared to the flat gold thread, wrapped gold thread uses a thread that has a thinner and wider. Through this analysis, even making of the base of the gold threads was different according to the type. Secondly, we looked into the characteristics of materials according to form structure of the gold thread. After analysis of experiment results, we could know that to attach Korean gold thread, glue and the mixture of materials such as Red soil(朱土) was also added. The kinds of the base of gold threads were identified as paper, leather and intestines. Among those materials, for paper, Korea's Dakji, China's Sangpiji(桑皮紙) and Jukji(竹紙) and Japan's Anpiji(雁皮紙) seemed to have all been used, so because of the difference among countries, we can prove that Korea has also produced gold thread. By looking at the research, the base of gold threads and making features hugely vary according to the area.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.525-535
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• 2021

This study identified material properties through scientific analysis on Jikgeumdan(satin with gold threads) from Donggungbi-Wonsam and the gold threads used in the embroidery. The Donggungbi-Wonsam's base of gold threads were estimated to have used mulberry fiber's Korean paper(Hanji) because non-wood-based fibers were observed. The X-ray spectrometer showed that the Tongsuseulan of Donggungbi-Wonsam was a flat gold thread of pure gold and Jikgeumdan of flat silver thread of its Saekdong and Hansam. High sulfur levels were detected in the flat silver thread, which appeared to have formed silver sulfide by either manufacturing process using sulfur or conservation environment. he dragon insignia's embroidery is also described as two types twisted gold threads; pure gold and alloying-gold and silver. while dragon insignia's border line is decorated with a twisted gold thread of pure gold. In particular, it was investigated that adhesives such as an animal glue, a protein-based compound by gas chromatography mass spectrometry. Additionally, XRF and Raman spectroscopy analysis on the mixture substances between the metal surface and the base paper of gold threads identified talc and quartz in the gold threads and Seokganju(hematite) in the flat silver threads.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.307-315
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• 2014

The gold textile is Korean traditional weaving technique using the gold thread since 5th century. The making technique of gold thread was written in various references, but it is severed because the gold thread weaving equipment and sumptuous moods were forbidden in the early 18th century. There are some studies of traditional gold thread which are mainly about conservation treatment of cleaning and strength. To restore traditional gold thread, investigation of material and manufacturing technique is vitally required. The gold threads are composed of gold leaf, adhesive and base sheet. Gold leaf and base sheet are available for investigation because they are exposed to the surface, whereas adhesive is not easy to investigate because it is not exposed to the surface. In this study, samples are made of pure and impure gold, animal glue and lacquer, and various types of Hanji based on domestic and foreign references to compare materials for gold threads. As a result of morphological character and stability evaluation, the optimum materials for the restoration of gold threads are pure gold, animal glue and Dochimji(smoothing paper by beating). This study is expected to be basic data for manufacturing gold threads techniques and modernization of traditional gold threads hereafter research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.764-771
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• 2013

The metal component of Chinese and Korean traditional gold thread was analyzed nondestructively using P-XRF and classified morphologically. In the nondestructive analysis of 22 Chinese and Korean artifacts, there were 10 gold threads made up of Au in China and 7 in Korea; in addition, there were 4 silver threads made up of Ag in Korea and 1 copper thread made up of Cu in China. In the morphological classification, 7 gilt paper strips were confirmed in China and Korea and 4 wrapped threads were identified in China and Korea. Zn, Sn and Fe (minor components of the threads) were detected. These components were assumed to be transferred from the metal found in burial goods.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.43-49
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• 2016

Gold threads mean thread made by metal, it is composed various material to gold leaf, adhesive and media. The making technique and using materials of Gold threads are different from region, it can be used to distinguish country of origin. So this study finds characteristics and making techniques for flat gold threads of relics. Standard samples are made of animal glue, lacquer, red lacquer and etc. This materials are based on the scientific investigation of cultural gold threads properties. Then traditional techniques were estimated by comparison and analysis of actual cultural properties and standard samples. As a result of investigating cultural properties, it is similar to the standard sample which are mixed with red soil additives. After analysis of SEM-EDS, it is detected to Al, Si, Fe. So it is to the conclusion that traditional gold thread is made of adhesive mixed with red soil to improve gold color better. And this ways are similar with china that uses animal glue and red soil to adhesive and different from japan that uses lacquer to adhesive. Through this study, it will be used to data and reference for reappearance and making techniques of traditional gold threads.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.113-128
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• 2013

Those records indicate that Jik-geum Hyoong-bae fabric was imported from China and its period was during the fourteen and fifteen century. Gold threads used in three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae artifacts were all wrapped gold thread and gold thread of Danryeong from Young-dukdong, Yong-in, did not have a base, but instead the gold foil itself was attached to the silk cord. Such form of artifact had never been discovered before in Korea. Wrapped gold thread of Seoknamdong's basis was presumably bamboo paper. Three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae have the same weave structure. The ground is woven in a warp-faced 5-end satin weave. The pattern is brocaded with supplementary gold wefts. Supplementary gold wefts are composed of 1/4 twill binding by the odd number pairs of warps within every group of 10 pairs of warps. All of the Jik-geum Hyoong-bae textile were designed and weaved according to the overlapped collared costume's structure. This is also known as 'Jik-seong-pil-ryo'. One symmetric collared jacket excavated in Seok-namdong, Incheon, only has the right half of Hyoong-bae in the front. This is because symmetric collared jacket was made from overlapped collared costume. Tiger and peacock are the main patterns of Jik-geum Hyoong-bae which have realistic and free screen composition and this shows a huge difference to the later generation's standardized Hyoong-bae pattern.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.144-153
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• 2021

Gwanghwadang-Wonsam was designated as National Folklore Cultural Heritage No. 52 in 1979, it is in good condition. However, a problem is the attached a phoenix insignia badge that did not exist when it was designated recently. As it became known as the only purple Wonsam artifact with "phoenix insignia", raising the need for its conservation. In this regard, scientific analysis was required to correct misinformation about designated cultural assets and restore the original designated state by analyzing the history of the Gwanghwadang-Wonsam, other relics of the phoenix insignia and its making design patterns. An X-ray fluorescence analysis was used to confirm that the Phoenix insignia's metal threads were titanium-plated silver. Phoenix insignia using titanium-plated gold thread was not identified in Gwanghwadang-Wonsam photographs in 1986, and the TiN-type membrane plating method was used in various industries in the 1990s, which can be estimated to be attached in the early and mid-1990s. Especially, the scientific analysis results from the X-ray fluorescence analysis in this study provide key evidence for conservation processing. This study demonstrates the importance of investigating relics and similar artifacts in the conservation process of inherited relics and as a precedent for restoration that corrects misinformation about designated cultural properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.5-16
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• 2000

This study attempts to examine compound weave among silk fabrics of Cho-Sun Dynasty. These silk fabrics have colorful patterns. They can be classified into two types by their texture structure one is called polychrome woven silk of which structure is plain or twill fabric : another is called satan damask of which structure is stain fabric. Their texture structure consist of warp and weft. In addition. there are other types of warp and weft for pattern structure ; various twill structures were used for patterns. A variety of colorful threads, including gold and silver ones. are used fur patterns in them. The brocaded-type fabric was primarily developed during Won Era of China. It was most developed in Ko-Rye Kingdom. During that era flat strip was used the most but its length was usually not long enough to finish one pattern. However, wrapped thread was increasingly used during the middle and later period of Cho-Sun Dynasty due to the development of weaving technology for gold thread. The brocaded-type fabric was produced in Korea and it was also Imported from China according to some record. There are some domestic empirical documents that show the names of imported Satin Samite, Brocaded satin and these are good evidence to prove the nationwide use of the cloth during Cho-Sun Dynasty. The density ratio of warp and weft is almost same except Samite in the third and Satin with flower motif in the second period is most density among them. C·F of Brocaded satin with Mang motif in the third period values the highest price. Brocaded satin, used with both gold and silver threads, is thickest.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1315-1324
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• 2009

This study is on the consolidation process of the conservation process of fabric with golden thread found in relics. Gold film was glued to pieces of Korean paper and satin using hide glue, which is a natural adhesive and resin Paraloid B-72, which is a liquid type adhesive. This study examines the types and concentration of the adhesives that are appropriate for consolidating gold film on fabric. The advantage of hide glue is that it is harmless to humans and has a high stability. This glue is also believed to be the closest to the adhesive that was used when the relic was originally made. Its weakness is that it is stiff and weaker than chemical glues, but after being washed with water the adhesion level increases. Therefore, hide glue is appropriate in the following instances: a) when washing after consolidation b) when the substrate of gold threads are significantly damaged, and c) when treating greater sized relics that take a longer time to work on. However, Paraloid B-72 has a better adhesion and flexibility than hide glue, but tends to spread out into a greater area, and the area where it is applied tends to absorb less water than before the application. In addition, it is noxious and can be harmful in long-term exposure. Therefore, Paraloid-72 is appropriate in the following instances: a) when consolidating the fabric after washing, and b) when working on smaller relics and consolidating smaller parts of a relic. The necessary concentration levels for consolidants for gold film are 30% for liquid type hide glue and at least 10% for Paraloid B-72 in order for the gold film to stay intact on the fabric during washing, consolidation, exhibition, and conservation.

• Archives of Plastic Surgery
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.42-45
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• 2012

Background : Conservative techniques designed to block or delay the aging process have been utilized in various ways for many years. However, their effects can be relatively minimal and short-term in most cases compared to surgery. The objective of this study was to evaluate the efficacy and safety of gold thread implantation for the treatment of periorbital wrinkles. Methods : A total of 78 consecutive patients who showed mild to severe periorbital wrinkles were deemed appropriate candidates, including 69 women and 9 men ranging from 31 to 59 years (mean, 47 years). Six gold threads about 4 cm in length were inserted subdermally in each patient at intervals of about 0.5 cm. Follow-up assessments were performed 1, 4, and 12 weeks after the procedure. The efficacy was rated by the physician using the Wrinkle Severity Rating Scale and patients who made global assessments of changes in periorbital wrinkles using the Visual Analog Scale. Adverse events were monitored throughout the course of the study. Results : The patients showed significant improvements after the procedure. There were minor complications such as foreign body sensation in the eye (2.63%) and eye pain (1.32%) that improved spontaneously without any specific treatments. Conclusions : Subdermal implantation of gold thread improves the appearance of periorbital wrinkles and does not appear to have serious side effects. Insertion of gold thread may be an effective and safe method for facial rejuvenation.